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Entries By leif bergstrom


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Depart Talkeetna, Land at Kahiltna Glacier

Wednesday, May 17, 2023 - 11:46 pm PT

We woke up to an early call from K2 that said chances looked good to fly, so after a quick cup of coffee we rushed over to the hangar. After a few hours of hurry up and waiting, we were able to get out on a flight and land on the Kahiltna glacier in beautiful conditions. We unloaded all the group gear, organized everything for moving, and made our way to our first camp for the night. After six long hours, we finally pulled into the base of Ski Hill. Set up camp, and made a quick dinner of Mac and cheese under the clear skies. We are set up to carry tomorrow, but might sleep in a little bit first.

Check in tomorrow,

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Get it done Dawny!!! Watching you!!!

Posted by: Tiff on 5/19/2023 at 9:47 am

You got this Dawn!  We are all thinking about you down here and cheering you on!!

Posted by: Kendyl and James on 5/19/2023 at 5:18 am


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Arrive Talkeetna, Wait for Weather Window to Fly On

Monday, May 15, 2023 - 8:02 pm PT

The May 14th Denali has officially begun!

After a long day of travel yesterday, the entire team made their way to Talkeetna and spent the day packing, organizing, weighing, repacking, and finally getting all the gear weighed, set up and ready to fly.   

While the weather doesn’t look promising, the entire team is primed and ready to go as soon as a weather window opens. We will wake up tomorrow morning with the goal of flying and see what the skies bring. 

Until we fly, we will continue to eat warm food, drink cold beer, and enjoy all the amenities we will soon miss.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Dramatic pics with lots of smiles. Best of luck to all.

Posted by: Marcia Mikolaj on 5/18/2023 at 7:31 am

Hi, I wish You good luck, perfect wether, a safe tour. Return healthy! Enjoy each moment.
Elisabeth

Posted by: Elisabeth on 5/18/2023 at 5:00 am


RMI Guides Hone Their Craft in Colorado

From Dan May

At the beginning of April a crop of RMI guides including myself, Leif Bergstrom, Henry Coppolillo, Lacie Smith, Tatum Whatford, and George Hedreen, headed off to the Rocky Mountains of Colorado to work on honing our alpine guide skills with the help of the AMGA. We split our time between Boulder and Estes Park, Colorado while completing the Alpine Guide Course. Often in these courses, you are amongst colleagues spread across other guiding companies, however in this instance, we had the opportunity to work and learn together. Being able to sharpen our guiding skills in alpine terrain amongst our peers that we work with in the North Cascades, Denali, and South America was a great opportunity.

Practicing terrain belays

These courses offer us the chance to add additional tools to our ever-growing toolkit as guides while being reviewed, critiqued, and taught by the AMGA instructors. While romping around the Flat Irons, Eldorado Canyon, and Tyndall Gorge of Rocky Mountain National Park, we took turns climbing rock, ice, snow, and mixed routes while guiding each other through the terrain. These chances and skills as a guide are invaluable. It is easy to convince your friends to go climbing with you, but to convince your friends to let you guide them through peculiar terrain to practice your techniques and skill sets is another story.

Leading a pitch of mixed climbing.

At the end of the nine days, all RMI guides successfully completed the course and had a great time doing so. Now we are all turning our sights to Ashford and Mt. Rainier in preparation for another great summer of climbing.

George, Lacie, and Dan practicing short roping.

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Thank you for sharing how you, as guides, maintain & improve your skills. I hope to climb with RMI this year. I wish you all a safe and healthy climbing season!!

Posted by: James O’Neil on 4/23/2023 at 9:49 am


Mt. Baker: Summit on the Easton Glacier!

RMI Guide Hannah Smith checked from the Summit of Mt. Baker at 12:04 pm PDT today. The team successfully reached the summit via the Easton Glacier Route. Hannah let us know, that the team is stoked and had a beautiful day of climbing. The team will descend to the trailhead tomorrow. 

Congratulations Team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hannah, Lief and Nick - you did great work with our group. You were consummate professionals and excellent company as well. I look forward to joining you again on a future journey. James

Posted by: James Coley on 10/8/2022 at 4:38 am


Mt. Shuksan: Seminar Team Summit in Perfect Style

Our Mt. Shuksan seminar tagged the top of Mt. Shuksan this morning. After many days of training in the rain, the team awoke to clear skies for their climb. The previous five days were spent learning about rope travel, weather patterns, avalanche safety, snow and ice anchors, etc. RMI Guide Alan Davis reported great route conditions and a top out time of 9:30am. 

The team is back at the trailhead and will enjoy some good food and drink before starting their journey home.

Nice work climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Teams Summit with 100%

RMI Guides Mike Walter & Abby Westling led the Four Day Climb August 26 - 29 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning with all climbers in both groups.  Mike reported a beautiful day on the mountain as the teams were approaching the crater rim around 7:10 am.  Climbers will spend time in the summit crater before starting their descent, dropping 4,500' back to Camp Muir.  After a quick stop they will continue the remaining 4,500' to Paradise.  Once back at Rainier BaseCamp later this afternoon the program will conclude with a small celebration for the teams.

Nice work today everyone!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams on the Summit

The Four Day Climb August 17 - 20 led by RMI Guides Mike Walter and Nikki Champion reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Mike reported moderate winds and a busy route.  Camp Muir sandwiched between two layers of clouds, dense clouds above Camp Muir and a light marine layer above Paradise currently.  The climbers will take a short break at Camp Muir to repack and re-hydrate before starting down to Paradise.  Once at Paradise the shuttle will return the climbers to Rainier BaseCamp where they will conclude their program with a short ceremony.

Nice work today everyone!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Yay! Well done Team! So happy for you all!

Posted by: Alice Schenk on 8/21/2022 at 5:01 am

Great news!

Posted by: Linda Ramge on 8/20/2022 at 9:03 am


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Makes Sunset Climb

The Five Day Climb teams July 30 - 3 August led by RMI Guides Jack Delaney and Abby Westling made a sunset climb to the summit yesterday evening.  The teams reached the crater rim around 8 pm and quickly began their descent as fairly strong winds accommpanied them the entire climb. The climb went well and the team was stoked to summit even with the constant winds.  As of 7 am the climbers were sleeping in at Camp Muir with plan to start their descent to Paradise around 10 or 11 am.

Congratulations team!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Walter & Kautz Seminar Reach Point Success

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Kautz July 22 - 27 led by RMI Guide Mike Walter reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team reached the crater rim at 6 am and tagged Point Success.  They will return to their high camp for their final night on the mountain and descend tomorrow to the trailhead.

Nice work team!

Leave a Comment For the Team

Mt. Rainier: Grom and Antenucci Lead Four Day Climb Teams to Summit

The Four Day Climb July 17 - 20 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning led by RMI Guides Casey Grom & Kiira Antenucci.  The teams enjoyed clear skies, sunshine and light winds today.  After enjoying the views and spending time in the crater they began their descent from the crater rim around 6:45 am. Once back at Camp Muir they will pack up and continue down to Paradise.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Awesome job!  Parking lot is next.

Posted by: Rene Gonzalez on 7/20/2022 at 10:12 am

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