Entries from Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
High winds blew cold snow in our faces the entire three-hour trek to Gorak Shep today. Buffs up, gortex layers on, and hands balled up in our gloves gave us some protection but it still leads to chapped cheeks and tired climbers. We met up with the other RMI team, led by the famous
Casey Grom, for some tea and jokes along the trail. They are heading down to the land of hot showers and warm evenings as we head up to
Everest Base Camp tomorrow. Some of our team took the afternoon to rest and relax while others braved the winds and hiked up Kala Patar (18,500 feet). We had beautiful views of Nuptse and the Khumbu Glacier but Everest didn't want to show its true height to us today. Hopefully this wind slows and we have an easier trek into basecamp tomorrow.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We woke up to a light blanket of white covering the yaks, high peaks, and trail.
Walking to Lobuche was peaceful and quiet with no wind and soft steps in snow. It is nice to trek with one layer on and light gloves. Chilly when we stop but perfect hiking temperatures.
We passed over Thok La today where there are carins, rock piles, of memorials for climbers who have passed away in the Himalayas. It is a peaceful spot with colorful prayer flags blowing in the wind. Some of the climbers have plaques with poems or quotes reflecting their love for these mountains. Now we are at Lobuche resting at 16,000 feet and visiting the world's highest bakery.
The team is finding their stride well. Packing our duffel bags in the morning for the porters to take then helping themselves to our ample supply of French press Starbucks coffee (thanks RMI). Breakfast typically consists of eggs and toast or porridge. Then we hit the trail and walk with water, layer, and photo breaks mixed in. Lunch is at a tea house where we order soups, pizzas, or rice dishes. Then a few more hours to our village for the evening. It's nice when the rhythms of the days start becoming easy to people and we fall into a relaxed mode of exploring these valleys.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We spent the day hiking up to 16,500 feet
above Pheriche to the summit of Nagarjun. For some of the team it was a personal record every step! At the summit we had amazing views up valley to Lhotse, Makalu,and Peak 38. We could also see Imja Lake which is a large body of water held back by an ice dam. The fear is that one day the ice dam will melt or burst and a wall of water will flood all the downstream villages. An excavator has been flown in to dig a spillway for the lake so it won't release all at once. Unfortunately, the small excavator doesn't seem to match the size of the huge ice wall holding the water back. We hiked up in sunshine and light winds but on our descent clouds blew in and we made it back for hot soup as the snow started.
I had to use my forceful voice to keep this team going slowly as we climbed so no one would overextend themselves during our first visit to high altitude. What was fun, was watching our strong team cruise downhill with confidence. Now, with tired legs, we sip tea and prepare for a restful afternoon of naps and books. What a life!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We are finally using some of our warmer layers as we pull in to
14,000' here in Pheriche. The day went super smoothly with the team feeling strong, eating well, and chatting along the trail. We made a morning tea stop in Pangboche to visit the oldest Monastery in the valley and see the yeti skull and hand. We can't wait to have a live yeti spotting hopefully high on the glaciers of Lobuche Peak.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
"This coffee makes me so happy!" Said our favorite Canadian climber as she sipped a freshly brewed cappuccino under the shadow of Ama Dablam. Our team is getting giddy with the views of Everest, Lotse, Kantega, and many more 8000 meter peaks all day. As we trek along the trail one step closer to these monsters mountains we can't help but smile.
Now we are up at
12,200 feet in Deboche and everyone is still feeling strong. I've been so impressed with our team and how well everyone takes care of themselves by eating well, drinking water, and pressure breathing. We even laugh a lot!
Tomorrow another big step up to Pheriche.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
A unique walk took us off the beaten path to
Thamo Monastery where we listened to the nuns chant, ring bells, and blow long horns. They brought us a taste of their traditional Tibetan tea which is super salty and hard to drink more than a sip of, but we were honored guests.
Our group is so strong and doing great with the altitude and hiking. Everyone is full of energy and incredibly positive about the journeys ahead. Our local team of Sherpa are so kind and great culture and climbing guides. They have all climbed Everest, and two of them 7 times each. They love trekking as well as climbing and sharing their home valley with us. We feel lucky to get to know them and learn about their lives here the in the Khumbu. Thank you Nima, Lakpa, Lakpa, and Kami!
Tomorrow will bring a long day on the trail up to another Monastery and higher elevation. The team is doing so well that we know it will go smoothly.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
We are currently sitting in
Namche Bazaar high in the Khumbu sipping on milk tea at the Nirvana Home Lodge. Happy to be here after a good day of crossing high bouncing suspension bridges and climbing up the Namche hill to arrive here at 11,200 feet. Everyone in the team is doing so well and climbing strong. Halfway up our hill climb for the day, the clouds parted and we got a view of Everest way up valley. Namche was the primary trading village for hundreds of years between the salt traders of Tibet and the spice traders from India. Now Namche is still a major hub for goods and people coming and going.
Tomorrow well take a rest day with a nice morning hike to stretch the legs and the afternoon to appreciate this town. Our lodge sits high on the edge of town with the best view of all the goings on. When the clouds clear the giant peak, Thamserku, towers above everything just out our windows.
Now off to eat some momos!
RMI Guide Christina Dale
The morning started with a 4:30 am departure to a chaotic airport where the security guards found a pocket knife in a pocket and just shrugged. When we got on the plattus porter plane the pilot used his sleeve to wipe the condensation from the windshield so he could see right before takeoff. We also learned halfway through the flight that there was one seat belt not connected to anything. But despite our laughter around the security, pilot, and plane, we had the smoothest flight and landing ever.
The team cannot stop smiling as we walk through gardens of bok choy, carrots,and onions. We pass large carve rocks called mani walls that read "o mani padme om" meaning the jewel in the lotus flower. We make way for donkeys and zopkeos (a yak and cow breed). We cross the Dhud Kosi river meaning "milk river" because it flows from the glaciers on Everest making it white. The sunshine and a glimpse of high snow capped peaks around us, kind of the perfect day on the trail.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Well, 80% of the team and 70% of the bags made it to
Kathmandu, but never fear, it looks like we'll be together tomorrow. The airlines and connections just weren't cooperating but every trip has some tough spots and we just wanted to get ours out of the way early on.
The rest of us spent the day walking, sightseeing, eating baked goods, and resting. We did go for a great dinner of chicken tikka masala and naan in Thamel this evening where we got to know each other and start wrapping our heads around the adventures ahead and around us.
Tomorrow we'll do some sightseeing in Kathmandu, last minute errands, and a good gear check. Everyone is full of good positive energy and looking forward to spending the next two weeks together in the Khumbu.
RMI Guide Christina Dale
Previous Page
Way to go Sherry and Ed! Love following you all on your adventure. Absolutely amazing! Love you both!! xo Colleen & Will
Posted by: Colleen on 3/27/2019 at 9:15 pm
What an amazing adventure for you all. Let my sweetheart Robert know I’m following everything you post and I get all his pictures. Can’t wait to hear about absolutely everything. Be safe and enjoy every moment .
I miss you .
Love, Kelly
Posted by: Kelly Donovan on 3/26/2019 at 10:48 pm
View All Comments