This is RMI Team 6, standing on the summit of Denali at 6:10 p.m.. A little bit of a cloud, not much wind. Everybody is super happy and super healthy, we are looking forward to a good descent. Thank you everybody for your support.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
RMI Guide Mike Haugen calls from the summit of Denali, Alaska.
June 28, 2017 9:41 pm PST
Today our team practiced arguably the most important skill in all of mountaineering: patience. After a blustery, snowy night up here at 17K, the mountain finally came out this morning, but the upper reaches were cloaked in spindrift, lenticular clouds, and all the hallmarks of high wind. So, we decided to opt for a rest day at high camp to wait for the weather to clear up. The signs are looking more promising for tomorrow, and we're all hoping Denali will give us a shot. Keep your fingers crossed for us for clear skies in the morning!
Hugs from 17,000',
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 26, 2017
Today was a well deserved rest day! Yesterday was quite the endeavor and I think everyone was happy to not have an alarm clock to answer to. We stayed cozied in our sleeping bags until the sun hit our tents and the warmth beckoned us out around 9:45 am. Emerging from our tents we wet straight into a leisurely Quesadilla breakfast, a special request by Pepper Dee, who turned 26 today! Later in the day we took a walk to the Edge of the World and everyone got to strike a pose while peering out over the vast expanse of glaciers and mountain peaks. I may be bias but I think the best picture involved a blow up couch that the birthday boy had hauled up all the way from base camp! We finished the day off with a quick dinner and chat about plans for tomorrow. If the weather cooperates we will be headed to 17,000' camp in order to be in position for our summit bid! Yeehaw!
Good night from 14!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Julian… AMAZING!!!
Nice work pulling it up to 17K on the big wall and fixed lines.
The photo back down at The Edge in 14 camp is spectacular. Happy that you and your team that have amazing weather. Saturday looks like it might dump metres of snow again, but then you’ll be back in the clear. Best of luck!!! Stay safe.
Stephen
Posted by: Stephen Wright on 6/28/2017 at 11:03 am
What kind of pose did you strike Gloria!
Posted by: Michelle Weekly on 6/28/2017 at 1:11 am
June 25, 2017
We must be doing something right to deserve this many days in a row with good weather! The team had a great day working our way up to cache gear, food, and fuel at 17,000 ft Camp. The ridge that leads up to high camp provides some incredible climbing and amazing views. A few of our climbers commented that it was the best climbing that they have ever done. The team did so great that we earned a rest day tomorrow before we position ourselves up at high camp the day after. Superstitiously, we all agreed not to take a shower as long as this good weather holds. This shouldn't be too tough to abide by as the nearest shower is a weeks walk away!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 24, 2017 10:36 pm PST
And today we rested. After our big move day yesterday we felt we deserved a day of kicking back and recovering. We made a point of emerging from our tents no earlier than 10 am and got the day started out right by consuming a mountain of pancakes. Kudos to Caleb for consuming the largest pancake of the morning! By 1 pm we were wrapping up the pancake party and as you may imagine, that long of a breakfast can really take it out of you .... So we rested a bit more. Once we felt we had properly digested we reviewed fixed line travel and running belays in preparation for our carry tomorrow. After practice for a few hours it was nearly time for dinner! Funny how time flies on a rest day. We had an early dinner of gourmet Ramen and before the sun could go down on us and give way to the chill of 14 Camp we headed to bed. Tomorrow we have our first go at the fixed lines!
Goodnight from 14!
Hasta Manana
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 23, 2017 10:30 pm PST
Greetings from 14 Camp on Denali!
Our team took advantage of stable weather and strong legs today to retrace our steps back up to 14,200 feet, this time with tents and sleeping bags in tow. We were excited to ascend the steeps of Motorcycle Hill and Squirrel Hill for the last time, and lucky for us, windy corner proved not so windy after all.
The rest of the day was devoted to digging in our new camp, which is looking dialed and styled. The team is looking forward to having some time to relax and adjust to the new altitude tomorrow, with a non-zero chance of Horiskey-style blueberry pancakes.
Ciao,
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 22, 2017
After having so much fun with our cache mission up to 14,000 feet and back, the team decided they want to do it again tomorrow. This time we will be moving up to make a new camp at 14,200. We hope that the weather tomorrow will be as lovely as today.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 21, 2017
Good weather has finally hit Denali. The pressure is rising along with the temperatures....for now. We have had a good time at our 11k camp but it time to start moving up higher. Our plan is to do a carry up to 14,000 feet to cache some gear and then move up after a couple of days. If this weather holds, we will wake up early and hit the trail so we can get up to 14k before it gets too hot. Most people would think that being to hot would not be an issue while mountain climbing in Alaska, but it can be a real energy drain when the hot sun reflects off he snow like a solar oven.
RMI Guide Mike Haugen & Team
Glo, I can only imagine the view from your front porch has to be spectacular and awe-inspiring! You and your fellow climbers are in our thoughts and prayers, be safe, love you, dad
June 19, 2017Denali remains unseasonably cold for June. This actually works in our favor for the lower camps. The cold days allow us to wake up a little later to move camps or cache before the sun comes out and bakes us.
We successfully completed our mission for the day, which was to go back to our last camp and retrieve some food and gear that we left cached there. We couldn't have asked for better travel conditions with perfect weather and a great path stomped through the deep snow. We completed our task with enough time for second breakfast and an afternoon nap. This mountaineering stuff is rough!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
June 18, 2017
Well folks, I'm happy to report the view is indeed gorgeous! We got a little later start today due to some inclement weather, and it turned out to be the right call. Rolling out of camp at 8, the skies had cleared and we were blessed with views of Kahiltna Dome and Mt Crosson. I'd be lying if I said it didn't make the walking a little easier! That and the fact that we opted to cache gear at our last camp and do a back carry tomorrow. So, with light loads and beautiful surroundings, we were happy to roll into Camp 3 at 11,000' and make an extra kush home for the next few days. Joe Horiskey would be proud! We're now all tucked in and prepping for another light day acclimatizing and making the trip down to 9,600' to retrieve the rest of our belongings.
Good night from Camp 3!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen
Awesome reading about your daily travels. Stay safe (and thinking about Lance and Caleb on this journey) :)
Posted by: Tina Kyllonen on 6/20/2017 at 9:31 am
Glo, what a wonderful father day present to hear your voice from Denali, the great one! Our thoughts and prayers are with you as your journey continues, be safe, love u, pa
Congrats Glo Roe and Team 6! Safe steps on the way back down!
Posted by: Kyle Parsons on 7/1/2017 at 3:01 am
Congrats Julian & team! SO excited for you all!!! Well done! :)
Posted by: Cheryl on 6/30/2017 at 3:11 pm
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