Entries from Aconcagua
January 28, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,000'
We woke today and said goodbye to the other RMI team as they headed down valley to go enjoy a delicious carne asado dinner. A carne asado dinner and a bed sound nice, but we have a lot of mountain ahead of us, so those are going to have to wait. The team made it further up the mountain today as we established our new home at
Camp 1. It was a warm day today which made for great lounging in the sun as we kicked back and relaxed from a job well done. As dinner finished and hot drinks were sipped the sun slipped behind the ridge and a chill filled the air. Everyone casually disappeared into their sleeping bags for warmth...and so begins spending 12 hours in our tents.
Have a great day,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
On The Map
January 27, 2019
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
It’s strange how things turn out in retrospect. What was supposed to be a nicer day on the summit turned into an extremely difficult one. We listened to the teams rig up for their summit attempt this morning. The tents hardly rippled and the skies were clear, that is until they weren’t. By the time we started packing up camp, a lenticular cloud had formed over the the upper mountain. This cloud formation is accompanied by winds and cold temperatures. While we had some cold and consistent wind the day before, we had sunlight and a clear day. As we descended to
Camp 2 we were not envious of the teams struggling across the grand traverse. We collected our caches at the camps and made our way into a warm and inviting base camp for some well deserved sandwiches and beverages. Tomorrow we head for Las Lenas and then Mendoza on the 29th. The Team is in high spirits and eager to get cleaned up and headed for home. This has been a great expedition and everyone has learned a lot about being in the high mountains during the last 2 1/2 weeks. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
January 27, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
With no agenda today but resting, we had a casual breakfast and a lazy morning. Many cups of coffee were enjoyed as we all sat around the table chit-chatting. As the afternoon rolled up
Mike King and team strolled into camp. They had a successful summit yesterday and looked eager to get out of their boots. It was great catching up with them and hearing about their climb. It just adds more excitement for the team to hear what is coming next from those who were just there. Our day is coming soon but first we have to move to
Camp 1. Tomorrow we will pack up our things and leave the joys of basecamp. Tomorrow we will be one step closer.
All the best,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
January 26, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
The team showed up to play and brought their A game today. Today we made our way further up the mountain carrying a load up to
Camp 1. We piled our gear under a rock, breathed in the thinning air at 16,200' and then strolled on back down to the comforts of basecamp where juice and snacks awaited. Everyone did a fantastic job. Our team looked strong and motivated. This is going to be a good climb. After a hard day's work, we are looking forward to our rest tomorrow which is also our last day at basecamp.
Goodnight all,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
On The Map
January 26, 2019
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 22,841'
January 26, 2019 - 11:09 am PT
Polar opposite weather for the summit team’s return to Colera. At this point yesterday we were in a ground blizzard and wondering if we’d get an opportunity to climb. The guides got up at 1:00 am to see clear skies but strong wind. We wouldn’t start then anyway, too cold. At 3:00 the skies were still clear and the winds had calmed. We set off from Camp with a mix of snow and scree. The forecasted 30 mph winds out of the west were present and account for the entire climb.
The route switchbacks for a while and then you arrive at the defunct storm shelter, Independencia Hut at 21,000’. From the hut, the climb ascends a moderate snow slope and then transitions into a long ascending traverse. We had about 60% frozen scree and 40% snow. After feeling like you’ve walked forever without gaining much ground the climbers arrive at “the cave”, it’s not a cave. From the cave the climb is a steep ribbon of winter snow in a feature called the Candeleta. After crossover stepping for what seems like enough time for someone to recite an epic poem you hit the Guanacos Ridge. This ridge goes up, down and never flat; however, towards the end you get a spectacular view of the South face of
Aconcagua. Just 10-15 minutes more and your standing on top of the highest mountain outside of the Himalayas.
We are back in camp and will begin the process of heading to Mendoza tomorrow morning. Starting with a down carry of our gear and remaining food to Plaza Argentina. From base camp, mules take our equipment to Penitentes while we stop for one last Argentine asado (Cookout) at Pampa Las Lenas. The following morning after a night of meatmares and red wine to celebrate, we will return to Mendoza for a wine tour or some much needed pool time. Thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Mike King
January 26, 2019 - 7:25 am PT
This is Mike, we reached the summit of
Aconcagua just a few minutes ago. The storm blew out around midnight and we hit the trail at 3:45am. I’ll write more once we are back in camp safely, we have a long descent ahead of us.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
January 25, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Rest days are the best days. Days for reading, napping, sport eating and shooting the breeze. We all did plenty of that plus a few chores. Everyone had to visit the
base-camp doctor, to which everyone received a green-light to go up the mountain. More shuffling of gear was done to get ready for our carry tomorrow. Tomorrow we will head up to Camp 1 to cache some of our gear. With nice weather in the forecast, it's going to be good day.
After while crocodile,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and Team
January 25, 2019
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 19,600'
We had cold temperatures and moderate winds this morning when we woke up. The upper mountain was engulfed in a dark grey cloud with snow eventually spinning lightly through the air. Our
high camp at 19,600’ was visible so we drug our feet getting camp broke down. The weather didn’t seem to be getting better or worse, so we headed up. Cold gust of wind and overcast skies followed us up. We are at camp, hunkered down in our tents. The process of making water keeps the guides busy for the remainder of the day and well into the night. Our fingers are crossed that since the precipitation arrived earlier then expected, it will blow out overnight. If that doesn't happen, we’ll likely have a weather day here at Colera and attempt on the 27th. You all will know more, when I know more. Good night from 19,600’.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
January 24, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
We continued feeling like a cowboy by riding a mule across the river this morning. The river is painfully cold, so it was nice to avoid walking across. After a short ride we were back to traveling by foot. We exited the Vacas Valley and entered the Relinchos Valley. The views are gorgeous with steep rock on one side and rolling hills on the other. By the end of our walk we reach
Aconcagua Basecamp just under 14,000'. Its a welcoming sight. We are greeted with juice and pizza. You feel rather civilized up here. Comfort food of shepard's pie and a welcome cake were enjoyed by all for dinner. The team is psyched and doing well.
Later alligator,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
On The Map
January 24, 2019
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
This camp has an amazing view, especially when we have so much moonlight with a near full moon. If you can get yourself out of the tent during the night, the light illuminates the Polish Glacier and all the surrounding peaks. This Team has enjoyed the plentiful stars and seemingly 3D Milky Way during the first part of the trip and now the moon light will brighten the path early on our summit day.
The rest day has been fairly standard, big breakfast and lots of reading and hanging out in the tents. There have been some high clouds that have made the day cooler than previous and we have been fortunate with such favorable weather. Tomorrow we will pack up camp and move up to
19,600’. The day will go by fast as we get tents set up, make lots of water and prepare for a summit attempt on Saturday morning. The next five days include a lot of effort and ground to cover, fingers crossed the winds are light and the sun burns bright.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
January 23, 2019
Posted by: Hannah Smith, Avery Parrinello
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 10,550'
We all slept under the stars last night. No tent, just a sleeping pad and sleeping bag. You feel like a cowboy. The moon shone so bright you didn't need a headlamp to see anything. The morning came, we packed up, and continued our walk down the Vacas Valley. An hour into our walk we saw our first guanaco, the Llama of Argentina. After walking for a handful of hours we arrived at
Casa de Piedra. We set up our tents and relaxed in the sunshine or down by the river until dinner. With the sun down and well fed we are all turning in. Tomorrow is big, we finally arrive to basecamp where we get to settle in for a few days.
Hasta luego,
RMI Guide Hannah Smith and team
Climb High and Climb Strong Hannah and Team!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 1/29/2019 at 3:39 am
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