Entries By billy haas
Hola del Campo Uno. For those of you who don't "habla español" El Campo Uno is spanish for... The Campo Uno. Our team enjoyed a relaxed morning getting packed up and out of
Aconcagua Basecamp despite how eager we were to get this climb underway. We enjoyed perfect weather on our move up and even got to spend some time with
JJ and the other RMI crew descending after yesterday's successful summit bid at one of our breaks along the trail. We could hear JJ coming down the trail but couldn't see him until he was right upon us. His full camouflage outfit (including camo expedition backpack) is perfectly at home in the mountain environment. Our team is moving extremely well in large part due to great fitness but also great rest-stepping and footwork. They made short work of the move and even had the energy to write a limerick along the way. Here it is for your reading pleasure:
Climbing this mountain is rough, but our team is tougher than tough. Through wind, ice, and sand on the peak we'll all stand because we've all got the right stuff!
All for now...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Hi all,
Not much new to report from our basecamp here at
Plaza Argentina. The physical output and exertion on yesterday's carry is hopefully triggering our bodies to take advantage of today's rest and accelerate our acclimation process. We're spending the day eating good food (egg & prosciutto scramble! cucumber, tomato, and melon salad!), napping, and tying up loose ends in preparation for tomorrow's move up to
Camp 1. We've been listening to the hippies over at the freelance porter tent jam away on their drums and recorder. While not exactly relaxing it's at least a bit comical. Anyway, hoping for a good night's sleep, provided the porters have jammed themselves out, and don't play another night into the wee hours of the morn... We'll check in again tomorrow evening and let you know how it all went.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
Howdy all... Checking in after a busy, busy day up here on
Aconcagua. There was a bit of commotion buzzing around Plaza Argentina this morning with a bunch of helicopter flights coming in and out of basecamp requiring logistical assistance on our part that stalled us from getting out of the gate on our planned carry up to Camp 1. Luckily, what could have been a logistical nightmare was averted and despite the late start, our team made a great effort and put in a big cache of personal gear, food, fuel, and other group gear up at ~16,400' right in the heart of Camp 1. We're back down here at Plaza Argentina, tired after a long day on our first foray onto the upper mountain but psyched that the team performed so well despite the heavy loads. Spirits are high after a job well done and we hope to keep the good times rolling through another rest/acclimatization day at basecamp tomorrow.
Signing off...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Resting today... We are all enjoying a pleasant afternoon up here at
Plaza Argentina. Our two principal goals for today are letting our bodies rest up from the work we've done over the past three days and continue that acclimatization process, and to prep and pack our gear, food, and fuel for tomorrow's planned carry up to Camp 1. The team is again in good spirits and enjoying the day. We'll check in again tomorrow and let you know how our first true push up the mountain went...
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
On The Map
We've made it to Basecamp! After three long days on the trail our team rolled on in to
Plaza Argentina this afternoon in good style and in good spirits. And while we are all feeling the altitude a little bit we are no worse for the wear. We enjoyed some refreshments upon arrival from the great Grajales staff and proceeded to set up camp and get settled in after a little breather. We just finished a great meal of of soup, homemade lasagna (!!!), and flan for dessert and are getting ready to tuck ourselves in for the evening. Up at nearly 14K, it's a fair bit colder here than it was on our trek in, especially at night so we're finally putting some of our warm clothes to good use. Typically, the first night at a higher elevation can be a little uncomfortable so we'll see how everybody fares tonight. I'm sure there may be a few headaches in the group, but that's totally normal... Anyway, we're all still having fun and looking forward to a good rest day tomorrow.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
Journey to Casa de Piedra.
Our crew made great time today on our march from Pampa de Leñas to our second trekking camp at Casa de Piedra. We had significantly cooler temps today and some welcome cloud cover (albeit with a few sprinkles) which made for a much more pleasant walk than yesterday. The crew is starting to find the rhythm of the mountain and also finding a good synergy among the teammates. We are all having fun and even enjoying some interesting people.
Good times! Headed for
Aconcagua Basecamp tomorrow...
Talk soon.
RMI Guide Billy Nugent
January 14, 2015
Hola de Pampa de Leñas! Today our team made our first moves in the mountains in great style by ticking off the first stretch on our three day journey to
Plaza Argentina, our basecamp. The trail was hot and dusty but we enjoyed a nice breeze from time to time and incredible views that made the heat bearable. After setting up our camp we had the good fortune to greet another RMI expedition as they arrived in camp returning from a successful summit bid a few days ago. Big congrats to Zeb and his crew! We all got to share an asado last night complete with grilled beef tenderloin and vino which was quite a treat. The herrieros (mule drivers) cooked for us over an open fire... Pretty classy backcountry living. We're thankfully not on the ramen noodle program yet, it was nice to hold that off another day. Anyway, all is well and tomorrow calls for another day of walking up the Vacas Valley... We'll check in and let you know how it goes.
All for now,
RMI Guides Billy Nugent, Katrina Bloemsma, and Billy Haas
On The Map
Hi everyone, Billy (Nugent) here checking in after the first official day on our 2015
Aconcagua expedition. Today was a crazy one and the team spent most of the day scrambling around trying to get everything ready for tomorrow´s departure to the mountain. One of our team members was the victim of freezing rain and thus a cancelled flight from O´Hare so she arrived in Mendoza this morning and was forced to hit the ground running. We went straight to the permit office to handle that and then made a quick stop to freshen up at the hotel before we departed for Penitentes where Grajales, our outfitter, has a packing facility near the trailhead. The rest of the team spent the morning tying up loose ends; making runs to the grocery store and gear shop to pick up last minute items before we all jumped in the van for a three-hour drive up to Penitentes in the mountains. Once we arrived we spent several hours packing and readying our loads for the mules that were broken up nicely by a great dinner at Ayelen, our hotel. Lots of things to remember means a fair bit of stress but that will all evaporate once we hit the trail tomorrow. The team is ready and in good spirits, eager to hit the trail! We´ll check in again from our first camp along the trekking route into basecamp.
All for now,
RMI Guide Billy Nugent and the gang
I remember when I first stepped into the mountains. I was 11 years old and I had never seen a mountain before, let alone thought of climbing one. My father, older brother, and I traveled to the White Mountains of New Hampshire to climb Mt. Washington (6,288’). I remember finally standing on top of the boulder pile that comprises the summit and feeling the accomplishment. "I did it, I'm on top!" It was windy—a wet cold cloud had moved in during the final hour of tedious boulder hoping to the top—and even at that age I remember quickly coming to the realization that I needed to turn around and walk back down! Mt. Washington is unique in that it has a paved road to the summit along with the world’s first mountain-climbing cog railway train. My brother insisted that we descend via the train. Luckily for me, my father obliged and shortly after the train started it's descent it began pouring. Although I was cozy in a train cabin watching the rain patter off the windows, I didn't soon forget my realization: the summit is only halfway.
You hear this quite often in the climbing world. The ability to efficiently descend is a crucial skill in regards to staying safe in the vertical world. Just as with standing on top of
Mt. Rainier,
Denali, or
Mt. Everest, getting down off of a rock climb requires the same amount of focus and effort as climbing it, and in a lot of ways requires much more.
Days 5 and 6 of our Rock Guide Course were focused on becoming proficient in our technical descent systems. I was paired up with RMI guide Pete Van Deventer and former RMI guide and current AMGA instructor Jeff Ward, and we traveled over to the Bunny Face Wall of Smith Rocks. On the easy and moderate multi-pitch sport climbs this area had to offer we discussed and practiced rappelling and lowering our climbers: the pro's and con's of each, when and why to use one over the other and a myriad of ways to be more efficient and provide the best experience possible for our climbers. Over the course of the next few days, we climbed a number of different routes and really got the opportunity to apply these techniques in mock guiding scenarios.
When you practice these skills for the first time—or any skill for that matter—it's usually done so in the "best-case scenario.” You start out easy so you can concentrate on the learning. In rock climbing the "best-case scenario" is pretty straightforward and easy to mitigate. Over the next several days of climbing, we learned that the best scenario rarely occurs. As guides, we need to always be prepared for the difficult scenario, and we had the benefit of climbing into some terrain that posed plenty of guiding challenges. This allowed for lots of hands on learning and problem solving. As guides, it's important that we keep our skills sharp and this course was a great reminder that that process truly never ends. 16 years ago I learned that getting to the top is only half way and 16 years later I'm still being reminded of that fact!
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Steve Gately grew up in Boston, MA, and found his love for the mountains in the White Mountains of New Hampshire. In 2012, Steve combined his passion for teaching, climbing, and the mountains when he started guiding for RMI. Steve now guides year round for RMI, from Argentina to Alaska. Steve will be guiding not one, not two, but three trips to
Aconcagua this winter!
Day three of the AMGA Rock Guide Course started a little less comfortably than we had hoped. Our course’s venue was located in the heart of central Oregon and early November often offers a mixed bag of weather. For the four of us who were camping near the park, this meant we awoke to find ourselves shivering and scraping a light layer of frost off of the inside of our tents.
As mountain guides, we often deal with inclement weather, but even our familiarity with discomfort didn’t stop all the grumbling that morning as we made coffee. Luckily for us, our instructor team was equally apprehensive about climbing in freezing temperatures and had called a quick audible. The day’s goals shifted to learning rescue techniques and skills in the ‘comfort’ of a covered cooking space.
After just finishing my first year with RMI, I was excited to see how our in-house rescue training would compare to the official AMGA equivalent. As the morning progressed, the instructor team grew equally excited as it became clear that much of the rescue curriculum was review, albeit, made a bit more difficult by the vertical orientation and the small working zones that the rock environment demands. Despite the cold temps and biting wind, we were able to fly through hauling techniques and knot passes. That morning’s training concretely highlighted for me how well RMI trains their guides. Because of our familiarity with many of the techniques, we were able to open the book and learn a couple new tricks and subtleties that may have otherwise been lost on a less experienced crew.
Once we had mastered new slack management tricks and practiced the variety of haul systems, we changed venues and tried to warm ourselves up with some rope ascending. Ascending is one of those skills that any basic crevasse rescue course will teach you, yet even our most experienced guides were able to walk away with a new trick or two. This again speaks to the level of experience and expertise that our instructors brought to the course.
The day’s training finished with a variety of skills that we will be tested on in our next course. A large part of the AMGA course curriculum is a series of examinations that aspiring guides go through to prove their proficiency. For many, these examinations can be stressful and difficult. However, this course has shown me that as long as I continue to work with the incredible fellow guides and instructors that make up the AMGA and RMI, this will be a process I am excited to continue on.
With my first year at RMI finished and my first AMGA course completed, I am more enthused than ever at the prospect of continuing my education. Without a doubt, my most profound take away from this course has been how much of a pleasure it is to work with professional mountain guides. In all my time in the mountains, I’ve never found a group who equals the enthusiasm and commitment to perfecting their craft that RMI guides have.
Finally, I want to echo Seth’s thanks to RMI for investing in their guides and allowing these courses to happen. I’m already looking forward to my next AMGA course and my next season with RMI!
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Caleb Ladue just finished his first season guiding with RMI. He grew up in Vermont, where he learned to love the mountains for all that they offered, and that passion has taken him throughout the US and to the Peruvian Andes. He'll be hanging his hat in Jackson Hole this winter, and will return to Mt. Rainier in the Spring, excited to share his passion with many more climbers!
Looks super cold! Lucy and Corell are speedy ladies and deceptively strong. No doubt they were climbing up with ease. Love reading each day. Take care of yourselves and super proud of you and the team for taking this on.
Posted by: Kathryn LeBey on 1/21/2015 at 7:03 am
Hola Glen, glad you had a good weather day and did well on the climb to Camp One. All that training is paying off. The limerick was great! How about one for when you reach Camp two? Love, Katalina
Posted by: Katalina on 1/20/2015 at 7:14 pm
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