Entries By elias de andres martos
November 17, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 14,993'
Hello from
Ama Dablam Base Camp!
Are you unsuccessful when you don't reach the summit of one of your objectives?
Well, I think that if you have carefully prepared for it and put yourself in the best position for it, despite little odds in our favor according to the forecast, and you make the decision to head down because the one thing you can't control is totally out of control, then yes, you're successful.
It was windy when we arrived at our High Camp, it was windy throughout our short stay, and it was like a freight train when it was time to go. There's no way we could fight on the steep, cold and dangerous slopes of Ama's southeast ridge what "Eolus" had in store for us. So the only thing we could do, knowing that we had waited until the very last day, was to be smart and head down. Undefeated, because in the mountains what counts is telling the story. But sure disappointed to not to have been able to climb just a bit more.
But oh well, we're now back to the safety of our lodge at Base Camp, and we'll stay our descent tomorrow, eager for thicker air and why not, to start closing up our Himalayan adventure.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
November 16, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 19,900'
Namaste from
Ama Dablam Camp 2,
We climbed to the famous Yellow Tower, surmounting the most technical terrain that this route presents. We dragged our feet leaving Camp 1 as to get bathed by the sun a little bit. Then we crossed with ease the beautiful yet incredibly exposed crest with several hundreds of feet to drop on either side, contemplating how the now distant Base Camp became smaller and smaller down in the valley.
The winds are strong here, but the sun shines and it is comfortable inside the tents. Air feels thin, but our acclimatization process has been productive. We're going to hope for the best with the winds and we will put up a good fight, smart though, but we won't know until we get higher later tomorrow morning.
We sure hope to make a phone call from the summit!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
November 15, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 18,000'
Hello! We are at C1. A long day brought us here under clear skies. We're alone here and we presume it will be the same at C2 when we arrive later today.
Not much to report other than we had an incredible sunset last night, perched here on
Ama Dablam's ridge. Let's keep hoping for the winds to die in the next day or two!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
November 14, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 14,993'
Hello!
And we are going up! After another rest day at
Ama Dablam Base Camp, all is packed and ready and we are starting our summit bid.
We know that the winds are forecasted to be strong, so it is going to be a toss up. But we continue to see blue skies every day, so we're going to do what's common in these cases, "prepare for the worst and hope for the best."
Stay tuned for our progress up high!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
November 13, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 14,993'
Hello again.
After a rest day yesterday at
Ama Dablam Base Camp, where we practiced some of the rope techniques we'll implement on our ascent, today we're in a holding pattern for the weather.
Our camps are stocked thanks to the help of our Sherpa, and we're ready to go when the time is right. In the meantime, we continue to execute expedition life; patience at it's best.
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
November 11, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 14,993'
We made it to
Ama Dablam Base Camp!
Right on time for lunch, the team pulled into the little hut (we're avoiding tents at the base of the mountain) and we have been just resting, hydrating and eating.
We're motivated as acclimatization seems to be doing its job, and we're expectant to see what the weather brings in. In the mean time, tomorrow we'll be on schedule resting and practicing our ascending techniques here at Base Camp, and allowing our bodies to "do their thing in getting themselves ready"
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Hello!
We have started our progress towards
Ama Dablam, and we left Khumjung this morning under an unusual layer of fog that made our walk a bit chilly and damp.
Our arrival to Debuche, half way between Khumjung and Ama Dablam Base Camp, was greeted with the best soups so far this trip, and we are enjoying the afternoon staying warm inside our lodge, named Rivendell.
Nothing more to report from the trails today, other than we have started to feel the home stretch of our journey towards Ama Dablam; early bed tonight and tomorrow base camp!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Hello from Khumjung.
We did retraced our steps from the mountain and we are back in this guide's favorite Sherpa village of the Khumbu. We're going to earn some good rest before starting our approach to
Ama Dablam.
The climb of Kyajo Ri remains now as an incredible challenge that we overcame with determination, and we know that while an objective worth a trip to the Himalaya on its own, it has been the best preparation for Ama Dablam.
Now it's time to sleep, eat & repeat!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
November 7, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 20,295'
Greetings from
Kyajo Ri Camp 1. What a day we had!!! We departed with headlamps and returned with headlamps... Having to forego our move to Camp 2 yesterday due to the high winds, delivered not only a beautiful day today, but a marathon one. Regardless, we wanted to reach the elevation of Kyajo's summit to better prepare for Ama Dablam. So we did!
Now everyone is very tired, and we look forward to some rest coming up.
Regards,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
November 6, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 17,175'
Hello from Kyajo Ri Camp 1,
All is good here, except that we had an extraordinarily windy day, preventing us from moving up to
Camp 2. We did, however, take some of our gear to the base of the gullie that provides access to it, as we plan on attempting the summit from here.
The sun is shining and the spirits are high! We are going to bed early, so cheer for us on our push to summit our first objective here.
Regards,
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
Go Dad! Can’t wait to hear about it!
Posted by: Holland on 11/16/2018 at 8:17 pm
Enjoy the sunset and the sunrise !
You must have some view
Posted by: Vivian on 11/16/2018 at 10:15 am
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