Entries By sam hoffman

Wednesday, June 19, 2024 - 10:19 pm PT

Such a difference to be camped at 14,000' on Denali.  Radically different views, of course, but it is also the feeling of finally being on the mountain rather than on the approach. Being above Windy Corner rather than below it. Being higher and colder. It wasn't easy, but we got here in good time today - 5.5 hours. We left 11,000' Camp at 9 AM and pulled up the now familiar hills. It was another good weather day, thankfully, and we could see way down the Alaska Range to Mt Spurr, the active volcano in the Tordrillo mts. We worked for hours to build our new home at 14,000' but finally got to relax in a new dining complex. Tomorrow we'll go back to our cache at 13,600' to bring in the food and fuel and the approach will be finished! 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

The cold shadows were still on us when we pulled out of camp at 8:30 this morning. But we were carrying loads up the steep "motorcycle hill" which warmed us. It was a thrill to top motorcycle and get onto "squirrel hill" and to be able to look out at the tundra to the NW. We were excited to get views of the Peters Glacier and up close views of the West Buttress of Denali. There was a cool breeze as we reached the "Polo Field" and so we briefly wondered whether we'd reach our goal. But the temps warmed and the wind dropped and we got around Windy Corner as hoped. It was stunning to come face to face with the South Peak of Denali. We dug a deep cache and buried the supplies and finally just sat enjoying the views for a few minutes. It was a pleasant and "easy" climb back down to camp. We'd managed the round trip in a respectable 6.5 hrs. That left enough of the afternoon for resting in warm tents. We'll hope to move up tomorrow.

Best Regards, 

RMI Guides Dave, Sam, Sam & Nick

Monday, June 17, 2024 - 10:25 pm PT

We are starting to feel quite lucky after another calm, beautiful day. We got up at a leisurely 6:30 AM and had a breakfast of bagels and bacon. By 9 AM we were walking downhill to 10,000 ft to pick up our cached supplies.  Down took 20 min, up then took about 90 min, including a nice rest break. It was just starting to get good and hot when we got back and dove into our tents for shelter from the sun. We didn't come out again until 5:30 PM when we suited up for a short review of the climbing techniques we plan to employ tomorrow. The goal would be to carry a load up and around "Windy Corner" using crampons and ice axes (rather than the snowshoes and ski poles we've been using). The team is excited to see some new terrain.

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

We're at 11,000 ft and loving it.  The team did strong work this morning getting out of camp by 5 AM and onto the now familiar route.  Packs were heavy but our sleds were lighter than yesterday. We made great time and everyone seemed in high spirits to be leaving the Kahiltna and getting to where we could see out.  The great weather continued. We were in bright sunshine for building our new camp at the foot of "Motorcycle Hill".   Tomorrow we'll drop down to retrieve our cache at 10,000, which shouldn't take too long.  Then we'll prep for going higher. 

Best Regard, 

RMI Guides Dave, Sam H, Sam M, Nick

Saturday, June 15, 2024 - 10:02 pm PT

Another beautiful day on Denali, which started at 2:30 AM for our team. We were snowshoed up and moving uphill by 5 AM. Conditions were excellent for travel. The surface was frozen up just right and the day was cool enough to keep us from sweating as we got on "Ski Hill".  We moved well for four hours to reach 10,000' There at the head of the 49 mile Kahiltna Glacier, we dug a cache and buried our supplies to prevent attack by ravens. It took just under two hours to get back down to camp, by which time we were ready to get in the tents and out of the hot sun. We napped away the afternoon and rehydrated. Tomorrow we'll climb to 11,000' Camp.

Best Regards,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison and Nick Sinapius

The skies were clear early this morning, and so it was the perfect time to leave basecamp as the snow surface was nicely frozen and travel was "easy". We were roped up and on our way by 4 AM, watching the sunlight play on the upper slopes of Mts Foraker and Hunter.  Glacier conditions were excellent. There were few open crevasses, and the route was fairly direct.  We pulled into our destination -the base of "ski hill" - in just four and a half hours. 

Camp then went up relatively quickly and we got in out of the intense midday sun for some quality naps.  A breeze came up in the evening, but by then we'd built a dining tent and were able to enjoy dinner in peace. 

We intend to make a carry tomorrow, to 10,000 ft if possible. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guides Dave Hahn, Sam Hoffman, Sam Marjerison, Nick Sinapius

Thursday June 13, 2024, 10:55pm PDT

And just like that, we are in a new world... a planet of ice and snow and rock and gigantic mountains.  We flew on just before midday.  It had been a little manky before that, with low cloud in both Talkeetna and Kahiltna Base camp, so we got to eat a last big breakfast in town as we waited for improvements.  It was a thrill to get some views of Denali, way up above the remaining clouds, as we flew in, and a thrill to step out of the planes at basecamp. 

We built camp, trained and prepared for departure in the intense high-altitude sunshine. We talked over what to expect and how to deal with expected challenges. We made it to bed by 9 PM. Our intention is to get up in the middle of the night to travel in the early morning shadows. 

Best Regards, 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team 

Dave Hahn & Team are Flying onto the Kahiltna Glacier! Follow along with us as they begin their climb of Denali.

Wednesday June 12, 2024 11:29pm PDT

A big day in Talkeetna.  It was cloudy and rainy, but that didn’t prevent us from starting out with a breakfast meeting at the Swiss Alaska Inn, introducing the team and discussing expectations and strategies for the climb.  We carried on by regrouping over at the airplane hangar to sort equipment and get packed.  We broke things up with an excellent briefing from the National Park Service.  Denali climbing ranger, Alan Davis spoke to us about current conditions and the need to prioritize safety on the mountain.  K2 Aviation - our flight service- then let us know what to expect in regards to getting on and off the mountain via ski plane in variable weather conditions.  We then buckled down and put in a few serious hours getting organized for the climb.  This was capped off with a formal weigh-in, a prelude to loading up the airplanes -which we hope will take place tomorrow morning.  The team then relaxed at Mile High Pizza Pie in the heart of Talkeetna.  Enjoying dinner and the drizzle from low clouds.  We are set and excited to get on the mountain. 
 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Tuesday, June 11, 2024 - 10:17 pm PT

Our climbing team came together today.  After years of planning and anticipation and training… twelve of us got together in the Anchorage airport and got started on RMI’s final Denali Expedition for 2024.   We made it with all of our gear and without flight cancellations… it all worked out.   We boarded the Denali Overland van for the big drive up to Talkeetna.  The windshield wipers were on for much of the journey and the spectacular mountain vistas were… shrouded, for the most part.  We broke up the trip with a stop at the last big supermarkets -in Wasilla- where we rounded out the trip menu with some fresh food for down low on the mountain.  We got back in the van then and made it up to Talkeetna by 5:30 PM.  Having settled our gear in the airplane hangar, we checked in to the comfortable Swiss Alaska Inn and then made the short hike over the railroad tracks and into downtown Talkeetna.  The rain seemed to be keeping the tourists in check so we had a quiet dinner at the brewery and then walked down to the mighty Susitna River to gaze at the water and the clouds (where there might normally be mountains).   The team then walked past a few perfectly good bars and watering holes to turn in early and be ready for what promises to be a big day of packing and prepping for the climb tomorrow. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn