Entries By jt schmitt
October 9, 2017
Posted by: Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 13,000'
Hola amigos!
We are checking in from
13,100 on Ixta, reporting light rain and overcast skies, but with loads of optimism for clear skies tomorrow for our hike to high camp at 15,000 feet!
Today was spent in preparation for our ascent of Ixta, which included a stop in the town of Amecameca, which was devoid of tourism and gave us a wonderful insight into authentic Mexican culture. After stocking up on water and last minuet supplies we drove to the park entrance where we stretched our legs with a walk to our abode for the evening. The rest of the evening was spent packing and eating a delicious meal prepared by our wonderful host Rogelio. The meal was a delicious concoction of beef, rice, guacamole and beans.
We will wake tomorrow and start our way up the trail to Ixta high camp!
Buenas noches from
RMI Guides Christina, JT and the rest of the Mexican volcanoes team!
On The Map
October 9, 2017
Posted by: Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mexico
Elevation: 13,400'
Sunday, October 8, 2017
Hey this is Christina in Mexico with a blog post:
Some of our team, our world champion boxer, Patty, summited
La Malinche today! The rest of us had a truly great day and got in a big acclimatization hike up to 13,400 feet. The best part of the day was that everyone felt great and was so happy to be hiking up way above the Mexican countryside. The climb took us up through the green forests and to the summit ridge where we watched thunderheads roll across the land below. We can back down in a whirlwind of conversations and laughter to hot showers and a sizzling dinner. Everyone is looking forward to Ixtaccihuatl.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
On The Map
Hola!
The team convened this evening at the lovely Hotel Geneve in the Zona Rosa region of
Mexico City. To everyone's relief the earthquake damage proved to be minimal in this area of the city, and hopefully that continues to be the trend for the entirety of the trip. The team met each other for the first time in the lobby of the hotel, whilst seated in high backed lounge chairs, surrounded by paintings and towering bookshelves which made for a rather regal setting to begin our Mexican adventure.
After meeting the team and going over a brief synopsis of the days to come, we took a short walk through the Zona Rosa to a lively establishment that served authentic Mexican food, tasty margaritas, as well as a full mariachi band. Although we were not able to sing along to the tunes with the rest of the patrons, I am sure we enjoyed the food just as much as the locals sharing the restaurant with us.
Tomorrow we depart Mexico City and head for the former training site of the Mexican Olympic team, La Malinche, and begin our acclimatization with a trip up the extinct volcanoe.
Buenas noches,
RMI Guides Christina Dale, JT Schmitt and the rest of the RMI Mexican Volcanoes team!
The
Four Day Summit Climb July 22 - 25, 2017 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.
RMI Guides Mike Walter, Lydia Johnson and JT Schmitt reported clear skies and calm winds. The team will return to Camp Muir and continue down to Paradise. They will conclude their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Our Five Day Summit Climb team led by
RMI Guide Andy Bond reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They enjoyed calm winds and clear skies during their climb. The team will descend to Camp Muir, rest and pack their bags, before continuing their descent to Paradise. Once at BaseCamp they will gather for a presentation of certificates before concluding their program.
Congratulations to today's
Five Day Summit Climb team!
A leisurely, big breakfast of eggs, bacon and hash browns was had after sleeping in fairly late yesterday. When we finally got out of the posh we were surprised to find that planes might be flying soon. Yes, we were keeping an eye on the weather, but it wasn't really that good yet. At first we couldn't really believe it and the team indulged in some leg wrestling antics (which the women handily won).Then we heard the words, "RMI Okita, two Otters are in the air for you".So we went from slow mo to go go as we tore our tents down and packed in a matter of about twenty minutes! I think some folks were motivated to leave. As we brought the last of our stuff the fifty yards to the glacier landing strip we saw the planes come into view. By 1:00 we were in town, unpacking group gear and trying to dry stuff that was soaked from the unseasonably warm temps and rain. We'll not discuss our evening affair in much detail except that the food was good and the libations rather excessive.
We're on our way to the airport now, twenty three days after flying on to the mountain. No summit to boast of this time. But looking back on it all, it's the people we climb with and share adventures with that inspires me to live the life of my dreams.
Summits may be nice but are somewhat ephemeral. Friendships formed while climbing mountains last a lifetime. Thanks to the wonderful group of climbers with whom I've shared the past three weeks. You're the best!
And now they are on their way back to you, with stories to tell and memories to share. Indulge their eccentricities. Should they reach for their pee bottle in the middle of the night or ask for a "swirl" after dinner, don't worry. They'll recover from these mountain habits in time.
Thanks for joining us these past three weeks!
Goodbye,
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
June 10, 2017
The sleep of the dead finally hit me this morning just after my last post. An hour later JT asks, "Should we get up? It's 1:04 am and the alarm on my phone hasn't gone off!"
The night hadn't brought the hoped for cooling, but it was time to leave and make that trip to Base Camp. Breakfast and hots were served in the remains of our old Posh site, sans the actual Posh, then we were off. As we turned the corner at 10,000' heading down the Kahiltna we were treated to the amazing view down glacier of the jewels ad the Alaska Range. Hunter, Foraker, Crosson and other peaks were starkly defined in shades of black and white, along with some other hue that seemed hard to place. Unusually dark clouds prevented the pinks and reds we often see at 3:30-4:00 am, but this view I've never seen before, and may have been even more spectacular. 6+ hours of hard walking finally brought us back to Base Camp. Reflective of the poor snow year in the Alaskan mountains this year, there were a number of sketchy crevasse crossing to be negotiated. Then white out conditions kept us from seeing the landmarks that would otherwise tell us exactly where we were, but the track in the snow of others gave us something to follow. Then, low and behold, the tents of Base Camp popped into view and we knew we were done. Unfortunately, these same clouds have prevented planes from flying and landing here, so we are again captive of the weather gods and just waiting to be released from
Denali to return to civilization where we might wash the twenty one days of toil off us and sit in chairs at a table and eat food that requires more than just a spoon.
I just hope that, when we do get to that restaurant, some social graces return to folks and we don't see them licking their bowls clean in anticipation of the next course.
I'll of course advise everyone to bring a pee bottle to their hotel room, and perhaps even a CMC (clean mountain can), because some habits might just be too difficult to break after these twenty one days.
Goodnight from 7200' camp, where I hear the snow hitting the tent walls in increasing intensity. Oh well, at least we need walk no more, for now.
RMI Guides Brent, Christina, JT & Team
June 10, 2017
Posted by: Brent Okita, Christina Dale, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
June 10, 2017 12:07 am PST
It was a day of decisions. The team sadly broke apart today, with the main group heading down, and two strong and driven individuals opting to stay on the mountain to give 'er another try. Caught in the middle I was torn between sticking with the two and going for the summit, or sticking with the main part of the team. After anguishing over the decision, I chose to finish off the expedition with the team, rather than lead our two erstwhile members to the top.
A sketchy forecast helped me in my decision, and I think my two climbers will have a better chance of summiting with the groups I left them with. They'll be joining Tyler and Jake's teams, who have a bit more time than I to wait for good weather.
So here we are, in our tents at
11,200' camp waiting for the night to referee the glacier so we can travel over its frozen surface to minimize the risk of crevasse falls that have been occurring much more than normal lately.
It's sad separating from our two teammates, and leaving the mountain without a summit under our belts. For me it's been twenty five trips since I've not summited. But folks are in good spirits.
I think we all really appreciate the time we've spent here, the friendships developed, the hard times as well as the fun times.
In two hours we awaken for one last day on the glacier. That is, as long as the air service can pick us up in the morning.
With any luck, next time I chat with you I'll have had a shower, eaten a big ol' steak and perhaps consumed an adult beverage or two.
Good night from 11,200'.
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Christina Dale and
JT Schmitt
On The Map
June 9, 2017 12:55 a.m. PT
Every fifteen minutes another gust would pummel the side of the tent. Of course, it would have to be on my side. The moisture inside our precious shelter, frozen to the walls of the tent would fall on us with each gust, forcing us deeper into our bed of down.
Day five at
17,200' turned in to a real doozy. The forecasts have actually been fairly good lately, and no good news was to be had with the latest issued. In fact, a high wind alert was posted for the upcoming four days with winds into the sixties. This had camp on edge, including my wise assistants Christina and JT, upon whom I rely so heavily to help make our trip the best and safest, My initial optimism that the weather would surely improve with time was tempered by the latest info coming out. A decision to retreat to the relative safety, protection and comfort of 14,200' camp was made by all in camp, even though the strong winds are cause for concern as we need to navigate the technical terrain of the
West Buttress.
Taking down tents and packing up went well even in those conditions, a testament of the ability of our veteran and tested team. The climb down to camp went well, besides the inevitable traffic of perhaps fifty people leaving camp simultaneously.
To our delight, the RMI teams at 14,200' got into our cache and had camp all set up for us when we pulled in, What incredible work, A huge THANKS to [url=https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc]https://www.rmiguides.com/blog/expedition/denali_5_23_17/desc[/url],
Jake and their teams!!!
So now, at day 19 we have a number of folks feeling the pull of home and a life put on hold while we take part in this incredible experience. A couple of others are still excited to finish off the climb and willing to put in a few more days. An updated forecast in the morning might help us see if we actually have a realistic chance of getting a good enough break on the weather in a few days time. We'll make some final decisions in the morning, but right now we might not even have good enough weather to leave camp.
Goodnight from 14,200' camp (revisited),
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Christina Dale and JT Schmitt
On The Map
June 7, 2017
"Ok, I know we've been climbing for three hours straight, but let's get a quick bite to eat and drink and get out of here and back to camp."
"Brent, there's like over thirty people behind us on the route." JT exclaims, trying to be heard over the winds that have just picked up.
This was the scene at Denali Pass a few hours ago, high point of our midday sojourn to kick in the route, reset the anchors to the current route and mostly get some exercise so we do not waste away up here.
After passing a windless evening last night I was optimistic of our chances to summit this morning. But, as our typically poor luck would have it, around 7:00am the first ripples of wind tickled the tent walls. By 9:00 we had 40 mph gusts pushing the tent walls into our faces. Yes, we were all ready to go if the weather improved since it wasn't horrible outside besides those pesky gusts.
Finally, 11:45 rolled around and we decided to go for a little walk.
By 12:30 we were climbing to
Denali Pass. This is typically later than we'd like to start for the summit, but we didn't have the summit in mind anyways. What took me by surprise was how our little walk inspired the entire camp at 17,200' to gear up and climb.
Our team really climbed well today, especially impressing me on how well everyone descended.
The weather forecast is not really inspiring, but we'll hang in here for a couple more days anyways to see if we can catch a break. The team is still smiling, and we had a great experience today. All it takes is one nice day to finish this thing off.
Good night,
RMI Guides Brent, Christina and JT
On The Map
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Good luck I’m praying for good weather for you! Be safe.
Team leader- team gramma neenee
Posted by: Ellen Smith Eaton on 10/9/2017 at 7:26 am
Yeah team! Good luck with weather, enjoy the challenge and have fun! Xtina and JT top notch! Special regards to Craig FLKHGN.
Posted by: Elias on 10/8/2017 at 6:06 pm
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