Entries By leif bergstrom
May 20, 2024
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Hello from 11,000' Camp on Denali!
After a quick breakfast of oatmeal, we tore down camp and retraced our steps from yesterday. As we worked our way in and out of the clouds and limited visibility we finally pushed past our cache site, and continued to 11,000 ft. Once we rolled into camp, the work for the day wasn't done. We made quick work setting up tents and building camp. After many hours of hard work we finally wrapped up the evening with some ramen as it lightly snowed at camp. Tomorrow we will make the quick jaunt downhill to our cache and get the rest of our gear. Check in tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Sign Up For Denali Expedition May 14, 2024 Emails
May 19, 2024
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
Saturday, May 18, 2024 - 10:11 pm PT
Another solid day in the books. We woke up to clear skies, and cold temperatures. After a later dinner yesterday, we opted for a Slightly more casual start time. After a quick breakfast of granola and blueberries we packed up about 2/3rds of our group food, fuel, gear, and personal food and started up Ski Hill. After many hours of climbing we ran into Dustin's team digging up their cache around 9,900', and decided that would be a good place to put ours. We unloaded all the gear and food we wouldn't need for the next few days, buried it, and marked it with some wands. Then strapped our now empty sleds to our back and made our way back to the base of Ski Hill. We finished the evening up with the weather and some beef burritos. The plan is to move to 11 camp tomorrow if weather allows. Everyone is doing great on this first few challenging days. Check in tomorrow!
RMI Guide Nikki Champion
Sign Up For Denali Expedition May 14, 2024 Emails
Good job on the first part. Sounds challenging. We’re hoping the weather cooperates and things go smoothly for the team. We love you Pops!
Posted by: Noel, Xander, and Nora on 5/21/2024 at 11:30 am
Sounds like a strong start! We are rooting for you and the team! Sending lots of strength & love!
Posted by: Kelly Jeremy on 5/19/2024 at 2:44 pm
May 18, 2024
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Denali
Elevation: 7,800'
May 17, 2024 11:22PM PT
First mountain day in the books. After a pretty grim weather forecast, we had planned to sleep in a bit and have a later breakfast. To our surprise, K2 Aviation called us at 7:30 AM to tell us the weather looked great and to make our way over to the hangar.
By 9 AM, we had changed into our mountain boots and loaded into the plane. After a beautiful flight, we landed at basecamp - unloaded, organized, and rigged up the sleds, buried a basecamp cache for our return, and made our way out onto the lower Kahiltna.
It was a long heavy day - the one day of the trip we carry everything we brought.
Under blue skies, we rolled onto the base of the Ski Hill, built camp, and settled in.
We had a dinner of mac and cheese with bacon and got gear ready to cache tomorrow.
Hoping for another beautiful day, but just glad to be moving.
Check in tomorrow!
RMI Guides Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom and Team
Sign Up For Denali Expedition May 14, 2024 Emails
Thank you for the updates! You guys are all doing great! Sending you well wishes for a safe climb!
Posted by: Abby Roberts on 5/19/2024 at 9:21 am
Great start. Keep the good weather coming and climb safe
Posted by: Doc Peters on 5/18/2024 at 5:28 pm
Welcome to the first dispatch for the May 14th Denali Climb!
After a busy few days, getting to Talkeetna, and spending all day yesterday packing and preparing for the upcoming expedition, we went to bed hoping to fly the following morning.
We woke up early, called K2, and made our way to the hangar by 8 AM, dressed and ready to fly. Spirits were high, and we were optimistic. We loaded the planes and changed into our climbing gear. Unfortunately, the weather closed in on the mountain, and we entered a waiting period.
That waiting period extended into the afternoon and evening. We filled our day with a late morning coffee, walks to the river, a sanity run by Leif and me, and yet another dinner in town.
We will wake up again tomorrow and hope to fly. Until then, we enjoy the warm food and hot showers.
Cheers,
RMI Guide Nikki Champion & Team
Sign Up For Denali Expedition May 14, 2024 Emails
Tim & climbing crew: Hope all is going well on your climb &/or descent -as iam just getting into the RMI blog 1st time to follow your expedition up Denali - after our Alaska Land & Sea cruise -as I took your pic down by river in Talkeetna before your climb ( 1 of the group of 14 you met )
Posted by: Pete Sturos on 6/1/2024 at 5:37 am
Good Luck and enjoy your adventure!
Posted by: Priscilla on 5/18/2024 at 8:48 am
August 20, 2023
Posted by: Andy Bond, Leif Bergstrom, Charlie Harrison, Joey Manship, Evan Redman, Will Nash
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Andy Bond and Leif Bergstrom climbed to Ingraham Flats today. The teams were above the smoke and enjoyed a wonderful sunrise. While at the Flats the team learned crevasse rescue and did some ice climbing. The team will finish up their training soon and return to Paradise later this afternoon.
Someone add 10 extra pounds to Sara’s pack and DON’T TELL HER!! Good luck to everyone.
Posted by: Dwight on 8/21/2023 at 1:33 pm
Best of luck to all the group especially my son, Heath Scheibmeir. Enjoy the wonders of your trip and above all STAY SAFE! GOD BLESS YOU ALL!
Posted by: Joni Y Thummel on 8/20/2023 at 8:49 am
August 16, 2023
Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Leif Bergstrom made it to the top of Disappointment Cleaver today. Route conditions and warm weather made it unsafe for our larger team to continue onto the upper mountain. The Team is back at Camp Muir and will be descending to Paradise soon.
Congratulations Team!
August 9, 2023
Posted by: Casey Grom, Joe Hoch, Charlie Harrison, Leif Bergstrom, Raymond Holt, Evan Redman
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,400'
The Four Day Climb August 6 - 9 led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Joe Hoch were unable to reach the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The lenticular cloud over the mountain brought snow and winds and the teams reached 13,400' before deteriorating weather encouraged them to turn around. The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a quick stop before continuing to Paradise this afternoon.
You came very close! Darned bad luck with the weather. Great effort getting up there, can’t wait for the stories.
Posted by: Olga Walker on 8/9/2023 at 8:09 pm
Great effort. Much to be proud of. Managed challenges but can’t manage Mother Nature.
Be proud of yourselves.
Posted by: Margery Marshall on 8/9/2023 at 2:14 pm
August 6, 2023
Posted by: Nikki Champion, Leif Bergstrom, Calvin Jiricko, Ellison Boord, Raymond Holt, Bailey Servais
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The Four Day Climb August 3 - 6 was unable to make a summit attempt due to continued rain throughout the night. RMI Guide Nikki Champion reported that rain began at Camp Muir around 10 pm and continued throughout the night. Light rain continued to fall this morning. The teams are planning to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am heading downhill to Paradise.
We expect them to return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.
Being a first-timer, although the trip turned out to be incomplete, took away a couple of things from the experience:
1. Now I know that it is doable and will come back to get to the summit next year
2. The basic training and know-how will be helpful for future activities (thanks to all the guides)
Personally, I thought, although summitting was out of the question due to bad weather, going up to Ingrahm flat was possible in the morning and would have given us some experience regarding rope travel. Not sure, if something else other than the weather was under consideration for this decision not to go to Ingrahm flat
Finally, I plan to come back next year. Would it be possible to get some sort of concession that time due to the fact that we could not do the second part at all this time around?
Thanks
—manoj
Posted by: Manoj Devasarma on 8/9/2023 at 4:24 pm
July 29, 2023
Posted by: Mike King, Pete Van Deventer, Leif Bergstrom, Nick Sinapius, Hannah Blum, Will Nash
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four-Day climb led by RMI guides, Mike King and Leif Bergstrom, reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The teams were standing on top at around 5:40am after a quick ascent.
They will descend to Rainier Basecamp this afternoon to bask in their success and enjoy a bit of rest after their hard work.
Great job team!
July 16, 2023
Posted by: Steve Gately, Leif Bergstrom, Lacie Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
On Friday in the North Cascades, RMI Guide Steve Gately and team reached the summit of Mt. Shuksan via the Fisher Chimneys. The team spent their final night in the mountains at high camp near Winnie's Slide before descending to the trailhead.
Keep going!! Love to you Tim! Go team!!
Posted by: Teri on 5/21/2024 at 12:40 am
Way to go Pops! We’re rooting for you. We love you.
Posted by: Noel on 5/20/2024 at 8:19 am
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