Entries from Expedition Dispatches

RMI Guide Walter Hailes checked in the from the summit of Cayambe at 18,997' today.  The entire group reached the summit in what sounds like great conditions. 

Listen to Walter's voicemail below.

Nice work team!  Congratuations!

The team has safely descended and will enjoy a bit of a rest day tomorrow along with some training.

Three for Three on Mexico’s Volcanoes!

A week of hail storms, dark clouds and lightning was nice and all, but as we drove closer to Tlachichuca and were treated to a stunning view of 18,500 foot Pico de Orizaba backed only by a blue sky, it felt like spring break. 

We were running early and carried that luck all the way up the two hour 4x4 road to Piedra Grande, our Orizaba high camp at 14,000 feet. Dinner was at 4:30pm, and bed time came early at 5:30pm. This allowed us room to at least claim that we’d gotten some good sleep when tents were rattled at 11:30pm. 

As we climbed under a bright half moon with light winds it seemed like cheating. After single-pushing on Ixta what we’d normally do in two days, a simple 4,500 foot climb was coming easy. That is until we hit the 17,000 foot mark and things started to grind. 

But just as things were getting tougher with the elevation, Orizaba gave us all the classics. An amazing sunrise, the pyramid mountain shadow and finally the false summit with only a short walk to the true summit. 

We all stood on top of the highest point in Mexico and third highest point in North America in the warm sun with barely any wind. 

A great finish to a strong trip by all our climbers! 

RMI Guide Joe Hoch

Sunday, February 9, 2025, Day 10.

It was a bright and beautiful morning. We sat in silence, slurping our coffee, and enjoying the last bites of our final basecamp breakfast. Our last for the foreseeable future. We embraced our basecamp staff members with smiles on our faces and set out to begin our official climb on Cerro Aconcagua. "¡Buenas Suerte!" they said, as we waved goodbye. "¡Hasta luego!" we said, as we know we will get to see them again.

As we journeyed up the trail to Camp 1, we could still feel the cool breeze from the early morning freeze. It wasn't long, however, before the high altitude sun warmed us. It was another tough day getting to our destination, but we arrived in high spirits and indulged in some much needed rest. We again witnessed a stormy spectacle as we ate tasty bites for dinner. Now we're settled into the warmth of our sleeping bags, excited to see what all the hooplah is about at Camp 2 tomorrow before returning to Camp 1 for another night.

RMI Guide Ben Luedtke & Team

Yet another day for the books on our trek. After a long day yesterday we were all sore, sleepy, and appreciative that the big day was behind us. The unfortunate part is the the back end of this trip tends to feel like a bit of a whirlwind due to the shear amount of things at our disposal to see. So another early morning it is with the breakfast bell ringing at 6:30 AM. 

After our delicious meal at Refugio Grey we walked about 10 minutes down to the waters of Lago Grey and onto the catamaran to buzz past the icebergs and towards the long Grey glacier we ogled yesterday. We rappelled into a couple of ice caves and spent the morning traversing the glacier and taking in the unbelievable weather and views. 

We still had to get to the next Refugio though so after lunch, we hit the trail and enjoyed the vistas along the ridges that our morning glacier had carved years and years ago. 

We are now at Paine Grande, the biggest Refugio on the trek and a taste of civilization in this vast vast wilderness. Tomorrow we’re hoping for the weather to cooperate for our trip up the French Valley, but it’s supposed to rain. We can’t complain too much though. It’s been unbelievable so far. 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Sunday, February 9, 2025 - 2:57 pm PT

We are excited for our first glaciers in Ecuador.

A fun, bumpy 4x4 ride delivered us to the climbers hut where we unpacked and settled into the penthouse suite. That is a nice way to say we had to haul all our gear up a bunch of stairs and everyone was breathing heavy.

After moving in, we refreshed our walking and cramponing techniques on the rocks and dirt just above the hut.
We also met the rest of our guide team, Carmelo, Jorge and Gustavo who joined us for dinner. They are warm and friendly and quickly becoming part of the team.

We enjoyed a delicious dinner of quinoa-potato soup, followed by chicken and rice. We are getting to bed early in preparation for our early start tomorrow.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

We have arrived at Refugio Grey!! 

Today is one of the hardest days of the trek, certainly the hardest of the “O” portion of the trek. That meant that getting up before the sun, scarfing down our warm breakfast that was mostly coffee, and heading out and up up up. We ascend right out of the gate up a muddy and thin trail as we navigate the last bits of the forest before the tree line. The bitter Patagonian wind woke up before the sun too and was there to greet us as soon as the trees left us. 

Wind, cold, rain, snow, but never too much of any. We persevered up the John Gardner pass and over to the other side of the circuit. And my goodness was a view. People are often asking if the glaciers they are looking at are part of the Patagonian Icefield but one good look at the Grey glacier from the pass and it’s clear to all. As dark as the eye can see right and left is rugged, broken, beautiful glacier. 

7 more hours of a big descent plus the traverse along the glacier brought us to the Refugio we’re at tonight and although there were no games tonight, there will be plenty of good sleeps. 

Tomorrow we continue to Paine Grande, the biggest Refugio in the park and the perfect spot to maybe catch a Super Bowl moment or two! 

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Greetings from base camp at Plaza Argentina!

Today we had a much-needed rest and logistics day after yesterday's heavy carry to Camp One. Strategic packing, a scenic acclimatization hike, a medical clearance visit, and a tactical nap were all on the agenda for today. The day closed with an unexpected thunderstorm that soaked base camp but provided much-needed relief from the high altitude glare of the sun.

As we prepare for the higher mountain, there is a palpable sense of excitement. If we make it to the top, Aconcagua will be a personal altitude record for all but one of us. Wish us luck!

P.S. No large language models were harmed during the creation of this post :)

RMI Climber Yev "Freyverissimo" Freyvert

Friday, February 7, 2025 - 6:57 pm PT

After getting a peak at Cayambe on our hike yesterday, we were eager to make our way to the mountains. We packed our bags and set off from Quito to Laguna Cuicocha, a beautiful crater lake surrounded by jungles and peaks near to our next hotel in Otavalo. Clouds sat high up in the sky for most of the day, sunlight peaking through for the first half of our circumnavigation of the lake. Just as we hit the parking lot after our 7.5 mile hike, the light sprinkle turned into rain and we hopped in the bus to Itinyaya Residencias, our stay for the night. We chatted by the fire in the main lodge after settling into our rooms and capped off the night with a team dinner of more local meals.

RMI Guide Walter Hailes

Goooooood afternoon ladies and gentlemen, from the flight deck we would like to welcome you aboard Aconcagua 2025.

We are finishing up our final preparation before we push back from the gate. Ben and Hannah are two of RMI's finest guides and they are here primarily for your safety so please listen to their briefings even if you're a frequent climber. The climb will take approximately 10 days and hopefully reach an altitude of 22800 ft. Otherwise sit back and enjoy the trip as best as you can and we will get back to the weather and arrival information closer to our destination.

This morning's departure time was delayed for about 30 minutes due to unexpected issues but after a discussion with Maintenance, we are cleared for departure. This then began our 7hr round trip to Mountain Camp 1 to drop a large load of supplies for our climb. After 5hrs on the Mountain Stair master we started our return trip to rest and recharge at Basecamp. We had some unfortunate news today when we were told that Jim E. would not be able to continue with us due to a medical issue. We all hope for the best for him. He will be missed by our other Jim and all of us of course.

Enjoy.

RMI Climber Nick Hanson

After a very relaxed morning drinking coffee, walking along the shores of the lake, and enjoying the views Refugio Dickson had to offer. We were off at the bright and early time of 10 am. Uphill was the first task of the day as we ascend out of the peninsula and up a ridge leading toward our next camp. For the first hour we climb about 1000 ft up to a viewpoint people salivate over. The southern Patagonian Icefield and the Dickson Glacier to our North. The first good glimpse of John Gardner pass (our day tomorrow) to the west. The shield (a granite face towering over the valley) to the south. And a teeny tiny Pygmy Owl above us in the tree to watch us gawk at it, and the views. Unreal.

We travel through so many different forests on this day as we weave and bob through the valley and eventually up toward our final destination. Perros camp. A more rustic camp than the rest, but with all the charm of any. We had a great day.

Right now, the forecast is calling for our best day yet to come on the day we need it the most. Stormy weather makes ascending and especially descending John Gardner’s Pass tricky, but if those models are right, which we know they always are, it’s going to be one hell of a day! For those keeping track, thank you for following along. The Farkle winner tonight was Dolittle (an Appalachian trail Trail Name, not someone’s actual name) it was her first time playing.

Wish us luck tomorrow! It’s a looooong day of trekking!

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli & Team