Entries By elias de andres martos
June 30, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 17,880'
Good evening from
Alpamayo High Camp. We are sad to report that the SW face is not in safe condition to be climbed, and we're not going to aim any higher. Everyone did a great job today and pushed through the upper glacier that is steep as usual, but we will descend tomorrow to Base Camp.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
June 29, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 16,240'
Friday, June 29, 2018 - 5:00 PM PT
Good evening!
Alpamayo crew reporting from Camp 1, a.k.a. moraine camp. We just had a nice dinner with the most beautiful alpenglow so far on this trip. Gaining elevation today to our camp was an easy task, and everyone did a great job managing the rocky and slabby terrain carved by the glacier that drops from the Alpamayo-Quitaraju Col. We ditched 20 minutes from our carry day... and it's only a 2h journey! That's a big chunk and these climbers are keeping these guides psyched. We're ready to move to high camp tomorrow, should everyone have a good night tonight... So wish us sweet dreams, and stay tuned!
RMI Guide
ElÃas de Andres Martos and team.
June 28, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,270'
Good evening from
Alpamayo Base Camp. We had a good rest day, where we ate, slept and socialized, all while getting excited for tomorrow's move to Camp 1. We're also excited to see many teams come down, and know it's not going to be too crowded up high... Fingers crossed!
Stay tuned for updates on our progress up high.
RMI Guide
ElÃas de Andres Martos and team.
June 27, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,270'
Good evening from "infinite skies land"!
It is quite amazing to enjoy the deepness of the night we're having right now. The clouds have moved away and moon lit ridges reign above us, giving us a sense of smallness amongst these Andean fluted snow walls. All of it wouldn't be as overwhelmingly haunting, if it wasn't because of the task we have in store for us. But having carried to our first camp today, and witnessed those very walls get smaller with our progress uphill, makes us feel that the power of the mountains is on our side. And so, we had a great day reaching the 5,000m mark and dropping half of the equipment we'll use to venture even higher, and eventually, to climb to the top.
It's now been four days of activity, and we're ready to go to bed and welcome a well earned rest day at dawn. Although, it is worth mentioning that, we sure could keep going as there is no challenge that can't be fueled by our cook Emilio's food; tonight, meat and carrot soup, followed by breaded chicken breast filled with cheese and ham, accompanied by french fries... Yes, we're here right now climbing
Alpamayo!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 26, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 14,270'
Hello from
Alpamayo Base Camp. We finished our approach to the mountain on an almost rainy day, but the clouds decided to respect us, as now, right before dinner, skies are open and we're enjoying a nice evening.
Alpamayo, Quiraraju, Paron,
Artesonraju... only a few of these "Andean Giants" that we're able to contemplate from our tents. We're about to enjoy another dinner from our cook Emilio; vegetable soup from his very own garden as first course, and it seems that grilled fresh trout with natural mashed potato and rice with cilantro are on the menu... Yep, living large here!
More to come tomorrow.
Cheers,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
June 25, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 12,467'
Good evening from Icchi Coccha "Small Lake", where we have pitched camp for the night on our way to
base camp, at 3800m. We had a very pleasant day, perhaps the best this guide remembers, as it is usually a pretty hot day climbing up the valley in the lower elevations. But the cloud cover provided the best temps to do the hike, so we're happy we didn't bake! We shared the trail with a few dogs, cows and of course, our donkeys. But the highlight was the curious fox that ventured into our camp. We're now about to enjoy the first of our meals from our cook, Emilo, in our dining tent. That's all for now, stay tuned for more!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
June 24, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
Sunday, June 24, 2018 - 9:13 PM PT
Good evening from Huaraz!
It never gets old... our standard acclimatization hike (in picture here) to Churup Lake at 4,400m is a half day endeavor for virtually every
Alpamayo Expedition in the last five years. A couple thousand feet of elevation gain to an incredible glacial lake below a radical looking peak baring the same name, provided for us the perfect exercise on after all the travels.
A speedy descent brought us to our private van, and we were shuttled to Peruvian delicacies in downtown, before retreating back to the hotel to pack for tomorrow's hike in to the Santa Cruz Valley and start our approach to Alpamayo Base Camp.
The real adventure is about to start! Everyone is excited and motivated. Next post will be from the woods... stay tuned!!!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
June 24, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Elevation: 10,000'
Saturday, June 23, 2018 - 9:47 pm PT
Greetings from Huaraz! We're happy to announce the start of RMI's fifth season in Peru with our first day of the
Alpamayo Expedition. Everyone arrived in Lima yesterday, and we did the long drive into the Andes today. The team arrived at our hotel in time to relax a bit after the long hours on the bus, and we enjoyed a nice dinner at Hotel Andino. Stay tuned for updates on our progress!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Friday, June 15, 2018 - 6:00 PM PT
And it is a wrap up!
The
Alaska Alpine Climbing program came to an end. After 7 days of straight climbing with no rest or weather days, we flew out on time to beat the bad weather without risking getting stuck on the glacier. All in all, success all around! A changing weather morning made us pack up quick and the word was out from our pilots at K2 Aviation that heavy winds might delay our pick up; other areas were shut down for flying! In a record time we dismantled our camp and we were pulling our last load into the Pika Glacier Runway as the plane showed above us. A bumpy ride to Talkeetna brought us to the land of beer and pizza (and showers!) and after unpacking and cleaning our gear, the team enjoyed a nice meal as we shared the best moments of the trip. We already made it to Anchorage, and everyone is off to home. As for the guides, we're already looking forward to our next expedition in 2019!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andrés Martos
On The Map
Thursday, June 14, 2018 - 12:04 AM PT
Good evening again from the little Swiss! Another day, another summit! Or summits I should say... the group split and the 2 rope teams headed in opposite directions, towards the east and west ends of the upper
Pika Glacier. On one side, a team surmounted the Munchkin. On the other, the South Face of the Middle Troll, a towering rock formation that, with its splitter granite cracks and balancing boulders, provides delicate yet rewarding climbing and the most radical of the views. The weather has been perfect, and we're now going to bed tired, but accomplished and with a full stomach after a quite good pesto pasta dinner!
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & Chase Nelson
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Hello Erik, Sorry to read that the rest of the climb was not safe, but safety is paramount. Hope you have a good trip down. We’ll be watching for the update later today.
Posted by: Tim and Carol Smith on 7/1/2018 at 1:36 pm
Aw, darn. Really sorry to hear that, but no doubt it was the right thing to do. Thanks ElÃas for keeping everyone safe.
Posted by: Art Muir on 7/1/2018 at 6:50 am
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