Good morning everybody. This is Leon and team calling from our way out of Boston Basin in this morning. Another beautiful day today, just like yesterday, and we climbed up the West Ridge of Forbidden. We had a successful trip, starting out at 2:30 in the morning under a full moon. It was beautiful, a perfect day. And yeah, we're all doing well heading out to the cars hopefully in time to watch the World Cup Finals. Talk to you guys later. Thank you. Bye.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
RMI Guide Leon Davis checks in from the North Cascades.
July 11, 2014 - 8:15 pm PT
Hi Everybody this is Leon and Bryan in the Boston Basin, we climbed Sharkfin Tower today. It was a beautiful day. Everyone did great, everyone is feeling it but we got a lot of good training in.
Tomorrow our plan is to wake up early and get an alpine start and head up to the west ridge of Forbidden and climb that thing.
All is well, we will talk to you tomorrow.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
Hi, this is Leon calling from Boston Basin Camp. We had a beautiful day getting here and just enjoying an evening after dinner. All is well. Tomorrow we are having a training day and planning to head up and climb Sharkfin Tower. Tomorrow's weather looks great so we are psyched. I'll talk to you guys tomorrow. Bye.
RMI Guide Leon Davis
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Tyler Jones and Geoff Schellens reached Ingraham Flats on Mt. Rainier today, but due to poor visibility and bad weather they were forced to turn abort their summit attempt. The team returned to Camp Muir and have started their descent back to Paradise and will arrive at Ashford BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's team.
June 16, 2014 11:05pm PT
Well, the Rolling Stones hit the nail on the head with this one. We've sort of adopted it as our theme song of the day, as the weather continued to thwart upward movement for our team. Temperatures and wind in camp were more conducive to resting inside than hanging around outside, and the team spent most of the day relaxing in our posh, eating pancakes and sharing stories with the other climbers who stayed in camp.
While the forecast isn't the greatest we've seen, we're still hoping for a window of high pressure for a summit attempt this week. We are getting close to a go/no go date, but spirits remain high and the stoke for the experience is strong. Keep sending the positive vibes and we'll do our part if the mountain cooperates!! Cheers from a well-lived-in 14K camp,
RMI Guides TJ, Garrett, Bryan and the No Troubles Crew
D.G. I know you want this weather to straighten up so you guys can get a chance at the summit. Crossing my fingers that chance will come real soon. Have you all started numbering the stories yet? Love, Mom
Posted by: Caroline on 6/17/2014 at 7:52 pm
Jen - Sorry to hear that the weather is uncooperative, but it will make it that much sweeter when you do get a chance to go higher. I’m sending my strongest clear calm weather vibes!
June 15, 2014 - 11:35 pm PT
Well, the weather keeps us down in from higher altitudes. Though a short window during this morning allowed us to venture out to one of the best view spots in all of the Alaska Range, The Edge of The World. We took pictures and told stories as the clouds came in and out, enjoying the company and scenery. But we'd like to give some personal shout outs from each of the folks here, so keep reading:
Happy Father's Day Dad, Ken, and Frank! Love you guys! Nicole, Emma, and Baby Jake- love and miss you guys! Mom- I am warm and happy. You can sleep now :) all of my love! Aunt Marie and Uncle Kelly- thanks for the prayers! Houston Nicole, thanks for all of the comments! Wish you and Shaun were here. Have a great trip Wade! Thinking of everyone down there! -Jen
Hope all is well at home, can't wait to catch up. Hopin for good weather as the clock is ticking. Happy Father's Day a little late. The views are great as is the food. Missing my little lady a lot. See u all soon.
-jake
Hi Oz, I love you and miss you. So happy and proud to be your father. See you soon.
On this Father. Day at camp 14 I'm thinking of my father. When you were alive. you would say you didn't ever want to know when I climb McKinley. I'm so glad that you are my gaurding angel on this trip. Dave Johnson
Happy father's Dad and Tommy! To all the other dads in my family! Love you all. Ty
Happy Father's Day dad! Thinking of you from a frosty 14 camp, hope you're enjoying a sultry southern Sunday! Love, Garrett
RMI Guides Tyler Jones, Garrett Stevens & Bryan Hendrick
Hi Will, We have been following your progress everyday and keeping the family informed. We are all rooting for you and your team. The pictures we have seen are incredible. Look forward to hearing all about the climb when you return. Keep up the good work! Love and prayers, Mom & Dad
Posted by: Pat & Bill Ivy on 6/17/2014 at 6:20 am
Jake- Maggie was excited to hear how much you miss her :)Hope the weather cooperates for you and the team, stay warm!
June 14, 2014 - 4:00 pm PT
It's another rest/weather day here at 14k camp, and we've decided to combat a few hours of down time with a fun dispatch game called add-on! We're going to pass the phone around and let folks contribute their own voice to the blog today...have fun guessing who wrote what!
So there I was tied up to Denali....eating cheez its, looking for makin bacon. Wondering how long before I will be done piggin out.
Just like our bacon pieces we were fryin.
Hard days are made easier by good company, good food, great views and most of all encouraging blog comments...and Jerry.. Yes, the comments are great and looking forward to those promised margaritas at Amado's.. And the mountain diet will defo put magic into the armadillo hoppyum combo. The coffee could be better too bad there is no Berres brothers coffee.
I would prefer Jim Beam but whatever, I guess better coffee would work for now. I think Charlie Brown ran past my tent. I guess I will go back to the posh and listen to Jimmy Buffett and wait for my cheese burger in paradise.
And there you have it. Some of these may be references to very personal items - we decided it was probably better not to ask too many questions. Time keeps on slippin' by here in advanced base camp, but spirits are high and team No Troubles is ready when the mountain gives us a chance. Hasta pronto!
RMI Guides Garrett Stevens, Tyler Jones, Bryan Hendrick and the crew
I just wanted to say “Happy Father’s Day”. We woke to pouring rain this AM. (It rained all night last night too.) It cleared up about 1:00 and was beautiful here! We’re hoping that the mountain is “nice” to you guys so that you can complete your climb soon! Best wishes, and stay safe.
Love Ronda, Al, Meeka and Max (Did I mention one of your furry friends (no names mentioned) tried to eat your pillow? I think I saved it (Most of it). Haha (I think they miss you)
Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/15/2014 at 7:16 pm
Of course I knew what David wrote, all about his favorite things. I’m sure all of those places are missing Dave as we are too! The pictures are absolutely beautiful, it’s hard to imagine how breathtaking it is in person. Wishing you all a continued safe and enjoyable trip! We can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back, Dave! Let’s go have some Amado’s margaritas! Much love- Laura and Will
Posted by: Laura and Will Johnson on 6/15/2014 at 4:27 pm
June 13, 2014 3:21pm PTDenali is a mountain of many moods. Yesterday, as we carried our cache to our highest point yet, she gave us a taste of moderate winds and blowing snow, showing a little irritation. Today, she seems more benign, with light winds, high clouds, and intermittent snow here in camp. The tents are warm and comforting, and we're all enjoying a well earned rest session.
To that end, we started the morning with plenty of hot coffee, endless strips of crispy, delicious bacon, and the Tyler Jones specialty of blueberry pancakes that would give the best griddle cooks a serious run for their money. The perfectly browned hot cakes, the secrets of which TJ learned from his grandpa, just kept coming, and we all ate our fill until we couldn't stuff another one down.
The remainder of the day will be dedicated to recuperation, re-hydration, and maximum relaxation. In fact, the main goal is to move as little as possible and save our energy for the climbing to come. Until then, we'll be standing by, waiting for the best window for our summit push. Thanks for all the positive vibes and keep'em coming!
Cheers for now, check back tomorrow...
Team No Troubles
Dave, Although I believe you are on the mountain, I want some proof with some close-up pictures of you! Put them on this site so we can see them. I hope you’re staying warm. Patty
Posted by: Patty on 6/15/2014 at 10:12 am
Hi Paul. I’m hoping that your journey is not harder than you imagined, and that your still enjoying yourself. Things are going good here. It was supposed to rain most of the weekend, but had some sun, so did some weeding. (BLAH!!!!) Just finished eating my “Sunday” night papa’s pizza. ( We’re breaking all kinds of rules when your gone. Haha!) Stay safe. We miss you. Alex & the dogs, say Happy Dad’s Day!!! Love Ronda, Al, Meeka (the dog who drank half my coffee this AM) and Max.
Posted by: Ronda Kinneberg on 6/14/2014 at 5:25 pm
June 12, 2014 - 9:47 pm PT
Climbing in Alaska, so close to the Arctic circle is never an easy task. Formidable and imposing features surround the landscape we travel through. Climbing, especially on "The High One" presents the added challenge of high winds, low temperatures, and high altitude.
Today, we awoke to one of these elements; low temperatures. It makes for a unique challenge when faced with the need to begin the days work. Forcing ones self to leave the warm cocoon you have been comfortably nestled in all night. We began our day with a warm dose of oatmeal and hot drinks, and soon took off towards the fixed lines that lay above our current camp at 14,000 feet, in Genet Basin. As an expedition this was our first time above our current camp.
As we struck out from camp we welcomed the warmth of the sun on our backs. After climbing to the base of the fixed lines, we began our steepest climbing of the day. Travel was smooth and the reality of the climbing set in. From the top of the fixed lines we ran the ridge of the West Buttress and made efficient work to the base of "The Thumb," at 16,700'. We created a cache of food and some personal items needed for high camp and our summit attempt. From our cache we retraced our steps back to camp. The team made quick work of dinner and now are fast asleep.
For now we wait and rest, ready to launch. All we need is a window and bang! We're off. Keep it locked in...
RMI Guide Tyler Jones
Jen - Way to go! Fixed lines - it’s getting real. I know you’re doing awesome. Can’t wait to hear all about it when you get back.
Posted by: Nicole on 6/13/2014 at 8:17 pm
Hi Will! I got your postcard of Denali yesterday! Such a sweet surprise - I’m praying for you and missing you! The a/c at the office is nothing compared to your frigid temps but know that I’m shivering with u and dreaming of the day I can go to Alaska w u! Remember the anchorage guy in the RV we met in the parking lot of lake Louise? Good mems! Luv u big time - da wife.
June 11, 2014 3:14pm PT
Greetings from Team No Troubles,
Sitting here for another rest day at 14,200'. Cold temperatures and steady wind have been the story of the day, and we made the right decision to stand by for the time being.
Last night saw the mercury plummet to an ambient temp of -17F, which is much more common up here in April than it is in June. Combine that temp with winds in camp of about 15mph and you have a recipe for immediate freezing of any exposed skin, as the wind chill hovers somewhere between -45 and -50F. Brrrrr shiver!
So instead of our planned carry to the top of the fixed lines, we'll stay in camp today, on a steady orbit around our posh and sleeping tents. The team is on guard against any uninvited trespassing into our bathroom, too, as we've had more than one inquiry from other folks about using our lovely on-mountain comfort station.
Keep sending warm thoughts, and hopefully warmer weather, our way! Keep the comments coming too, we love to hear from y'all. From a frosty 14K camp.
RMI Guides Bryan, Tyler, Garrett and the No Troubles Crew
.jpg)
.jpg)
Hi to Meredith, Leon, and the whole team! Wishing you stellar conditions and a great experience.
-Geoff
Posted by: Geoff on 7/11/2014 at 6:51 pm
View All Comments