Entries from Torres del Paine

The team enjoyed an evening kayak near the large icebergs on Lago Grey yesterday. Today we had a windy but scenic 6.5 miles through the 2013 wildfire scar. The terrain is a series of rocky bluffs and valleys covered in burned and sun bleached trees. While holding onto thier hats, some were able to get pictures of Glacier Grey. Some, decided to forge ahead and get out of the wind. This Refugio is located on Lago Pehoe pay way) which has a brilliant turquoise color. We got our first views of the Cuernos (horns) of the Paine Massif. A short stay here tonight and we’ll head up the French Valley tomorrow morning on our way to Francis Domes. 

RMI Guide Mike King

Saturday, Februdary 12, 2022 2:38 AM PT

We had a windy but dry night at Perros camp. After a quick breakfast we headed up towards John Gardner Pass at 4000’. While it’s not high in elevation the proximity to glaciers and large alpine peaks makes you feel much higher.

The trail winds up through the forest for a bit then begins the ascent over rocky ground. The wind was howling across the Grey glacier as we dropped down the other side of the pass. From one side you see a lush, forested valley and the other is made up of the glaciers that comprise the terminus of the Southern ice fields. This is when the difficulty sets in. The descent from the pass is harmless but once inside the trees the trail is a mess of poorly maintained and eroded steps, toe jamming declines and lots of roots and other obstacles that keep you focused only a few feet in front of you. Your reward for several hours of frustration is spectacular views of the glaciated valley and 3 suspension bridges that will bring out the inner Indiana Jones in anyone.

We got to Refugio Grey in good style but with sore feet and an insatiable thirst. After showers, many tubes of Chilean Pringles like chips, a loaf of bread we had dinner and continued the festivities.

Today we’ll take a day off from walking and enjoy an evening kayak tour on Lago Grey. There’s a lot of calved glacial ice damned near the Refugio which be great to see from water level.

Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King & Team

The Team was thankful to be in the Refugio last night as the wind & rain approached “white squall” intensity. Ships would have been listing in Lago Dickson. The building shook and poorly trimmed windows whistled. We enjoyed a dry but chilly morning hiking up hill to enter the Perros river valley. Most of the day was spent in the heavily canopied forest with occasional views of the surrounding alpine peaks and glaciers. We crisscrossed beautiful streams as we wound up valley to the terminal moraine of the Perros glacier. The wind had only gotten worse so we snapped some photos and headed into camp. Our camp lies in a forest that breaks most of the wind, allows a little sunlight through and sets us up to start tomorrow early for our hike through John Gardner pass. The feet are a little less sore and pack adjustments have been successful.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King

Today we got started around 8:30 after a light breakfast. We had a windy and rainy night but woke to some sunshine and a light breeze in camp. Our walk took us through rolling fields interrupted by dense thickets of brush and small stunted and twisted birch like trees. We followed the Paine River and eventually towards its headwaters at Lago Dickson which is created by the Dickson glacier.

We had clouds, wind, rain & sun, or some mix of the three for 12 miles. As we approached Lago Dickson, we got views of the glaciated peaks and valley glaciers that carved and continue to dominate this landscape.

The camp lies on a peninsula filled with dense trees and a large field. We ducked into the Refugio as the rain intensified. The group is having a fun time, lots of laughing and a few sore feet.

Tomorrow we head for Los Perros camp. Getting a message out from Perros can be difficult as we are in a tight valley with large alpine peaks on each side. If you don’t hear from us, we’ll check in Friday once we reach Refugio Grey.

Thanks for following along,

RMI Guide Mike King and Team

We left Puerto Natales this morning and enjoyed a scenic drive into Torres del Paine National Park. Along the way we saw some guanacos, a wild cousin of the llama & alpaca. Some condors, rhea(emu/ostrich like) and flamingos. The Paine Massif was clouded over but lots of new snow blanketed the lower slopes. Our hike was approximately nine miles through rolling hills and fields. This part of the park is still on private property and is a decommissioned cattle & sheep ranch. There was some nice creek crossings and the views of the Paine river, emerald green from the glacial till meandered in and out. Camp is an old ranch house that now has a kitchen and dining room. The Team did well and enjoyed the sunny and at times windy afternoon to enjoy being out of the boots and telling stories, reading and a few naps. The salmon and rice accompanied by some Chilean wine made for a nice end to the first day of our trek. Tomorrow we’ll head to Lago Dickson.

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

Quick check in for the Torres del Paine trek group. We are all in Punta Arenas with our luggage. The amount of paperwork and long lines to enter Chile was the first major obstacle. With late arrivals we didn’t get much sightseeing around Punta Arenas with the exception of a few walks along the water front to see the sculptures and lots of cormorants.  Today we will head to Puerto Natales to sort our gear and enjoy some of the Southern “fjord” landscape that make up this area. I will be sending daily updates of our trip once we enter Torres del Paine National Park on Tuesday. 

Thanks,

RMI Guide Mike King

We concluded our nine day trek through Torres del Paine National Park with an 6 am start to get up to the Towers of Paine before the crowds arrived. The hike was 12 miles round trip with 3,900’ of elevation gain. Once at the towers we had cold wind, mostly clear skies for some good pictures. We saw a condor soaring around the cirque, we saw social media influencers doing acrobatic yoga, we saw someone fall into the glacial lake from trying to pose like an influencer and most of all we capped off a great trip with a nice brisk hike. The trio self named the “base layer boys” lead the charge up with our Chilean guide Fernando and once back at the hostel we packed up and are now back in Puerto Natales for the night. A few hour drive to Punta Arenas tomorrow morning and this fun trip will be done. We laughed a lot, ate great food, took lots of pictures and have some sore legs and feet. Guess that’s the price you pay to be in such an amazing location. We are going to celebrate with one last pizza dinner before the group disperses tomorrow.  Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Mike King

We finished our last day of hiking with the big packs. Last night was a windy and wet night down near Lago Nordenskjold. The Dones flexed, the tents shook and the trees thrashed about. For an area so infamous for stormy weather our team has lucked out. We hung out at the Refugio until the rain stopped and sunshine appeared. The winds would stay with us all day as we walked 14 km to Refugio Torre Central. The trail was a running creek at times and aside from some rocky bluffs to walk up and descend we cruised in just as the rain started back again. There is a lot of new snow up high and aside from watching some harriers play in the gusting wind the coolest views were the white caps and walls of wind blown spray moving like clouds across the lakes. Tomorrow concludes our 9 day trek of the “O” and “W” circuits. We’ll head out early to see the actual towers that gives this park it’s name and then head for Puerto Natales. 

RMI Guide Mike King

The Team got started from Refugio Paine Grande at 9:30. The weather was cool and windy for the first two hours as we hiked to Campamento Italiano at the base of the French Valley. We ditched packs and grabbed a light lunch and water, then headed up to the British viewpoint. The views of the Horns, Sharks Fin, and surrounding peaks were worth the side hike. A quick descent down to grab packs and a 30-minute walk to the French Domes wrapped up the day. The skies have been grey and the rain has held off until after getting to camp each day so fingers crossed for two more days of hiking. 

RMI Guide Mike King

We enjoyed a rainy rest day at Refugio Grey. The wind and water on Lago Grey didn’t cooperate for a kayak tour but the time off our feet was appreciated. With only 7 km to Paine Grande we got a later start and walked through the 2011 forest fire scar that provided great views due to reduced vegetation.  The trail took us up and down a section of rocky bluffs filled with foxglove and tall grass over 4.5 hours. The winds are usually strong in this section and today was no different. Arriving at Refugio Paine Grande we got glimpses of the main rock formations this area is famous for. High winds, snow and grey skies up high made from some good spectating from within the beautiful and modern hut. Three days remain and we still have a lot of trail to cover and mountains to see. Thanks for following along. 

RMI Guide Mike King