Entries from Expedition Dispatches

Thursday, December 5, 2024 - 8:40 am PT

It is always amazing to reflect on how long it takes for anyone to dream and prepare for any large mountain, especially for one as remote as the Vinson Massif. For some that time can be measured in decades. For today we can reflect as we decend from high camp. We started from over 12,000' elevation down the fixed lines, past Camp 1 where we pick up our sleds, all the way to Vinson Base Camp. From there we flew back to Union Glacier Camp. Once we got off the ski plane we got confirmation that after dinner we are going to board our Boeing 757 to Punta Arenas tonight. Meaning we get to go from negative thirty something to nice hotel temperatures. What a change in settings.

RMI Climber Forrest Heller

100% Summit!!

I was thinking the other day about just how motivated people have to be to come climb big mountains. It just takes so much effort, from paying for it, training for it, and actually doing it. Real go getters, doers. At the same time, I thought it was quite funny that those same type A, don’t sit around type of people. Have to sit in tents, bide their time, and do nothing for days on end in order to climb these mountains. They take time, patience, preparedness, and luck of course.

Today was our lucky day. We finally had the night we’ve been wanting. Still, cool, clear. And in the “morning” (the sun only hides for 2 hours behind Vinson) it was all systems go. We throttled the stoves and ate our breakfasts. We got our harnesses on and donned our gloves. We started to climb, and… continued to climb.

Vinson summit day involves gentle rolling slopes with bouts of steep seemingly unrelenting hills. It climbs Southeast through the Vinson Massif in the Jacobsen Valley situated at the base of Vinson. Behind, breathtaking views North to Tyree and Shinn from angles we hadn’t yet encountered. The Grand Finale? The summit ridge. A long traverse over the top of Vinson with steep drop offs to both sides, sprawling views, and bitter wind. 100% of the team stood on top this afternoon at 3:34PM.

We did all that today and more. We accomplished a goal that didn’t know we could achieve, we summitted the tallest peak in Antarctica on the best day we could have asked for. We’ll sleep well tonight after we scarf our dinners and run to our tents. Tomorrow, we start the descent.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli & Team

December 2, 2024 - 12:41 pm PT

The first thing you notice about Antarctica, as you look out the airplane window anxiously anticipating your arrival, is the scale. The scale of Antarctica is infinite. Snow, ice, mountains and clouds seemingly go on forever.

Then you notice the colors of Antarctica. The colors of Antarctica are equally enticing, but they are few - only the endless white and the brilliant blues. The pure white ice and snow that cover this grand continent interrupted only by the the hints of blue tinting the cracks in the glaciers when the sun hits them just right, the natural blue ice runway, and the vast blue sky. (This of course ignores the spectrum of bright primary colors in the climbers’ down coats, tents and other gear that pepper the landscape, but those are not the natural colors of Antarctica.)

Then you notice the sounds of Antarctica. The sounds of Antarctica are many, and they are distinct. Each step on the ice in our mountain boots and crampons delivers a high-pitched squeak,  like pieces of styrofoam being rubbed together - squeak, squeak, squeak - so loud it’s impossible to have a conversation while walking. Each plant of our poles similarly punctuates every step with an exclamation mark. The sound of Dominic firing up our camp stove is similarly unique. The roar of the white gas igniting like a miniature jet engine summoning us to our cozy mess tent for hot drinks.

And the melodic chatter coming from the tents of the Chinese contingent we are sharing high camp with, matched by the friendly sing-song of Anja’s voice greeting us each day - “good morning” - wishing us a nice meal - “bon appetite” - or singing us a German lullaby before bed.

But the most distinctive and telling sound of all is the howl of the wind. And boy does it howl. The howl tells us it’s cold, very, very cold. And, unfortunately,  for the last two nights starting in the early hours of the morning the relentless howl has clearly and triumphantly announced that we would not be climbing today. That we would remain at high camp, confined to our cramped tents for another day. That the summit would have to wait. The howl is the gatekeeper to our adventure. So here we are again today - our third day at high camp - relying on our creativity to pass the time. Meeting other climbers from around the world and chatting with them for as long as you can stand the biting cold, shivering in front of the stack of squeaky styrofoam ice blocks arranged to give a hint of privacy while you try to poop into a plastic bag before you get frostbite in places you had never before worried about getting frostbite.  Or laughing and telling stories of our prior adventures in the mess tent over cups of hot chocolate.  Or listening to a podcast, concerned the entire time you’re wasting valuable battery life that will cost you pictures of the summit when we get  there tomorrow, or the next day, or the next day …

RMI Climber Chris Lind

Sunday, December 1, 2024 - 11:45 am PT

Yesterday we had the most beautiful day, mostly calm, clear skies, warm enough. The strange thing was that it was forecasted that we would have high winds and blowing snow. It wasn’t that the forecast was wrong necessarily, it just got the timing wrong. At around midnight the winds showed up, transporting about half a foot of snow around our tents and in every nook and cranny it could find. Bitter cold, shaking our tents, and making it clear today was no summit day. So instead we woke, winds still howling, and got to work. Building higher walls, clearing the nooks of our gear of snow, and making a high camp breakfast of bacon, eggs, and hash browns. We’ll take another day to recoup, rehydrate, and eat eat eat. Crossing our fingers that tomorrow is our day! Whoever didn’t wish us luck back at home, we blame you entirely.

Till tomorrow!
RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Sunday, December 1, 2024 - 11:45 am PT

Yesterday we had the most beautiful day, mostly calm, clear skies, warm enough. The strange thing was that it was forecasted that we would have high winds and blowing snow. It wasn’t that the forecast was wrong necessarily, it just got the timing wrong. At around midnight the winds showed up, transporting about half a foot of snow around our tents and in every nook and cranny it could find. Bitter cold, shaking our tents, and making it clear today was no summit day. So instead we woke, winds still howling, and got to work. Building higher walls, clearing the nooks of our gear of snow, and making a high camp breakfast of bacon, eggs, and hash browns. We’ll take another day to recoup, rehydrate, and eat eat eat. Crossing our fingers that tomorrow is our day! Whoever didn’t wish us luck back at home, we blame you entirely.

Till tomorrow!
RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Saturday, November 30, 2024 - 5:48 pm PT

Today is rest day in Camp 2. I don’t know what Dom’s blog said about yesterday’s ‘hike’ to Camp 2, but it was hellish. Endless fixed lines, rising almost perpendicularly - a little exaggerated - and me demonstrating the art of the ascender to all. We literally died when we reached Camp 2. So today was Lazarus day - the day to bring the team back from the dead. We slept, or rested, ‘til about noon. Chris had a quick blood transfusion to overcome the odor poisoning he suffered in our tent last night.  Then it was hydration, eat, and construct our best version of the mess tent. Dom has taken over design, as he was quite put out by the excellent design the rest of the team executed in Base camp without his input or supervision, while he tunneled looking for the origin of man, or more accurately Dave Hahn. Dom is quite fussy about his cooking space, the worktop height, easy access to the spice rack - it’s a bit like Gordon Ramsey! In fairness he is an ace with the ice-saw.
We had a quick stroll to the most fantastic viewing point.  Looking down on the dot of Camp 1 in the valley below, and the most incredible view of Mt Shin, and the pinnacle ridge leading to Tyree. However it is way too cold to linger, someone said -25F.  Antartica brings a whole new definition to the word cold.  Hopefully Lazarus day works and we’ll be fit to give Vinson a shot tomorrow.

- RMI Climber Myles

November 29, 2024 - 10:15 pm PT

Well just like the Dude, Mother Nature abided (for the most part) we woke up to clear skies still air and sunshine, everything was saying go. So we did. We’re trying to hit a weather window on Sunday that looks gooood for summiting and so we chose to skip the carry up the fixed lines and give it a go in one shot.
Holy F**king Shit it was hard, but we made it. Heavy loads, steep slopes and 3000+ feet of gain with packs that could moonlight as ship anchors, we climbed to Vinson High Camp.

So absolutely proud that we were able to make it up here in such style and I’ll save you the nitty gritty for your climber to regale you with later. We take a well deserved rest day tomorrow (or today, it’s 3am) and will gear up for our summit push Sunday.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli

Thursday, November 28, 2024 - 8:18 pm PT

Vinson Thanksgiving

It’s 1AM here the time of day is such a backdrop in Antarctica. The sun circles overhead and the only setting we get is when it hides behind one of the many unbelievable peaks surrounding us.
Our Thanksgiving wasn’t quite the same this year, we traded turkey, stuffing, sweet potatoes for frozen milky ways, rock hard Swedish fish, quesadillas and steak with mashed potatoes (microwaveable pouches from back home).
And we moved!

We traveled from Vinson Basecamp to Camp 1 with a light breeze at times and snow that made for good sled pulling. Views beneath the West face of Vinson, Shin, and Tyree have us gobsmacked every time we look up. Which admittedly I wish was more. We’ll sleep here tonight in the hopes of moving to high camp tomorrow but we will see what the weather has in store. Wish us luck!!!

- RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli
 

Wednesday, November 27, 2024 - 8:05 pm PT

Anja‘s Blog:

With the calm sound of snow falling on our tents in the ear we cosily fell asleep after a satisfying first day on Vinson basecamp. Todays morning surprises us with a pristine snow-covered landscape, the sun glimpsing at us once in a while. What a Privilege to be here and be able to observe all These changing Moody of nature in a breathtakingly beautiful scenery! But for now, there is no time for further contemplation: work must be done- we will be going up the glacier towards camp 1 to cache.

The sun pleased us the whole day: without wind we were sometimes even sweating on our way up. As we had a good pace, we overtook two teams! In the end Dominic extended our caching to one more leg : we brought our heavy packs and sleds close to Camp 1 ( uphill walking time 4.5 h, 750 elevation gain). On our way back to basecamp we almost ran: we were very happy to reach "Home sweet Home“ after two hours. Suppen was extraordinary, because from the stock we found 3 m deep in the glacier ( that is an extra Story, not for now) . We are now going to bed with a happy smile on our faces- and with the lullaby, Shackelton loved so much: "Guten Abend, gute Nacht…“ (unfortunately, we could not take an audio …)

Good night to all our beloved ones from Team Vinson 2024

We’ve officially made it to Vinson Basecamp, a significant milestone for our team as we prepare for the climb ahead. The flight into this remote corner of Antarctica is always an unforgettable experience, with vast expanses of ice and jagged peaks stretching to the horizon. We are not alone here at Basecamp, as teams from around the world make their final preparations as well. There’s a collective sense of purpose here, a shared understanding of the challenges and rewards that come with climbing the highest peak on this frozen continent.

Tomorrow, we plan to either move camp or cache supplies at the bend in the Branscomb Glacier. This marks the start of our climb, where strategy and teamwork will play a critical role. Caching supplies is a useful tool to ensure we can move efficiently while staying prepared for what lies ahead. 

Standing at basecamp, the magnitude of our shared objective is clear. This is a team effort in every sense and we're ready. We know the climb will test us, but thats what we came here for. We’re ready to take the next chess move toward the summit.

RMI Guide Dominic Cifelli & Team