Entries By adam knoff
Day two of the Ecuador Skills Seminar started well with a healthy breakfast, the thankful arrival of Shannon who missed his Quito connection by a bitter ten minutes no thanks to mad airline boondoggling. He did manage to save the day when he was able to pick up my "lost" duffel, which flew down a day later than I did but must have told Shannon's duffel it was uncool to arrive on time so we are still one bag short for the group.
After our morning rituals were complete it was off to our first mountain which, by most people's standards is no gimme with its summit pushing 15,700 feet. No gimme indeed but a 3,000-foot gondola ride did help our cause. Nick and I keep wondering why we don't have such a luxury to take us to Camp Muir on Mt. Rainier and all we could figure out is because Rucu Pichincha has erupted a few times in the last fifty years, a cable car makes good sense.
The hike went off without a hitch, or major rain event which was forecasted but never materialized and the team enjoyed a great first Ecuadorian summit. Thank you volcano gods!
After the hike we returned to the hotel to pack, rest and prepare for tomorrow's adventure. Everyone is doing great and getting along famously.
Tomorrow we leave the big city for the big mountains. Yippee.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
On The Map
Hello blog followers for the freshly started Ecuador Skills Seminar. Adam Knoff here, I am the team's fearless leader and occasional dispatch sender.
As our group assembled this morning for our first full team meeting, there were no delusions about rule number one of international travel- expect the unexpected. Half of us are still missing bags, one of our team members hasn't even arrived yet and the weather forecast for the next three days looks more unsettled than the streets of Quito.
I am pleased to say despite all these immediate challenges, everyone is in good spirits and excited to face the adventures ahead. But one day at a time right? After breakfast and a nice team orientation meeting, we all piled into a comfy bus and took a roundabout tour of some of Quito's classic sites. From the old town we headed north to the Mitad del Mundo, or middle of the world, for some wacky equator tricks and small history lesson of this magical line.
Now back in the hotel we are resting up for a nice family dinner tonight and our first push to altitude tomorrow.
Stay Tuned.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Today I was surprisingly asked a question that, as far as I can tell, is as old as human curiosity, parental affection and plain ol’ sibling rivalry. This may seem strange because I only have one child, and my somewhat unhinged three wingnut dogs can’t speak and honestly don’t care about the answer as long as they are fed and played with. As you may have guessed, the question so abruptly put on me this morning was: “daddy, who’s your favorite?” Harder to guess was, who asked it?
Things started normally enough; I made breakfast for my kiddo before packing him up and carting him off to preschool. I fed my dogs and chickens, cleaned the kitchen, and prepared for a day of light recreating before my afternoon duties began. It was when I entered the garage, home to my all important man cave and location of all my beloved fly fishing and climbing gear that things took a bizarre turn. Standing in front of me (I kid you not!) side by side, with puppy dog eyes looking up, stood my 12’6” Echo spey rod and my carbon fiber, oh so beautiful, Cobra ice tools. These sorts of things don’t just happen so I double checked my reality button. Dreaming? No I don’t think so. I have been up for three hours, had my coffee, and still felt the throb in my left big toe where I slammed it into the chest at the side of my bed. Ok, I’m awake. Drugged? No, I quit taking hallucinogens in high school and my wife, I think, genuinely cares about me. Then what? My two favorite activities in life, swinging flies for big trout with my spey rod and ice climbing, which is now doable in Bozeman, Montana, have come to a head. With a few free hours, my fishing rod and ice tools came alive and wanted me to pick favorites. Sheeesh! What’s a guy to do?
As time stood still, I began to reflect on the week long steelhead fishing trip I took just two weeks prior to the Grand Rhond, Clearwater, and Snake rivers. Ohhh, the joy of that trip made me quiver. It made me want to reach out, grab my spey rod child and declare my love for him. 28 inch ocean run rainbows on the swing, the thrill of the next hook up, not wearing a heavy pack; the reasons almost overwhelmed me. Yes, yes, you will always be my favorite!!! Then I saw my ice tools. Hyalite Canyon is in! I can’t wait for the thrill of running it out on newly formed thin ice over a stubby ice screw, waking up before the sun, and realizing this day was bound to hold everything but the predictable. Ohh, ice tools, you are my favorite, “let’s go climb something!” I think you understand my dilemma.
Parenting has taught me much in the five years that I’ve been at it. Love, patience and compassion are always at the forefront of dealing with children. Frustrations always arise. Liam spills my wine on the new rug, my spey rod whips bullets at the back of my head leaving welts the size of cheese curds on my scalp, ice tools rip out unexpectedly and send waves of sudden panic through me that make me want to puke. All part of the landscape I guess. So how did I answer the question, “who is your favorite”? Here I leaned on the invaluable lessons gleaned from seven years of blissful marriage. I compromised.
That day I took the ice tools out for their first climb of the season. I packed them up with the rest of my climbing gear all the while psyched I had just promised my fishing rod we would get out tomorrow. It’s a difficult web we weave, balancing work and play. I honestly felt troubled that I had to recreate two days in a row, climbing then fishing, but then again parenting is also about sacrifice.
As readers of the RMI Blog, most of you are probably cracking a smile but are also curious how this story is relevant to the mission of mountain climbing, training, and/or preparing for an upcoming goal. Here is how I connect the dots: Fishing for me is the yin to my climbing yang. It is a glorious mental escape which allows me to shelve my daily stresses and exist purely in the moment. Everyone needs this periodic meditation to reset and clear the mind. For many, exercise accomplishes the same release but regular exercise does not necessarily constitute “training”. The expectations I put on myself when climbing on my own are very high and the specific training schedule I follow can at times be demanding, painful, and sometimes unpleasant. Here is where we tie in sacrifice. Everyone’s life is managed by time. Somewhere on that big round clock is time you can utilize for yourself. If you have a goal of climbing a mountain, running a marathon, or bench pressing a Ford truck, you need to prioritize and then commit! Finding enjoyment and purpose in life comes when these commitments are made. Being a husband and father keep me grounded. Being a passionate climber and guide keep me psyched and motivated, and the hunt for big fish calms me down. In the big picture I think I have found some balance. Remember it takes the black and the white, the yin and the yang, to complete the circle. The web you weave and balance you seek are your own, but seek it with conviction and purpose and you will be just fine.
__________
Adam Knoff is a senior guide at RMI, husband, father, and fish wrangler. A versatile and talented rock, ice, and big mountain climber, Adam has climbed and guided throughout the world, in Alaska, the Himalaya, and in his backyard of Bozeman, MT. Adam is guiding an upcoming Mexico's Volcanoes trip, Expedition Skills Seminar - Ecuador, and will be leading a team on the West Buttress of McKinley next June.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
August 6, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Jake Beren
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Jake Beren led the Four Day Summit Climb August 3 - 6, 2013 to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. They reported a smooth ascent and a beautiful day with barely any wind. The teams began their descent from the crater rim around 7:40 am PT. They will return to Camp Muir to repack before continuing their descent to Paradise.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
Great trip and amazing experience! Look forward to the next one. Great job Adam and Josh.
Posted by: ben on 8/12/2013 at 11:02 am
Thanks Art! and everyone again for an amazing climb
Posted by: Marc Harpster on 8/9/2013 at 4:54 pm
August 2, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Leon Davis
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guide Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning at approximately 7:25 am. Leon reported steady winds from the N/NW at 10-15 mph, cold temperatures and a cloud deck below at 10,000'. The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise led by Adam Knoff also reached the summit this morning. The teams spent approximately one hour on the summit before starting their descent.
Both teams will return to Camp Muir to repack their gear and take a short break before continuing down to Paradise this afternoon. We look forward to seeing them at Rainier BaseCamp later today.
Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
What a Great Experience! Thanks to Leon, Nick, Chase and our team.
Posted by: Fran G on 8/10/2013 at 7:46 am
OUTSTANDING!!!! Way To Go People !!!!
Posted by: Rick Myers on 8/2/2013 at 9:47 pm
August 1, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Today team Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise was relieved to crawl out of our tents to clear skies and warm temps. Last night, directly after arriving in camp after crevasse rescue training we were graced with a purifying rain burst but then rudely interrupted by a brief but intense lightning and thunder storm. It cleared in time for dinner and a peaceful sleep.
After packing up camp this morning, a stimulating walk through a large crevasse field and icy section brought us to Camp Muir at 10,060 feet. Here we will rest and prepare for our summit climb tonight. Folks are happy to be moved into the bunk house here and even happier to hand off some group gear to a guide heading down hill. Yea for lighter packs!
Wish us luck tonight on our climb.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
GO Dusty, Rock-N-Roll brother. Many Blessings.
Posted by: Greg Smith on 8/2/2013 at 7:38 am
Good luck! Hope your climb goes well! Love you!
Posted by: Emma on 8/2/2013 at 6:15 am
July 31, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Leah Fisher
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 8,500'
The Paradise Glacier Seminar is in full effect with loads of exciting training taking place. We have a beautiful camp at 8,500 feet on the Cowlitz Glacier surrounded by steep walls and breathtaking crevasses. Our team is all in great spirits and thriving in what has been described as a high excitement summer camp for aspiring mountain climbers. The weather is not as sunny as the two previous days but at least some of the forest fire smoke has subsided opening up some great views. We are all getting psyched for our move to Camp Muir tomorrow.
Team Paradise sends their best to family and friends.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Climb High Laurel!
Looking forward to hearing about your adventure.
Love you!
Posted by: susan Turnquist on 8/2/2013 at 11:39 am
Hey Laurel!!!
Meg and I are thinking about you up there on the icy mountain. Great group picture! Enjoy the climbing.
We will be praying for a safe ascent tomorrow.
Love you girl!
Posted by: Susan Turnquist on 8/1/2013 at 12:21 pm
A beautiful but smoky morning at our first camp on the Paradise Glacier. Yesterday the team did great getting here. Today we move camp to 8,500 feet on the Cowlitz Glacier where we will spend the next few days training before our summit attempt.
RMI Guide Adam Knoff
Hey Eric, congratulations and way to go! You and your family never cease to amaze me with your multi-talentm. Very impressed, very inspiring!
Kimi and your team at MS
Posted by: Kimi Sato on 8/7/2013 at 8:02 am
Go Lew. I see your toe sticking out of that tent. Make sure you eat your veggies. Guess your singing “Climb the Highest Mountain”.
Posted by: Uncle Jake on 8/1/2013 at 8:28 am
July 26, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Solveig Waterfall, Mike Haugen, Win Whittaker
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb teams led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Solveig Waterfall reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. The teams reported warm temperatures with winds at about 15 mph. They spent over an hour on the summit enjoying the views before beginning their descent back to Camp Muir.
After a week of Denali Prep training, Mike Haugen and the Expedition Skills Seminar – Kautz team also reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning with 100% of their team. They have started their descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon.
The American Lung Association Climb for Clean Air is ascending to Camp Muir today with Win Whittaker as their lead guide. He sent us a photo of the team's climbing school from yesterday. What beautiful weather the teams have been climbing in!
Awesome!! Congrats everyone! :)
Posted by: Elise on 7/26/2013 at 11:43 am
July 1, 2013
Posted by: Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Four Day Summit Climb led by RMI Guides Adam Knoff and Rob Montague reached the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. The team spent about an hour on the summit before starting their descent back to Camp Muir. While on the summit, the team experienced a dense cloud cap, decreasing visibility to about 100ft. Summit winds were 20-30 mph and the temperature is warm.
We look forward to seeing the teams at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.
Congratulations to today's Summit Climb Teams!
What an accomplishment! Great stuff. You make us proud!
Posted by: David Caudle on 7/1/2013 at 10:59 am
Congratulations Markus!!! On the way down, be on the lookout for any angry birds, even the ones that look only slightly irritated.
Posted by: Moira Street on 7/1/2013 at 10:14 am
Hey Shannon—Good luck and safe hiking…Bush
Posted by: Bush on 1/14/2014 at 4:51 am
Hope you are all well. Love Dad.
Posted by: Nick Boekenoogen on 1/9/2014 at 8:06 pm
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