Entries from Everest BC Trek
The evenings clouds lifted over night and morning broke with clear skies above Namche. The Kongde massif, sitting directly across the valley shimmered with freshly fallen snow. As we emerged from our sleeping bags the sounds of the waking village seeped in through the thin teahouse walls. Chickens, dogs, and the bells of yaks and dzopkyos combined with the cries of children preparing for school and the faint tinking of stone masons beginning their day's work laboriously carving the stone into finely crafted blocks for the growing number of lodges being built in Namche.
Built in a horse shoe shaped bowl tucked into the hillside above the confluence of the Bhote Valley and the main Khumbu Valley, Namche is the largest village in the Khumbu and a cultural and trade center for the region. Vegetables and fresh goods are brought up from further down the valley while every summer Tibetan traders bring goods on yak over the passes further up to trade here. The town is built into a steep hillside and the tiny streets that criss-cross throughout are built of stone and plied by locals, trekkers, traders, yaks, and dogs alike. It is a bust, vibrant, and exciting place. This morning was Namche weekly market when locals from the nearby village come to purchase goods and after breakfast we wandered among the blankets of goods laid out on a series of terraces on the edges of town. Everything from fresh grapes and tangerines to chickens, peanuts, batteries, and cases of Red Bull were for sale there, offering a fascinating and often amusing scene.
After exploring the market we climbed to a shallow saddle to the east of Namche where the National Park headquarters, army post, and museum of the Park are located. From the knoll where they sit we caught our first view of the Everest panorama further up the valley. Already starting to hide among the clouds by midmorning, we caught occasional views of the recognizable summit pyramid, flying it's trademark plume of snow as the jet winds whipped across its summit. Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam were also visible, standing tall above the valley floor further up.
Visiting a few more museums in the area, we passed the rest of the morning looking at collections of Sherpa mountaineering history, photographs, and visiting a traditional Sherpa home. The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Namche, exploring the towns narrow streets of hand laid stone, browsing the stalls of shops selling traditional jewelry and shawls along with knock off brand name down coats and climbing gear both new and old.
Tomorrow we will take a day hike above Namche to several villages nearby, stretching our legs and hopefully catching more views of the mountains up the valley.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Yesterday's afternoon clouds cleared overnight and it was a warm, beautiful morning here in the Khumbu. Leaving our teahouse in Phakding we wound our way up the valley, traversing above the raging Dudh Kosi on steep hillsides that descend thousands of feet from the peaks above. Wherever the terrain offers a break small terraces have been carved into the hillsides and with spring arriving here in the lower Khumbu the fields of wheat and vegetables are starting to sprout while along the trail the cherry, magnolia, and rhododendron trees are in full bloom. We walked through the fields and villages, crossing back and forth from one side of the valley to the other on swaying suspension bridges that stretch above the milky blue water below, and soaking in the spring bloom along the way.
By midday we officially entered into Sagarmatha National Park, the park that bears Everest's Nepali name. Just past the Park entrance the trail emerges from the villages and green fields of the lower Khumbu and begins to climb to Namche Bazaar. A strong breeze was blowing up the valley when we crossed the suspension bridge at the base of the climb and the hundreds of prayer flags and white kata scarves stretched along it flapped in the wind, distracting us from the void in between the slats at our feet that stretched between us and the river hundreds of feet below.
The hill up to Namche is the first big climb of the trip, gaining over 2,000' from the valley floor to where Namche sits. In a series of switchbacks and long traverses we made our way upwards, staying well clear of the trains of dzopkyos - yak/cow hybrids favored at these lower elevations - that came barreling down the hill without much concern for those in their path. It was a healthy climb but felt good to put our heads down and climb for a bit.
Despite the spring temperatures lower in the valley a glance around the mountains above revealed fresh snow and as we arrived into Namche light flurries of snow blew in, at times blowing uphill as the flakes were buffeted by the swirling winds at the confluence of the two valleys. With tired legs we retreated to the teahouse, content to watch the low hanging clouds play amongst the peaks across the valley.
It has been a great day of walking and the team is settling into trail life well. We are spending the weekend in Namche, visiting the Saturday morning market tomorrow and exploring some of the surrounding villages as we acclimatize before going higher.
-RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Linden,
I am enjoying your posts. This sounds like a great adventure and I wish I was there. Say hello and give my best to Tim McLaughlin. Have a blast!
Rory
Posted by: Rory Robertson on 3/26/2011 at 6:55 pm
Linden,
enjoying following your progress on the blog…you write well…a nice tribute to Holderness (even if you never took English from me!!) Be safe and have fun…R
Posted by: Richard Parker on 3/26/2011 at 4:59 am
The streets of Kathmandu were hardly waking up when we reached the airport this morning, unloading our duffel bags outside of the the domestic terminal in the pre dawn darkness. By the time the morning sun found us, burning as an orange orb just above the eastern horizon, we were loading into a Twin Otter turbo prop plane, a STOL airplane - Short Take Off Landing - capable of landing at Lukla's narrow strip.
Besides some turbulence as we turned into the Khumbu Valley the flight was uneventful, a fact duly noted and much appreciated when flying a tiny airplane into a mountain airstrip like Lukla. Perched at a 10 degree angle and hardly more than several hundred meters long, the Lukla Airstrip is guaranteed to raise your heart rate - the plane touches down bearing full speed toward the hillside at the end of the strip, the brakes are slammed on and the engines roar as the air brakes fire, the plane decelerating from airborne to parked within a matter of seconds. It's exciting to say the least.
By 8:00 am this morning we were all safely in Lukla and we hit the trail shortly thereafter. To say that Kathmandu to Lukla is a change of pace is an understatement. Within minutes we looked at each other remarking at the novelty of hearing birds in the background, not taxi horns. The trail meanders down from Lukla among several villages, eventually reaching the base of the valley where we joined the banks of the Dudh Kosi - the Milky River named for the glacial sediment flowing in it. The trail is really the highway of the Khumbu, a boulevard of hand laid stone a few meters wide, that links the different villages. Passing by front yards bordered by small gates, past teahouses and chortens - Buddhist stupas and flapping prayer flags. Although the distance we covered today was relatively short compared to the days ahead, it felt full by the time we reached Phakding from all of the daily going ons of the Khumbu we saw.
We reached the teahouse as the clouds built in the sky. Before we could do anything we threw in our backs to help the teahouse owners raise their Chotra - a pine truck a dozen meters high that flies vertical prayer flags and serves as the entrance to most houses and compounds in the Khumbu. With a dozen locals, a few ladders and long poles, we managed to raise the Chotra to a vertical position and plant it in the ground. It was an entertaining way to be welcomed into the Khumbu.
We've spent the afternoon at the teahouse, watching periods of afternoon rain blow in. Tomorrow we climb to Namche Bazaar, the major trade center and biggest town of the region where we will spend a few days acclimatizing and exploring the surrounding area.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
We spent our first full morning here in Kathmandu in the Yak & Yeti’s gardens, enjoying rare clear skies here in Kathmandu while discussing the final trip details, logistics, and equipment review. By midday our bags were sorted, our climbing gear and trekking gear separated and repacked in preparation for the mountains.
After finishing we plunged ourselves into Kathmandu’s maze of streets to visit some of the city’s most famous destinations. First visiting the Boudhanath Stupa, one of the largest Buddhist Temples in Kathmandu and the starting place for any pilgrimage taken by Nepali’s practicing Tibetan Buddhism. The sprawling stupa is alive with devotees circumnavigating its base, softly chanting while spinning the hundreds of prayer wheels lining the stupa walls.
We next ventured to the hills to the east of Kathmandu’s center where Sawayambu sits, known as the Monkey Temple for the hundreds of monkeys that call the stupa home. Today the afternoon heat kept the monkeys in the shade, the younger ones choosing to wrestle and swim in the small fountain near the stupa’s base. From the Money Temple the clear skies afforded us amazingly clear views across the city. From above Kathmandu’s complicated web of streets takes on an amazingly orderly look, the faint sound of horns being the only indication of the chaos below.
At last we dove into the very heart of Kathmandu’s center, Durbar Square – literally the Palace Square that has been the center of Kathmandu for centuries. There, ancient Hindu temples crowd the streets, each with it’s own story and significance in the city’s heritage. Milling throughout are vendors of fruits and vegetables along with those hawking souvenirs to the tourist. It is a wildly busy and exciting place yet remarkably intimate given it’s cultural and historical prominence for Kathmandu and all of Nepal.
After a full day of packing and taking in the sites we returned to the hotel as the sun sank lower in the hills. We head to Kathmandu’s domestic airport tomorrow for an early morning flight out of Kathmandu and into the Khumbu.
- RMI Guide Linden Mallory
LOVE Following the blog! Its awesome that you are there, what an amazing adventure! Soak it up!
Posted by: Nicole McLaughlin on 3/26/2011 at 9:06 am
Saw your picture—Karen, you are not dressed for a mountain! More like sightseeing! MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/23/2011 at 4:53 pm
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Dubai, Doha, Hong Kong, Bangkok - flights landed at Kathmandu from across the world as RMI's Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak team arrived today. With the crossing of the International Date Line travel to Nepal from the U.S. typically takes three days. Plunging into the melee of Kathmandu's streets after days spent in planes and airport waiting areas is a shock to the senses. Holy men and sacred cows wandered amidst the idling cars next to Pashputinath Temple, a sacred Hindu Temple and the traditional cremation site of the Nepalese Royal Family that sits next to the airport. Further on we navigated between the bicycle fruit vendors selling bundles of bananas along the streets and into the narrow roads near Kathmandu's center, at last reaching the Yak and Yeti, our hotel tucked off of Durbar Marg - Kathmandu's busy commercial strip.
By late afternoon everyone arrived and the remainder of the day was spent resting from the days of travel. It was an amazingly clear day in Kathmandu, with occasional views to the 17,000' snow capped peaks just outside of the city. With the sun setting on the hills that ring Kathmandu, we gathered for dinner here at the Yak and Yeti, at last sitting down as a team. Sharing a few Everest beers, we caught up on our various past climbing pursuits and hopes for our upcoming adventures in the Khumbu. We are excited to explore Kathmandu before we depart for the Khumbu.
After a morning spent reviewing our trip logistics and discussing the equipment needed for our adventures, we will head out and see several of Kathmandu's most well known sites in the afternoon, visiting the former Newari Royal Palaces as well as several well known Budhhist Stupas in the city.
- RMI Guide Linden Mallory
wow, i am so excited for all of you…look at my handsome nephew…mark!!!
you all take care and enjoy every moment of your lives…life for the now.
auntie car car
Posted by: carla henrie on 3/23/2011 at 10:47 am
Dear Dave Hahn
My name is Filip and I am 13 years old, I chose you as my hero for my project at school. Only one other person knew who you are, so I had to tell them all about you, and what you do. I just wanted to let you know that I really hope you make it to the top again and if not that’s ok. As my mom says there is always a next time. My mom promised me that she will take me with her to climb Rainier next year when i turn 14 and I hope to meet you there. I will be checking on this blog how you are doing I told my class. I hope you will stay healthy, happy and have a lot of good luck all the way around!
Filip
Posted by: Filip Atsidacos on 3/23/2011 at 7:45 am
After a final long day of walking we at last reached the end of the road today, arriving back at Lukla by late afternoon. With clear skies greeting us this morning we left Namche and dropped down the steep and dusty Namche Hill to the banks of the Dudh Kosi. Retracing our first days of walking several weeks ago, we wound our way along the river, through villages and fields of wheat and barley. With many miles under our feet already, and the altitude finally on our side, we made good time, quickly covering the miles between Namche and Lukla. The final hour was spent climbing the long but gentle ascent back into Lukla, arriving tired but happy, we sat down to a treat of apple struddel at our favorite bakery here in celebration of completing the trek.
The clouds have settled in on Lukla but a good forecast is issued for tomorrow. With luck we will hope on our plane first thing in the morning and be back in Kathmandu shortly thereafter!
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek
Despite the dark and heavy rain clouds that engulfed Lukla last night, the morning broke clear and sunny. After a quick breakfast we made our way to the airstrip in Lukla, sorted our bags into the proper piles, and awaited our airplane to arrive. By midmorning we were strapped into our seats, shooting down the small run way of Lukla and bound for Kathmandu.
Tonight is the Nepali New Year's Eve and Kathmandu is strangely quiet and busy in preparation for the holiday. We arrived back at the Yak and Yeti several hours ago and are enjoying some down time, showers, and fresh clothes.
It has been a long and exciting adventure here in Nepal and the team is pleased to be back. We look forward to seeing everyone at home soon.
Namaste from Namche Bazaar,
After a much deserved night's rest we left Chukung early this morning, leaving the high glacial moraines of the Imja Khola and making our way down the valley. Our good fortune with the weather continued, despite menacing clouds that rolled in yesterday evening. The morning was clear and warm, giving us amazing views of the mountains as we walked.
We soon left the cold reaches of over 15,000' and descended into a world of color again, first passing juniper and other short green shrubs, then into forest of pines, and finally into a riot of blooming rhododendron trees that accompanied us all the way to Namche - it is a far cry from the ice and rock of the Khumbu Glacier and Island Peak.
After over a week and a half in the high thin air of 14,000'+ the sudden immersion into blooming vegetation, thick air (and we're still at over 11,000'!), and the seemingly bustling streets of Namche has been notable. In Namche we treated ourselves to hot showers and an excellent meal. Despite a long day today the group is in fine spirits, happy to be making our way downhill and looking forward to making our way back to Kathmandu. Tomorrow we hike out to Lukla where we plan to catch an early morning flight back to Kathmandu the following day.
Hi, this is Linden calling in with a dispatch from Chukung.
What a day!
We woke this morning about 2 a.m. The winds that were bothering us yesterday afternoon had died down to just a whisper. We had a quick climbers breakfast and headed off up the mountain. We climbed and watched the moon rise over Makalu followed shortly by the sun. Sunrise caught us right at the base of the glacier. We kept climbing up the glacier to the base of the headwall. The team made great work ascending the 800 or so vertical feet of the fixed line, despite some adverse conditions. Everyone handled it well.
About nine in the morning were standing on the top of Island Peak. The entire team made the summit. We had the entire summit to ourselves, even though it's only about the size of a ping-pong table. After a few celebratory photos we headed back down the fixed line, to the glacier and back to High Camp. We packed up High Camp and walked all the way to Chukung. We arrived just before the last rays of sunlight disappeared. We dropped into our tea house tired, hungry but very happy.
We plan to walk to Namche tomorrow and arrive in Lukla the following day.
Hi, this is Linden checking in with the Island Peak Team from High Camp on Island Peak.
We packed up camp this morning and climbed to just shy of 18,000', to our High Camp here on Island Peak. We are camped about 1,500' feet below the glacier and will have some more moderate rock scrambling to get up to the approach to the climb.
We went up this afternoon to get the route fixed in. Everything looks good and we are planning to leave tomorrow morning about 3 a.m. for our summit bid. Our plan is to climb to the summit of Island Peak and then descend to High Camp and Base Camp and head back to Chukung.
We will give a call tomorrow night from Chukung hopefully with good news. We had a little bit of wind today so keep your fingers crossed that it will hold off until we are back at High Camp. The team is doing well and everyone is excited for the climb. We are about to head off to bed and we'll check in again tomorrow.
Previous Page
Next Page
wow, i wish i was there with all of you…more pictures??? auntie car car
Posted by: carla henrie on 3/26/2011 at 4:32 pm
View All Comments