Entries By pete van deventer
May 28, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Thursday, May 27, 2021 - 6:39pm PT
It sounded like rain drumming off the tent at a consistent staccato all night, into this morning. The problem was that there was frost in the tent and the temp was below zero. So was it rain? Nope. Graupel. Lots of graupel. As well as snow. And wind to move it. We had planned to rest anyways and that was perfect for today. We had a big bagel and smoked salmon brunch, then tucked back into tents to stay warm and dry.
The snow is anywhere from ankle to well over knee deep through camp. The wind have started to subside some this afternoon, but our world is still really white, with snow filtering down from the sky.
We'll do dinner and some warm tea and crawl into our sleeping bags to see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guide Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
May 27, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
May 26, 2021 - 11:54 pm PT
We are happily reunited with all of our things at 14,000' Camp. We had a leisurely brunch before grabbing empty packs to drop back down and retrieve our cache at 13,500'. Laden back down with food, fuel, and snacks, we popped back up to camp in an easy hour. After a short siesta to discover what we'd hidden in that hole and go on a snacking binge, we threw our backs into building walls to protect our camp from what sounds like a bit of incoming weather. We're planning to take a rest day tomorrow, which lines up well with the weather and see what happens after that!
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team
Great work everyone!! Stay warm and stay safe! Jason and Doug, everyone here at work is rooting for you!
Posted by: Breanna Watkins on 5/28/2021 at 5:26 am
May 26, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Wednesday, May 26, 2021 - 12:36 am PT
It's been a wild day. Things were perfect this morning to move. We didn't rush out of camp, instead letting sun start to dry the frost from our tents before we packed them. The climb to 14,000' was pleasant all the way. There were some periods where a mild breeze cooled us, but in a way e were thankful for some respite from the heat of the sun. Once we got to 14,000' Camp, it got exciting. Just as we started to set up the first tents, we got hit with a blast of wind that was probably pushing 40 mph. Another was quick on its heels. And that was how it went - sudden strong blasts that weren't tied to hitting us from any one particular direction. It was a magnificent display of teamwork, as everybody came together to get tents up and then a wall built to provide some shelter from the gusts. We got a hot meal and are now deep in sleeping bags staying warm and drifting off to sleep. All in all, it was a great day and a great illustration of how Denali keeps you on your toes.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Sending positive thoughts to Cram from the CZ. You got this!
Posted by: Z on 5/29/2021 at 6:37 pm
Glad you got up there Marc! Wishing you calm and less freezing weather along the way! Felix has been learning a lot about Denali and always has questions about how big it is.
Love, Little Sis
Posted by: Sandi on 5/26/2021 at 2:56 pm
May 25, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 24, 2021 - 10:45 pm PT
Today was quite possibly the nicest day in the Alaska range that any of the guide team can remember. The last several days earned us a perfect, clear, calm day and as such the expedition cogs were churning all over camp. Teams that have been waiting to move to 14,000' Camp were busily taking down camp and teams that have been waiting to cache were saddling up to go. We already had packs loaded, so a quick breakfast got us going and then we were finally, FINALLY, climbing. The whole team climbed really strong, enjoying the chance to stretch our legs. A few stretches of walking got us to our cache location at 13,500', where we unloaded food and fuel, then enjoyed a light, quick jaunt back down to our 11,000' Camp. All told we had an easy six hours round trip. The forecast sounds like it's holding, so our intention tomorrow is to retrace our steps in the morning and head to our next home at 14,000'.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Glad you see you got to move again today!
Posted by: Sheila on 5/25/2021 at 8:52 pm
Wow this is amazing to “watch”! Praying for the whole team’s success. You got this, Matt! Enjoy every step.
Posted by: Linda Baker on 5/25/2021 at 5:41 pm
May 24, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Sunday, May 23, 2021 - 11:47 pm PT
Though it's almost June, the temps this morning hit us like the coldest winter chill. When we first crawled out of the tents it looked like today would be the day. It was cold, but the winds were light in camp. Above, huge plumes of snow launched off of the upper elevation ridgelines, a clear visual of how hard the winds were blowing aloft, but with them coming out of the north, we hoped the mountain would provide shelter and that the warmth that came with the sun would tame the winds. Instead, the opposite happened. As we ate breakfast the winds steadily increased in camp to a small squall, injecting snow through any opening in tents or clothes. Word from higher up said 14,000' Camp was no better. So we got the message and settled in. They've calmed considerably since this afternoon and the forecast calls for them to continue to diminish, so we know we'll get our shot to move up. The group is doing really well with the weather hang. Rounds of gin rummy, kindles, and movies are keeping everyone occupied, as well as a quick wall building session to protect our bathroom tent. Someone mentioned working on content for the Denali calendar as well. Fingers and toes are crossed we get to go climbing tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team, brought to you by Alice in Chains
(Previous blogs brought to you by Outkast and The Scorpions)
May 23, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
The team woke up to a foot of fresh snow this morning, which led to our activity of the morning. Shoveling. Once that was out of the way, the team transitioned to game time. A variety of games and a few lucky beginners carried us through the afternoon. Some cheesecake for dessert has the team powered up hoping for better weather tomorrow. We're seeing the winds of change and feel positive about the next couple days!
RMI Guides Matias, Chase, Pete, and team
Hi Marc
I Hope you’re having a good day! And that conditions r improving. We are so proud of you! Good luck today to u & ur whole team!
Nicole
Posted by: Nicole gabai on 5/25/2021 at 11:37 am
marc - wishing you good weather to complete your mission. the pix are amazing. best wishes to everyone! olga
Posted by: Olga on 5/24/2021 at 10:48 am
May 22, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Friday May 21, 2021 - 10:28 pm PT
We had a bit of a false start today. When e got up the winds that have been storming through camp were absent, the sky above clear, though thick, high clouds shrouded the upper mountain. As we finished breakfast, the side started to creep back, the clouds crept up and down to meet at us, and things started to look more marginal. We dragged our feet and started to see an improving trend, so we decided to go for it, knowing we could turn around and head for a snug camp if it didn't work out. We climbed Motorcycle Hill our of camp in some low visibility, but otherwise pleasant conditions, but as we crested to the ridgeline, the wind found us, cooler than a polar bears toenails. With less than optimal visibility, increasing winds, and a significant stretch of climbing in front of us, we decided to retreat back to camp.
In the end, it was nice to stretch the legs and we'll be ready when the mountain opens her arms and says come on up.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and Team
Looks so unbelievably beautiful!!! Keep sending pics - we can at least imagine we are there with you. :D
Posted by: Monica Deckard on 5/22/2021 at 10:28 pm
That image of the mountain opening her arms to your group is quite lovely. May she see fit to do that sooner than later. Nice to stretch your legs, Hope better weather arrives soon.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/22/2021 at 10:45 am
May 21, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT
Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank! Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!
Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am
Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!
Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm
May 19, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 18, 2021 - 11:53 pm PT
Things are so far wiring well in our favor. The Glacier below us was in a cloud and snow today, the elevations above chilly and windy, but our zone was perfect for a short return to our cache to grab all our food and fuel and move them up to our camp. Mission accomplished, we spent the afternoon resting in the tents reading, playing cards, and snacking. It was a well deserved break after three hard days of moving. We'll see what the weather brings us tomorrow. We might rest again, or we might move a cache uphill to 13,500'.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team
Pops/Jason - Hey it’s ari. i hope you’re enjoying your time up on the mountain. i can’t wait to hear about it when u go back home. proud of you. <3
~ ari
Posted by: Ari Barnett on 5/20/2021 at 3:32 pm
Dad/Hank- Keep up the great work and sounds pretty awesome so far! Glad to hear you are doing well and you got this!! Sean’s still pushing for skiing down it, ha! Love you - Katie and Sean
Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/19/2021 at 7:33 pm
May 18, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 17, 2021 - 11:40 pm
We had one more big day before we get a reprieve. This morning we found a light coating of snow in everything when we looked out of the tents, but blue skies and perfect conditions to pack up camp and move to 11,000' Camp. We were packed and moving by 9.45, and 6.5 hours later, we rolled into 11,000' Camp comfortably, though happy to be more or less done with our sleds.
We're settled in to a great camp now, with our cook tent much improved from last camp's. We'll be here for several days, so it's nice to be comfortable. We'll duck down just a little bit and grab our cache tomorrow, but otherwise the program is rest, after a couple big days. We'll check in tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Great to see you out in your element, Jason!
Great pics. Sending good-weather, best-health vibes!
Posted by: Terry Scalia on 5/28/2021 at 6:31 am
The inner pride you gain is so good, but impossible to share. Only you and those with you, or who have done it before, truly understand. Bill Bussey
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/19/2021 at 6:40 am
Hoping the storm passes and you have your days to move up and continue on safely. Keep the spirits up and enjoy every moment! Looking forward to the updates and we love you! - Katie & Sean
Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/29/2021 at 8:07 am
Thank you for the opportunity to learn about graupel!! What crazy weather you have had. I am throwing all my weight behind good weather thoughts for you and your expeditions all.
Posted by: Bethany on 5/28/2021 at 3:05 pm
View All Comments