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RMI Expeditions Blog


Denal Expedition: Weather Turns Champion and Team

Short and sweet dispatch for now. We didn't get the summit window weather we were hoping for, so we packed up and headed down to basecamp. Now we are sitting in the snow, seeing if we can fly.

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Team Stand On Top

The Four-Day climbs led by Eric Frank and Jack Delaney reach the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning. Lead Guide Eric Frank reported a gorgeous day and some of the best weather he's had in recent years.

The teams were starting their descent this morning around 9:30AM PT and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon. Nice work!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

Is the Ingraham Direct route still open?
Thanks!!!
Gabe

Posted by: Gabe Geers on 6/1/2023 at 4:45 pm


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team Return to Airstrip Ready for Return Flight

Thursday, June 1, 2023 - 8:25 am PT

We made it to base camp! We had a smooth, though sticking with the theme of the trip, pretty white walk out to Base camp. We got in in the early afternoon relieved to be done pulling our sleds and shouldering heavy packs. The clouds didn't promise much for flying out, but we stayed hopeful and lounged on our packs and sleds. We had left ourselves some celebratory materials and we enjoyed those. A few clearing trends and blue skies gave us hope a few times but by 8pm we accepted that we would have another night in tents and set then up, made a last dinner of burritos, and crawled back into sleeping bags. We are happy to have done our part now. No more packs or sleds, just waiting for weather to cooperate. And it is so much warmer, and easier to breathe down here! 

Hopefully weather let's us fly off soon!

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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So relieved you are on the final leg.  Congratulations, Brian and team!

Posted by: Lettie Kirk Goltry on 6/1/2023 at 11:13 am


Denali Expedition: Smith & Team Make Difficult Decision to Descend

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 10:50 pm PT

Hello trusty readers,

Sorry for the gap in dispatches. Things got a little busy with logistics. We took two rest days at 14,000' Camp figuring out weather and logistics on who wanted to continue up and who wanted to go down. With weather being finicky most of the team decided to focus on getting off the mountain. For those that desired uphill movement it was the weather we needed to figure out. After many ominous forecast with only small windows of calm we decided our best option was to stay together as a team and make our way down the mountain. Its always a hard decision to go down, especially when you still have time. But sometimes, the cards just aren't in your favor. It's been a great trip even without the summit. We have made it back to 11,000' Camp and are taking a quick nap before we make our way to the airstrip. Tomorrow is suppose to be the best weather day so figures crossed we make it off the glacier.

Goodnight all,

RMI Guides Hannah, Devin, Erika, and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Hannah and Team,
That is a bummer but like you have always said, “its about the experience!”

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 6/2/2023 at 4:01 am

To go as far as all the teams went is to say they made it to the top…like many who expressed…thank you for your wisdom in playing it safe. So impressed. Bethany ...you did a spectacular display of strength and determination and so many have expressed how inspired they are of your accomplishments. Looking forward to hearing details.
Love M❤M

Posted by: Jan L. Gray on 6/1/2023 at 2:25 pm


Mt. Rainier: Halliday & Emmons Seminar Team Reach Summit

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Emmons May 27 - 1 June, led by RMI Guide Alex Halliday reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today!  Alex reported cold and windy conditions from the summit so the team did not spend much time on top. They will return to Camp Schurman for their third and final night on the mountain.  The team will continue their descent to the trail head tomorrow and return to Rainier BaseCamp tomorrow afternoon. 

Congratulations to the Emmons Seminar Team!

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Teams Reach the Summit

RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Bryan Mazaika led the Four Day Climb May 28 - 31, 2023 to the summit of Mt. Rainier today.  The teams enjoyed over an hour in the summit crater before starting their descent from the crater rim shortly before 9 am. Conditions above Camp Muir were clear and sunny with a cloud deck below near 7,500'.  Climbers will make a quick stop at Camp Muir and then continue to Paradise. We look forward to seeing them back at Rainier BaseCamp this afternoon.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations on your climb!!! We are so impressed!!! We hope you took lots of pictures and can’t wait to hear your stories! We are so proud of you all!!!

Posted by: Karen and David Erickson on 6/1/2023 at 10:22 am

Congratulations!! So proud of your determination!!

Posted by: Tammy Wilkosz on 5/31/2023 at 12:29 pm


Denali Expedition: Champion & Team Face Tough Decision, To Go Up or Down

Tuesday, May 30, 2023 - 10:55 pm PT

Yet another weather day, we woke up to snow covered tents and cold temperatures. We had our final bagel meal of the trip, paired with smoked salmon. As we sat in and out of the clouds, and snowfall we waited for the other RMI teams to descend from 17,000' Camp. Tomorrow morning marks a decision point. We need a three day weather window to open up before Thursday for us, otherwise we run out of food at 14,000' Camp, and then have to go retrieve our cache from 16,300' and then eat our summit food. Leaving us out of food if a summit window did open up later. Tomorrow morning we should have clarity if Wednesday, Thursday, Friday will be a viable option. The other tricky component is a very large system seems to be slated to hit the mountain Friday, bringing more snow and more wind. This storm could run it's course as late as next Tuesday or so. Leaving us completely out of food by the time weather improves. All that said, with an updated forecast tomorrow morning we may make the call to either go for it, or to grab the cache and get out so we don't get stuck for the entire storm. We will check in tomorrow with whatever we hear!

RMI Guide Nikki Champion

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Proud of you Matt and team for all you have accomplished!

Posted by: Kathleen George on 6/1/2023 at 2:56 pm

Positive vibes headed your way for a good weather window!  Keep it up Dawn, you got this!!

Posted by: Kendyl on 6/1/2023 at 4:47 am


Denali Expedition: Van Deventer & Team On Descent to Airstrip

Wednesday, May 31, 2023 - 1:28 am PT

Denali's 17,000' Camp is a necessary evil. It's not particularly pleasant to exist there, even when it's nice out. With our objective secured yesterday, we were all ready to get out of that high and forlorne place. We set out today to get as far from 17,000' Camp as we could. We descended the West Buttress, down the fixed lines to 14,000' Camp. After some socializing with the other teams at 14,000'. We set our goal again with the intention of getting to 11,000ft. It has been snowing quite a bit since we passed these locations. There was a good boot track in, but there was well over 12 inches of new snow blanketing the Polo Field and Windy Corner. We'll wake up early and rally to the airstrip with the hope that we can fly first thing tomorrow. Fingers crossed. Snow camping is fun, especially at altitude, but all anyone can talk about is beer and burgers, and it is time for a shower and feeling warm once again.

RMI Guide Pete Van Deventer

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Mt. Rainier: Five Day Climbs Reach Summit

RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier & Ben Luedtke led their Five Day Climb teams to the summit of Mt. Rainier this morning.  Dustin reported broken clouds and light to moderate winds as the teams were ascending the Ingraham Direct early this morning.  The teams enjoyed some time in the crater before beginning their descent.  The climbers will return to Camp Muir for a short rest and to pack their gear before descending the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later today.

Congratulations to today's climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations all!  Excited to follow in your footsteps this weekend!

Posted by: Keith on 5/30/2023 at 4:27 pm

Congratulations to Devin and the team.  Can’t wait to hear about the adventure!

Posted by: Karm on 5/30/2023 at 9:53 am


Denali Expedition: Walter & Team Reach Summit!

The RMI May 7th Denali Expedition led by RMI Guide Mike Walter, reached the summit of Denali Monday May 29th. The team has safely returned to their 17,000' and will continue their descent to the airstrip over the next few days.

Congratulations to all the climbers!

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Hey Mike, Just wanted to say Hello from your old friend The Leprechaun. I made life long friends on that trip. Hope your still laughing.

Posted by: DAVID E WOODS on 3/26/2024 at 10:58 am

Mike Walter:  How many consecutive summits is this for you on Denali?!  Congratulations!

Posted by: Lee Hoedl on 6/22/2023 at 10:08 am

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