Entries By elias de andres martos
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Ben Liken
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Awesome climb, Robert. We are in awe of you! Can’t wait to hear all about it. Love mom& ron
Posted by: Mom & ron on 5/22/2016 at 6:31 am
Way to go. I am so happy you all made it back safe. I bet it was crazy. I can’t wait to hear all about it. You are all incredible!!!
Posted by: Dean Peyerson on 5/21/2016 at 6:22 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, JM Gorum, Caleb Ladue, Nick Hunt, Paul Maier, Steve Gately
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations, Kaitlyn!! Repping for team A! So proud of you ... let’s go again!
Posted by: Steve on 5/17/2016 at 5:45 am
Way to go, McLaughlin brothers. Your Vermont cousins are so proud! Yahooo!
Posted by: The Vermont Bangos on 5/16/2016 at 6:04 pm
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 13,000'
Way to go Jason!
Posted by: Brian on 4/15/2016 at 8:22 am
I’m so proud of you JoshuaBlu! I can’t wait to hear all about this trip!
Posted by: Melinda on 4/15/2016 at 7:54 am
Posted by: Brent Okita, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
WoW !!!! What an amazing landscape !!!! Hope you’ll be able to climb up to the summit :)
Posted by: Marika, Philipe, Rémy & Mayla on 4/13/2016 at 3:23 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches
We headed to the Kyajo Dranka, a valley between the renowned Cholatse Peak and the Rolwaling mountains. We did not see a single soul, save our team of porters, from the moment we left the standard trail between Namche and the presumed Base Camp around 14,400ft. At that point, we waved goodbye to them as well, pitched a tent and spent the night; the next morning we’d start our one-push climb of this remote peak. While we were focused on attempting this peak in alpine style (only the stuff we could carry in our packs, climbing straight up without doing carries or fixing any of the route), it turned out that the discoveries of beauty along the 4-day push to the summit were the true reward. We did climb an incredible, steep ridgeline guarded by a few technical pitches of rock and mixed terrain, but the hanging glacial lakes, the vertical rock walls protecting the access to the valleys, and the solitude we encountered were more captivating than our success in style and technique.
With this objective tackled, we could have headed home satisfied with our climbing ambitions; however, we had laid eyes on another peak on previous expeditions, often recognized as the most beautiful peak in the Khumbu: Ama Dablam (“The Mother’s Jewel Box”), a 22,349-ft tower of rock, snow, and ice. Perfectly acclimatized now, we were charged up to try and move as quickly as we could. With a few days rest in Namche Bazaar, we had 2 days to make it to BC. Once there, we corroborated the weather forecast, and with no extra time to hang out, we had to start climbing and use the following 3 days to go up.
Steep and involved from just a few hours out of Base Camp, the route only seems to be more impenetrable as you move up it. Making it to C1 proved to be a heads-up as to why this mountain is only successfully summited by less than 25% of the people who try it. Focusing on our plan, we settled in for the night, knowing the most difficult terrain lay ahead. An early start the next morning was mandatory; getting stuffed along the fixed terrain near the Yellow Tower could be a drag, and arriving there with no space to pitch a tent, a nightmare. Despite being the first party to arrive at this iconic landmark, with only 6 or 7 feasible tent spots, it was disheartening to find other teams had already claimed the prime real estate during previous carries. Luckily our minimalist style had us travelling with a small Bibler tent, which we made fit on the only remaining spindrift, a good portion of which was sticking out over the almost 5,000' cliff of the SW face.
Clearly we had no choice but to spend the least amount of time possible there. We decided to forego Camp 3 and attempt the summit that very night, from Camp 2. A 9pm wake-up was delayed by high winds, but by 11:45pm, we were on the move. Ascending through mixed terrain (nearly vertical snow slopes and incredibly exposed rock traverses) proved to be demanding and involved. Fixed lines protected the exposed terrain which allowed us to push the pace to stay on schedule, moving as quickly as we could. By 4am we reached Camp 3 to the amazed, yet encouraging eyes of the team that, at that time, was preparing to depart.
“Where are you coming from?” asked one climber.
“Camp 2,” Elías responded.
“You continuing up?”
“Yes!”
At that point, the high winds that had delayed our departure came back with a vengeance, and the most bitterly cold temps we’ve ever experienced convinced me to stay put, keep all my fingers and toes, and allow Elías to have a quick crack at the summit. (It would only be “a few hours.”)
Benefitting from the ultimate gesture of Sherpa hospitality, I was welcomed into a small frosty tent, where 5 local climbing guides were sipping their last cup of warm milk and eating handfuls of champa (roasted barley grits) before departing for their summit bid. There was something a bit surreal about being handed a hot beverage from strangers in puffy down suits and 8,000-m boots at 4AM and dozing off to the comforting aroma of incense burning over a tiny camp stove.
Just as the sun hit the tent, a voice woke me up from my slumber. Elías was back from the summit, urging me to grab gear and continue down; accomplished but tired, he was eager to return to the comforts of lower elevations. An uneventful but quick descent took us to Camp 2, with enough time to continue farther down. After a 16 hour day, Elías had gone from Camp 2 to the summit (foregoing C3) and all the way down to C1. Perhaps it was the promise of chocolate cake and a real bed that kept us speeding along towards the finish line! Three days later, we reached the Lukla airstrip, where the adventures had begun 5 weeks before.
Following the obligatory “duffle shuffle” day back in Kathmandu, we arranged to spend our last day in Nepal volunteering with TRIFC, an NGO based in Bellevue, WA. This group focuses on children with disabilities. We gathered with an eager group of blind children and adults at the climbing gym in the central tourist district of Thamel. The morning was filled with encouraging cheers, lighthearted giggles, and proud smiles, as we coached our excited athletes up and down the wall. After a pleasant group meal, in which many of our assumptions about physical limits were restructured, we were shuttled to a home and rehab center for physically impaired youth.
There were, no doubt, plenty of signs of adversity: cracks in the walls from the recent earthquakes, transportation complications, and the social stigma and financial struggles that families with disabled children face in Nepal. Yet spirits were high as we witnessed how well these children had learned to cope despite the odds being against them. Prosthetic limbs and other physical deformities didn’t keep any of these youngsters from going to school, playing their favorite sports, doing household chores, and even hosting a dance performance for us!
We will strive to hold these memories close the next time we find ourselves wallowing in self-pity high on a frozen mountain. We are so fortunate to be able to push our bodies to their limit and venture into the serenity of remote Himalayan regions – and to do so among people who welcome visitors with open hearts and doors.
_____
Bridget Schletty and Elias de Andres Martos are a husband and wife climbing team. Elias guides worldwide from the Himalaya to Peru for RMI Expeditions, and Bridget spends the summers helping out climbers in the front office of RMI. This was their fourth expedition to the Himalaya, with previous expeditions including a successful climb of Shishapangma. Elias will be guiding an expedition to Kyajo Ri this fall! They call Ridgeway, CO home when they aren't traveling the world.
Enjoyed this post immensely. Had read Lonnie’s account previously, so your perspective added great detail.
Thanks!!
Posted by: Dennis Mashue on 4/4/2016 at 8:02 am
Great read. Loved it. As I know your and Elias’s climbing attitude, reading this was all the more enjoyable.
Posted by: Kenzie Campbell on 4/2/2016 at 7:36 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:30 am
Congratulations guys what a team effort to get to the summit. Training right now for my summit bid either in 2016 or in 2017.
Posted by: Kevin Stone on 9/18/2015 at 7:29 am
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations to Elizabeth and her BCM climbing partners - thrilled that you were able to summit and that you had such great weather! Thanks to your RMI guide for keeping you safe. Have a joyful decent.
Mom and Dad
Posted by: Tom Williams on 8/23/2015 at 8:49 am
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Kel Rossiter
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
Congratulations on summititing Mt. rainier this am. I knew you could do it.
Posted by: Jeanette on 8/7/2015 at 12:41 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Win Whittaker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
No matter where your highpoint was this morning, congratulations on your great effort and teamwork!!!
Posted by: Frank Yandrasits on 8/2/2015 at 9:09 am
To the Zmolek men:
Have a safe and fun climb. Love to you both. Judy, Natasha and Desmond
Posted by: Judy Zmolek on 5/27/2016 at 3:49 pm
عيد ميلاد سعي Sandra
Posted by: Harab Mukabik on 5/27/2016 at 8:57 am
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