Entries By geoff schellens

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

June 21, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass. The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon's Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake's team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them. This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we've endured. Now it's time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

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Congratulations!! We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout. Enjoy the views!!!

Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 8:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 8:21 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Summit!

June 20, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 20,320'

June 20, 2014 - 8:56 pm PT Hi there, it's Tyler and team. We are standing on the summit of North America currently with our team. A little bit in the evening around 8 o'clock [Alaska time]. We are out of the wind on our side and it's sunny, beautiful, and everything is going well. We'll give you a shout and a little dispatch when we get back to safe and sound to our high camp. Hope everyone's well. We're doing great. Thanks for all of the support. Take care you guys. Talk to you soon. RMI Guide Tyler Jones

RMI Guide Tyler Jones call from the Mt. McKinley summit.

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Wow! Wow! Wow! How exciting and what an amazing accomplishment! I cannot imagine the thrill you must have felt at the summit! I will keep all in my prayers for the decent and Jen….I think you should write a book! Love…Karen

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 9:11 am

Wow! Wow! Wow! I can’t imagine the thrill that you experienced reaching the summit! I am so very proud of you…I think you should write a book!!! Be safe on the way down and I will keep all in my prayers! Much love….Karen

Posted by: Karen Pratte on 6/21/2014 at 9:00 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Sassy at Seventeen

June 20, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 17,200'

June 19, 2014 - 6:43 pm PT Today on our next to last day for up hill travel we got the window we needed! The no troubles crew had no trouble with our move, reaching our high camp at 17,200ft! An early departure from our 14K camp meant cold hands and feet as we approached the fixed lines, but by the time we reached our first break the sun had crested the ridge to our south. We basked in the most welcome UV, and continued up to the base of the fixed lines without feeling the bite of the -5F temperatures. We dispatched the fixed lines without incident, and were soon taking a break in a crisp little nook on the buttress proper. High, wispy clouds took the heat right out of the sun, and the constant winds reminded us of our arctic location. The last little bit of steep fixed line at Washburn's Thumb posed no issues, and we climbed into some of the most spectacular terrain of the West Buttress. Steep walls fell away on both sides as we climbed the last stretch into camp, and soon we had reclaimed a couple of tent platforms, set up our shelter and had stoves running for water. The constant burn is a reminder of our high location and is helping to drown out the stiff northeast breeze currently moving through camp. Tomorrow looks like it'll be our window for a summit attempt, provided the winds die down and the temperatures stay reasonable. We're psyched for the camaraderie of sharing camp with Jake Beren's team, and look forward to being on the route with them tomorrow. Wish us luck!! Cheers, RMI Guide Tyler Jones and The No Troubles Team

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Hi Dad! I really miss you. I have been having trouble sleeping, thinking of you on that cold mountain in an igloo, when I am here in my warm dogloo. I am very proud of you. Hope you are having an amazing adventure. Abby,Lulu and Goldie all say “ruff ruff ” to you !
Love, Boone

Posted by: Boone Stenderup on 6/20/2014 at 9:18 pm

Hi David J. and the great No Troubles Team! I was so excited today when I saw that you got to 17,000 ft.!!!!! I can’t wait to hear of your summit and see those awesome pictures! I doubt that you will be on the plane on Sunday. I will wait to hear from you when you get down. Love you and enjoy the rest of your adventure!! Pam

Posted by: Pam Johnson on 6/20/2014 at 8:33 pm

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Mt. McKinley: RMI Guide Eric Frank’s Final Thoughts

June 19, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 348'

June 19, 2014 - 9:34 am PT As the wheels of our bush plane touched down in Talkeetna last night, my mind breathed a bittersweet sigh of relief. On one hand, we were back in civilization with amazing conveniences, such as flush toilets and food with expiration dates, but the trip had not turned out the way I hoped in previous months of dreaming about it. After taxiing through the airfield, we unpacked the plane and I cataloged the 36 hours of frenzied activity leading up to that point. The weather throughout this trip was challenging. Aside from the first few days traveling up the lower Kahiltna Glacier, we battled ominous and unpredictable forecasts, and lots of marginal weather. The team did a great job of staying positive, always assuming that after the snow ended we would get our break. Day followed day, but the snow didn’t stop. It wasn’t a blizzard by any means, but just bad enough to not be able to move up high and make a summit attempt. Every morning we would get up and either watch snow fall, or see wind howling across the summit plateau. After nine nights at 14,200’ camp we were in a difficult position. We had managed to get a food cache up on the route, just below 16,000’, but the snow was presenting avalanche danger, the forecast hadn’t improved and the days were counting down. The group had a long discussion about schedules and desires, eventually coming to the conclusion that we would split ways. Part of the team would stay, join another RMI team for support and wait for better weather. The other half of us would pack up most of the gear and move downhill toward the runway. Family, friends and work obligations were calling our names. After a 15-hour, 14-mile walk through the night, we made it to the landing strip, caught a plane and found ourselves on terra firma Tuesday night around dinner time. As a guide, these trips are some of the most difficult to manage. The puzzle was one piece from coming together, but it wasn’t meant to be. The frustration was not solely ours. This has been a rough year in the Alaska Range weather-wise. When we flew onto the glacier, the summit success percentage was a depressingly low 16%. It has hardly risen since then. It would seem as though this season has been one of failure, but I prefer to view it differently. As a team, we did everything we could to be ready, the mountain simply said “no.” That doesn’t mean that we didn’t have an enjoyable trip with lots of good memories. Quite the contrary, we had several good weeks together filled with learning and bonding. I am reminded of the very applicable mountain phrase, “The summit is for the ego, but the journey is for the soul.” Final thoughts- To our three climbers- Andy, Jesse, and John. Thanks for arriving fit, ready to climb and with great senses of humor. You guys were a riot to hang out with in the cook tent, and on the rope. I have every confidence that given a decent weather window, you guys could tag the top. Unfortunately, not getting a chance to summit is sometimes part of big mountain climbing. You guys handled it with class and smiles. I hope our paths in the mountains cross many times in the future. To my fellow RMI guide, Geoff Schellens, it is always a pleasure to work with you. Good times, buddy. You are smart, patient and ridiculously strong at altitude. I felt lucky to be up there with you. To all the family, friends, armchair mountaineers and acquaintances who followed along in the last few weeks; thank you for the support. Your comments on the blog and daily positive vibes were the fuel that pushed us along up there. We thought of you in every decision, and with each picture we took. Until next time, keep warm and enjoy every moment of life. RMI Guide Eric Frank

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Eric, Thank you for taking such good care of ‘Patty’s little boy’. The RMI blog posts that you provided were beneficial to both excited and worried family members. We even had the reassurance of your Mom, now that is special! Also, thank you for allowing John to continue with Team Jones, No Troubles. I realize that restructuring teams in mid-expedition is not usual protocol and wanted to thank both you and Geoff for facilitating this. You allowed John to fulfill a dream! Best Regards, Kent Stenderup

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 11:19 am

Eric—— Thank you for the beautifully written “final thoughts”. It provided positive closure on the “Upper West Rib” expedition. I have great respect for your focus on safety and appreciate the decisions that you made. I am happy for my son , John, that he was able to transition over to Tyler’s group and continue his quest and eventual summit. I spoke with him last night after the team arrived in Talkeetna. He had nothing but praise and appreciation for your great leadership. I would like you to thank your Mom , again for me, for her words of encouragement. It really helped me! Thank you so very much!!!
Patty Stenderup
(PS—- I am still wondering where in Ohio you are from??? I am also a Buckeye.

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/23/2014 at 10:44 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Make Final Preparations

June 18, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 18, 2014 - 4:51pm PT Well, it's time to light this candle. We're getting ready to vacate the premises at 14K and head up for the thin air of 17K camp, after our extended stay here in advanced base camp. Yesterday we put the final pieces in place, as a group of guides took on an afternoon mission to move some group gear from a cache at 16,700 up to our future high camp. The afternoon was a perfect day for fast movement and by 6pm we were comfortably situated with the food, fuel, hardware and kit that we'll need to launch for the top. Team No Troubles gets to reap the benefit of yesterday's work, as the normally heavy group load is now up high, and folks will get to move with their bad selves and a little bit of personal gear. Woot! It's been a bit of an emotional roller coaster these last few days, wishing for good weather and then having forecasts dash our hopes. But this latest round of prognostication seems to give us the glimmer of goodness we need, opening the window just enough for us to make a tactical strike. Stoke and energy is at an all time high, and we'll channel that energy into upward movement as soon as we can in the morning. We really appreciate the love and support - keep it coming the next few days! Until tomorrow, RMI Guides Tyler, Garrett, Geoff and Team No Troubles

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Best of luck Dave J and the rest of the team! I’m so happy that you guys are on the way up! So excited for you all!

Posted by: Patti Templeton on 6/20/2014 at 6:23 am

So very excited for you Jen. Proud of your patience and courage. Hang tough until the end. Love you.

Posted by: Aunt Marie on 6/20/2014 at 3:57 am

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Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hope for a Good Weather Window

June 18, 2014

Posted by: Tyler Jones, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 18, 2014 - 12:24am PT Today we got some news that a window may come our way in the next few days! We woke with the sun warming us. Granola and coffee got our day started at 14k camp. We saw fairly good weather throughout the day, yet a forecast for another big pulse of heavy snow for the near hours! Our equipment, attitudes, and stoke for the future are high and our methods of getting there are well calculated. We wait another day hanging in there for the final push up the mountain. This season has not given many opportunities for a summit push but if we try and give it our whole effort we may just succeed! Tomorrow we will make our final preparation to stay or plan our departure Keep your eye on us and think high pressure weather. Cheers, RMI Guides Garrett, Tyler, Geoff and the No Troubles Team

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Climb strong, we are all praying for you!! Love you, Dave Johnson!

Posted by: Sandi on 6/20/2014 at 7:25 am

D.G. and team.
Wishing you luck and a good weather window. Love you little brother, Climb strong!

Posted by: Lori Bartek on 6/18/2014 at 4:01 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Weathers Another Day

June 16, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 15, 2014 - 11:26 pm PT We awoke this morning to blue skies and our excitement spiked. Unfortunately it quickly became apparent that this was only a trap door, the forecast is still looking poor for the next few days. We decided to stay put here at 14 camp, and by early afternoon the clouds and snow were back. The team is beginning to become discouraged and there is talk of heading down hill without a better weather forecast. That's all for now. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the McKinley Upper West Rib Team

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However this all plays out, we know you have done everything under your control and to the best of your abilities. Hopefully Mother Nature will have a change of heart and send some weather improvements and conditions in your favor. Keep the faith and stay strong.

Posted by: Rita and BruceWightman on 6/17/2014 at 6:06 pm

Hey guys sorry to hear that.
Although this fickle weather, I hope you have enjoyed your time. Though you haven’t been able to continue up the slope, don’t be disappointed. After all, it isn’t your fault. At least you have explored the unknown and have met your challenge. Do only what’s safe, you’re in our thoughts and prayers.

Love you Jesse

Posted by: L. Rosales on 6/16/2014 at 9:18 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Takes Another Snowy Rest Day

June 15, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 14, 2014 - 10:55 pm PT Well another day has come and gone, but Denali refuses to give us a decent weather window to climb.The team is all prepped to go, and we have had numerous conversations that will improve our efficiency and safety up high. At this point we are just keeping our fingers crossed and watching both the forecast and morning skies to decide when we will move upward. Thanks for following along. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

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Eric——-I read your guide BIO , and saw that your were raised in Ohio. Being a Buckeye myself, I was wondering where you grew up? ( this is from John’s Mom)

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/15/2014 at 9:23 pm

John- Your grandfather and Uncle Bruce send greetings your way, knowing that your 3P’s (preparation, patience and perseverance) will eventually pay off. We are all following these postings, so a big thank you to your fellow team members for keeping us informed.

Posted by: Rita and BruceWightman on 6/15/2014 at 3:34 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 13, 2014 - 6:45 pm PT After caching food and gear on the ridge yesterday, we are back at our 14k camp waiting for a weather window to move up. The forecast is showing an improving trend in the next few days. For now we are waiting, passing the time by throwing the football around, playing ice axe horseshoes, and sport eating. We are, of course, anxious for the weather to improve, but spirits are high and the rest is only making us stronger. Well, that's all for now, we are keeping our fingers crossed for good weather. Thanks for following our progress. RMI Guides Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens and the UWR team

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I shall be in Arvin ,California on Monday ,June 16th….ELEVATION 449. Someone in this family has to stay grounded and out of the clouds…...MOM….always the voice of reason!
I will stay close to my phone so I don’t miss any important calls.

Happy Fathers Day to all of you Dads out there, following the expedition!!!!!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 6:27 pm

Hey John and UWR Team,

Monday, June 16, around noon, I should be at 14,505’ on Mt. Whitney for my annual trek. You may be on your summit push near that time, 20,237’. The sum is 34,742 feet. I will wave towards you! That is cruising altitude for most airliners. What a special coincidence, that is the day the Forest Service gave me my permit. Your Mother should have quite the day. Good luck to the UWR Team.

Love, Dad

Posted by: Kent Stenderup on 6/14/2014 at 4:32 pm

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Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

June 13, 2014

Posted by: Eric Frank, Geoff Schellens

Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mt. McKinley

Elevation: 14,200'

June 12, 2014 10:25pm PT After sitting watching the wind blow furiously for two days, we finally got the break we needed to climb up to the Rib and cache some gear. The trail breaking was deep, often between mid-calf and mid-thigh and required us to swap guides breaking trail every stretch. Conditions on the Rib itself were great. The wind had swept away most of the powder, leaving perfect Styrofoam snow- an ideal surface for cramponning. Eventually we found a cache location around 15,800'. The weather above us was windy and cold, but we were able to bury the gear and head downhill without getting punished by the weather. As we tuck into bed, the team has a content feeling that everything is in order and all we need is suitable weather to push for the summit. Thanks to everyone who has followed our progress. Much love and warm thoughts. RMI Guide Eric Frank and the UWR team

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That’s a lot of bagels. John, I told you that you would miss the Kings winning the Stanley Cup! It was a nail biter. Now I can fully concentrate on your team’s achievements. I’m very excited by your march to the top and am with you every step of the way. Everyone, continue to have fun and stay strong. Tante

Posted by: Lisa Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:46 pm

The photo of “stashin’ the cache” gives new meaning to the old fashioned term “icebox”!!!
I am loving the photos that you guys are sending us. They are really giving us a visual of all that you are experiencing. Although, the temperatures up there are beyond my comprehension! Stay strong, stay safe!!! Lots of love to all of you!!!

Posted by: Patty Stenderup on 6/13/2014 at 9:10 pm

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Entries By geoff schellens

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Summit!

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Sitting Sassy at Seventeen

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: RMI Guide Eric Frank’s Final Thoughts

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Make Final Preparations

Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team Hope for a Good Weather Window

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Weathers Another Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Takes Another Snowy Rest Day

On The Map

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Waits for a Weather Window

Mt. McKinley: Upper West Rib Team Climb and Cache

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