Entries from Everest BC Trek
We left the hotel well before sunrise this morning, driving through the nearly deserted streets of Kathmandu to the domestic airport. We hauled all of our gear through the narrow entryway and into the terminal, found our flight to Lukla, and as the sun rose just before 7am we were already taking our seats in the plane. Yesterday afternoon's clouds and light rain dissipated overnight and the morning sun shone through clear skies - perfect flying weather. We buckled our seat belts tight, took the cotton balls offered by the flight attendant and crammed them into our ears, and then took off from Kathmandu. True to their name, the STOL (Short Take Off Landing) airplanes we fly in get airborne in a matter of a few hundred meters and we were soon flying above the outskirts of Kathmandu and over the hills of the Terai - the middle section of Nepal and the foothills of the Himalaya. Flying east we had incredible views of the Himalayas out of the side of the plane and we spent the entire flight staring through the windows at the countryside below and the mountains hanging in the distance.
The flight was amazingly smooth, hardly a spot of turbulence - uncommon for flights around mountains of this size, and we soon banked a hard turn to the north and descended into the Khumbu Valley. The airport at Lukla is a short strip of tarmac noticeably slanted and the landings there are always...exciting. The approach takes the flight directly at the hillside until the entire mountain fills the view through the cockpit window and then in the span of several football fields the planes go from airborne to stopped. The pilots pulled off the smoothest landing I have ever had in Lukla and within minutes we were stepping off of the plane and onto the footpaths of Lukla.
Needing a little bit of time to get all of our gear from the flights we sat down in a tea-house near the airport and had breakfast, tea and coffee before hitting the trail.
Lukla sits several days walk from the nearest road head and only footpaths connect all of the villages up here - there isn't an automobile for dozens of miles in any direction. All transportation takes place on the stone lined trails, carried by animals or on your back. It is a far cry from the chaotic traffic jams of Kathmandu and a welcome relief to hear no horns or engines. Leaving Lukla, which sits about 1500' above the valley floor, we made a long, gradual traverse down to the Dudh Kosi river. The trail passes through fields of recently planted crops of cabbage, carrots, potatoes, wheat, and other vegetables and between the stone walls of small villages dotted along the way. Every so often the trail splits around giant boulders carved with Buddhist prayers or wraps around the stupas and prayer wheels.
For fear of falling into romanticism too easily, I'll simply say that it is a beautiful walk with sights and sounds to be seen in every direction. Hanging above it all are the giant snow covered peaks of the Himalaya. At 15,000 - 20,000' they are minor mountains compared to their neighbors to the north, but seen from the valley floor far below they are impressive. We walked for several hours through the fields and villages, crossing occasional suspension bridges across side rivers.
By mid-afternoon we reached the village of Phakding and settled into our tea-house. Sitting right along the edge of the Dudh Kosi River - which means Milk River due to its milky blue color from the glacial sediment it carries - our tea-house is tucked away in a quiet spot with views up and down the valley. We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in the sun in the grassy terraces in front of our rooms before the mountain's shadows brought the evening chill. We sat down in the dining room around the wood burning stove and had an excellent first meal in the Khumbu, enjoying some delicious momos - the local dumplings.
Tomorrow we head further up the valley to Namche Bazaar, the cultural and economic center of the region. The team is in great spirits.
Everyone is feeling healthy and well and we are all very excited to at last be on the trail.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
We had a busy day here in Kathmandu preparing for Everest Base Camp Trek and Island Peak adventures. We spent the better part of the morning discussing the plan, logistics, and gear needed for the trip, making the final preparations and sort of our gear before loading it all into our duffel bags in anticipation of tomorrow morning's departure. After weeks spent collecting all of the gear we need and thousands of miles of travel to get it here, it is exciting to have everything packed and ready to go.
After lunch we plunged into Kathmandu to visit several of the city's renowned UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Stopping first at the Pashputinath Temple, we walked between the small shrines and many temples dotting the banks of the Baghmati River observing the activities of Nepal's most holy Hindu cremation site. Deep in the heart of this city of 4 million, the temple grounds were bustling with families and ceremonies.
Moving across town a little ways, we then spent some time exploring the Boudhanath Stupa, the largest Buddhist Stupa (temple) in Nepal and the starting point for any pilgrimage the Nepalese Buddhist undertake.
Spanning an area the size of a football field, the sprawling stupa's white washed walls are constantly circled by streams of visitors and worshipers.
We then climbed the long set of stairways to Sawayambunath Stupa.
Nicknamed the Monkey Temple by Kathmandu's hippie visitors in the '60s, the temple grounds sit atop a hill overlooking the city and true to its name, is home to a large number of monkeys that swing from the strings of prayer flags and scramble across the golden roofs of the shrines, all the while waiting patiently for the misattention of a visitor to grab their snacks or drinks.
After the tour we headed into Thamel, the throbbing center of Kathmandu to get dinner. Navigating the narrow streets packed full of shops selling knock-off outdoor gear, taxis, visitors, and street vendors hawking local jewelry, we ate at one of my favorite restaurants in Kathmandu before turning in for the evening. We have an early ride to the airport tomorrow morning for our flight into the mountains to the village of Lukla.
We will check in tomorrow from the Khumbu!
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
The team convened in Kathmandu today to kick off our Everest Base Camp Trek and climb of Island Peak. A heavy rain blew through Kathmandu last night, clearing the skies this morning for gorgeous views of the surrounding hills and the peaks of the Himalaya looming in the distance. Everyone arrived as scheduled today, easily retrieving bags and passing through customs. We loaded all of the gear into the back of the van and plunged into the busy streets of Kathmandu, navigating between the taxis, buses, rickshaws, street vendors, and pedestrians on our way to the hotel. Life in Kathmandu happens on the streets, from buying daily groceries to sipping tea and we slowly made our way through it all, taking in everything as we navigated the streets.
We will do the final round of packing our gear for the mountains tomorrow before heading out to visit the streets and landmarks of Kathmandu. After months of preparation and days of travel we are excited to be here with the trip finally underway.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
We all slept hard last night, enjoying the thick air of Namche after many nights up high and appreciating the comforts of our teahouse after the long day yesterday. The morning broke as another clear day and we left Namche enjoying the the warm morning sun on the trail. The first few hours brought us back down the Namche Hill, far easier and quicker on the descent than at the beginning of the trip. The trail, calm at first, gradually filled with porters, yaks, donkeys, and groups of trekkers and we were all amazed at the activity on the trail - a far cry from the more remote stretches of the upper Khumbu.
Spring continued to bloom lower in the valley, the red and pink rhododendron dotting the hillsides and flowering cherry trees shading the trail throughout the valley floor. It was a beautiful walk back to Lukla and we all remarked how familiar our surroundings have become after close to three weeks on the trail. We arrived in Lukla in the late afternoon and sat on the stoop of our teahouse watching the hills around us and reflecting on the trip. It has been a great adventure and we all are both sad to see it end but excited to return home and share our stories. Tomorrow the group takes a flight from Lukla to Kathmandu and I head back to Namche on the way back to Everest BC to rejoin the Everest Expedition. The weather forecast is looking good for flights and the team should be back in the hustle and bustle of Kathmandu by late morning. Thanks to everyone for your support and comments throughout the trip.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Looking forward to hearing from you both and the trip of a life time. Take care Call when you can Love Mom
Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/13/2011 at 7:20 am
What a wonderful trip! We have enjoyed reading the reports of your climb/trek/hike—thank you so much for the reports. Anxious to hear first-hand about it all! MA
Posted by: Mary Ann & Howard Latimer on 4/12/2011 at 11:19 am
After several nights in tents high in the mountains here sleeping in the teahouse in Chukung last night was warm and comfortable. The morning broke mostly clear, although a large cloud cap hung over Lhotse and Island Peak. Packing up from Chukung, we headed back down the valley, retracing our steps through Dingboche, Shomare, Pangboche, Deboche, Tengboche, etc. Leaving the high mountains of the Himalaya is like watching the world being reborn around you: yesterday we were on the summit of Island Peak in a world of ice, rock, and snow; we returned to Chukung where small shrubs and grasses survive and a few hardy crows venture; today as we walked small bushes sprang up, then a few sparse trees, and then forests, then flowering rhododendron. The smell of the air changes too, the dirt, trees, and yaks all adding to the aromas of the lower elevations. As we descended the valley today it was as if life sprang up around us with every step and the little things that went on unnoticed suddenly attracted attention: the bark of a dog, a warm breeze, flower petals.
Despite all being immersed in the scenes around us, it was still a long day on the trail, taking the better part of the day for us to return to Namche. We arrived tired from the trail, but marvelling at the arrival of spring in the days since we've been gone. It feels like ages ago since we first arrived here, with snow blanketing the village and the thin air burning our lungs. Now the fields surrounding town are turning green and the stairways feel far less daunting. It is great to be back in Namche after so much time up high and we all enjoyed the hot showers and great food.
Tomorrow we return to Lukla, descending further down the valley. We are looking forward to the final leg of the trek and will check in tomorrow evening from Lukla.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
I am glad you are heading down safe and sound. A shower never felt so good, huh? When you get to Lukla, I will start praying for a safe and uneventful flight to Timbucktu, I mean Katmandu! I’m so funny! Looking so forward to the circle of your loving arms! I love you!
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/10/2011 at 3:19 pm
The trip down must have been long but look what you saw when you got down with the plants ets. Good going but am sure you were tired. Much love Mom
Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/10/2011 at 11:46 am
Hey RMI, this is Linden Mallory calling with the Island Peak team after a successful summit of Island Peak this morning. We reached the summit about 9:30 Nepali time this morning, and just had perfect weather. Today, April 9th, was chosen as an auspicious day for our Everest expedition. As today was the Puja Ceremony, sort of the opening blessing ceremony of the expedition and sure enough it worked pretty well for us as well. We had probably the best weather we’ve seen in the past week up here in the Khumbu for our summit day. Woke up this morning about 2 a.m. and it was actually snowing. We had a couple inches of snow on the tents, but the stars were out and it was clear with some clouds blowing up from below from the lower valley so we set out on our climb and broke free of the clouds within about 30 or 40 minutes. It was chilly but pretty consistent throughout the trip but just beautiful skies. By the time morning broke, not a cloud in the sky and thankfully no winds so we powered to the top, getting on to the summit of Island Peak again about 9:30 and it’s about the size of a pool table so it’s a pretty small, little summit. We stood up there and snapped some photos and descended back down, packed up high camp and just arrived into basecamp, which is our final trip into the valley. So we’re all pretty excited to be dropping the packs and turning into bed. It’s been a healthy day. Everybody is doing well and put in a good effort today. We’ll check in tomorrow, headed back to Namche is the plan. We’ll try to get some photos off to everybody as well. That’s it. Hope everyone is well and we’ll talk to you guys soon. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
Linden Mallory checking in after summit day
On The Map
Congratulations to Tim and all! What a finish to an incredible adventure - a blue sky climb in the middle of the Himalaya! Safe travels on the trek out. Looking forward to pics and stories….
Posted by: Tom Gausman on 4/10/2011 at 8:33 am
Thanks all for your comments!!! We rolled back into Namche after about 15 miles, a 10 hr day & a hot shower! Dan, remember the hike off of Mt Adams that one year? Multiply that by 3 or 4 & you’e got it! Deb—CAN’T WAIT to see you too. BTW, I won our NCAA B-Ball pool—aced out Linden & crew to take the pot of $70 Nepali Rupee ($US 1.07)—first pool I’ve one in awhile & I get a buck—must be karma.
RMI has put together an epic program here. If any of you have the itch, I highly recommend them.
Take care all & we’ll soon see you stateside!
Posted by: Tim McLaughlin on 4/10/2011 at 8:09 am
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling from Island Peak. We are up here at High Camp, it’s another fairly nice evening out, certainly on the chilly side but we didn’t get any of that afternoon precip that we’ve seen the past couple of days. This has definitely been some of the better weather we have seen in the past few days. It’s cold. Cold, cold temps right now about to jump in the tent and get warm.
We spent the morning wrapping up our training down at Base Camp and then moved up here to High Camp got in about mid day. We spent the afternoon sorting our gear and preparing.
I ran up to check out the route and get things started with Kulan Tusing, one of our Sherpa, so everything is looking good up there.
We just wrapped up an excellent dinner and off to bed. We are looking at an early morning start somewhere around 2 to 3 o’clock in the morning. With these cold temperatures we might delay our start a little bit but definitely get an alpine start. A couple hours through the rocks up onto the glacier and then move our way up the snow and ice to hopefully get to the summit of Island Peak. We will check in tomorrow and let you know how things go.
The team is doing well we are definitely excited to have the climb here and everybody is in good spirits and we send our best to everyone back home.
We’ll check in tomorrow. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from High Camp on Island Peak
On The Map
Saw the picture and description of Island Peak. What a climb and scene you must have. Keep up the good work and we are all anxious to hear and see more. Love Mom
Posted by: Cornelia Miller on 4/8/2011 at 3:07 pm
Wow! Gorgeous views! A tad warmer here, but the views are magnificent! Apple trees getting ready to pop their blossoms out, green hills and white Cascade Mountain range. The grass is starting to look a bit shaggy and ready for a haircut! Dreamt about you last night, Tim. I woke myself up reaching for you from my dreamy state and you wearn’t there. So glad for these blogs from Linden. Keeps us going down here at home. Can’t wait until Saturday. Starting to let myself think about you too much. Gotta stay busy. I love you, and I am so proud of you living out the dreams and letting them come true. You’re my hero! Deb <3
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/8/2011 at 11:45 am
This is Linden checking in from the Basecamp of Island Peak. We are camped out at the base and had a nice walk in this morning with clear skies. Rolled into Basecamp about mid-afternoon and got settled right in as the weather blew in. Huffed and puffed for a couple of hours and now it’s clearing up. We actually have some clouds lower down in the valley that are snowing and the wind is bringing the snow up. It’s snowing right now but there are stars above us. Optimistic that it will clear out by morning. The team is doing well, definitely excited to be transitioning into the climb portion of the trek. Tomorrow we move to high camp and keeping our fingers crossed that the weather is going to hold so we can make a push for the summit the following day. We will check in tomorrow and let you know how everything goes. Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
On The Map
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory calling with the Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak crew.
I am calling from Chukung which is the last little town at the head of the Imja Khola Valley. The last village before we get to Island Peak. We left Pheriche this morning, again just another gorgeous day here. We are definitely in a pretty consistent weather pattern of clear skies in the morning. We walked up the valley, the team is well acclimatized so we made great time up here and got into Chukung about mid day. We spent the afternoon re-sorting our gear and basically transitioning from trekking to climbing. We’ve got all our duffle bags packed and looking forward to heading to Base Camp tomorrow.
Again this afternoon the clouds rolled in and the same story right now, it’s snowing lightly here in Chukung. Thankfully, not a whole lot of new snow these last few days so we’re all quite pleased about that. The plan tomorrow is for the Island Peak team to head into Base Camp and start getting ready for the climb. Our Base Camp Trekkers are going to head back to Namche and enjoy some nice hot showers and thicker air and warm temperatures of the lower elevations. We all just had a great final dinner together. Everybody again is just thrilled to be here and we’re having a great time and looking forward to the next climbing adventure. We’ll check in tomorrow from Island Peak.
Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory checks in from Chukung
On The Map
Hey RMI this is Linden Mallory checking in with the Everest Base Camp Trek & Island Peak crew.
The low pressure system that moved in yesterday and brought all that wind and snow to Everest Base Camp blew out last night and we woke up to crystal clear skies this morning at Everest Base Camp.
And it was cold, cold and definitely made packing up quite a chore but we got out of there and said good bye to the Everest Base Camp Staff. We headed back down the mountain. We stopped in Lobuche for lunch and caught up with RMI’s Everest Team. We had a good time catching up with Dave, Bill and Sara, letting them know that Base Camp is looking good.
The last part of the day brought us back down the valley to Pheriche where we were a couple of days ago and as we were walking the clouds moved in again bringing some rain, snow and a little bit of hail. The weather has definitely been pretty cold and unstable so we are keeping our fingers crossed that a high pressure system is going to move in as we gear up for Island Peak which we are headed to next.
So the plan is to spend the night here in Pheriche and then we’ll head up a little side valley called the Imja Khola Valley to a little town called Chukung where we’ll gear up for Island Peak tomorrow. So we’ll give you a shout tomorrow and let you know how it goes.
Everybody is doing well. It definitely feels good to get back down to 14,000’ after so many nights above 16,000’.
We hope you are doing well and we wish everyone the best.
Take care.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory on the team departure from Everest Base Camp.
I miss you so much! These pictures are beautiful! I wish iwere there with you. I couldn’t do the climb right now, but you could rent me a helicopter driver! I am going over to Seattle on Friday the 15, and will be at the airport Saturday morning to greet you! ONE MORE WEEK!!!!!!!!! I love you! Sweet man
Posted by: Deb McLaughlin on 4/7/2011 at 11:17 pm
Tim,
Lay off those cigars so you can make it to the top!
Wish I was there!
Rick
Posted by: Rick on 4/5/2011 at 6:40 pm
Hey Jane—love the top by the way!! I bet this is alot more fun than Avon!!??
Posted by: Bonnie Pringle on 3/18/2012 at 1:40 pm
Way to go Bowman!!!! I am so proud of you—still cannot believe you are doing this!!!!!
Posted by: Bonnie Pringle on 3/18/2012 at 1:33 pm
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