Entries By matias francis
May 21, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Thursday, May 20, 2021 - 11:09 pm PT
Today was a bit of a groundhog day, though if anything, the weather made itself pretty clear as far as its intentions. Intermittently gusty winds and consistent snow made it an easy day to hang in the tents reading, watching movies, playing cards, and sawing logs. We're currently cooking a dinner of a curried rice and miso soup. We'll welcome the sleeping bags for another good night of sleep and see what tomorrow brings.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
May 19, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Tuesday, May 18, 2021 - 11:53 pm PT
Things are so far wiring well in our favor. The Glacier below us was in a cloud and snow today, the elevations above chilly and windy, but our zone was perfect for a short return to our cache to grab all our food and fuel and move them up to our camp. Mission accomplished, we spent the afternoon resting in the tents reading, playing cards, and snacking. It was a well deserved break after three hard days of moving. We'll see what the weather brings us tomorrow. We might rest again, or we might move a cache uphill to 13,500'.
RMI Guides Pete, Matias, Chase, and team
Pops/Jason - Hey it’s ari. i hope you’re enjoying your time up on the mountain. i can’t wait to hear about it when u go back home. proud of you. <3
~ ari
Posted by: Ari Barnett on 5/20/2021 at 3:32 pm
Dad/Hank- Keep up the great work and sounds pretty awesome so far! Glad to hear you are doing well and you got this!! Sean’s still pushing for skiing down it, ha! Love you - Katie and Sean
Posted by: Katie Baskin on 5/19/2021 at 7:33 pm
May 18, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Monday, May 17, 2021 - 11:40 pm
We had one more big day before we get a reprieve. This morning we found a light coating of snow in everything when we looked out of the tents, but blue skies and perfect conditions to pack up camp and move to 11,000' Camp. We were packed and moving by 9.45, and 6.5 hours later, we rolled into 11,000' Camp comfortably, though happy to be more or less done with our sleds.
We're settled in to a great camp now, with our cook tent much improved from last camp's. We'll be here for several days, so it's nice to be comfortable. We'll duck down just a little bit and grab our cache tomorrow, but otherwise the program is rest, after a couple big days. We'll check in tomorrow.
RMI Guides Pete, Chase, Matias, and team
Great to see you out in your element, Jason!
Great pics. Sending good-weather, best-health vibes!
Posted by: Terry Scalia on 5/28/2021 at 6:31 am
The inner pride you gain is so good, but impossible to share. Only you and those with you, or who have done it before, truly understand. Bill Bussey
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/19/2021 at 6:40 am
May 17, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 11:28 pm PT
We moved a whole lot of our food, fuel, and various other sundries up to about 10k today. Loads were lighter than yesterday by a lot, but the terrain was steeper and it was hard work. The team did great, even when the sun turned on the microwave oven on us and it started to feel more like the desert in July than an Alaskan Glacier in May.
All our work today sets us up well to move to 11k camp tomorrow. We know the trail, loads should be even lighter, and it promises to be a successful day. We'll check in tomorrow from up higher!
RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis, and team
The pictures by the planes are great!! Wonderful to see the group, everyone looks ready to go!! Fun to read about the first few days. Cannot wait to read more!!
Posted by: Bethany on 5/17/2021 at 6:27 pm
May 16, 2021
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Matias Francis, Chase Halbert
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,300'
May 16, 2021 - 12:41 am PT
We hit the ground running today. At 8 am the weather looked good to fly, so we hustled to the hanger, changed into mountain clothes, and loaded gear on the two K2 otters that would ferry us to Basecamp. The flight in is always a highlight, as the tundra gives way to foothills, and then to the craggy peaks and ridges of the Alaska range, with cracked up glaciers carving channels between.
We took an hour or two to get our gear sorted, sleds loaded, and ropes setup, and then struck out from Basecamp to make our way up the lower Kahiltna to the base of ski hill. Often the first hour of moving with sleds has some hiccups, but not for us today. The group moved well, enjoying firm enough trail conditions that we could eschew the snowshoes.
We're settled into camp, feed, and tucking into sleeping bags for our first night in the mountain. We'll be in touch tomorrow!
RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer & Team
Jason- Your structural engineering group is cheering you on from afar!! We miss you and look forward to hearing all about your adventures. Hope you’re not thinking of Camden Shops up there lol.
Posted by: Katherine Bemis on 5/28/2021 at 6:30 am
Jason, All that tire pulling with Sully is paying off! You got this!
Lisa and Charlie
Posted by: Lisa and Charlie on 5/18/2021 at 9:56 am
May 9, 2021
Posted by: Mike King, James Bealer, Henry Coppolillo, Alan Davis, Chase Halbert, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,600'
RMI Guides Mike King and Alan Davis led their Four Day Climb teams to 11,600' today before being turned back by new snow and poor conditions. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported drifting snow up to 2 feet in places. The teams departed from Camp Muir around 8 am and will conclude their program at Rainier BaseCamp today.
Remember the great Ed Viesters
‘Getting up is optional…..getting down is MANDATORY’
Peace and mahalo
@tgsaet
Posted by: Scottie on 5/25/2021 at 12:11 am
May 5, 2021
Posted by: Dave Hahn, Avery Parrinello, Cal Smith, JM Gorum, Ben Ammon, Matias Francis
Categories:
Elevation: 12,600'
The Five Day Climb May 1 - 5 led by RMI Guides Dave Hahn and JM Gorum has returned to Camp Muir after making their summit attempt today. The team reached 12,600' today before being forced to turn around due to route conditions. On Tuesday the group ascended to Camp Muir and spent time yesterday getting in more glacier training and exploring parts of the route before morning their attempt this morning. The group will pack up their gear and decend to Paradise this afternoon.
maybe i have previously been on your list. I know i have been for years. I climbed with you guys in 1969, 1970, and 1972
Also, Please add my two sons, one of which climbed with you in 2016 I believe. also, my daughter-in-law.
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Posted by: Bill Bussey on 5/6/2021 at 8:17 am
Great work!!
Posted by: TK Ito on 5/6/2021 at 7:45 am
August 10, 2019
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Dominic Cifelli, Matias Francis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 6,200'
Great to read the blog and get your messages, Hank! Prayers and fingers crossed for improved weather to move forward for safety and success!
Posted by: Nancy Thoenes on 5/22/2021 at 4:11 am
Bummer… Waiting is good for Jason’s back, I think??? Hopefully tomorrow will work out and you can cache!
Posted by: Mandy Powell on 5/21/2021 at 5:43 pm
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