Entries By geoff schellens

Hi all, Jim, Joy, and I had a great day of training today despite some very ominous looking clouds- the rain held off until about 4 pm. We did some good crampon review, self-arrest and team-arrest practice, as well as rope travel on glaciers and lastly climbing on rock. I think Jim and Joy enjoyed the rock climbing practice the most. Now we are in our tents again waiting for the rain to stop so we can hopefully get an anchor building lesson in before dinner and then bed. We will try to climb tomorrow if we get the weather for it; otherwise, we have Thursday to fall back on. We are all having a great time despite the rain, and spirits are still high. Jim and Joy are laughing right through the bad weather. That's all for now. Thanks for checking in on us. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Schellens and team check in

August 26, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Elevation: 6,200'

Hi all Joy, Jim, and I are enjoying a restful day here at the lower bivy camp (6,200') on Mt. Shuksan. We have accomplished some training in between showers, spirits are high and everyone is having a good time. Forced tent time is notorious on any long climb and such skills as "sport eating" and "competitive napping" are worth being good at, and we have practiced both today. We are hoping for better weather tomorrow for more training and to move camp higher on the mountain. Thanks to everyone for checking in. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Shuksan: Geoff Schellens & Team Begin Their Denali Prep Course

August 25, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens

Hi all, Had a great first day on the Mt. Shuksan 6-day Denali Prep course. Jim and Joy showed up prepared and ready to go. After a gear check, and another cup of coffee, we headed out of town to the Shannon Ridge trail head. We started up the trail with sun on our shoulders, laughing about the 30% chance of rain. After a couple hours hiking we left the trees behind and enjoyed great views of Mt. Baker. With these views, however, also came the end of our laughter as we noticed dark clouds approaching. Though we did get a light rain in the last 1/2 hour before getting to the low bivy camp site, we had a great day. Jim and Joy are in good spirits and staying dry in there tent, currently discussing dinner options. We'll see what the weather gods have in store for us tomorrow. RMI Guide Geoff Schellens

Mt. Rainier: Teams on the Summit August 22nd!

August 22, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Jake Beren

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

The Four Day Summit Climbs for August 19 - 22, 2013 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. RMI Guides Jake Beren and Geoff Schellens led the teams. Jake reported light winds from the Northwest with winds from the East earlier in the climb. Temperatures were estimated in the low 20s. The teams began their descent from the crater rim just after 7:30 am. They will return to Camp Muir for a short break and then continue to Paradise later this afternoon. We look forward to greeting the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

I’m so happy for you!! Congratulations on your journey. You’re amazing & an inspiration. Can’t wait to hear all about it. Enjoy every moment. YEAH!!!
Jennifer

Posted by: Jennifer on 8/23/2013 at 9:31 am

YEAH!!!! Beaming with excitement for you Heidi! Cant wait to hear about your adventure….and the crevasse crossings. XO. Safe travels down - I hope this accomplishment makes the last few miles to Paradise fly by!

Posted by: Dawn on 8/23/2013 at 9:25 am

North Cascades: Sahale and Shuksan Update

August 18, 2013

Posted by: Geoff Schellens, Mike Walter

The Sahale Mountain - Quien Sabe Glacier climb led by RMI Guide Geoff Schellens was unable to summit yesterday due to a combination of poor route conditions and poor weather. The team spent last night at their camp in Boston Basin and are hiking back to the trailhead this morning. The Mt. Shuksan - Fisher Chimneys team led by Mike Walter was also unable to summit. Mike reported wet, foggy conditions on the Fisher Chimneys route. The team team spent last night at their camp on the White Salmon Glacier and are making the four mile hike back to the trailhead this morning.

Mt. Rainier: August 12th Teams Reach Summit!

August 12, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier

Elevation: 14,410'

RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer and Geoff Schellens led the Four Day Summit Climb to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Pete reported blustery, clear, and cold conditions on the upper mountain. The teams will spend some time on top before beginning their descent to Camp Muir. We look forward to seeing the teams in Ashford this afternoon. Congratulations on a great climb!

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The guides at RMI really make the difference here! We were fortunate to have Pete and Chase who pushed us along the way and made sure that we were doing all the right things to make the summit! Thanks Guys!

Posted by: Anil on 8/14/2013 at 11:26 am

Congratulations gang! I hated to ‘bail-out’ but conditioning is the key to keeping a group on-schedule and I personally didn’t feel I had it yet. No worries… Next time! Thanks Pete for your most professional guidance…and to Chase for yours. Again thanks!... Congratulations…and ‘See you on the mountain!’ Cheers!

Posted by: Dave McLaughlin on 8/13/2013 at 12:28 pm

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team’s Expedition Comes to an End

July 11, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Wow! The close to expeditions happen so quickly. After spending two weeks working our way into position, and then waiting for our summit window, the descent flew by. After a day of waiting for winds to die to leave 17k, we left camp in much more moderate winds, but with moderate snowfall added to the mix. The group did a great job of working down the exposed sections of the West Buttress and down the fixed lines to 14k. We ran into Dave Hahn's group there, and traded stories while sorting and organizing our cache, and then continued on our way down to 11k for the evening. Once again the weather moved in, and we arrived at 11k with a chilly wind and snowfall. We set a hasty camp, dug our cache, and ate a hot dinner, before heading to bed. With snow in the forecast for the next day, and hoping to have some visibility, we opted to wake in the dawn hours of morning. The day turned out to be perfectly clear and calm, and we walked out under warming conditions, arriving at Basecamp just in time to see five K2 airplanes land to take out 24 climbers that had been waiting to leave for several days. We were next in line, but spent the day on standby, as K2 launched plane after plane to come get us, only to have to turn around due to clouds and obscured visibility in the passes that allow access to the Alaska Range. Finally, at 8 pm, we got word that the last flight for that evening had turned around and that we would spend another night on the glacier. We set a hasty camp, and cooked up a big dinner out of all of the tasty looking ingredients we could pull from our remaining meals. The next morning dawned clear, calm, and warm, but again, clouds hung in the passes, preventing planes from making it to us, until later in the afternoon. Finally, we had planes on the runway, but the pilots hurried us along, saying it wasn't going to last, and sure enough, as we headed out, pass after pass had shutdown with big white banks of clouds. As we rounded the corner of the Pica Glacier towards Pica Pass, we say the hole we needed and scooted through, with gray rock and white glaciers giving way suddenly to bright green forest and bog lands. Landing in Talkeetna is always a shock to the senses, as smells of grass, trees, pavement, jet fuel, and everything else come flooding in. We stepped off of the planes Tuesday evening to a warm, bright, scented scene, excited to be off the glacier, and gratitude to K2 for trying so hard to get us off. This trip brought together seven climbers who previously had never met to attempt and test themselves on the tallest peak in North America. The group did an amazing job quickly coalescing into a very functional team. We moved over the mountain efficiently (critical for the weather we would see in the second half of the trip), set camp quickly and solidly, and everyone supported everyone else. It was a pleasure for the three of us guides to work with the group, and their dedication showed as the conditions became more challenging, and everyone persevered despite. Thanks for tuning in and watching our adventure progress. Until next time, RMI Guides Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young, and team signing out!

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Descend to 11,000’

July 8, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Elevation: 11,200'

Sunday, July 7, 2013 We are down in the thick air of 11k feet! We woke this morning to some snowfall, and generally wintry conditions, but nothing that we couldn't deal with, and in short order we had camp packed and were rolling down the buttress. We made a short stop at 14 to visit with Dave Hahn's team ( who were gracious enough to invite is into their posh and make us hot water) and pick up our cache. Another few hours brought us to the 11k camp, where we made our beds for the night. We plan to wake early and continue our descent down the Kahiltna, with the aim of being at the airstrip by mid morning! With luck, there will be a break in the clouds, and we will see the red planes of K2 dropping in to bring us back to Talkeetna! We'll let you know how that goes, but for now, it's early to bed for us! RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

On The Map

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Hi team: My stepson is with Dave Hahn on the way up, and I’ve been reading your team’s posts also. Hope you got down, and got to fly out.

Posted by: Vicki on 7/10/2013 at 3:25 pm

Hola Guapo,
Viola just called me to tell me you were stuck” IN a glacier?” I HOPE NOT!....I’m hoping you meant : “stuck ON the glacier i.e.:mountain”. Did you forget our home number?
You have nothing scheduled at the office until the 22nd. Viola wanted me to let you know that. She said you would be home Thursday How is this possible?
Aywhoooo
Are you planing to take me away?...Far…....Far…...away? I hope so! If you can’t…make sure you pick up a box of Calgon at the supermercado before you come home! (Calgon take me way!!)
xxoo
Marion

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/9/2013 at 4:09 pm

Mt.McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Wait Out the Winds

July 7, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Elevation: 17,000'

Saturday, July 6, 2013 It was a beautiful though somewhat blustery summit day yesterday and everyone did great! We woke this morning with the intention of moving downhill, but as we prepared, several other groups returned reporting high winds along the buttress. After assessing, we decided that it would behoove us to rest the day and recover from yesterday, and move down tomorrow in lesser winds. So we'll be in touch tomorrow, hopefully from significantly lower on the mountain! All for now, RMI Guides Pete, Geoff, Robby, and team

On The Map

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Hello Guapo,
Everyone is asking me how long the trip down is, but I honestly don’t remember.
On the 9th it will be three weeks…..seems like forever.
Looking forward to hearing all about it…everyone is!
We are all proud! Im glad you are resting and recovering.
xxoo
Mairon ad Maya

Posted by: marion and maya on 7/7/2013 at 3:54 pm

Good morning, Tommy! I am grateful you are well and resting. I miss you, but I am happy ya’ll are using caution as you come down. More than anything, I can’t wait to hear your voice! There was lots of excitement on Facebook once everyone learned of your success reaching the top. I can’t wait for you to read the posts and the messages and “likes” of those following you. I posted a special message to you on Facebook from me and your supporters today. To say I am proud seems like an understatement because I am so much more. I am humbled by your courage, strengthened by your strength, and inspired by your passion. We have such an incredible future ahead. Thank you for showing me what is possible. I pray for an awesome day and safety coming down. My love and thoughts are with you going down as they were going up. I am so excited thinking how close you are to coming home! I love you!
Rhonda

Posted by: Rhonda Kitchen on 7/7/2013 at 8:21 am

Mt. McKinley: Van Deventer & Team Summit!

July 6, 2013

Posted by: Pete Van Deventer, Geoff Schellens, Robby Young

Elevation: 20,320'

Saturday, July 6th, 2013 1:39 a.m. PST Hi all. This is Pete, Geoff, Robby and team from Mt. McKinley. We are happy to report that we stood on top of North America today! Had our weather window show up and went for it. The whole team stood on top. It was a little bit blustery, but everybody did a great job. We were on top about 6:30 this evening. Now we are all back at 17K Camp safe and sound enjoying a Ramen dinner and getting ready to sack out before we start looking at moving down the mountain tomorrow. So hope everybody is well and glad to be able to give good news. Will talk later, bye. RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer calls in after summit success!

On The Map

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Derek, Congrats on your climb! I’m in North Pole AK and have been looking at the mountain from the fire. ICP is at elem. school stop by if possible.
Stay Safe,
Kim

Posted by: Kim Lemke on 7/10/2013 at 2:20 pm

Way to go!!! Can’t wait to hear the tales, Wy. What an awesome accomplishment. It’s almost like being able to say, “I walked on the moon!” :) Love you!

Posted by: Donna Evenson on 7/7/2013 at 9:01 pm