Entries By elias de andres martos
Greetings from High Camp on Artesonraju. After our forced carry to high camp on Saturday, we had yet another rainy and snowy day at base camp yesterday. Regardless, today was as clear as we have seen so far this trip, and we moved to high camp early this morning, to beat the other awaiting teams to the prime real estate at this moraine. Tents are pitched, food and fuel stashed and gear ready. We're going to take another day here at 5100m to acclimatize better and be in position for launching later this week. Everyone is doing well, and the excitement is high!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Good evening. The weather has forced us to change plans a bit, and since we were under the rain the last couple days, as well as this morning, we decided to opt out of climbing Paria for acclimatization. We did instead an afternoon carry to Artesonraju High Camp, as soon as we got a dry break, to start getting in position for our peak, getting the altitude needed while moving some equipment. We climbed to 5000m as the light mist started to anticipate yet another period of showers, and we arrived on time, but with our headlamps on, to our welcoming cook Emilio and his soup and beef stew with rice. Good evening and stay tuned!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos and team
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Hello again from Artesonraju Base Camp. We delayed one day our departure to Paria North due to bad weather this morning. We are hoping to launch tomorrow morning, as the skies are clearing up as we speak. That's it for today folks!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Buenas tardes from Artesonraju Base Camp! We enjoyed a good rest day today. We fiddled with our gear, re-fitted crampons and practiced climbing anchor transitions. Good conversations were had at the dining tent too, all while enjoying the tea selection that our cook Emilio has brought, which we sweeten with the super natural honey from the bees of his next door neighbor. Rain has made a short appearance in the afternoon, but we look forward to start hiking up Paria North soon, our acclimatization peak, under sunny skies.
That's it for now!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Hope you get some good weather, looks like an awesome time.
Posted by: Chris Jano on 7/2/2017 at 4:03 am
Keep killing it up there old man, love you!
Posted by: Nate Milbourn on 7/1/2017 at 11:43 am
Good evening from Taullipampa, the meadows where our Base Camp sits. We had a beautiful hike up Punta Union Pass, 4,700m, and then down to Artesonraju Base Camp at 4,000m. The journey, while long, will sure help with acclimatizing. Upon arrival, we enjoyed another incredible meal from our cook and had time to relax, listen to some music at the dining tent and share some stories of High School prom. We are looking forward to a full day at BC tomorrow before the action starts.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Buenas noches from our camp at Quebrada Paria. We started our approach trek today towards Artesonraju Base Camp. The long drive from the hotel was rewarded by incredible views of Huascaran and Huandoy, the towering Andean giants that oversaw our incursion into the range. After meeting our arrieros (donkey drivers) we continued with the first leg of our journey. A nice vegetable soup followed by rice and chicken on a potato cream made by our cook Emilio, all with ingredients from his own home farm, was the dinner that put us to bed. That's it for the first day of our expedition out in the field!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team.
Good evening from Huaraz! We're ready to launch our adventure into the mountains tomorrow. We're all packed up and ready after a nice day of acclimatizing and resting around here. We hiked to Churup lake, at 14,200ft in the morning, to then come down for a good late lunch as a team. We caught up on our sleep with a well earned nap in between packing, that help with recovering from international traveling and driving across Perú the last couple days.
Our next check in will be from the mountains! Stay tuned.
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andres Martos
PROUD OF YOU KIRKMAN!! AWESOME AND WAY TO GO! SAFE TRAVELS DOWN BRO!
Posted by: CHARLES HOLLIMAN on 7/6/2017 at 12:37 pm
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Peru Seminar
Greetings from Huaraz!
Do you like movies? Recognize the Paramount Pictures' logo? Well... that mountain exists, and we're off to climb it!!!
After a day of international traveling, and a night in Peru's capital, Lima, we drove north through the Pacific coastal desert, then through a section of Peruvian farmland where chili peppers are getting dried in the sun and finally, over the 14,000-foot pass of Conococha to arrive in Huaraz, the gateway of the "Callejon de Huaylas" Valley. This is where the Cordillera Blanca Range extends for nearly 100 miles. We checked in to our hotel, and a clear evening provided a great view of the mountains to the Northeast form the terraces of our rooms in the Hotel Andino, an incredible facility, where after four years, we're part of the family now.
We're off to bed, excited for our acclimatization hike tomorrow. Stay tuned as we start our expedition.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos and team
Excited for your latest adventure!!! Please FOLLOW directions——no doing it your way
Posted by: Kathryn Schiller on 6/26/2017 at 7:17 pm
Todd. Stay away from those peppers. Won’t help…at all
Posted by: Tim fader on 6/26/2017 at 5:18 pm
Posted by: Casey Grom, Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 12,700'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Casey Grom and Elias de Andres Martos climbed to 12,700' this morning, but were forced to turn due to icy and firm route conditions. The team has started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's team!
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos, Chase Nelson
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Alaska Seminar
Elevation: 348'
Our third AMS-Alpine Expedition has come to an end. What an incredible time we had! The rugged terrain of Little Switzerland didn't disappoint at all... While the weather has been the main challenge, conditions on the routes were stellar. Our team of four climbers were super talented and motivated, and training days in the vicinity of camp waiting for weather to clear, turned to be the most productive lessons on the terrain; from rock rescue scenarios, to anchor transitions, all paid back with very efficient climbs up iconic formations like "The Lost Marsupial" or "The Troll", which astonished glacier landing tourists from down below as their K2 Aviation plane landed on the Kahiltna Glacier.
Worth mentioned was our menu. If most of us are familiar with the concept of car camping... imagine how plane camping can be! With a powerless fridge like the glacier, steaks or fresh vegetables are unquestionable components of our diet in here. Yes, the alpine climbing in our seminar is at its best; light packs, 1 day missions from camp, and technical terrain. But when we're at camp, fun times, quality rest and better food is guaranteed.
Now we're headed to the airport, already thinking of next year's edition. Thanks for following and I hope you will consider joining us next season!
RMI Guide ElÃas de Andrés Martos
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Great to hear you are ahead of the pack and getting ready to take advantage of the better weather. Rest up and acclimatise well! best wishes to all for the rest of the climb!
Posted by: Peter Williamson on 7/3/2017 at 5:17 pm
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