It was time for a big day of hiking. We've been ramping up the activity level, day by day as acclimatization has kicked in. The goal today was to hike back down valley to get busy on Kalapathar, an 18,300 ft "summit" with big views of Everest and pretty much everything else in our valley. In classic terms, it isn't really a summit, just a convenient bump on a ridge which then gets quite technical on its way to the summit of Pumori, a vertical mile overhead. But Kalapathar is accessible and popular. And for us, it would involve some good distance and vertical gain and loss... Otherwise known as training. We went off the main trail soon after leaving Basecamp to avoid the heavy traffic (trekkers, yaks, climbers, porters) and snuck along a quiet and slightly more rugged back path which goes through the abandoned basecamp for Pumori. We clomped through a few snowfields before rejoining the popular route on Kalapathar that comes up from Gorak Shep. And then it was just an easy plod upward to the mass of prayer flags at the top. It is a real treat to be up top without clouds obscuring the surrounding great peaks and today we took advantage of the opportunity, snapping a few hundred digital images in every direction. Eventually, the wind and cold caused us to beat a hasty retreat back down to Gorak Shep and then we started up the normal track to basecamp. As expected, the trail was quite busy, but we were still able to make good time... experiencing the cheap thrill of walking at normal (acclimatized) speed past a hundred panting and gasping (unacclimatized) trekkers.
It was fine to relax away what remained of the afternoon in camp after five and a half good hours of walking and scrambling.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
One of the finer days we've seen on the trip, weatherwise. Clear skies and calm as anything in the morning, which made us forget the cold. We were out in the glacier again, at our jungle gym of ladders and fixed lines and ice walls. The team practiced safety clips and rappel procedures and did lap after lap, without packs, with packs, with ice axes, without them... All under the watchful eyes of myself, JJ Justman, and Chhering Dorgee Sherpa.
At this point, still, the only climbers to have been through the icefall have been the icefall doctors responsible for building the route. That will change within a few days... Of course we are all quite curious as to what surprises the "new" route through the glacier holds.
In the afternoon on this fine day, our Basecamp Manager, Mark Tucker, took a foursome out for the first day of a planned four-day golf tournament in the mellow section of glacier close to camp. Tuck showed his party around the Khumbu Country Club, scoring a hole-in-one in the process (his partners now each owe him 100 rupees). Newcomer Robbie came away with the low score for the round however, with a nine under par performance.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It was time to put on mountaineering boots, crampons, harnesses and helmets. We went out into the Khumbu Glacier and tromped around with ice axes in our hands, exploring... But also brushing up on our climbing moves, our balance and our endurance. The glacier at the level of Base Camp can be a maze of ice walls and pinnacles and -for now- frozen stream courses. We danced carefully across ponds of frozen meltwater and found our way to the start of the climbing route into the serious part of the Khumbu Icefall. The afternoon found us playing in a jungle gym of ladders, fixed ropes, rappel stations and ice walls. Our Sherpa team had built this great obstacle course for practice and together we tackled each skill station and played/worked out in the glacier for hours. It was great to come in a little weary from a day out in the sun and satisfying to finally feel like we'd edged into the climbing world from the hiking world.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Great day for hiking. Now that most of the team are feeling more or less adjusted to the 17,500 feet of Basecamp, today seemed like the day for walking higher. Our choices are limited in this dead-end valley since going up through the Khumbu Icefall for exercise is too spicy a proposition for most reasonable folks. Our solution is to backtrack a bit, following the trail partway back down toward Gorak Shep and then branching off to gain some elevation. The goal today was Pumori Camp One at about 18,200 ft of elevation. We like this particular stair master of a hike because the boulder-hopping is pretty similar to the ice-chunk hopping we'll do in the Icefall. As a bonus, we gained stupendous views of Everest (from North Col to South Col), Lhotse, Nuptse and those distant peaks like Ama Dablam and Thamserku that we used to see so regularly while trekking. We could also see the sprawl of tents down on the Khumbu, growing by the minute. Sure enough, when we reached the main trail during our descent, it was like getting on the interstate highway back home. Hundreds of trekkers, climbers, porters and yaks are now flowing in and out of Base. Tents are going up everywhere, helicopters are buzzing around like flies... The climbing season is cranking up quickly. We walked the half hour or so from downtown Everest Basecamp to our exit in the upper midsection and sat down for one of Kumar's great lunches. Afternoon is for resting, relaxing and rehydrating. We've got plans for cranking things up another notch tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
It was cloudy overhead this morning, threatening another pulse of snow. We'd enjoyed yesterday's calm sunshine and hoped for one more day of the same, but that didn't seem likely. The snow held off nicely for our Puja ceremony though and we even got a couple hours of sunshine. The climbing Lama had made his way up from Pangboche for the event... Ours was the first in camp other than the one for the Icefall Doctors (who have been hard at work building the climbing route for the past two weeks already). We sat and listened to the prayers and chants as our Sherpa team attended to all of the mechanics of the ceremony, distributing offerings and building the prayer mast with colorful flags radiating out in five directions. The idea is that we want the blessing of the gods before we put any of our team at risk on the mountain. Having watched a gargantuan avalanche come down over the icefall around seven this morning, we all hoped the gods were paying attention to our pleading. The Puja finishes with everybody throwing tsampa (barley flour) up to the heavens and then in a gesture of friendship and camaraderie, spreading the remaining tsampa on the cheeks and noses of one's fellow climbers. We all wished each other good luck and careful climbing and then toasted with beer, coca cola, whiskey, rakshi and chang (it wasn't a requirement that any individual have each and every one of those... we are at 17,500 ft and it really doesn't take much sipping to feel an amplified effect).
After lunch, we walked out onto the lower section of the Khumbu Glacier to stretch our legs and explore as the storm moved in. We were able to walk on frozen streams and watercourses beneath great towers of gleaming ice. It was snowing good and hard by the time we got back to camp, but now -in early evening- that snow has quit although cloud still hangs low and plentiful around us.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Miss you all terribly. Glad Avalanche is down off icefall before you boys head up. JJ was right, Erin and I made a beeline to the pizza place in Katmandu. They had a strike in the country the next day so when we took off on the plane it was strange to see no cars (almost) on the streets. Warm here in Doha. Warm thoughts to all of you. Xoxo
Posted by: Bonny Rogers on 4/7/2015 at 10:50 pm
HW: What a beautiful ceremony and important day! We love reading all the details in Dave’s blog. Hope the tent life is treating you well. All the best! -FX
Hello RMI Blog Enthusiasts!
It's another sunny day here in Everest Base Camp. Of course, our team is doing great. However, all of us are a little sad. This morning our two trekkers that followed along with us parted ways and started their return journey back to Kathmandu.
I have to tell you that it was a lot of fun having Bonnie and Erin along giving our climbing team support. I am sure they are already trying to figure out what kind and how many pizzas they will order at Fire and Ice Pizza.
As for the rest of us we got down to some business today. The team went over and rigged their climbing equipment. Now, crampons are fitting snug, ice axe leashes are set and ascenders are set to the perfect length. There's no doubt, we are ready to do some practicing to work out any kinks before we actually get busy with the real deal.
It's now time to relax, drink a few more cups of tea and put on our dinner attire.
Most importantly though!! How bout them Wisconsin Badgers! This Wisconsin native cannot remember the last time The Badgers were in the finals. So with no further hesitation...
WISCONSIN!!!
RMI Guide JJ Justman
Happy Easter! The Everest Base Camp bunny somehow found his way through falling snow last night and left chocolate for each climber and trekker to find this morning. In the night, we couldn't hear the the rabbit over the noise of storm winds aloft and a handful of thunderous ice avalanches off the mountains around us. Morning wasn't so bad though, the sun eventually made it through the clouds and Kumar's great breakfast had us all feeling comfortable and content. This was a holiday for our team... 17,500 feet takes a little bit of getting used to and so we hadn't planned anything more strenuous than a series of naps and a walk out to "Icy Cyber" -the spot out in the Khumbu Glacier where we dependably get 3G cell service. A few helicopters came through on flight seeing tours and we watched the Icefall Doctors working their way up and down this year's route through the jumbled glacier. Our Sherpa team labored at building the stone altar for our Puja, which ought to take place in several days.
Tonight's dinner will be special as it will be our last chance to hang with Erin and Bonny. They'll start working back toward Kathmandu tomorrow morning, as planned, and we'll begin to focus on the mountain.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
I am truly excited for you guys…again! Be safe and enjoy the whole thing as very, very few get that experience. bb
Posted by: Bill Bussey on 4/6/2015 at 6:19 am
HW: Finally at EBC. Glad to hear the Easter Bunny paid a visit to you too,and brought you some chocolate. We were at the zoo for some eggtravaganza. Kids had great fun. Best wishes to you and the entire team. -FX
This is Dave Hahn calling from Everest Base Camp, 17,500 feet on the Khumbu Glacier. Well, we made it. We came up from Lobuche today, the entire team- six climbers, two trekkers, and two guides. Tschering Dorjay Sherpa, our Sirdar, leading the way, brought us up to Base Camp. I think we are about the first climbing team to make it into Base Camp this year. And at our base camp, incredible progress has been made. Our Sherpa team has done great work setting our camp up and Mark Tucker, our base camp manager, has been here the last couple of days and got things buffed out just perfectly for us to move in.
We started up from Lobuche at 8:15. We got to Base Camp at 1:15, so we made great progress. It was a beautiful day with just a little cloud cover, and it was just about perfect for walking. Tomorrow we'll get squared away and get internet capabilities again, and get back into written distractions, but just wanted to bring you up to date for this evening. Bye now.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
RMI Guide Dave Hahn calling after arriving to Everest Base Camp.
Robbie, It’s Liz Weiner. I am in London with Olivia and we spent the morning with Laura at church and brunch. Way to go with reaching Base Camp on Easter. Very special. Looking forward to following your progress. All the best to you and your team! God bless.
Posted by: Elizabeth Weiner on 4/5/2015 at 1:08 pm
Happy Easter to all. Watching daily from Arizona as we pre-heat the oven for summer. Safe climbing.
A quiet day for us at 16,000 ft in Lobuche. Things are certainly colder up at this end of the valley, but the sun was good and strong this morning and so we ventured out for a short walk along the lateral moraine of the Khumbu Glacier to stretch legs and catch views. Nuptse is front and center and ridiculously steep when viewed from Lobuche (and from any other angle as well, come to think of it) but our eyes kept straying toward Everest Base Camp and the peaks that surround it- Pumori, Lingtren and Khumbutse. It isn't very far away now... We'll be there tomorrow with any luck. But first things first, we made the most of this rest day with a short visit to the Italian research "pyramid" a few minutes away and up a side valley. One of the staff gave us a fine tour of the facilities and described the atmospheric and glacial science being conducted. Then it was back to our tea house as the sky clouded up yet again. Snow started falling after lunch, which made it just that much easier to kick back and rest away the afternoon. We've got cards, chess and scrabble... Books and naps worked pretty good as well.
Last night in a tea house... Tent life begins tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Finally back in the land of Internet... But we had to go to 16,000 ft for it. The team is safely in Lobuche. We cruised up from Pheriche this morning in just about three and a half hours. Conditions were nice enough for walking, but it was a little on the cool side and not conducive to hanging out for long. The first glance at the sky today had us thinking we'd be walking in another snowstorm, but things cleared up well enough while we ate breakfast. We had fine views of Taboche, Cholatse, Pumori, Nuptse and Ama Dablam along with a half dozen other Himalayan giants. The last hour of today's hike involved snow-covered ground, but didn't present us with any special problems. All the team are acclimatizing well and we hope for an easy day of hiking and resting around Lobuche tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guides Dave Hahn, JJ Justman and Team
HW: Great to see you in the photos Dave posted, looking healthy and happy. Glad to hear everyone is acclimatizing well. You are almost at Base Camp! Only for Everest do you feel, even you are already at 16,000, the real test has yet to begun. Please stay safe and healthy. We are all thinking of you every day. - FX
Look out, Mark Tucker… Robbie might be donning your green jacket on Sunday! Play [and climb] safe, everyone.
Posted by: Everett Moran on 4/11/2015 at 2:24 pm
Must have been Larry’s first golfing adventure in a long time. Kathy and I are praying for you Larry. Go 4 it!!!
Walt
Posted by: Walt Unti on 4/11/2015 at 10:49 am
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