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Entries By elias de andres martos


Artesonraju: Elias, Eric & Teams Hit Bad Route Conditions

Hello, this is the Artesonraju team calling from Moraine Camp, (high camp). Unfortunately we cannot celebrate a summit, but we were short of it today. We had to bail 150 meters prior to the summit, that's roughly 450 feet, given the bad snow and ice conditions that we had on the head wall, but we did put up a fight on a challenging climb. Everybody's doing great here. Looking forward to getting down to basecamp and eventually to Vaqueria tomorrow. So stay tuned for our full report on the trip in a couple days. Hopefully all are doing well at home. Thanks for following. Bye. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos calls from Moraine Camp.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Welcome down, safe & sound!! Kim, you (and the team) are amazing adventurers! I try to imagine that amount of effort for that many days in that frigid cold and wind, and needless to say, it’s impossible. Great job on all fronts and congratulations on this tough climb!!!  XXX Trish

Posted by: Trish on 8/12/2016 at 4:01 pm

Hi Kim , We are very proud of you & the entire team!!!  It must have been a very exciting climb!  We look forward to hearing all about this expedition & of course seeing the amazing photos!!  Travel safe & stay well!!  Love,  Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 8/10/2016 at 7:47 am


Artesonraju: Teams Take a Rest Day

Good evening from Artesonraju Base Camp. Today was a well deserved rest day here at Hauripampa after yesterday's summit on Paria. We're eager to start our final move towards our objective. RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and Eric Frank
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Artesonraju: Elias, Eric and Team Reach Summit of Paria North

Hello - This is Elias and Eric. We are on the summit of Paria North at 5,500 meters roughly 18,500' and it's a beautiful day up here. We can see a lot of the cool summits of the Cordillera Blanca. We just wanted to let you know that we are are starting our descent. We will let you know what happens in the next few days on the blog. That is all for now everybody's good and we are enjoying ourselves. Take care, RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos


RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos call from the summit of Paria North.

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Cheers to Roland from his fans in Atlanta!

Posted by: Meg Schlachter on 8/9/2016 at 6:43 pm

Wonderful!  Sounds like everything is on schedule!  Played trivia last week - one of the questions was “what sport uses an ice pick?” Yea!  we knew!  Love, momma

Posted by: Jane Lubow on 8/8/2016 at 8:08 am


Artesonraju: Team Acclimates on Nearby Peak Paria

Hello from Paria high camp at 5000 meter.This is a satellite peak of Artesonraju we've decided to climb to acclimatize. So far it's a Mars like landscape. All is good, stay tuned for our summit dispatch. RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & Eric Frank
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Artesonraju: Team Check in From Base Camp

All is good at Artesonraju Base Camp. We rested today to get used to the new altitude, as we saw the many trekkers of the Santa Cruz go by. We're headed to bed now excited for tomorrow! RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos
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Artesonraju: The Teams Arrive in Base Camp

And we are at Base Camp! The second day of the approach was incredible, as the scenery went from beautiful to dramatic... The climb up to Punta Union pass at 4750m greeted us with the views of Taulliraju, one of the most radical peaks in the range, with a sheer west face that made our jaws drop just thinking of how could it be even possible to climb. On the other side, Artesonraju, our objective reigned over the valley with its top amongst the clouds. Now it is time to spend some time acclimating, all while enjoying the comforts and gourmet food of camp. Best regards, RMI Guide Elías de Andres Martos and team P.S. Rich wishes happy B-day to his wife Christina.
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Hi Kim, WOW….Can’t wait to see the amazing photos!  This climb sounds wonderful!  We will be heading back home this evening from our terrific trip out West. We will continue to follow your progress. Love, Dad

Posted by: SHEL on 8/4/2016 at 8:10 am


Artesonraju: Elias, Eric & Their Teams Reach Huaripampa

Good evening from Huaripampa, our camp on our way to Artesonraju Base. For the writer here, starting the Santa Cruz trek from this side has been a revelation of yet undiscovered beauty. We're currently enjoying an incredible dinner of fresh trout, zucchini soup and fried banana, fueling for tomorrow's hike. We're all enjoying social time and laughter inside or pyramidal dining tent. Stay tuned on our progress, RMI Guides Elías de Andres Martos, Eric Frank, Peter and team
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Sounds amazing! Have a great climb!

Posted by: Jim Thayer on 8/4/2016 at 6:58 am

Sounds yummy!  Happy climbing (and eating!)

Posted by: Pam on 8/3/2016 at 5:19 am


Artesonraju: Elias & Team Hike to Lake Churup

Today was a great day for the first day of our RMI Artesonraju Expedition- incredible landscape on the acclimatization hike, a stellar crew, and great weather. We hiked up to 14,400’ to our traditional destination of Lake Churup, and we had incredible views of the range, the glacial lake and the mountain of the same name. We hiked back to town and had a team lunch before returning to our hotel for some packing and relaxing. We’re heading tomorrow to the trailhead, at the town of Vaqueria. Everyone is doing great and is very excited. We’ll be checking from the trail tomorrow, as we camp on our way to Base Camp. RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So happy you have such a great team. Enjoy!  Rich, I love you. Xo

Posted by: Christina on 8/3/2016 at 7:38 am

So glad to know you’re doing great and had wonderful views! Wish I could see them.

Posted by: Kay Roberts on 8/2/2016 at 7:17 am


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Descend to Base Camp

Hola! We are back at base camp safe and sound, tired but happy. A frigid, clear dawn kept us in our tents a bit longer this morning. With the first rays of sun peeking over the southwest face of Alpamayo, we knew our descent had to happen. We needed to be off the glacier before any ascending climbers reached the bergschrund over the col, otherwise we would be stuck waiting for the bottleneck to clear. We packed, and started our descent. An uneventful journey brought us to the warmth of the meadow where our cook Raúl was waiting for us with lunch ready to eat. After a couple nights of freeze dried food at our high camp; sweet potato fries, quinoa soup and a local dish "causa;" never tasted so good! Even at 14,000'. We spent the afternoon packing for tomorrow's departure towards town, and finished the day with a jump into the river for some needed hygiene (Yeap, these guys are classy, even in the mountains!). Our next post will be tomorrow from our hotel in Huaraz. Best regards, Elías and team.
Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hi Bob,  these blogs are THRILLING!

Posted by: Pat Pritz on 7/22/2016 at 5:51 am

I love and miss you Daddy.  Can’t wait to see you soon.

Posted by: Kate Stainton on 7/21/2016 at 9:27 pm


Alpamayo: Elias and Team Summit!

Original Post | July 20, 2016 - 11:38 a.m. PDT Hello! This is Elias and the Alpamayo team we are on top! A great crew - some excitement out there. We got to the top here in four hours and a half. We keep beating the time every year! So, the RMI Alpamayo Climb is getting better and better every year! Peter, I, and the guys here are pretty psyched. We're going to enjoy the views a little longer and then start our descent. We'll give you a shout later on tonight from camp. We will head for base camp tomorrow. That's it for now! Update | July 20, 2016 - 3:16 p.m. PDT And we did it! Everybody reached the summit of Alpamayo today. We were on the fence about climbing and almost didn't leave camp. Starting around 11:00 p.m., we experienced unusually strong winds which lasted pretty much all night and all morning. We dragged our feet, and decided to give it a go after a delayed breakfast. With no one on the wall, we could have the luxury of climbing this surreal face without headlamps. With better conditions than usual, the plethora of of nevé provided pure joy on our steep upward progression. By 19,000', crystal ice demanded more focus and conscious delivery of every swing with our ice tools. With the incredible training and preparation by the team, we reached the airy summit a mere four and a half hour after departure. We celebrated on the summit and started our descent. Eight 60 meter rappels brought us to the overhanging bergschrund and deposited us back on the glacier, a stones throw to our tents. Now we're enjoying dinner at our high camp. Our two porters, Leoncio and Miguel, greeted with a huge smile and bows of soup. We climb hard, and we climb in style. We'll be checking in from Base Camp tomorrow! RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team


Elias de Andres Martos & Team on Summit of Alpamayo July 20, 2016

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Awesome work guys.  Way to set an impossible bar for next year’s group!

Posted by: Brian P on 7/21/2016 at 9:05 pm

Phenomenal job everyone - well done!!!!!!

Posted by: John Horgan on 7/20/2016 at 4:42 pm

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