Entries from Expedition Dispatches
Yesterday morning at Chilcabamba we awoke to beautiful weather: clear skies, no wind, and excellent views of Cotopaxi. After driving into Cotopaxi National Park, we hiked up to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi at nearly 16,000'. Today there are some scattered snow showers and inntermitent clouds, but nothing too serious. We enjoyed a short hike to the glacier, and a review of ice axe and cramponing skills. This afternoon we're lounging around the hut. We'll hit the sack early tonight, in order to rest enough before our alpine start--we'll most likely leave for the summit in the middle of the night.
I'll be in touch tomorrow. Hopefully the weather treats us well.
Buenos dias. Yesterday our team traveled to the Pasachoa protected forest for an acclimatization hike. Despite rain and a muddy trail, we enjoyed our hike through the cloud forest, reaching over 12,500' of altitude before heading back to Quito. Hot showers felt good upon our return, as did dry clothes. We dined at a great authentic Ecuadorian restaurant. Cuy (fried guinea pig) and chicha (fermented corn cider) were sampled, as were the classic dishes of fried pork fritada and llapingachos (potato and cheese patties). This morning the sky is blue with some broken clouds, so were hoping to stay dry on our hike to the climbing hut on the Illiniza volcanoes. This hike will take us to over 15,000', and help prepare us for the altitude on Cotopaxi. I'll be in touch with more updates.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Today we spent the day in the capital city of Ecuador, Quito. Everyone is still recovering from a long day of travel to get here. We spent the day going on a city tour with a local guide. On the tour we visited the colonial parts of town, historic churches, plazas, and the presidential palace, and we learned about the country's history from pre-Incan times through to the present. We then travelled north of Quito to visit Ecuador's namesake, the Equator. Here we took an interpretive, cultural tour, got to stand on the true equator, and sample some authentic empanadas, meat and cheese filled turnovers.
A light afternoon rain gave most of us an excuse for a quick siesta before dinner at the Magic Bean restaurant. The rain let up in the evening, and allowed us to wander the streets of the popular and lively Mariscal district of Quito, which was hopping was nightlife.
Tomorrow we head to Pasachoa, a protected cloud forest and very old volcano, for an acclimatization hike.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Buenas tardes from Ecuador.
Our team is all safely back in Quito now, enjoying hot showers and rest before our final team dinner/celebration tonight. Yesterday we spent the morning in Otavalo, enjoying the expansive indigenous market. Then we headed up to the climbers' hut on Cayambe. After dinner we hit the sack early, in preparation for our alpine start and summit attempt. We awoke to perfect weather...no wind, clear skies (you could see both the Southern Cross and the Big Dipper from the same place!). After a midnight breakfast of oatmeal, bread and jam, and coffee and tea, we ventured out for the climb. The snow conditions were perfect, and it was most likely the most beautiful morning of our trip. The climbing went well, and we neared the nearly 19,000' summit when our climb was thwarted by a huge, impassable crevasse that guarded the summit. The snow bridge that had been used to cross the crevasse had recently collapsed, and we searched back and forth for another option. But in the end, we had to turn around ~250' shy of the true summit. The objective hazards were just too high to press on with any of our other possibilities.
Such is life in the mountains; the team did great, and we enjoyed a spectacular day of climbing. But we were kept ~250 feet away from topping out on the true summit. We dubbed our high point 'cumbre (summit) de los gringos.' Everyone was content with our climbing experiences today, and the great experiences of the entire trip to Ecuador.
Thanks for keeping track of us. Our team members will be on their way home soon. Check back on the 6/20, as RMI's 2nd Ecuador's Volcanoes trip of the summer begins. I'll be back in touch then!
PS...on the descent we scoped a new route, which I'm confident will enable us to get to the summit next week...if the weather cooperates. Stay tuned!
Bueno dias from Ecuador. Yesterday our team reached the summit of (the nearly 20,000') Cotopaxi! When we awoke at midnight, it was snowing lightly. By the time we had breakfast and were ready to start climbing, the snow had let up; some clouds lingered, but stars were visible. The weather for our climb remained excellent: mostly clear skies, calm wind, and relatively mild temperatures. Our team stood on the summit at 7:15 a.m., and was treated to excellent views of the 20,700' Chimborazo, the Ilinizas, and the active volcanos, the Pinchinchas, which rise above Quito. After descending, we traveled out of Cotopaxi National Park to our current location of the hacienda La Cienega. This beautiful hacienda was built in the late 16th century, and has a rich and interesting history, including having housed the first volcanological study of Cotopaxi, and a European geographical expedition to measure the meridians.
We all enjoyed hot showers and a great dinner, before getting some much needed rest. Today we will travel north to our next hacienda, Guachala. We'll rest our legs today before starting our next climb, Cayambe. Tomorrow morning before heading to the climbers' hut on Cayambe, we'll visit the world famous market at Otovalo.
We'll keep you up-to-date with our whereabouts.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Buenos dias from Ecuador.
Yesterday we traveled into Cotopaxi National Park; en route to the climbers' hut we were lucky enough to see six Andean Condors! They were very close to the road and were defintely an impressive sight, with wingspans of more than 6 feet.
Upon arrival at the end of the road, we shouldered our packs and hike 45 minutes to the climbers' hut on Cotopaxi. The rest of the day was spent resting, eating, drinking, playing cards, and telling stories ...the time spent here, at nearly 16,000' will help us get used to the (even)thinner air that awaits above.
This morning we are getting ready to head out to the glacier, in order to stretch our legs and review ice axe and crampon skills. The weather is very nice and we're looking forward to our summit attempt tonight. We will likely leave the hut around 1:00 am, and hopfully we'll be on top at 6 ot 7. We'll be in touch, and I'll send pictures when we have access to the internet in a couple of days.
Hasta luego
Saludos from the beautiful hacienda, Chilcabamba, at 11,500' on the flanks of Cotopaxi. The weather is great, and we have amazing views of our climbing destination, Cotopaxi from our bedroom windows.
We left the city behind today, and ventured south down the 'Avenue of Volcanos'. After an hour and a half of driving, we began our 2nd acclimitization hike. This time we climbed to around 15,400', to the climbers' hut at the saddle between the Ilinizas. This hike travels above treeline, through the rolling hill grassland known as the paramo. Good weather afforded us views of the expansive valleys below, but clouds kept the Ilinizas obscured from view. Everybody did great on this foray into thinner air. It looks like we've got a very strong team for our summit attempt, and the weather looks promising. But, you take it day by day in the mountains...
Tomorrow we'll head to the cliimbers' hut on Cotopaxi, at 16,000'. But right now, our minds are on dinner, the beautiful setting of our hacienda, and comfort and warmth of the woodburning stoves in our bedrooms. Life is good.
Thanks for following our trip, I'll keep you posted with updates.
We had a great acclimatization hike today at the Ecological Reserve Pasachoa, an ancient volcano which now hosts a cloud forest ecosystem. We hiked up to 12,300', and everyone did great. The weather was nice today, and it was great to stretch our legs and work our lungs a little bit. The altitude of this hike will serve us well, as tomorrow we're off to the climbing refugio at the Ilinizas, where we'll hopefully gain an altitude of over 15,000'. Then we're off to a Hacienda on the flanks of our first climbing destination, Cotopaxi.
This evening we enjoyed fine Ecuadorian cuisine on before leaving Quito; adventurous palates even tried the Ecuadorian delicacy of fried guinea pig (cuy) and the locally fermented corn drink called chicha. We're all enjoying the culture of Ecuador and the conveniences of Quito. But we're also very anxious to head for the mountains and leave the city behind. Tomorrow we'll do just that.
We'll keep you up to date on our adventures.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Everyone's planes have arrived, and we had our first official team meeting at breakfast this morning. We discussed logistics for the trip and got to meet everyone, as well as enjoyed our breakfast buffet spread of fresh, local fruits, juices, and pastries. We spent the rest of the day touring the capital city of Quito with our very knowledgeable local guide, Jorge. We visited the colonial parts of Quito, and learned the city's cultural and political history, and then traveled to the "Mitad del Mundo", or the middle of the world. Here we got to stand on the equator and see examples of Ecuador's different cultural groups in the interpretative museum.
Right now we're relaxing for a couple of hours before meeting for dinner. I'll be in touch tomorrow after we return from our first acclimatization hike to the Biological Reserve, Pasachoa.
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Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest
What a difference a day or two can make. The team walked out of Namche and down through the farms and fields of Phak Ding the other morning. In short order, we'd gone from snow, ice and rock to wheat, barley and happy little kids in school uniforms crowding the trails. Erica Dohring and I took the standard six hours to cover the walk from Namche to Lukla under mostly cloudy skies. Compared to the Lhotse Face or the Khumbu Icefall, the stroll to Lukla is not terribly difficult...but sure enough, it ends with uphill just when most tired Everest enthusiasts would prefer for it to be downhill. Through good luck, we didn't get a downpour until we were in the Lukla suburbs and heading for the inn. Our gang was assembled in a spacious and warm dining room, already shuffling cards and drinking tea and settling in for the "airstrip hang" that begins and ends so many of the climbs we frequent. That is the point at which you've done all that you can do with your legs and it is now up to weather and pilots to figure out the rest. I believe our team was ready for the hang to take days since the post-cyclone pattern seemed a lot like pre-monsoon already (translation: clouds giving way to clouds) Pilots in these mountainous regions are known to favor visibility and smart passengers don't quibble with that preference.
We wiled away the afternoon, looking out on the rainy strip of tarmac without much angst over schedules...it being our belief that the team duffels were still buried in basecamp snowbanks anyway and that onward travel without some change in that status was going to be limited. Lam Babu burst the duffel-induced-lassitude around dinner when he announced that he'd received word from Tendi that all of the loads had actually left basecamp as of that very afternoon. We went to sleep in Lukla once more believing that it was possible to get a little lucky on weather. And sure enough, yesterday morning came around sparkly and clear...so much so that during breakfast we watched four planes buzz in and out on the tilted strip. Lukla airport is something similar to a sinking aircraft carrier. There is just room enough for a short-takeoff-and-landing plane to touch down at the lowest end at full speed, flying upward...reverse prop pitch in a rush of air and noise... Jam down the speed to nothing and then quickly taxi into a little corner at the top of the apron so as to get the heck out of the way of the next plane. The aircraft tend to land and takeoff in waves of three and four at a time, every two hours or so (allowing a Katmandu roundtrip) and our scheduled flight was to be part of the second round. Clouds showed up and gathered on the peaks and began to fill the valleys...but not enough to spoil our day. Our flight went off without a hitch or a hiccup and by 11 AM we were checking into hotels in big and dusty Katmandu.
Haircuts, shaves, neck massages, showers, internet, taxi-rides, telephones, televisions...it all came flooding back, just like that. At least a version of it all came back...Katmandu amenities are not exactly the modern comforts that we are spoiled with at home, but they are very welcome, none-the-less. We won't actually head for the international airports without the aforementioned duffels and those -we hope- are on animal backs approaching the Lukla outskirts right now...but then they are subject to the same delays as people (cargo planes don't do any better in mountain-filled clouds) In any case, we expect to be on bigger (less weather-dependent) airplanes in a few days time, winging it over the Pacific. The climb is over. The team still has a few fun get-togethers, including a big dinner with the Sherpa staff this evening, but for the most part now, we go back to being on our own.
There is souvenir shopping and tourism (yesterday happened to be the 56th anniversary of Tenzing Norgay and Sir Edmund Hillary's summit...there were festivities and observances), but then there is also just plain easy hotel lounging. We've all got tons of catching up to do on current events and email. Personally I don't mind the slow pace of waiting for duffels...it isn't simply that the past 10 weeks of Everest climbing were hectic and charged with danger and the fear of failure, it is usually the 10 weeks before that as well, when Everest hangs in the future and must be constantly and vigorously prepared for. By contrast, this after-Everest-and-before-home-limbo-period is quiet and slow-paced. The monkey is off the back for a little while...the rat has been fed, etc. etc.
It may be time to go back and read up on the Everest experiences of the teams that surrounded us for the past season...or to peruse even our own accounts (now that it all can be put in some perspective). Such study and reflection may give us closure...-or possibly aggravation- one never knows...but it will be time to wrap up our thoughts on Everest 2009 in any case. We've all got other mountains -of one sort or another- to climb in the near future.
My hope is that in sharing our trip via text, photos and video, we've given an honest and entertaining glimpse of a place and experience that enthralls us. Having accomplished our personal goals of challenging a big, dangerous and magnificent mountain while keeping safe and coming down as friends, I also hope that we've succeeded in our "business" of demonstrating conclusively that Eddie Bauer is back in the expedition game... to stay.
Thanks very much for following the trip through to its end and for the many thoughtful and friendly comments that have been passed our way.
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