Entries By steve gately
June 3, 2017
Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
June 3, 2017
Waking early yet again, our team of intrepid mountaineers had a quick breakfast and fired downhill to our cache at 10,000 ft. Once packs and sleds were sufficiently filled we returned back to camp as the rest of the 11,000' Camp inhabitants were poking their heads out of tents. After a big lunch of rosti and stories, the team reviewed some climbing techniques and packed up for our next carry towards
14,000' Camp. If the weather cooperates we will bump supplies uphill tomorrow to set ourselves up to move locations. We have heard that 14,200 feet above the sea is a nice neighborhood and we aim to get in while prices are still reasonable. Location, location, location as they say.
The team is still doing great and we are ready for the next step.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 3, 2017
Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
June 2, 2017
Our team sends their greetings from
11 Camp! Everyone did quite well on the move here and we enjoyed another perfect weather day on our way up. We left early to beat the heat and it paid off. Once at camp we enjoyed some mellow camp construction and rest whilst our comrades made their way down from 17 Camp. It was great to see some triumphant souls and friendly (if scraggly) faces. Tomorrow we hope to back carry and claim our checked baggage and spend the rest of the day training and resting before working our way any higher. All subject to our beloved Mom Nature of course.
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 2, 2017
Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
June 1, 2017
Greetings from our second night at the base of
Ski Hill/Camp 1!
Today we set off early and enjoyed perfect walking temps as we carried our checked baggage to 10,000 feet and cached a sizable load to make tomorrow's move more civilized. If the forecast verifies, we will try to move uphill in the early morning and make our way to 11 Camp.
The team is doing great and perfect weather has welcomed us into the Alaska Range. Big Ups to the first two RMI teams as they get rewarded for their patience and perseverance- Bravo!
We hope to check in from 11,200 feet above the sea tomorrow night!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
On The Map
June 1, 2017
Posted by: Jake Beren, Steve Gately, Megan Budge
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
May 31, 2017
The team woke up this morning, ate one last home cooked breakfast and gathered at the hanger where our gear was waiting at K2 Aviation. The bad weather of the last few days cleared up over night and we anticipated being able to fly into the range early this morning. We all spent a few moments finalizing our backpacks and duffels when K2 gave us the thumbs up. We quickly loaded up two aircraft with everything we'll need for the next three weeks and before we knew it we were in world of flowing ice, snow and rock.
A 45 minute plane ride takes you from the comforts of town and puts you rather abruptly in a harsh environment and every year I'm always amazed at how I never quite get used to how quickly life changes in Talkeetna. For many decades starting in the early 1900's expeditions would start there journey with a week or more of toiling through the Alaskan bush just to reach where we have flown in under an hour. I'll take the plane please!
An hour spent repacking and gearing up had us walking down the
Southeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier by noon. The skies were blue, the temps pleasant and the views massive. Only once in the last 4 years have I had the pleasure of walking up the Kahiltna Glacier with a view and the team did great readjusting to life in the range. Five hours of hard work brought us to our first camp at the base of Ski Hill at 7,800ft. We spent the afternoon setting up our camp. The team is now tucked in for the night getting some well earned rest. Tomorrow we will cache some gear at 10,000ft then return back to 7,800 to sleep. Forecast is calling for more good weather tomorrow and the team is excited to explore new terrain!
Thanks for following along everyone.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
May 30, 2017
After a full day packing up, weighing our gear and some serious duffel shuffling we are all set to jet into the
Alaska Range tomorrow! Weather permitting we should head in mid morning and take stock of a most beautiful set of mountains. Our fingers are crossed for a grand adventure and we will keep you all posted on our journey. Take care everyone!
RMI Guide Jake Beren
May 25, 2017
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir May 21 - 26, 2017 led by
RMI Guides Dave Hahn and Steve Gately have spent the week training at Camp Muir. Today they made an alpine start for their summit attempt. The team reached the summit around 8 am and was able to enjoy the views. Dave Hahn reported a light cloud cap on the summit and otherwise good conditions. The team will return to Camp Muir today for their final night on the mountain. They will complete their program tomorrow and wrap up with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's team!
Well, our luck had to run out eventually. We've had a good run so far this trip, but
Chimborazo proved to be our match. Our teams turned this morning just under 19,000' due to a variety of compounding issues, but the climb still provided us with over six hours of engaging terrain, from challenging rock steps to steep and firm snow slopes. Although we would have all loved to have reached the top, everyone agrees we made the right decision to turn around early and are all glad to be back down safely, celebrating the successful conclusion of our seminar down south.
From a guide's perspective, not summiting this morning provided us all with one last valuable lesson: mountaineering isn't always about standing on top. So much of climbing is learning to recognize when a summit just isn't in the cards and being able to make the conservative call. Chimborazo will be here for a while. We didn't make it this time, but I like to think of that as an open invitation to return again some day down the road.
Tomorrow morning we will return to Quito, say our final goodbyes, and fly home to our families. It has been an incredible two weeks, and I've enjoyed getting to know this wonderful group of people. Pretty soon, you'll be able to hear all the stories that never made it to the blog directly from your loved ones.
It's been a great adventure!
Signing off one last time,
RMI Guide Nick Hunt
February 3, 2017
Posted by: Nick Hunt, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 15,000'
After a late dinner last night the team enjoyed a good nights rest at our hotel, La Cienega. Our agenda for today was quite simple, gorge ourselves on burrito's and drive to our
climbing hut on Chimborazo.
After a simple breakfast of sliced fruit and eggs we hit the road at 10:30AM. We made a short stop at a grocery store to buy water and last minute items before heading to El Rey del Burrito and the biggest challenge of our day, surviving lunch. The small restaurant, located in the bustling city of Ambato is home to the infamous 50cm burrito. That is nearly two feet of tortilla, meat and cheese! Fortunate for us, Jason, was willing and turns out quite up to the challenge, finishing the burrito as if were an afternoon snack! The rest of us were content with spectating. With full bellies we loaded back onto our trusty tour bus and our driver Victor speed off to Chimborazo.
We are all now safely nestled in at 15,000' on the side of the tallest peak in Ecuador. We will get another well needed full nights rest before moving to our high camp tomorrow in preparation for our summit attempt. From everybody on the team, thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
February 2, 2017
Posted by: Nick Hunt, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 18,891'
Another great day in the mountains and another summit! Today the Ecuador Skills Seminar team stood on
top of Antisana, the second large objective for this trip.
Although the weather was windy and wet when we woke up this morning, we waited it out and were able to leave in decent conditions. The climbing on Antisana is quite a bit more technical than our previous peak of Cayambe, but all the training over the last few days paid off. Everyone was able to tackle the route finding, steep climbing, and exposure in good style.
We did end up climbing in to a cap on the summit, however, and everyone was covered in rime ice by the time we reached the top. Most folks had all their layers on to combat the chilly wind, but it was still fun for everyone!
Twelve hours after leaving camp we returned, and immediately got around to packing up our things and tearing down all of the tents. We traveled to a beautiful hacienda for the evening and are all looking forward to sleeping in tomorrow.
Sorry for the short post, but even the guides get tired on long climbs like today!
We'll be moving to Chimborazo Base Camp tomorrow to prepare for our third and final peak of the trip.
Until then,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt and Steve Gately and the rest of the Ecuador team!
February 1, 2017
Posted by: Nick Hunt, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 13,400'
Training day on Antisana. After a good dinner last night and plenty of rest, the team was up and in good spirits this morning. After a relaxing breakfast with coffee, hot cereal, and chill out music, we geared up and headed uphill to the training site for the day.
The lower flanks of Antisana's glaciers are a rolling field of hard blue ice, making an excellent site to practice some of the more advanced mountaineering skills. We covered steep fixed line travel with ascenders, rappelling, and vertical ice climbing. Everyone had a good time today!
We wrapped the day up in the early afternoon, getting back to our base camp just after 1pm. This gave us plenty of time to crush some quesadillas for lunch and prepare for our summit attempt tonight.
We are going to have an early night tonight, and go for the top of Antisana this evening. Wish us luck!
We'll check in tomorrow when we're back down.
Until then,
RMI Guides Nick Hunt,
Steve Gately, and the rest of the Ecuador team
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Got your satellite text. Glad to hear you are doing well. Thinking of you and your team a lot. Good luck.
Posted by: Jo on 6/6/2017 at 8:57 am
Burt’s Bees beard looking good Big Stephen! Good luck- hope they have some juicy chicken to keep your energy up.
Posted by: Jake on 6/5/2017 at 1:55 pm
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