Entries By brent okita
May 7, 2019
Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,000'
Our hike up to Camp Muir yesterday was beautiful. The nicest day of the season!
This morning we climbed the first 1,000' of the route to
Ingraham Flats as part of our acclimatization for the climb. Reports from other guides suggest our route is the nicest, most direct route we could ask for. We're all excited!
We'll have a meeting to go over preparations for the climb tonight then get to bed before our pre-dawn departure.
Wish us well.
RMI Guides
Brent Okita,
Bryan Mazaika and the crew at Muir
April 29, 2019
Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
What a few days it's been. After a productive and fun day at our climbing school on Saturday we were excited about the perfect day we had yesterday for our hike up to Camp Muir. At times it was almost too hot as the sun's radiation backed. But we all persevered and made it to Camp Muir doing well.
Unfortunately, today we received some bad news when the guides kicking in the route discovered a crevasse preventing forward progress up to the higher reaches of the mountain. That, coupled with some not insignificant avalanche hazard from a couple of unexpected evening snow storms has forced us to temper our ambitions for the summit this go around.
While disappointed, the team was understanding and in full agreement that getting down safe and sound was our priority.
While a handful of folks opted to descend to the comforts of life at sea level, the rest of us explored the upper mountain as much as we could and had a great day enjoying the glaciers and crevasses of
Mt Rainier. Later, as the now normal afternoon snow storm continues to dump snow at Muir here, we're passing the afternoon and evening talking about mountains, climbing and the tall tales that take root in such firmament.
We're planning on an early departure tomorrow morning when we hope the skies will have cleared and the sun will shine on our descent.
See you soon.
RMI Guides Brent Okita, Dustin Wittmier, James Bealer and the team
April 19, 2019
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
The storm hitting us at
Camp Muir originated in the tropics and we wouldn't have been surprised to see palm fronds waving in the breeze given how unseasonably warm it is up here. Yes, it's still snowing, but just. And for being at 10,000' that's warm!
We started our day discussing numerous topics in the Bunkhouse, but ventured out by mid morning. Equipped though we were with full on Gortex storm gear it took less than an hour for the moisture in the cloud enveloping our world to permeate the vaunted membrane of our rain gear.
But we persevered and got some great training in, developing our expertise in handling running belays and evaluating snow stability through studying snow pits. Lunchtime found us back inside, thankful for the plywood protection of our bunkhouse and trying to dry out our external layers through our bodies natural internal combustion. It does work, but slowly.
There was plenty to talk about through the afternoon, and when queried whether anyone wanted more outdoor training a decided no was the response. A smart group!
The evening culminated with war stories of Everest and beyond.
Now that we're back in our old sleeping bags the weather gods are unleashing a tempest like no other. All we can hope is that this big bad storm is blowing itself out. Dreams of a pleasant descent tomorrow morning might allow some well deserved sleep tonight.
Goodnight from Camp Muir.
RMI Guide Brent Okita
April 17, 2019
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,000'
Everyone is doing great on day four of our
seminar. A hard day up to Muir was followed by a full day of training on Tuesday in increasingly challenging weather conditions.
Today dawned sunny but quite windy. As forecasted, the winds stayed strong throughout the day. Not being one to let a little wind get in the way of some great training, we did have to moderate our plans to cope with the 40-45 mph sheets of blowing snow that swept thru Muir all day.
Sticking close to camp allowed us to bail back to the bunkhouse for the occasional break. There were no complaints about not getting out on the glacier for the day. An earlier exploration by Mike and me proved the winds were just as strong out there as at camp.
Anchors, crevasse rescue, fixed rope work and rappelling filled the day completely. And for the evening: mountain medicine and mountain weather is on the docket.
We're looking forward to another good day of training tomorrow, though we might have to deal with another little storm to keep us honest.
Alas, I'm afraid a summit bid has been shelved due to the increasing avalanche hazard up high. We're safe here at camp, and that's how we'd like to keep it.
All for now.
The crew at Muir
April 16, 2019
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
RMI Guides Brent Okita and
Mike King are back on Mt. Rainier along with climbers on the
Expedition Skills Seminar - Winter. The team gathered at Rainier BaseCamp on Sunday for a day of technical training, gear checks and packing. With clear roads on Monday morning they headed for Paradise and made the push all the way to Camp Muir. Today the team trained near Camp Muir with cramponing, rope travel and ice axe arrest practice while Brent and RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli kicked in the route above Camp Muir and investigated the current conditions. The team will continue training this week with the hope of making a summit attempt before their return on Friday.
October 1, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita, Bryan Mazaika
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 11,200'
The Four Day Summit Climb Teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Bryan Mazaika spent a stormy night at Camp Muir. They woke very early in the morning to blowing snow and whiteout conditions that forced the team to go back to bed for a few hours. They woke up again for breakfast, and the skies started clearing. The team decided to make the best of the morning and are going for a walk to Ingraham Flats so that they can see the upper mountain. This is the final climb of Mt. Rainier for our 2018 season, they will enjoy this views from the flats before heading back to Paradise.
Congratulations team!
September 19, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita, Mike King
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir September 16 - 21 met in Ashford on a very rainy Sunday for their Technical Training day. With a gear check completed and their backpacks full they left Paradise on Monday with clear skies and sunshine. The team has been at Camp Muir practicing mountaineering skills and enjoying this great weather. Today they got an early alpine start and made their summit attempt.
RMI Guide Brent Okita reported a beautiful morning with no wind as they reached the crater rim of Mt. Rainier around 8:30 AM PT. The team will enjoy some time soaking in the views from the summit before starting their descent to Camp Muir. On mountain training will continue for the group until Friday when they will descend to Paradise and return to Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
September 15, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and JM Gorum reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. Brent reported a cold morning, and the team climbed into the a cap, so their time on the summit was brief. The are on the descent and en route to Camp Muir.
Congratulations to today's teams!
September 6, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Four Day Summit Climb September 3 - 6 led by
RMI Guides Brent Okita and
JT Schmitt were walking up Columbia Crest just before 7 AM PT today. Brent reported a beautiful day and great climb. They will enjoy some time in the crater before starting their descent. Once back at Camp Muir they will repack and continue down to Paradise. They will end their program with a celebration at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's summit climb teams!
August 28, 2018
Posted by: Brent Okita, Jenny Konway
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The
Four Day Summit Climb August 25 - 28 reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.
RMI Guides Brent Okita and
Jenny Konway led the teams and were approaching the crater rim just before 7 AM PT. Brent reported a beautiful day on the mountain with clear skies and low winds. They will spend some time in the crater before starting their descent. Upon their return to Paradise they will transfer to Rainier BaseCamp and conclude their program with a short celebration.
Congratulations to today's climbers!
Words cannot adequately express how proud and excited we are for you and your team on this amazing accomplishment. You even were able to reach the summit!!
God Bless You!
Posted by: Uncle Gary & Aunt Roe on 5/5/2019 at 10:41 am
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