Entries By elias de andres martos
Good evening again from Yanapacha moraine camp. We're turning into our sleeping bags after an incredibly successful day. We turned our acclimatization day into a summit; weather was good, and spirits were high, so after our training session on the glacier, we decided to put things into practice right away.
Yanapacha provided a short but steep glacier that definitely challenged the team this early into the stages of acclimatization, but now that it's under our belt, and with another night here, at its high camp, we're sure to get the most out of this rotation. Every one did an outstanding job, and the views from the summit are the new favorite for this guide. We'll descend tomorrow to base camp to the food of our cook and the rest that the thicker air will deliver. Stay tuned for more!
ElÃas and team
July 8, 2019
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran
Elevation: 15,748'
Good evening again, this time from Yanapacha Moraine camp. After a good rest/acclimatizing rest day yesterday, we moved uphill today, and established our home for the next couple of nights in the vecinity of the glacier at 4800m. The hike was one the most beautiful ones that this guide remembers, with giants like Huandoy, Chacraraju and
Huascarán North guarding our ascent over the steep grassy slopes on the foothills of Yanapacha.
Everyone did a good job, arriving ahead of schedule and we enjoyed an incredible meal pre-cooked by our chef Emilio. French fries with a beef stir fry was a hit at this elevation. We waved good bye to our porters, and as the sun went down, we crawled into our sleeping bags to remain warm and keep the psych for tomorrow's endeavor on Yanapacha. Stay tuned for more,
Guides Peter,
JT,
Elias & team.
July 7, 2019
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Huascaran
Elevation: 12,800'
Hello from
Yanganuco Base Camp. We are camped on a beautiful meadow at 3900m, currently under the rain, but with high enough clouds that we can see the toe of the glaciers above us. We got here yesterday, and after setting camp up, we spent the afternoon hiking to Laguna 69 for acclimatization; one of the major tourist destinations among day hikers in the area.
Were going to rest today, and get ready for tomorrow's move to our camp at the base of our 1st objective, Yanapacha.
Stay tuned for more!
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Good evening from Huaraz!
We have officially started our 2019 multi-peak
climbing adventure. Everyone arrived in Peru on time, and we proceeded yesterday to do the long drive between the country's capital and the Huaraz, the epicenter of climbing activity in this Andean country. The drive brought us over Conochocha Pass, nearing 4,200 meters of elevation and with astonishing views of the immediate massif of Pastoruri mountains, as the gateway to the Cordillera Blanca.
Without much hesitation, we continued on today with an acclimatization hike to Lake Churup, at 14,400ft above town. Beautiful turquoise waters below a steep peak of the same name, provided the best rewards for the first day of activity on our trip. The day followed with a team's lunch in town, and getting pre packed for tomorrows drive and approach to Base Camp. Everyone is excited, in great spirits and the weather looks good for the next few days. Cebollapampa Base Camp, between Chopicalqui and Yanapacha (our next objectives over the next few days) await!
Stay tuned for our updates from the mountain.
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos & JT Schmitt
RMI Lead Guides
Elias de Andres Martos and
Josh McDowell radioed from the top of Mt. Rainier to report a successful climb. Elias reported that the weather was so good the team only needed their
base layer for upper body insulation. The team will spend some time enjoying the summit before descending back to Camp Muir where they will overnight before descending back to Paradise tomorrow.
Congratulations to today's team!
Good morning from The Ruth Glacier.
Thirty hours of straight precipitation that started pretty much as we got to camp after summitting Mt. Dickey, kept us in our tents all day yesterday. The rain only turned into snow as the temperatures dropped with the night. We're currently waking up to a couple inches of fresh, heavy wet snow. But we are very happy! The name of the game was to stay dry and to eat good food; steak with quinoa and stir fried vegetables was an insuperable rest day dinner.
Stand by to see what the weather brings today.
Corell, Lucy and Elias
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 8:16 AM PT
Hello from the
Ruth Glacier Base Camp.
What a great day and climb we had yesterday. Our climb of Mount Dickey went well and while better accomplished over 2 days, we had to single push it in order to nail the weather. Saved by the bell, we pulled back into camp as the rain started, and it's been coming down ever since. Double reason for a well deserved rest day today. We'll enjoy a good steak (and I'm not kidding) meal and revisit our climb that provided arguably the best views of the Alaska Range.
Regards, Lucy, Corell and
ElÃas
Friday, May 24, 2019, 7:58 PM PT
Hello from the Great Ruth Gorge!
The magnitude of this place soon relieved the delay of not being able to fly yesterday. Cruising over a 35-mile long glacier to then land and camp under the massive 5,000ft East Face of Mount Dickey is indescribable. After a couple of hours crafting a classy camp, kitchen included, we treated ourselves to a nice diner of halibut burger with a side of fresh asparagus; definitely not your standard meal on the mountains. Heading to bed now as we're trying our first climbing objective early tomorrow.
Regards, Lucy, Corell and RMI Guide
ElÃas de Andres Martos
The
Four Day Climb May 17 - 20 led by
RMI Guides Elias de Andres Martos and
Chris Ebeling reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Elias reported calm winds and overall good conditions from the summit. After enjoying a little time in the crater the climbers will return to Camp Muir and then continue their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
November 19, 2018
Posted by: Elias de Andres Martos
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ama Dablam
Elevation: 9,383'
And it is a wrap up!
The last two days have been probably the quickest to go by. Descending from
Ama Dablam Base Camp was an easy task, enhanced by every step we took, as every foot of elevation we lost, made our bodies invigorate.
Joining the main Everest trail was a colorful experience of different nationalities, which we almost forgot in the relatively isolated expedition we had.
Arriving in Lukla definitely provides a sense of accomplishment, closing the trail loop we started nearly one month ago.
Now we are at the mercy of the weather to leave the mountains behind in our airplane tomorrow.
RMI Guide Elias de Andres Martos
Great Kim! Got some pictures from Snapfish of you climbing 3 years Ago this week! Love momma
Posted by: Jane on 7/10/2019 at 4:21 am
Wow! Way to go Kim & team! Congrats on the first of three!!
Posted by: shel on 7/10/2019 at 12:31 am
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