Entries By sam marjerison
June 28, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,200'
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It was a windy night at high camp, followed by a windy day. More importantly, it was still too windy up on Denali's South Peak for us to make an attempt. Low level clouds have come in, obscuring our views of many of the surrounding mountains. We still have hope for improved conditions tomorrow, but that will likely be our last shot at the top. Given all that, the team has stayed upbeat and excited for a chance to climb.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
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June 27, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Wednesday, June 27, 2024 - 9:58 pm PT
Still in a holding pattern at 17,000 ft. There were obvious strong winds blowing on our climbing route first thing today. We watched and waited for calming. It did die down a little at midday -too late for climbing- but then the winds roared back to life in the afternoon. We napped, read and generally passed the time. We can walk about a hundred feet from camp to a tremendous view of half of Alaska. The team is hanging in and hoping for a shot.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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fingers crossed for better weather soon!!
Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/28/2024 at 3:01 am
Keeping good thoughts going the weather is in your favor to summit. Hi Caryn, Love Mom!
Posted by: Divy Karolyi on 6/27/2024 at 3:43 pm
June 26, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
Tuesday, June 25, 2024 - 9:33 pm PT
A little bit of a tough one for us. We geared up and started climbing the "autobahn" toward Denali Pass. The team was handling the terrain well but a cold wind got going and our sense was that it was strengthening. We turned at 17,800ft and the wind died before we'd reached camp. It likely would have worked for climbing after all. We turned the day into a rest/acclimatization day and we'll give the summit another try tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Go team! I am praying the winds calm down for another attempt - you guys got this! Dad, you’re a beast and I can’t wait to hear all the stories. Love you so much! - Rach
Posted by: Rachel Shoppy on 6/27/2024 at 10:57 am
You guys will summit tomorrow for sure! Praying for great weather! Good luck!
Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/26/2024 at 9:45 pm
June 25, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 17,000'
17,200 ft sure feels good! We pulled out of 14,000' at 10 AM. It snowed a few inches in the night but by morning the clouds were dropping down. We had a clear shot of the West Buttress and the South Summit. Our packs were a good deal heavier than when we carried. Today was tough climbing but the entire team did quite well. We reached our new home in 6.5 hours and set to building camp. Such work is tough enough, but it was double tough in the thin air. Eventually we had tents to take shelter in snd and a hot dinner out on the patio. We talked over the challenges we are likely to face going for the top tomorrow. It was a treat to greet Dominic Cifelli's triumphant team as they rolled back into camp -about when we were buttoning things up for the evening. Fingers crossed for one more perfect day.
Best,
RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam and Nick
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The weather forecast looks good if I’m reading it right out of Fairbanks. If that holds you’ll smoke it. Got get ‘em safe and sound.
Posted by: Gregory Poulos on 6/26/2024 at 3:53 am
You’re almost there! Great job Jon and team!! We at work are thinking of you and cheering you on! Hoping for great weather and beautiful views tomorrow! Onward and upward!!!
Posted by: Sunita Bendale on 6/25/2024 at 8:04 pm
June 24, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Sunday, June 23, 2024 - 9:33 pm PT
There seemed to be general agreement that last night's sleep was a good one. That could mean that we are getting acclimatized to 14,000'. But it could also mean we were justifiably tired after yesterday's carry. Today was easy, in any case. We ate, took naps and sorted gear for the big move up tomorrow. It was calm and sunny through the morning, but the afternoon clouded up and light snow started falling. It still doesn't count as a storm though.
We just need a couple more good days.
Best Regards,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison & Nick Sinipius
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Congratulations on your success so far. Your hard work has paid off. Keep your eye on the prize. Good luck tomorrow.
Julie and Mike
Posted by: Julie Baron on 6/25/2024 at 7:53 am
This is awesome news. Go team! Praying for good weather, strength, and a successful summit. Love you so much dad! - Rach
Posted by: Rachel Shoppy on 6/25/2024 at 7:31 am
June 23, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Saturday, June 22, 2024 - 10:23 PM PT
Best day of the trip (so far)! Certainly as far as weather goes, this was a sweet day clear and cloudless at the start, calm and sunny throughout. But also, as far as climbing goes, this was the best. We left 14K at 9:30 AM, which was plenty cool as we were still in shadow. We made steady progress up the steep glacial slopes -breaking a few people's personal altitude records in the process. And then we tackled the steeper ice of the fixed rope section. Topping out the ropes at 16,200 ft in perfect weather (basically we had light sweaters on) it was hard to resist forging on. We went another 90 minutes up the crest of the spectacular West Buttress, passing Washburn's Thumb, we reached 16,800 ft. There we dug a raven-proof cache and left our supplies. Our descent was careful but steady. We reached our 14K camp at 6:10 PM. We got in a good dinner before the sun went behind the mountain at 9 pm. Tomorrow we'll rest.
Best,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Great progress and keep it up Chris! Stephan
Posted by: Stephan on 6/24/2024 at 8:33 am
You all made it ! wow wow wow! a special shout out to my dear friend Chris Brockmeyer ! can’t wait to see you on the other side ! gwen
Posted by: gwen lourie on 6/24/2024 at 6:53 am
June 22, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
First thing this morning it looked a little windy up on the West Buttress. That was enough to switch our program to a rest day at 14,000. Of course, the wind died down and neighboring teams had no trouble climbing today, but we were happy to rest. Clouds came and went during the day and there were a few snowflakes but overall, the good weather is sticking with us.
Tomorrow will work just fine for that carry.
Best Regards,
The RMI Guides & Team
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Katie - we had a nice beach volleyball day with Emily visiting and the rest of the sandy llamas crew. A rest day, but a different kind of rest day. Good luck on the carry tomorrow!
Posted by: minwoo on 6/22/2024 at 8:23 pm
Rest is not idleness! Go team!!!!
Posted by: James Jackson Leach on 6/22/2024 at 2:49 pm
June 21, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
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An easy-ish day at 14K. The weather stayed decent, a little cloudier, some snowflakes, but not really a concern. We ate a slow breakfast and then geared up. As expected, it was just 20 minutes descent to reach our cache and then an hour long slog to get it back up to camp. We napped through the afternoon and tried to catch up on hydration. Before dinner we did a short review of the techniques we'll use on the "fixed rope" section that gets us onto the West Buttress. If all goes well, we will carry up to about 16,200 ft tomorrow.
It was good to see Hanna Smith's RMI team come into camp this afternoon. They hit the top yesterday evening. We patted them on their backs and pumped them for info and tips on the route.
Best Regards,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius & Team
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Go Team! Sending lots of love and support to Tony and company as you work through this tough stuff at high elevation. You’ve got this!! See you soon to celebrate in Snowmass. xoxo, Jet
Posted by: Jet on 6/21/2024 at 4:17 pm
love the positive spin your guides place on your adventure - sure the reality is a bit more challenging!! however it does keep us less bold ones relieved! Keep up the great attitude and the top is in site!!!! lynn
Posted by: barbara theiss on 6/21/2024 at 2:25 pm
June 20, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 10:19 pm PT
Such a difference to be camped at 14,000' on Denali. Radically different views, of course, but it is also the feeling of finally being on the mountain rather than on the approach. Being above Windy Corner rather than below it. Being higher and colder. It wasn't easy, but we got here in good time today - 5.5 hours. We left 11,000' Camp at 9 AM and pulled up the now familiar hills. It was another good weather day, thankfully, and we could see way down the Alaska Range to Mt Spurr, the active volcano in the Tordrillo mts. We worked for hours to build our new home at 14,000' but finally got to relax in a new dining complex. Tomorrow we'll go back to our cache at 13,600' to bring in the food and fuel and the approach will be finished!
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team
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14k is where life starts getting wonky!! I’d love to see some photos of the home you built there and the dining complex you relaxed in!! Keep up the great progress and fingers crossed for continued great weather!!
Posted by: Seth Cochran on 6/21/2024 at 1:57 am
Hi Tony and team, all here in Ireland following your daily updates. Wishing you fine weather and strength for the coming days. Best wishes Brian and Colette.
Posted by: Brian Cassidy on 6/20/2024 at 5:05 pm
June 19, 2024
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
The cold shadows were still on us when we pulled out of camp at 8:30 this morning. But we were carrying loads up the steep "motorcycle hill" which warmed us. It was a thrill to top motorcycle and get onto "squirrel hill" and to be able to look out at the tundra to the NW. We were excited to get views of the Peters Glacier and up close views of the West Buttress of Denali. There was a cool breeze as we reached the "Polo Field" and so we briefly wondered whether we'd reach our goal. But the temps warmed and the wind dropped and we got around Windy Corner as hoped. It was stunning to come face to face with the South Peak of Denali. We dug a deep cache and buried the supplies and finally just sat enjoying the views for a few minutes. It was a pleasant and "easy" climb back down to camp. We'd managed the round trip in a respectable 6.5 hrs. That left enough of the afternoon for resting in warm tents. We'll hope to move up tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam & Nick
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Way to go Team! Loving these incredible updates. Rest easy and as Jon likes to say, Onward and Upward! The W girls
Posted by: Beth, Sydney & Addie on 6/19/2024 at 6:48 pm
I heard it was a rough day and had to turn back. Job well done to get that far Tony!! I opted for some Double Rye with a friend last night and will do the bourye when you’re down safely! Congrats on what I assume is your altitude record? In TKPhi and Stay safe - Mark
Posted by: Mark Miola on 6/29/2024 at 8:22 am
good luck Katie & team!! Rooting for you!
Posted by: devi mehrotra on 6/28/2024 at 11:01 pm
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