Entries By gloria roe
December 17, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
The Team enjoyed a calm night at
Lenas. When the moon is new to half-full the shooting stars are so plentiful that one person said, “it is as if the sky can’t hold all of them”. The Milky Way runs right down the valley skyline, the southern cross is unmistakable and the flashes of heat lightning over the horizon makes this night absolutely spectacular to sleep out of the tent.
We walked a little over 9 miles today and enjoyed a consistent breeze that kept us cool. From a casual glance the scenery doesn’t change to much and when taking a closer look one has never seen so many shades of brown, red and orange. The Team is doing well, acclimating to these higher altitudes and slowly adjusting to the dry desert air. Tonight we’ll dine on the second best chicken on the plant along with grilled vegetables and a bow tie pasta salad. You might be asking yourself where the best chicken is located at? For that you will have to head to Mexico with RMI to climb the Volcanoes and find out. Thanks for following along, we’ll check in from Plaza de Argentina tomorrow.
RMI Guide Mike King and Team
December 16, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,000'
The Team got a casual start to the morning with some breakfast and last minute packing and adjustments before the Mule drivers arrived to load our food and equipment for the next 2.5 weeks on
Aconcagua. The morning sun already felt hot was we waited for our shuttle to the national park. We got started around 11am with a stiff breeze that turned into a very windy day. While wind makes some parts of being outside difficult, it lowered the temperatures and wicked our sweat, this cooling effect made for a nice hike to camp.
The Team is getting out of the sun, some in tents and some have found some shade among the massive boulders that surround camp. We will enjoy the afternoon and then throw down on the best steak and assorted grilled meats the world has ever known. The asado at Las Lenas is legendary, it’s rich and bountiful smoke is infused into your clothing, bringing back memories of the communal dinner and meatmares often associated with this wonderful start to an expedition. We are happy, healthy and looking forward to what tomorrow will bring. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
December 15, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 9,000'
The Team arrived over the last few days with most bags in tow and we are now in Penitentes. We took the afternoon to pack and sort gear for the mules and our trek to
Aconcagua Base Camp. The warehouse is at the base of a defunct ski hill and looks like something out of the Argentine version of Hot tub time machine. We have a great local logistics company in Grajales Expeditions to help us get our gear through the high Andean desert valleys that we will hike through during the next three days.
The Team is doing well and excited to get walking tomorrow. We will be checking in each day, fingers crossed for clear weather and light winds. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
August 30, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,300'
The
Four Day Summit Climb August 27 - 30 were unable to reach the summit today due to high winds and deteriorating weather.
RMI Guides Mike King and Gloria Roe led their teams to the top of Disappointment Cleaver before making the decision to turn back as the winds were high and the cloud cap that had formed around the summit began to creep lower on the mountain. The teams returned to Camp Muir and will descend to Paradise this morning.
August 26, 2018
Posted by: Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Five Day Summit Climb August 22 - 26 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today, the final day of their program.
RMI Guide Gloria Roe led the team to the summit. As of 8:40 AM PT they were starting their descent from the crater rim. We look forward to seeing the team at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon for their team celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
RMI Guide Steve Gately called in from the Summit of Mt. Shuksan. The team reached the summit via the
Fisher Chimneys route. The team climb strong and efficiently making it possible climb the summit pyramid in 45 minutes. The weather was clear, but smoke from wildfires did fill the air. The team is on their descent and headed back to their high camp where they will spend the evening, tomorrow they will trek out returning to Glacier, WA.
Congratulations to today's team!
July 19, 2018
Posted by: Alan Davis, Alex Halliday, Andy Bond, Dave Hahn, Gloria Roe, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Jenny Konway, JT Schmitt, Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Guide News Guide Grant
At the end of this past April, eleven RMI guides came together in Washington to take the AMGA Alpine Skills Course, a prerequisite for the Alpine Guide Course, and a great continuing education opportunity for all of us to remain at the forefront of current guiding techniques. After a winter of far-flung adventures, Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, Alan Davis, and myself converged on Ashford. These courses are an important chance for us to refresh our skillset and learn some new tricks from our peers and the instructors from the AMGA.
Over the course of 5 days at Paradise in Mt. Rainier National Park, and on Mt. Erie, outside Anacortes, WA, we reviewed snow anchor construction and multi-pitch techniques for snowy environments, belaying and lowering techniques, short roping and short pitching, and anchor station management. Success in our guiding often lies in not only being able to utilize a number of techniques to manage risk, but in being able to maintain efficiency and timeliness at the same time. As we worked through different transitions, techniques, and scenarios with our peers, we all walked away with a few new tools in our bag and I'm convinced will be better guides for it.
This was a fantastic event for the eleven of us, and many thanks go out to RMI and the AMGA for putting it on. Congrats to Dave Hahn, Andy Bond, Mike King, Jenny Konway, Grayson Swingle, Hannah Smith, Gloria Roe, Nick Scott, JT Schmitt, and Alan Davis for completing the course!
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Alex Halliday
Monday, July 2, 2018 - 10:02 am PT
RMI Super Crew 6 is safe and sound back in Talkeetna!
I expected to be tired waking up early to head to Basecamp from our 11k Camp. I realized when you wake up at 11 pm it is either too early or too late to wake up tired! The tired came later.
We had a beautiful night/morning finishing the 10 miles of glacier that delivered us to the airstrip.
Denali gave us one more round of mini snow and wind before it finally gave us a moonrise and sunrise combo.
We arrived at the airstrip just in time for the planes to start flying. We got all of our gear de-rigged and ready to throw on the plane when we were informed that the plans for us had just been changed and the pilots would be picking us up at the upper airstrip a 1/4 mile up glacier. Since the planes were already in the air, we loaded sleds and packs up Beverly Hillbilly style and made the trip in record time just as the planes arrived to bring us back to civilization.
I really appreciate all of the hard work and great attitudes that the Super Crew brought to our adventure. Also, thank you for all of your blog comments and support. It made a huge difference knowing all of you had our backs!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6
On The Map
June 30, 2018
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Saturday, June 30, 2018 - 8:25 pm PT
The weather clearing did not happen until late last night, so we could not make a break to Basecamp. The clear weather did make for a great rest day at
11,000' camp. We slept in and enjoyed the sunshine while we gathered our strength for one long and final push to the the snowy airstrip.
The team is in great spirits and ready to get back to summer and away from days filled with snow!
Keep your fingers crossed for clear, flying kind of weather for us tomorrow!
RMI Guide Mike Haugen and Super Crew 6
On The Map
June 30, 2018
Posted by: Mike Haugen, Hannah McGowan, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Saturday June 30, 2018 12:54 AM PST
We are headed home... Slowly.
We woke up to pretty big winds and blowing snow at 17k camp this morning. Our desired early start turned into an afternoon departure when the weather finally gave in enough for us to descend.
We had a great climb down to 14k camp where we crossed paths with Dave Hahn and his crew. It was great to see them and we hope they get the same kind of summit day that we got to experience!
After picking up some cached gear and food from 14k, we made our way through some snowy weather to
11k camp. The Super Crew did a great job keeping it strong on this very long day! Even though the weather does not look to cooperate with us for a Basecamp dash tomorrow, we are in positioned to make it there when it is time to fly!
I think I can speak for the entire Super Crew 6 when I say we are sick of snow!
RMI Super Crew 6
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Hey Mike & Nick! I’m following along with you and wishing you and the team all the best with weather and strength. I had the 2nd best chicken with you last year. Looking forward to the best chicken in Mexico in March. Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 12/18/2018 at 3:29 am
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