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Entries By sam marjerison


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Fly to Kahiltna Base, Ready to Climb

Thursday, June 15, 2023 - 9:20 pm  PT

We couldn't hang around Talkeetna long enough for breakfast this morning.  Denali was calling and we heeded the call.  We snacked as we were gearing up to fly. The planes took off at 9 AM and at about 9:45 we were in basecamp unloading.  We built camp.  It is pleasantly cool for mid June.  We made it a training day.   We watched airplanes and helicopters come and go as we reviewed glacier travel techniques.  Tomorrow we're going climbing.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Ready and Waiting in Talkeetna

Thursday, June 15, 2023 - 7:38 am PT

Talkeetna was cloudy and sometimes rainy but our team used the day to get all set for a Denali expedition.  We started with a team breakfast meeting and then moved out to the hangar on the Talkeetna airstrip for getting organized.  Guides and climbers set to work organizing both group gear and personal equipment.  Finishing touches were made to the 22 day food supply.  We stood outside for a briefing from National Park Service rangers on safety and environmental procedures. 

We were happy to watch our fellow climbers in Dominic Cifelli’s RMI team load up and take off for Kahiltna Base as the weather improved.  Our day finished with a weigh-in and final division of the supplies into two piles for two airplanes.  We met for dinner in town to relax and talk once more on strategy for the climb. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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“It’s not the size of the dog in the fight, it’s the size of the fight in the dog.” Mark Twain says to go slay this mountain already!

Posted by: Tam on 6/15/2023 at 3:17 pm


Denali Expedition: Hahn & Team Arrive Alaska, Prepare for Adventure

Tuesday, June 13, 2023 - 11:11 pm PT

All present and accounted for in Talkeetna, Alaska.  Most of us came together in the Anchorage airport this afternoon.  Some traveled today, others in the proceeding days. We joined forces for the van ride up to Talkeetna under overcast and sometimes rainy skies.  We busted up the three hour drive with a pause in Wasilla to round out provisions.  All of this got us in to Talkeetna by about 7 PM.  We did an easy evening of pizza downtown and came back for a rest at the Swiss Alaska Inn.  The real business of the expedition starts tomorrow morning. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

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Just keep climbing.

Posted by: Shannon on 6/16/2023 at 10:17 am


Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz Summits!

After a full week of training on the lower slopes of Mt. Rainier the Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz team reached the summit of Mt. Rainier. RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli said the Kautz route was in awesome shape. They left the crater rim around 9:30 am and will return to their camp for a final night on the mountain. The skills acquired will help these climbers pursue more advanced climbs like Denali, Aconcagua, or Mt. Baker North Ridge.

Congratulations team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climbs Reach Summit

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Ben Luedtke led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Dustin reported broken clouds and light to moderate winds as the teams were ascending the Ingraham Direct early this morning.  The teams enjoyed some time in the crater before beginning their descent.  The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a short rest and to pack their gear before descending the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations all!  Excited to follow in your footsteps this weekend!

Posted by: Keith on 5/30/2023 at 4:27 pm

Congratulations to Devin and the team.  Can’t wait to hear about the adventure!

Posted by: Karm on 5/30/2023 at 9:53 am


Mt. Rainier: Wittmier & Seminar Team Reach Summit

RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier and the Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir team put their training to the test and made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Dustin reported calm, light winds and sunny skies as the team was walking out of the crater rim just after 8 am to begin their descent.  The team will return to Camp Muir for their final night on the mountain.  They reached Camp Muir on Monday and have spent the last several days working on alpine mountaineering skills.  The team enjoyed time at Ingraham Flats working on their ice climbing and crevasse rescue skills.  Tomorrow the group will pack up and descend to Paradise, completing their week of training on Mt. Rainier.

Congratulations to the Seminar team!

Wednesday, May 18, 2023 5:38 pm PDT

Hello world! 

It's time for an update from the team up at Camp Muir. The cycle of sun in the morning and clouds / thunderstorms in afternoons haven't impacted our seminar in the slightest. We've been spending the days training and afternoons learning. Today is our last day of training before our summit attempt. We spent the morning ice climbing in a crevasse up at Ingraham flats, the guides even got in on the ice climbing fun! Our afternoon will be spent fine tuning our crevasse rescue skills and then heading to bed early to try to get some shut eye before our alpine start. Check back in tomorrow to hear about our summit attempt!

Cheers,

Dusty, Jack, Sam and The Team

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Mt. Shuksan: Francis & Team Reach Fisher Chimneys Summit

The Fisher Chimneys climb led by RMI Guides Matias Francis and Sam Marjerison had beautiful summit weather yesterday. They reported great route conditions and enjoyed the SE Ridge to the top. The team spent last night on the mountain and will be descending this morning. They expect to be back at the cars in the early afternoon. They will conclude their program with a celebratory meal and wrap up! 

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Mt. Rainier: Teams Turn due to Wind and Precipitation

The Four-Day climb led by Pete Van Deventer and Alex Halliday turned around at 12,300’ this morning. The teams were facing 45 mph gusts as a wet cloud cap descended on them. They reported that the weather at Camp Muir was far more favorable with a light breeze to welcome them.

The teams are on their descent back to Basecamp, with warm showers and good food in their sights.

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Been following the blog all summer, making my own attempt on 8/29.  Curious if that picture is from
Today and where is it on the route? 

Bummer about the wind but congrats on getting that high!

Posted by: Matt Neal on 8/11/2022 at 10:53 am


Mt. Rainier: Walter & Kautz Seminar Reach Point Success

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 22 - 27 led by RMI Guide Mike Walter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reached the crater rim at 6 am and tagged Point Success.  They will return to their high camp for their final night on the mountain and descend tomorrow to the trailhead.

Nice work team!

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Kautz Seminar: Weather deters climb from Summit, Turn at 12,200’

RMI Guide Alex Halliday called from Cmap this afternoon. The team turned at 12,200', at the top of the Ice Chute, due to deteriorating weather. He reported cloudy condition, some snow but an overall nice day of climbing. Alex mentioned that despite the team turning, that everyone was stoked after their ascent of the Ice Chute.

Their plan is to walk back to Paradise tomorrow and retun to Basecamp in the early afternoon.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Lia & Chris:  Congratulations on making the climb.  Can’t wait to hear from both you about the adventure!  Very proud of both of you

Posted by: Marcella and Bill on 7/6/2022 at 7:34 am

To the most badass climbers Lia and Chris, we are so proud of you! At 12200 ft, we’re sure there was plenty cu-see cu-see cu-see. Can’t wait to hear all about your incredible adventure

Posted by: Ana & Yukichi on 7/5/2022 at 11:34 pm

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