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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Bolivia Bond and Team Summit Huanya Potosi!

Yesterday was our second summit of the trip, and the first time above 6000m for several members of the team! We had the luxury of being the only group in the refugio on Sunday night so it was easy to get to bed early in advance of our midnight wake up. 

We left the hut at 1 am under a beautiful starry sky. A short rock scramble brought us to the toe of the glacier, which started out as the loud, crunchy ice we’d become accustomed to on Tarija, but quickly transitioned to grippy neve. The night was cold but dead calm, and it was a really pleasant few hours of climbing in the darkness until we finally caught the first rays of sun at the base of the summit pyramid. 

The final few hundred feet to the summit made for the hardest climbing of the day. The challenge of steep, at times rocky and loose walking was compounded by the thin air at almost 20,000’! The team took it in stride and soon we were all on top, admiring the views of La Paz and the surrounding peaks. After high fives, photos and a brief rest we began making our way back down to the hut. Everyone moved well and we made it off the glacier well before noon. With showers, comfy beds and cold drinks in La Paz in mind we only spent about 45 minutes resting at the hut before continuing the descent all the way back to the road. A few hours later we were enjoying a delicious dinner at Hotel Mitru Sur before turning in early for a well deserved night of sleep. 

This morning everyone headed out to explore the city and do some site seeing and souvenir shopping. This afternoon we’ll pack up for Illimani and head south to Pinaya first thing tomorrow. 

RMI Guide Andy Bond & Team

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That TV and those speakers!!!!  The best part is the fireplace.  Glad you got time to rest before the next climb!

Posted by: Sheila Forsyth on 8/13/2024 at 8:18 pm


Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches Top

The Four Day Climb led by RMI Guide Dustin Wittmier reached the summit of Mt. Rainer early this morning. The team climbed above the heavy marine layer, and Dustin reported clear skies and calm winds. It took the team 6 hours and 35 minutes to reach the summit from Camp Muir, and they are now on the descent. 

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise Summits!

The Expedition Skills Seminar - Paradise Team reached the top of Mt. Rainier Early this Morning in 6 hours and 35 minutes.  The team spent the week learning advanced mountaineering skills as they trained on and then ascended the Paradise Glacier to Camp Muir for a summit attempt via the Disappointment Cleaver route. RMI Guide Sam Hoffman reported a clear and calm day on the summit! They will descend via the Muir Snowfield this afternoon.

Congratulations Team!

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Machu Picchu: Grom & Team Reach Machu Picchu

Hello again from Peru.

What an amazing two days we’ve had!

Yesterday the team had a big day hiking the Inca Trail from Llulluchapampa to Winay Wayna. It was a beautiful day with outstanding views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. Along the way we visited several Incan ruins, including Winay Wayna, which is considered a mini Machu Picchu. We wrapped up the our last night camping in the mountains with another wonderful meal and said our goodbyes to incredibly gracious crew of 20 porters and 4 cooks and handed out their much deserved tips.

Today the team rose early for our final hike into Machu Picchu. We left camp shortly after 4 a.m. and headed to the entrance where we had to wait a short while for the park to open up. We hiked for a little more than an hour before reaching the famous Sun Gate of Machu Picchu, where the winter solstice sun rises to shine on the center of Machu Picchu. Unfortunately it was very socked in and so we took a long break hoping it would clear up. Thankfully right as we had given up on the clouds clearing and started our way down the trail the clouds parted and we had stunning views. We spent the majority of the day taking in the scenery, taking endless pictures and touring the grounds of the majestic place. I’ll be the first to tell you that all the pictures and articles about this place don’t come close to how astonishing this place is in person.

The team has safely descended to the valley floor and have had hot shower and are relaxing in our comfortable hotel!

 

RMI Guides Casey Grom and Jess Wedel, and the Chaskis (Incan mountain runners).

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Kilimanjaro: Hahn & Team Gather in Usa River

Ten climbers drifted in to the Rivertrees Country Inn on the banks of the Usa River in Tanzania these last few days. We made it from various spots in the United States all the way to East Africa with our climbing gear intact and our excitement growing. Tomorrow morning we begin a climb of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain on the continent. So today we got ready. We began the day with introductions and a discussion of itineraries and strategies for climbing high. We set our priorities and got acquainted with the challenges to come. All of this went on while monkeys jumped from tree to tree high above in the garden-like hotel compound. Then the team retreated to the hotel rooms where we conducted gear checks and began packing. The day concluded with a weigh-in, to ensure that our staff won’t be overburdened in portering. We gathered briefly in the outdoor bar to watch Olympic highlights before dinner. And finally we fought jet lag and gathered for a pleasant multi-course meal in the indoor/outdoor dining room. We’re all set now, targeting an 8 a.m. departure, but not before a good breakfast, of course.  

Best Regards, 
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

 

PC: Dave Hahn

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Mt. Baker: Smith & Team Summit via the Easton Glacier

RMI Guides Lacie Smith, Nicole De Petris & Margo Kerr and the Mt. Baker - Easton Climb August 10 - 12 have enjoyed a few great days in the mountain. Yesterday, the completed their glacier skills training while watching the clouds roll in.  This morning at 5:50 am the team reached the summit of Mt. Baker. The climb included watching the northern lights, lightning on the eastern horizon and a meteor shower.  What more could you ask for?

Nice work team!

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Bolivia: Bond & Team Reach Summit of Huayna Potosi

Monday, August 12, 2024 - 3:57 AM PT

We are on the summit of Huayna Potosi, it's a calm, beautiful, sunny day.  Summited right at sunrise. We’ll send a longer dispatch tonight or tomorrow when we are back in La Paz when we have internet and can load photos. Everyone is doing well.

RMI Guide Andy Bond

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Congratulations to the team!  Can’t wait to see the photos! 

Posted by: Kate on 8/13/2024 at 4:35 am

Way to go Rhonda, and Team…you’re a stud-ette

Posted by: Sue on 8/12/2024 at 4:33 pm


Mt. Baker: Burns & North Ridge Team Make Summit

RMI Guides Seth Burns & Leif Bergstrom led their team of Mt. Baker - North Ridge climbers to the summit yesterday. They enjoyed a nice day on the mountain and returned to camp after their summit.  They spent last night on the mountain and will be returning to the trailhead later today to conclude their program.

Nice work team!

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I just want to take this time to thanks the guides and to share my appreciation for all participants that contributed to such a lovely experience throughout the journey to the top of baker and back at camp.  It was such a pleasant experience and wish everyone all the best on their adventures to come! 

regards,

Tony C Leon

Keep climbing!

Posted by: Tony Leon on 8/13/2024 at 1:02 pm


Bolivia: Bond & Team Get Ready for summit attempt on Huayna Potosi

Sunday, August 11, 2024 - 6:00 AM PT

We said goodbye to the Condoriri mountain range, and loaded our van to head to our second mountain Huayna Potosi which stands just over 6,000 meters. We arrived at our base hut, which is actually Adriam and Domilita house that they open up to climbers. Adriam is our head porter and we leisurely packed our packs and gear for our journey up to high hut (17,000’) where will spend a little bit of time before heading for the summit.  From their house we have amazing views of the route we’ll be climbing up Huayna. As the sun began to set the winds starting cranking and we were happy to be inside than out in the tents.  Adriam built us a fire and we enjoyed a big family dinner that included a cake for Katherine’s birthday. We awoke this morning to sunny skies and calm winds. We’ll be heading to high camp in the coming hours. We’ll take a short rest before starting our summit attempt early in the morning.  Fingers crossed that the winds co-operate for us!

RMI Guide Andy Bond

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Happy belated Katherine!! 17k feet is your happy place, glad you get to spend your birthday doing what you love. Be SAFE!!

Posted by: Jessee Wyld on 8/12/2024 at 5:14 am

Happy birthday Katherine! I love reading the blogs about the mountain expeditions you’re on, amazing way to spend a b-day!

Posted by: Lori on 8/11/2024 at 9:44 pm


Machu Picchu: Grom & Team Enjoy Awesome Day on Inca Trail

Sunday, August 11, 2024 - 4:35 AM PT

 Hello!

Today we had an awesome day on the official Inca trail. We got an early start and headed up to Dead Woman’s Pass. We started low at 9,800ft and ascended to nearly 14,000ft. The views were beautiful and we took the time to take it all in. We got really lucky as the clouds socked in minutes after we left the pass on our descent to camp.

After over 4,000ft of gain and nearly 2,500ft of loss, we rolled into our camp with tired legs. Another delicious dinner and we are all off to an early bed. We have another big day tomorrow - traveling over two smaller passes and visiting many Inca sites along the way.

RMI Guides Jess, Casey and team

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