Entries from Everest BC Trek
The group was up early this morning, despite encountering the coldest temperatures of the trip thus far - our water bottles lightly icing up even in the teahouse. However, we quickly shook off the cold within a few minutes of starting off, warming up as we walked out of Lobuche. An hour's walk brought us to the edge of the Khangri Glacier, a tributary flowing into the main Khumbu Glacier just to our side. We climbed up the moraine of the Khangri and began the weaving traverse over its rock strewn surface, climbing up and down over the uneven terrain. Part way through we reached a high point and we're treated to fantastic views further up the valley, even catching glimpses of the tents at Everest BC.
By late morning we reached our teahouse at Gorak Shep, the last cluster of buildings before BC. We paused for a cup of tea and after refilling our bottles we set out to climb Kala Patar, a rocky outcropping that sits across the valley from Everest. The team climbed very strongly, the benefits of our acclimatization over the past ten days clearly visible, and within a couple of hours we reached Kala Patar's prayer flag strewn summit. At 18,500' Kala Patar has phenomenal views looking down over Everest BC and the Khumbu Icefall as well as to its summit, the Hillary Step, South Summit, South Col, and part of the Lhotse Face. In addition to Everest, we could see over the Lho La Pass to Changatse in Tibet as well as south down the valley, picking out the peaks of Tamserku, Katenga, and Ama Dablam which we walked past earlier.
Despite the clear skies and amazing views the winds were blowing strongly and we were forced to raise our voices to be heard over the fluttering prayer flags. The temperature was quite cold with the wind and before too long we set off back down the trail, returning to Gorak Shep where a late lunch of soup and tea helped rewarm us.
We've spent the remainder of the afternoon relaxing in Gorak Shep. We had a great day and are thrilled to have had such great weather and views from Kala Patar. Tomorrow we cover the final stretch to Everest Base Camp where we will spend a couple of nights sleeping on the ice in RMI's Everest Expedition camp. We will check in tomorrow from BC.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from the Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak Team. I am calling from Gorak Shep up here at about 17,000’ along the edges of the Khumbu Glacier. This is the last town before we reach Basecamp tomorrow.
It’s an absolutely gorgeous night here in the Himalaya. We had a wonderful day today we left Lobuche early this morning and walked up the valley crossing over the Tonkhu Glacier which is a little tributary glacier from the main Khumbu Glacier. We arrived into Gorak Shep about mid morning.
Our main objective for the day was a climb of Kala Patar. It’s across the valley from Everest about 18,500’. After arriving in Gorak Shep we grabbed some tea, filled our water bottles and set off. The team climbed phenomenally well. It was really quite impressive. All the time we spent acclimatizing certainly paid off in spades.
We got up to Kala Patar by mid day and we just had incredible views across the valley of Everest. We could see the summit, Hillary Step, the south summit, all the way down to the South Col. Looking down on the upper portion of the Lhotse face. We could also see over to Lolok Pass over to Xingatzi which is sitting in Tibet. It was pretty neat to be able to see over the boarder. We could also see down the valley toward Ama Dablam and the peaks that we walked by the first few days of our trek.
So after hanging out up there for a little bit we motored back down to our tea house here in Gorak Shep and spent the afternoon just hanging out and resting and adjusting to the altitude. 17,000’ is definitely pretty high and we are all feeling it. Again the team is doing really well and we are all having a great time.
The plan tomorrow is to leave Gorak Shep and walk the final couple of miles into Basecamp and set up shop there for the next couple of nights.
We will try to push out some photos. The connection this high up the valley is spotty at best but I’ll do my best to get some photos and more write ups out to you guys. If not we’ll check in tomorrow from Basecamp. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Gorak Shep
On The Map
Hey Bill and Sarah,
Lisa gave me this link to your blog. Really enjoying following along. It brings back great memories of my trek into base camp. I gave Lisa a prayer flag that I brought back from Nepal to hang at your house until your return. I’ll be praying to the weather gods for good weather for an ascent. Keep safe and warm. Can’t wait to hear more.
Clay
Posted by: Clay Rolader on 4/3/2011 at 5:41 am
Hi Tim! I have finally been found by the chest cold that everyone has had. Papa and I are a few days into it. I am totally living through your notes and pictures! I can imagine the cold clear air as you take each rest step. Sounds like you are with a wonderful group! I just adore Linden’s descriptions. I almost feel as if I were there. Please thank him for that. Honey, I love you and miss your sweet face every day. I go in the closet and smell your shirts! Pathetic, I know! I don’t care! I will be paying my bills sometime today, and then looking at making your boat and building payments. Every one is making this as easy for me as possible. Tom has checked in, skip and cass have both been here. You are missed! I love you! A&F Deb
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/2/2011 at 10:21 am
The other guests in the teahouse joined us in singing Mark a Happy Birthday last night when Ang Nuru brought out the chocolate cake. Blowing out the candles, Mark served us all delicious slices of cake, a nice treat before we turned in for the evening.
This morning again broke calm and clear, the shadows keeping the temperatures brisk until the sun climbed high enough to peek over the mountains surrounding mountains and reach the valley floor. Leaving Pheriche, we climbed up the gentle valley bottom, passing dozens of yaks grazing among the stunted bushes. Several yak trains came streaming down the trail, the yaks unburdened by their loads left at Base Camp and eager to descend to the better pastures around Pheriche.
By late morning we finished the climb up to Thukla Pass where the trail climbs from the valley floor up the terminal morraine of the Khumbu Glacier - the giant pile of debris several thousand feet tall that was pushed forward by the Khumbu Glacier as it descended from the higher peaks above. The pass, not a true saddle but a shoulder we pass over that gives access to the shallow valley that runs along the side of the glacier, is also where dozens and dozens of chortens and memorials have been erected over the years for climbers, Sherpa and Western alike, who have lost their lives in the peaks above. Standing among the chortens and streaming prayer flags while gazing out at the surrounding peaks above is a sobering yet spectacular sight and we all took a moment to ourselves to sit there and appreciate it.
Continuing on from Thokla Pass we ascended a shallow valley that sits between the mountains to the west and the lateral morraine of the Khumbu Glacier - the debris pushed along by the sides of the Glacier. We reached our teahouse in Lobuche by early afternoon and withdrew from the chilly breeze and harsh sun of these altitudes, sitting in the dining room and gazing out at the peaks across the valley. Lobuche is quite rustic compared to the villages below, formerly a summer grazing area for yaks and now also home to a few teahouses for trekkers and climbers. At over 16,000' it is also very high and we spent the afternoon relaxing in the teahouse, sipping tea, reading, and giving our bodies time to adjust to the new elevations.
The team continues to do well, we are all having a great time and excited to be so close to Everest Base Camp. Tomorrow we will move to Gorak Shep, the final village before BC and if the weather is good make an afternoon climb to Kala Patar, an overlook at over 18,000' that give us views over BC and to Everest.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Despite moving to 14,000' yesterday, we all slept soundly in Ang Nuru's lodge here in Pheriche and the clear morning revealed the stunning panorama of peaks that we find ourselves amidst. With a day to hike and acclimatize here around Pheriche we left the teahouse and began ascending tight switchbacks up a ridge to the north of the village. Quickly gaining altitude, we were able to catch our first views of Island Peak, known locally as Imja Tse as we looked to the east up the Imja Khola valley below us.
Standing proudly around Island Peak rose Makalu, Baruntse, Ama Dablam, Lhotse, and Lhotse Shar, creating a grand panorama surrounding the mountain. Focusing our attention back on the trail, we continued uphill, eventually reaching the rocky outcropping Nangkar Tshang at over 16,500'. It felt good to push our bodies to these new altitudes and the team climbed wonderfully, moving smoothly up and back down the steep hillsides above Pheriche. As we stood on the summit, looking out at the views around us and watching the clouds gradually roll up the valley from far below, three Himalayan Eagles soared past us. It was an incredible sight to see, these massive birds playing in the thermals at such altitudes. We watched them fly back and forth before gradually moving up the valley.
We returned to the teahouse in the afternoon, just as the clouds rolled in. Legs tired after a solid day of walking, we kicked back in the dining room and relaxed for the rest of the afternoon. Today is Mark's birthday and unbeknown to him Karen has convinced Ang Nuru to prepare a birthday cake up here for him, we are looking forward to surprising him with it this evening.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Great pictures! Exciting to follow your journey everyday. Be safe, my love to you and Sara
Posted by: Phylis Whitehead on 4/1/2011 at 3:46 am
Nice to see you looking good . we love the pictures. happy to see you are having fun. keep safe,
love,
Scott & Annette
Posted by: Scott & Annette Sanders on 3/31/2011 at 8:28 pm
Leaving Deboche this morning we walked through the last of the rhododendron and pine trees of the Khumbu, climbing higher into the valley where only small shrubs and juniper grow. We crossed back over the Dudh Kosi river on a narrow bridge and walked past rows upon rows of Mani stones and chortens, eventually reaching the small village of Pangboche. There, we paid a visit to Lama Geshe, the renown spiritual leader. Chanting in his native tongue of Tibetan, he blessed us on our journey into the mountains, writing a letter to Chomolungma, the goddess of Everest, requesting safe passage for us. Finally, laughing a deep soulful laugh each time he pronounced our anglophone names, he strung a small red string and then kata scarf around our necks, before wishing us good luck.
The day remained clear and we had wonderful views of Ama Dablam soaring above us as left Pangboche, climbing further up the valley towards the impressive south face of Lhotse. Eventually, we reached a split in the valley, where the rivers diverge, one coming from Island Peak and the other from Everest's Khumbu Glacier. Following the Dudh Kosi towards Everest, we climbed up and over a shallow pass on the trail before dropping into the village of Pheriche. There Ang Nuru, a vibrant and energetic sherpa happily welcomed us into his teahouse, making us comfortable in the wonderfully decorated dining room.
In the afternoon we strolled over the the Himalayan Rescue Association's Pheriche Clinic and listened to a discussion on altitude by the western doctors here. Tim bravely volunteered to climb into the Gamow Bag, a portable hyperbaric chamber, where the staff of the HRA pumped it up and brought Tim down to an elevation of less than 9,000' below Lukla where we started the trek. It was a quick ascent back to 14,000' when he emerged!
The team is doing very well and excited to be here. Tomorrow we are going for a day hike above Pheriche and then returning to the teahouse to celebrate Mark's birthday. We are sending our best to everyone at home.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Good luck McGahan’s, and have a fun, safe climb. My best to Bill, and good luck on the projects Sara
Dan Catan and family
Posted by: Dan Catan on 4/2/2011 at 9:14 am
HAPPY 50th BIRTHDAY DAD! I hope y’all are having a gorgeous day on the mountain. I’m so proud of you! Love, Chelsea.
Posted by: Chelsea Miller on 3/31/2011 at 12:02 pm
The low lying clouds lifted overnight and the landscape was a brilliant white this morning, yesterday's fresh snow reflecting the morning sun with such intensity we found ourselves squinting when merely sitting near the teahouse windows. Over breakfast we looked out up the valley, across the rhododendron trees and roofs of Deboche all covered in snow, to the summits of Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam above. The winds continued to whip the summits of Everest and Lhotse, both peaks flying long white plumes from their tops.
With a relaxed agenda for the day, we wandered through the trees of Deboche to the small convent here where two of the nuns happily showed us inside of their gompa, doing their best to answer our various questions about the paintings, relics, and scriptures inside. We then climbed back up the hill above our teahouse to the Tengboche Monastery, admiring the panorama around us, with views from Namche all the way up to Everest. Following a small path above the Monastery, we climbed further up the ridge, passing lines of chortens and strings of prayer flags strung by the monks, until we could look down on the buildings below.
With the afternoon clouds already building, we spent a few hours in Tengboche visiting the small museum and outlying buildings of the Monastery, reading, sipping tea, and swapping humorous stories. At three in the afternoon several monks blew their horns from the front terraces of the Monastery, signaling the beginning of afternoon prayers. We quietly removed our shoes and found a seat around the edge of their prayer room, listening to the half dozen monks present recite their prayers, their deep voices rising and descending in unison, pausing occasionally - and all at the exact same instant - to sip their tea before continuing on. The chamber, incredibly decorated with murals, ornate paintings on every surface, and a two-story Buddha surveying the scene below is an overwhelming room, contrasting sharply with the muted colors of the Khumbu. It is also freezing cold and by the time we emerged into a lightly falling snow we were chilled to the bone. We hurried back to our teahouse as the clouds again settled in around us, grabbing our coats, filling our cups with tea, and settling in around the stove when we arrived.
It has been a very relaxing day, offering us the chance for incredible views of the mountains around us, glimpses of the ongoing religious life here, and time for our bodies to continue to acclimatize and adapt to the new elevations before we move up the valley to over 14,000' tomorrow.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Go Bill and Sara, we’re with you!! Braves win the opener 2 - 0. Chipper doubles in his 1st AB and Hayward homers!
Posted by: Henry G on 3/31/2011 at 3:52 pm
A thick bank of clouds rolled into Namche last night as we left dinner, the fog giving the Himalayan village the look of a Maine fishing village. The cloud bank failed to lift overnight and by morning a light layer of snow lay across the stone streets and blue roofs of Namche with more snow lightly falling out of the mist. The usually vibrant town lay muted beneath the snow as we climbed out of the amphitheater and the world was quiet around us as we walked along the trail out of Namche. Snow continued to fall lightly during the hike and we hardly encountered others along the way, only a handful of porters and trekkers and a few dozen yaks.
For a couple of hours we made a long traverse along the valley's side, the valley floor slowly rising to meet us at the village of Phunki Thanga. There we crossed a brand new suspension bridge built only last year to replace the rickety wooden construction used previously, before beginning the long climb out of the valley floor to the ridge top monastery at Tengboche. Although the clouds never offered to lift, the snow let up for a bit midday before returning half way up the hill to Tengboche. By the time we reached the Monastery several inches of fresh snow covered the ground, capping the white chortens and gilded crests of the large building. We retreated to a nearby bakery where we brushed the snow off of our shoulders and sipped cups of hot tea, gradually rewarming ourselves.
Continuing on from Tengboche, we descended the other side of the ridge for a few minutes to reach our teahouse in Deboche, sitting among the rhododendron trees covered in Spanish moss and new snow. We spent the remainder of the afternoon watching the snow fall and the clouds play among the trees and nearby valley walls. Despite the snow it was a wonderful day on the trail as everything was eerily quiet and calm with few passerbys and the trail largely our own. The team is doing well and sends their best to everyone at home. We have enjoyed everyones comments and well wishes.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Thank you for the beautiful descriptions and for transporting us from our mid-winter storms to your snow covered valleys. We are savoring following your journey! MM
Posted by: Mirte Mallory on 3/30/2011 at 6:34 am
Hi Mark and Karen, H. and a friend and I are just back from a day in Yosemite—not quite Nepal, but quite snowy and sunny—beautiful.Love, MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 3/28/2011 at 7:34 pm
Leaving the teahouse and walking through Namche in the cool morning shadows, we climbed up the west side of Namche's amphitheater past the Monastery. Walking along it's walls, painted in a deep red and lined with rows of prayer wheels, we emerged into the morning sun that was slowly creeping down the hillside. Within no time we were pulling off hats and extra layers as the sun warmed us while we hiked. Following a series of switchbacks, we eventually gained the ridge above Namche and followed it to the north, climbing about 1200' until we crossed the short dirt Syangboche airstrip, now used only periodically to transport freight.
The hillside relaxes into a broad, rolling plateau beyond and Syangboche and we made our way through thickets of juniper trees and past grazing yaks to the eastern edge where the valley falls steeply away to the Dudh Kosi raging below. From there Everest, Lhotse, and Ama Dablam stand proudly at the head of the valley, already shrouded in morning clouds. Admiring the peaks far above us, we picked our way along the edge of the steep hillside, forcing ourselves to keep an eye on the trail as we stared up to the mountains, until we reached the Everest View Hotel, a large Japanese built hotel that even boasts pressurized rooms for guests arriving directly from Kathmandu by helicopter. Having reached it by our own two feet and feeling well acclimatized, we went straight to their patio out back and enjoyed a cup of tea with the impressive Everest panorama to stare out upon.
Further down the valley behind us the morning clouds were building and soon clouds swept over us, obscuring the views as we pulled out our jackets and quickly packing up. From the Everest View Hotel we walked through a forest of rhododendron and large moss covered boulders to the village of Khumjung - the largest in the area. Despite it's size Khumjung is the opposite of Namche, spread out across a shallow but broad valley with fields neatly tended to between the homes and a very calm and quiet. With spring arriving several Sherpa families were out sowing their fields with buckwheat, walking behind the plows pulled by yak and sowing the seeds by hand. Khumjung is also home to the Hillary School, founded in 1961 by Sir Edmund Hillary and responsible for bringing education to several generations of Sherpas. Morning classes were ending as we arrived and dozens of young Sherpa came running through the gates at full speed, almost knocking us over as we entered. After exploring the schools grounds for a bit we continued to the neighboring village of Khunde, an equally tranquil community where the Hillary Hospital sits. Seeing over 11,000 patients a year, it is the major medical facility for the area yet receives no support from the government in the process. The hospital was bustling when we arrived and we had the chance for a short tour of the small facility.
With the clouds still whipping over us, we walked back to Namche, crossing the plateau as we followed a narrow stone path that wound among the rhododendron, rocky outcroppings, and white washed chortens until we dropped into Namche on a steep trail winding straight down the hillside. We spent the afternoon sipping tea and relaxing in Namche before we depart for further up the valley tomorrow.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
China just debuted the highest hotel in the world… apparently they were measuring AGL not ASL lol, because it sounds like your hotel would win that competition! Keep having an amazing time on your super BAD &#$ TRIP!
Posted by: Nicole McLaughlin on 3/29/2011 at 3:12 pm
Tim, I love watching the progress of you and your team. You know how I have never asked you for anything. Would you please bring me back a snowball from Everest as a souvenir:) Be well. Namaste to you all. Bart
Posted by: Bart Miller on 3/28/2011 at 1:18 pm
The evenings clouds lifted over night and morning broke with clear skies above Namche. The Kongde massif, sitting directly across the valley shimmered with freshly fallen snow. As we emerged from our sleeping bags the sounds of the waking village seeped in through the thin teahouse walls. Chickens, dogs, and the bells of yaks and dzopkyos combined with the cries of children preparing for school and the faint tinking of stone masons beginning their day's work laboriously carving the stone into finely crafted blocks for the growing number of lodges being built in Namche.
Built in a horse shoe shaped bowl tucked into the hillside above the confluence of the Bhote Valley and the main Khumbu Valley, Namche is the largest village in the Khumbu and a cultural and trade center for the region. Vegetables and fresh goods are brought up from further down the valley while every summer Tibetan traders bring goods on yak over the passes further up to trade here. The town is built into a steep hillside and the tiny streets that criss-cross throughout are built of stone and plied by locals, trekkers, traders, yaks, and dogs alike. It is a bust, vibrant, and exciting place. This morning was Namche weekly market when locals from the nearby village come to purchase goods and after breakfast we wandered among the blankets of goods laid out on a series of terraces on the edges of town. Everything from fresh grapes and tangerines to chickens, peanuts, batteries, and cases of Red Bull were for sale there, offering a fascinating and often amusing scene.
After exploring the market we climbed to a shallow saddle to the east of Namche where the National Park headquarters, army post, and museum of the Park are located. From the knoll where they sit we caught our first view of the Everest panorama further up the valley. Already starting to hide among the clouds by midmorning, we caught occasional views of the recognizable summit pyramid, flying it's trademark plume of snow as the jet winds whipped across its summit. Lhotse, Nuptse, and Ama Dablam were also visible, standing tall above the valley floor further up.
Visiting a few more museums in the area, we passed the rest of the morning looking at collections of Sherpa mountaineering history, photographs, and visiting a traditional Sherpa home. The rest of the day was spent relaxing in Namche, exploring the towns narrow streets of hand laid stone, browsing the stalls of shops selling traditional jewelry and shawls along with knock off brand name down coats and climbing gear both new and old.
Tomorrow we will take a day hike above Namche to several villages nearby, stretching our legs and hopefully catching more views of the mountains up the valley.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
wow, i wish i was there with all of you…more pictures??? auntie car car
Posted by: carla henrie on 3/26/2011 at 4:32 pm
Yesterday's afternoon clouds cleared overnight and it was a warm, beautiful morning here in the Khumbu. Leaving our teahouse in Phakding we wound our way up the valley, traversing above the raging Dudh Kosi on steep hillsides that descend thousands of feet from the peaks above. Wherever the terrain offers a break small terraces have been carved into the hillsides and with spring arriving here in the lower Khumbu the fields of wheat and vegetables are starting to sprout while along the trail the cherry, magnolia, and rhododendron trees are in full bloom. We walked through the fields and villages, crossing back and forth from one side of the valley to the other on swaying suspension bridges that stretch above the milky blue water below, and soaking in the spring bloom along the way.
By midday we officially entered into Sagarmatha National Park, the park that bears Everest's Nepali name. Just past the Park entrance the trail emerges from the villages and green fields of the lower Khumbu and begins to climb to Namche Bazaar. A strong breeze was blowing up the valley when we crossed the suspension bridge at the base of the climb and the hundreds of prayer flags and white kata scarves stretched along it flapped in the wind, distracting us from the void in between the slats at our feet that stretched between us and the river hundreds of feet below.
The hill up to Namche is the first big climb of the trip, gaining over 2,000' from the valley floor to where Namche sits. In a series of switchbacks and long traverses we made our way upwards, staying well clear of the trains of dzopkyos - yak/cow hybrids favored at these lower elevations - that came barreling down the hill without much concern for those in their path. It was a healthy climb but felt good to put our heads down and climb for a bit.
Despite the spring temperatures lower in the valley a glance around the mountains above revealed fresh snow and as we arrived into Namche light flurries of snow blew in, at times blowing uphill as the flakes were buffeted by the swirling winds at the confluence of the two valleys. With tired legs we retreated to the teahouse, content to watch the low hanging clouds play amongst the peaks across the valley.
It has been a great day of walking and the team is settling into trail life well. We are spending the weekend in Namche, visiting the Saturday morning market tomorrow and exploring some of the surrounding villages as we acclimatize before going higher.
-RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Linden,
I am enjoying your posts. This sounds like a great adventure and I wish I was there. Say hello and give my best to Tim McLaughlin. Have a blast!
Rory
Posted by: Rory Robertson on 3/26/2011 at 6:55 pm
Linden,
enjoying following your progress on the blog…you write well…a nice tribute to Holderness (even if you never took English from me!!) Be safe and have fun…R
Posted by: Richard Parker on 3/26/2011 at 4:59 am
Hi Tim! I am missing you so much, but in a good way! LOVING the dispatches and pictures! I hope you are keeping a good journal so you can tell us EVERYTHING! I can’t wait! Everything is good at home. I have had the crud, but am feeling MUCH better today! Piss and vinegar coming back. HA! Bridger misses your warm lap at night, and so do I! Have done 2 commission checks and didn’t screw up! Yay me! I should be helping you pay company bills. Once in a while! :) I adore you and look forward to the 16th! But, I want this good experience to last for you. You are living your dreams! I couldn’t be more proud of you!
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/4/2011 at 12:14 pm
I am fine since tooth pulled—Dad left his message kinda hanging. Yesterday, Sat., 4/2/11 AM the sun was shining, bright blue skies so I jumped in my hot tub clothes, went outside and promptly turned around and headed back in the house!! It was extremely cold and windy—What a wimp! How did I ever birth a child who actually LIVES for cold and windy!!!! Ha—Cudos to you, Timmer. Stay safe all of you. I depend on them to take care of my son—Yeah, I know, nuff Mom talk. Love ya, Mom
Posted by: Mom Mac on 4/3/2011 at 12:22 pm
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