Valdez, Alaska, is an incredible place to be in April. Long hours of daylight make for excellent opportunities to log massive amounts of vertical in the backcountry. When the skiing is good on Thompson Pass, there is no shortage of dramatic peaks and aesthetic lines.
Taking my AMGA Ski Mountaineering Guides Exam there this spring, I spent a majority of April in the area training with friends and fellow guides becoming familiar with the Alaskan terrain and snowpack.
The days leading up to the exam were filled with anxiety and endless “what-if’s” and “well-maybe’s.” Soon the other exam candidates and I found ourselves in the thick of eight days of late-into-the-night tour planning, strategizing, and pouring over weather forecasts, raw remote data, weather models, avalanche hazard forecasts, and various other slightly cloudy crystal balls. The general idea being to sort through all the data until you find a summary you like. Forecasting for an area as large as Alaska is quite difficult and many times during the week we were reminded that the forecasts were never quite wrong, but that the timing of the forecasts were usually off.
Conditions varied from thigh-deep powder in the east facing couloirs of the Iguana Backs zone, to some of the stiffest, carvable wind-board I’ve ever skied on the Berlin Wall and Odyssey.
The last few days of the exam we had great weather and flyable conditions. We employed the mechanical advantage of Valdez Heli-Skiing to get a ride into the Hoodoo glacier area for an overnight ski tour. We started with a descent of Acapulco Peak in the sunshine and finished with a long ski out of the Worthington Glacier in whiteout conditions.
Going through the process of being examined by your peers, learning from other exam candidates, and dealing with the stress of guiding new terrain and on-the-fly tour planning has been invaluable in helping me excel in all other facets of my guiding and personal endeavors.
Passing the exam and becoming one of only a handful of certified women in the U.S. is a huge honor and I am proud to represent RMI Expeditions.
- RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall
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Posted by: brahim ait on 9/22/2017 at 11:56 am
Congrats to you Solveig on completing the prestegious AMGA Ski Guide Certification and adding another line on your already impressive reseme. Reading about your latest adventure brought back fond memories of my climb with you, Josh and Lance on Rainier last August 22-25. Although I did not summit, I really enjoyed the adventure and the fellowship of our Climbing Team. I hope to one day sign up for an Everest Basecamp Trec . . . Maybe your Husband would be the Guide! Be safe, enjoy the adventure and keep living the dream. Doug Kennedy - The Songee Guy - a thin red cord binds us together as a Climbing Team !!!
Our Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The cloud covering made for a beautiful sunrise today. The teams have started their descent and are en route back to Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Zeb Blais and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Emmons team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Route. The team will descend the route back to Camp Schurman, spend another day training and will return to Rainier Basecamp tomorrow.
Congratulations to today's teams.
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported warm temperatures with winds at about 15 mph. They spent over an hour on the summit enjoying the views before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir.
After a week of Denali Prep training, Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning with 100% of their team. They have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air is ascending to Camp Muir today with Win Whittaker as their lead guide. He sent us a photo of the team's climbing school from yesterday. What beautiful weather the teams have been climbing in!
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Billy Nugent and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier just after 7 am today.
The teams reported clear skies, calm winds and pleasant temperatures. They spent over an hour on the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. The teams will take a short break at Camp Muir to rest and repack before continuing down to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climbers!
The Four and Five Day Mt. Rainier Summit Climbs led by Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall, respectively, reached the summit this morning. Eric reported beautiful weather, no wind and the cloud deck below Paradise. The teams ventured to Columbia Crest and enjoyed the summit views before they began their descent at 8 a.m.
RMI Guides Eric Frank and Solveig Waterfall
The Five Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Andres Marin reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The Four Day Summit Climb Team led by RMI Guide Win Whittaker had a great climb but were unable to reach the summit. The teams reported clear skies, some light winds, and pleasant temperatures.The teams are on their way to Camp Muir and will be back at Rainier Basecamp to celebrate this afternoon.
After a successful summit yesterday and a week of training the Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons will be returning to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the Summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear weather with a cap on the summit, and the new route via Camp Comfort great to climb. The teams spent some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
The Four Day Summit Climb led by Casey Grom and the Five Day Summit Climb led by Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams reported windy conditions up top. Both teams will descend to Camp Muir, pack up and then continue to Paradise.
We look forwrd to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb teams!
Sunday, May 26, 2013
Mike Walter & crew rolled into 11,200' Camp tonight at dinner time looking surprisingly good for just having summited and descending from 17,200' today. They're planning on getting an alpine start tonight in order to descend the lower Kahiltna Glacier while it's frozen.
They'll be drinking beers and eating steak soon.
Our hats are off to the entire team. Congratulations all!
RMI Guide Brent Okita
Saturday, May 25, 2013:
Hi All!
Our team is safely back at high camp after a successful summit bid today! Our entire team made it to the top and we enjoyed near perfect weather and route conditions! We left camp at 9:30 this morning and were standing on the roof of North America at 4:45 pm. After taking photos, exchanging high fives and hugs, and enjoying amazing views we descended towards camp in the evening glow of Alaska sunshine and with the anticipation of hot tea and a warm dinner.
We are all excited to begin our decent tomorrow and look forward to talking to all our friends and family in a few days!
Cheers!
RMI Guides Solveig, Mike, Ben, and the McKinley Team
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Posted by: brahim ait on 9/22/2017 at 11:56 am
Congrats to you Solveig on completing the prestegious AMGA Ski Guide Certification and adding another line on your already impressive reseme. Reading about your latest adventure brought back fond memories of my climb with you, Josh and Lance on Rainier last August 22-25. Although I did not summit, I really enjoyed the adventure and the fellowship of our Climbing Team. I hope to one day sign up for an Everest Basecamp Trec . . . Maybe your Husband would be the Guide! Be safe, enjoy the adventure and keep living the dream. Doug Kennedy - The Songee Guy - a thin red cord binds us together as a Climbing Team !!!
Posted by: Doug Kennedy on 1/23/2014 at 4:20 am
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