Entries By eric frank
After meeting up for a phenomenal opening dinner of sushi and ceviche in Lima last night, the Artesonraju-Frank team was back up early this morning. We caught a 5:30 a.m. cab to the Lima airport, and had anticipated being in Huaraz for breakfast- a quick one hour flight away. Instead, our carrier LC Peru, had oversold our flight and despite having confirmed reservations we were told there were not any seats available for us. A terse hour of back and forth conversation with the ticket agent about finding additional seats for us, and the exact definition of of the phrase "confirmed reservation" yielded nothing. Eventually we gave in and did the only thing we could in such a situation - took a series deep breaths, bought a couple cups of burnt airport coffee and started looking for other options to cover the 300 miles to Huaraz.
Three cab rides, four bus stops and ten hours later, were finally here in Huaraz only slightly worse for the wear. In many ways, developing world travel is a lot like the mountains. Things are always changing and if you wanna succeed, you have to stay on your toes! Thanks for following along. We be out of the city, and into the mountains in a couple days, headed for a ultimate objective- Artesonraju!
RMI Guide Eric Frank and the Arteson Crew
This is your ESS-Peru team checking in from our hotel in Huaraz. We awoke early this morning to yet another amazing breakfast of scrambled eggs, garlic toast, and espresso from our cooks Emilio and Franklin. It proved to be just what we needed after a long day climbing to almost 19,000' yesterday, to make the descent from Pisco Base Camp to the trailhead to catch our bus back to civilization. We're spending the afternoon here in the hotel cleaning up and prepping for a celebratory dinner, to relive the amazing adventure we've had over the past two weeks in the Cordillera Blanca. It's been an incredible journey in arguably one of the most beautiful mountain ranges in the world. Tomorrow, we begin the drive back towards the ocean, and onto planes in Lima, back to our loved ones in the States. Until then, buenos noches.
RMI Guides Robby Young, Eric Frank, Edwin, and your ESS-Peru Team
July 22, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 18,871'
Greetings, RMI blog followers! This is your ESS-Peru team standing on the top of Pisco Oeste at 18,871ft. Beautiful day as always in the Cordillera Blanca. Barely any wind and we are standing in the sun. We're all super psyched to get up this high in the culmination of our trip. Our crew has a very important message for those folks at home. [Team cheers!] We're going to enjoy the sunshine on the top for a bit more and then start walking down, then our journey home begins. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Robby Young
RMI Guide Robby Young calls in the Pisco Oeste summit!
July 21, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 16,200'
Greetings all! This is the Peru Expedition Skills Seminar team. We are currently sitting at high camp, Moraine Camp, on our last objective of our trip, Pisco Oeste. We're sitting here at 16,200 feet or so and just enjoyed a nice dinner and a beautiful sunset over some of the highest peaks here in the Cordillera Blanca of Peru. And we're now in bed getting ready for a climb, which we will wake up for in a couple hours to go to the summit of Pisco Oeste at 18,741 feet. The weather here is beautiful so we're looking forward to a good day of climbing tomorrow, and we will check in once we get down back to base camp sometime tomorrow afternoon or evening. We will talk to you then. Ciao.
RMI Guide Robby Young
RMI Guide Robby Young checks in from Moraine Camp on Pisco Oeste.
July 20, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 15,400'
Greetings loyal RMI Blog Followers,
Today, our team had the privilege of driving up the Quebrada Llanganuco. It is surely one of the most beautiful places in the world. Laguna (Lake) Llanganuco is the centerpiece, a massive alpine lake right along the road, with the most vibrant turquoise color any of our team members have ever seen. From one of the switchbacks in the road, we met our donkeys and their drivers, and made quick moves up to 15,400' to Pisco Base Camp. From here, the highest peaks of the cordillera are on display, including Huascaran, Chopicalqui, Chacraaju, the Huandoy massif, and our objective, Pisco Oeste. Tonight's dinner of Chifa (Peruvian Chinese dish) nourished our bodies as we prepare for a move to our 16,200' high camp tomorrow. Stay tuned for more! Our highest summit attempt of the trip is only 2 days away!
Todo es tranquilo. Buenos Noches,
RMI Guides Robby Young, Eric Frank, and your Peru Seminar Crew
PS - Spanish climbing word of the day is "guantes" which means gloves.
July 19, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
Greetings from Huaraz!
The ESS-Peru team is back in the bustling city of Huaraz after a wonderful week in the Ishinca Valley. Perfect climbing weather allowed for successful summits of both Nevada Ishinca (18,143') and Urus Este (17,600'). After a wonderful breakfast of eggs and bacon (at 14,200'!), we made quick work of our descent out of the valley this morning. Town life brought more great eating, shopping, and resting here at the Hotel Andino, all in preparation for our next objective, Pisco Oeste. Tomorrow morning we depart Huaraz for the stunning Quebrada Llanganuco (Llanganuco Valley) and make our move to Pisco Base Camp at 15,400'. Our well acclimatized bodies should take to this altitude well as we set our sights on Pisco, our highest objective of the trip at 18,741'. We'll check in again tomorrow evening from our perch in the Llanganuco. For now, enjoy the "best of" from Robby and Eric's cellphone photo galleries.
Buenos Noches,
RMI Guides Robby Young, Eric Frank, and the ESS-Peru Team
P.S. The Spanish climbing term of the day is "tocino", which means bacon.
July 18, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 17,600'
Greetings loyal RMI blog followers! This is your Expedition Skills Seminar - Peru team calling from the summit of Nevado Urus at 17,600 feet. It's a sunny day as usual in the Cordillera Blanca range of Peru; we are so spoiled down here with perfect weather. We're going to enjoy the sunshine with views of the beautiful turquoise lakes and get down safely, hopefully in a fast order of time and enjoy some home cooked meals. That's all for now. Ciao!
RMI Guides Robby Young, Eric Frank, and team
RMI Guide Robby Young calls from the summit of Nevado Urus.
July 17, 2016
Posted by: Eric Frank, Robby Young
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,400'
Hello again from the Ishinca Valley. The Peru Seminar team is in the midst of an afternoon siesta as we recover from our exertion on Ishinca yesterday, and prepare for a climb on Urus tomorrow. Despite sleeping in and having a lazy breakfast this morning, we managed to spend a few hours training on crevasse rescue and snow anchor construction.
All in all the team is doing quite well. We have battled sporadic GI challenges and a bit of discomfort from altitude, but the team is taking care of themselves and their perseverance is making all the difference. Group dinners are funny and full of lively conversation. As guides it is incredible to watch a team come together and be a strong functional unit. Now that we are a week into the program, it seems like we are firing on all cylinders and ready to take on any challenges that present themselves on the next two peaks.
All for now,
RMI Guides Eric Frank, Robby Young and the Peru Seminar team
July 16, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 18,143'
Greetings! Buenos dias from the summit of Nevado Ishinca, 18,143 feet. The RMI Peru Seminar team is on top right now. We have a beautiful day, beautiful weather. Not a better day of climbing in the Cordillera Blanca Range of Peru. The team wants to say hi. [Cheers from the background.] The team is on their descent and will check in later.
RMI Guide Robby Young
RMI Guide Robby Young calls from the Ishinca summit!
July 16, 2016
Posted by: Robby Young, Eric Frank
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,400'
After falling asleep to a gentle rain last night, our team woke up to to star filled skies. The clouds had dropped a few inches of snow up high and the glaciers suspended above camp glistened in the light of the moon. After a hasty 5:30am breakfast we shouldered our packs and climbed uphill three hours to the base of the Ishinca Glacier. The new snow made the hard glacial ice a bit more forgiving, and we used the terrain to train on basic mountaineering techniques such as rope travel, crampon technique and ice axe arrest. After taking a break for lunch and admiring our beautiful surroundings, we got into more advanced techniques like ice screw placement and V-thread anchors.
Tonight was the current group favorite dinner- Lomo Saltado, a Peruvian mix with beef, french fries, rice and tomatoes. Delicious!
RMI Guides Robby Young and Eric Frank
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Anxious to hear about the climbs..my daughter, Ilene Carpenter, is in the group. Hope all is well and safe.
Posted by: joan locker on 7/17/2016 at 9:50 am
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