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Entries from Expedition Dispatches


Mt. Rainier: Five Day Teams Turned back by High Winds

The Five Day Climb July 19 - 23 led by RMI Guides Henry Coppolillo and Mike Bennett reached 11,300' today before strong winds forced them to switch their ascent to a descent. The teams have returned safely to Camp Muir. They will pack gear and enjoy the morning sunshine from 10,000' before continuing down the remaining 4.5 miles to Paradise later this morning. There adventure will conclude this afternoon at Rainier BaseCamp. 

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Peru Seminar: Davis & Team Enjoy Rest Day in Ishinca Basecamp

July 22, 2024 - 5:25 pm PT

Rest day in Ishinca basecamp. Woke up as the sun hit the valley and were welcomed into the dining tent with omelettes and coffee. We spent the day at our training crag just down the creek where we practiced more knots, hitches, fixed rope ascension, crevasse rescue, anchor building, and haul systems. Early to bed for a final summit attempt of our last peak of the trip, Urus Este.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Glacier Peak: Luedtke & Team Arrive High Camp

July 22, 2024 - 5:48 pm PT

We started the morning with riddles from Ben. We continued to make our way up steep terrain and sandy trails, seeing our first patches of snow. We shooed a brave marmot (Jerry) away at snack time. Rock hopping, we made our way to high camp. Setting up camp in a beautiful snowy basin, we spent the afternoon honing our snow travel skills.

-RMI Climber, Miranda Chisholm

PC: Ben Luedtke

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Glacier Peak: Luedtke & Team Arrive at Base Camp

July 21, 2024 - 5:45 pm PT

Glacier peak. Aptly named for the features we climb, our team set out today for the long journey up. For some of us, it will be 5 of 5 for the Washington volcanoes if we are successful! But alas, it won't come without it's challenges. Off the start, we had a hint of wildfire smoke here and there as we lugged our heavy packs down the trail. It started off cool and calm as we admired the shady grove of old growth trees and picked salmon berries to keep ourselves satiated along the way. But then, we hit the switchbacks. With sweat dripping down our faces, we trudged along in and out of the sun and coolness of the trees. Now, we are set up at camp at White Pass for the evening fending off the swarms of mosquitos with our head nets as we prepare to make dinner, some of us trying to hide in our tents.

RMI Guide Ben Luedtke

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It is great to hear day one went well for the team! Great job everyone!

Posted by: Chris Dennis on 7/22/2024 at 12:52 pm


Peru Seminar: Davis & Team Reach Summit of Ishinca

Sunday, July 21, 2024 - 6:15 pm pT

Alpine start had us leaving camp at 0100 in the cold, clear of night. Thankful the winds died down, we walked by the bright moonlight hardly needing headlamps. We reached the toe of the glacier an hour before dawn and began working our way up the icy slopes, hearing nothing but our footsteps and the occasional cracking and popping of the ancient ice shift beneath our feet. We were greeted with a spectacular sunrise that seemed to last for hours and enjoyed the summit of Ischinca mostly to ourselves, save one party of three. After an hour on the top, we made our way down back to basecamp and rested. We feasted on the finest Lomo Saltado in the Ishinca valley provided by Peter’s father Emilio, a retired guide whom is one of the best camp cooks around. With full bellies and gratitude we enjoyed another beautiful alpine sunset and promptly got into our sleeping bags for some good earned rest. Photos to come!

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Peru Seminar: Davis & Team Train Near Basecamp

July 20, 2024 - 5:45 pm PT

Woke with the sun and some good Peruvian coffee. The winds were quite strong and kept us tent bound initially. We spent the day resting and working on knots, hitches, and rappelling at our campside crag. After dinner it was early to bed for another alpine start as we attempt the valley’s namesake, Ishinca, in the wee hours of the morning.

RMI Guide Alan Davis

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Peruvian coffee definitely sounds tasty!

Posted by: Some guy from Puyallup on 7/21/2024 at 11:53 am


Mt. Rainier: Cifelli, Breen & Teams on Summit

The Four Day Climb July 18 - 21 led by RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli and Jackson Breen reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today around 5:30 am. The team is on their descent and once back at Camp Muir will repack and take a short break before contining the final 4,500' to Paradise.  Reports from the mountain are warm temperatures and light winds.

Nice work team!

Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

What an amazing experience!  Dylan and I are so grateful for our fantastic guides - Jackon, Will and Claire - you guys were the best!  That Crux section will be embedded in my memory for life!

 

 

 

Posted by: Brendan Curran on 7/22/2024 at 1:22 pm


Mt. Baker - Easton Glacier: Burns and Team Summit

Seth Burns and Team had a great three days on Mt. Baker. The team practiced mountaineering skills just outside of camp and climbed the Easton Glacier under bluebird skies reaching the 10,781' summit early this morning. 

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Rainier: Four Day Climb Reaches the Summit!

The Four Day Climb Led by RMI Guides Brent Okita and Roland Scott reached the summit of Mt. Rainier early this morning. Brent Okita reported a beautiful day on the summit with great route conditions. The team is on the descent and will be back at Rainier Basecamp this afternoon to celebrate. 

Congratulations Team! 

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Peru Seminar: Team Sets up Basecamp in the Ischinca Valley

Friday, July 19, 2024

Checking in from the Ischinca Valley Basecamp. We had quite the adventure on the bus, doing a little bridgework to get us in. We arrived at Pashpa around 11:00 am and began our 4 hour approach back to 14,300’ where we set up our basecamp and will be here for the next 5 nights.

We were grateful for the support of the burrows and beautiful Mountain View’s. Tomorrow we will do some training and practice skills while resting at Basecamp.

RMI Guide Alan Davis & Team

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