Entries from Kilimanjaro

Today was big in every way.  We woke at 11 last night and got climbing at midnight, as planned.  It was a beautiful night with a big moon and not much wind. There were plenty of other climbing teams on the move at the same time. It looked like a big Christmas parade with all the headlights.  Thomas, our lead guide, did a wonderful job weaving our team through the traffic on the route. 

It was progressively colder as we got higher and closer to dawn, so of course we were interested in keeping moving.  We took short rest breaks to add more clothing and to take in food and water.  It was still dark as we hit Stella Point on the crater rim a few minutes after 6 AM, but the sunrise was imminent. We enjoyed the victory lap along the rim over to Uhuru (the true summit) as morning broke.

The team hit Uhuru at 7:05 AM. We took pictures and gazed around in wonder from the continental high point. By 7:30 we were headed down.  About three hours later, we were back in Barafu being serenaded by our staff as they sang a few traditional Kilimanjaro songs. We repacked and ate a great lunch before taking on one of the bigger challenges of the day - dropping another 5,000 vertical feet to reach Mweka Camp.

It would be a rough hike on fresh legs, which ours were not. But by 5 PM, we'd all made it. Life is considerably easier way down here at 10K.Especially with the excellent dinner our team put together. Quality sleep is next.

Best Regards, Dave

Barafu. High Camp, 15,200 ft, poised for the summit push.  We are into some nice weather now.  It was calm and clear and not all that cold this morning at Karanga Camp.  After another of chef Tosha’s wonderful mountain breakfasts, we set out for high camp.  Naiman led the way today, taking us up broad and easy terrain for the first hour or so.  Above 14,000 ft the trail got a little more rocky and narrow in places but it wasn’t giving our seasoned team any real trouble.  We took a couple of long and lazy rest breaks today so that our staff of porters and camp builders could get out ahead.  Even so, we were walking into Barafu by 11 AM.  This gave plenty of time for resting and rehydrating and strategizing for tonight’s climb. 

It’ll be an early dinner and then early to bed for this team.  We hope to launch for the summit at midnight.  All systems are go. 
 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We took on the Great Barranco Wall today. It was a wonderfully clear night and calm clear morning at Barranco Camp. We got all ready for some rock scrambling and set out behind Thomas - our lead guide - at 8 AM. Naturally, everyone else in Barranco Camp took off at the same time. Before long we were rubbing shoulders with an extremely diverse mix of climbers and porters as we reached for lava holds and footholds connecting the various ledges. Inevitably, there were some traffic jams and bottlenecks at the spicier features of the route. We were patient and eventually we were through the crowds and moving well.

Our staff beat us to the top of the wall and had a table set with tea and snacks when we topped out. Since Karanga Camp wasn’t so far away, we lingered at the top of the wall, people watching and mountain gazing.  We used the final hours of today’s journey to practice some efficient techniques for our hill climbing. By 2 PM we were eating lunch in another perfectly constructed camp - Karanga at 13,200 ft. We rested and ate our way through the afternoon. 

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We were in clouds from daybreak at Shira Camp today. We could still see Kibo, Kilimanjaro’s central peak, from time to time but mostly we saw clouds and more clouds. It was not necessarily bad for walking though. We got on the trail just before 8 AM and walked up gently inclined slopes toward Kibo. The trail was much less steep than yesterday’s workout, but we still gained altitude steadily. By noon we’d reached our intended high point for the day, 15,200 ft at the base of the “Lava Tower” we were denied the big views as the clouds were particularly thick and a little cool there.  That did not stop us from enjoying a picnic lunch provided by our amazing kitchen staff.

We were certainly ready to get lower, so we followed Omar down the steep track leading to the Barranco Valley. Omar is one of our five local guides. Yesterday we followed Happyson and the day before that Godlove. It didn’t take the team long to go from the “Alpine Desert” vegetative zone to the Moorland. We came down into a garden of Giant Senecios and Lobelias. Dropping to 13,000 ft we rolled into Barranco Camp at about 2:30 PM. Eventually the clouds parted to reveal Kibo with its hanging glaciers and ice fields as well as the Great Barranco Wall -our challenge for tomorrow morning. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We bit off another chunk.  The day started at 6:30 AM at Machame Camp, which was cool and shady before the sun came over the mountain.  We had breakfast and threw our packs on just before 8 AM. The trail today was a little steeper and a little more relentlessly uphill compared to yesterday.  But we made fine progress up through a forest of giant heather.  Eventually we could look out to see that we were above a sea of clouds, and we could look over to Meru, a neighboring 15,000 ft volcano on the western horizon. 

We began to identify Senecios and Lobelias -two of the distinctive plants endemic to Kilimanjaro.  We worked hard today, but nowhere near as hard as the many porters who passed by with loads balanced on their heads, somehow staying at ease on the difficult rock steps.  Eventually we took a left turn, traversing between old layers of lava to turn the corner onto the Shira Plateau.  We reached Shira Camp at about 12,600 ft at 12:30 PM.  This marks our westernmost point for the climb, and the next days will have us moving east on our wandering route to the summit. 
 

The team enjoyed a restful afternoon and evening in our comfortable new camp. 
 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We woke to clear skies at the Rivertrees Inn. Previously it had been overcast and even drizzly in the mornings.  The team was done with breakfast and packed up right on schedule.  We boarded the bus just after 8 AM and got on the road to Kilimanjaro.  The mountain was visible from the highway but the view got better as we approached and had less smoke and haze.  The Machame Gate to the National Park was bustling and busy.  It was a relief to have all paperwork and permitting done and to finally get walking, which we did shortly after 11 AM.  It was a stair master day as we started at 6000 ft bound for 10,000 ft.  The trail was in fine condition and it was clear that the National Park had been taking on major improvement projects.  We were lucky to see several families of black and white Colobus monkeys playing in the big trees as we walked.  It was hot and sweaty at first, but eventually things clouded over and the air cooled as we approached 10,000 ft.  We managed the walk in 5.5 hours.  It was a true pleasure to come into a perfectly constructed and completed camp.  Our staff greeted us cheerfully and showed us our tent home. 

We moved in and then got together for tea time and a 6:30 PM sumptuous dinner in the dining tent. Judging by the laughter, the day hadn’t been so difficult for our team.  We went over plans for getting going to new heights tomorrow and headed for bed at 8 PM, pausing -of course- to see the southern cross and a few other unfamiliar southern hemisphere constellations. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave & Team

Ten climbers drifted in to the Rivertrees Country Inn on the banks of the Usa River in Tanzania these last few days. We made it from various spots in the United States all the way to East Africa with our climbing gear intact and our excitement growing. Tomorrow morning we begin a climb of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain on the continent. So today we got ready. We began the day with introductions and a discussion of itineraries and strategies for climbing high. We set our priorities and got acquainted with the challenges to come. All of this went on while monkeys jumped from tree to tree high above in the garden-like hotel compound. Then the team retreated to the hotel rooms where we conducted gear checks and began packing. The day concluded with a weigh-in, to ensure that our staff won’t be overburdened in portering. We gathered briefly in the outdoor bar to watch Olympic highlights before dinner. And finally we fought jet lag and gathered for a pleasant multi-course meal in the indoor/outdoor dining room. We’re all set now, targeting an 8 a.m. departure, but not before a good breakfast, of course.  

Best Regards, 
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

Our last full day of our safari did not disappoint. After a morning of souvenir hunting we arrived at Tarangire National Park ready for more action, and got it within minutes of going through the gate. 

Warthogs, elephants and a bunch of other critters came our way in the first hour. A lot of close up encounters with giraffes and elephants stole the show, with the finale happening in the final minutes as we drove adjacent a huge and incredibly green swamp area and had a herd of elephants cross in front of us and proceed to cover themselves in mud and even dunk themselves in the water like kids at a pond. An amazing site! 

Our 'camp' in the middle of the Park is pretty cool too. Like all these camps in the bush, our living quarters are screened in canvas tents enclosing some high end furnishings. Kind of swank and kind of fun. 

One last morning of safari awaits us as sadly our trip comes to a close. 

Until tomorrow. 

Jambo!

RMI Guide Brent Okita

PC: Shout out to Jeff Tracy, on his 3rd Kilimanjaro climb, for the beautiful photos!

A spectacular day! But this doesn't even do justice to what we saw in the crater. Besides the thousands of animals we saw all day, we were especially lucky to see three black rhinos, which are exceptionally rare. And better yet, we got up close to a pride of lions.  Like 30 or so feet away!  Wildebeast, zebras, ostriches and a bunch of other critters also a close up show. 

Following our safari we visited a Masai village which helped us understand better their culture and life. 

And tomorrow ... Tarangire!

All for now since I'm falling asleep. 

Cheers,

RMI Guide Brent Okita and Team

Tuesday, August 6, 2024 - 8:09 am PT

Today was the first day of our safari following a well-deserved night of sleep. Our drive to Lake Manyara offered up the sights of Arusha and the Masai land the lie between the Park and our hotel. Life and commerce is just so different from what we have at home. So much more personal and social. So much happens on the street. 

Our safari guides, Jafari and Comfort, are huge reservoirs of information and ready to speak on just about anything. But of course, they shine when they speak of the flora and fauna we're seeing. 

Jafari indicated up front that the rains and flooding of winter and spring have led some animals to leave Lake Manyara National Park, and have forced the closure of some roads elsewhere, but that didn't keep us from being entertained by baboons and elephants, up close and personal. (Have you ever heard an elephant pass gas? A first for me!). Monkeys, cool birds, more elephants and an excellent lunch followed. And now we're at our hotel, the Plantation Lodge. Check it out. It's wonderful!  So nice to be able to relax in perfect weather at this amazing lodge.

Truth be told, I'm writing this from a comfy chair poolside where Jeff, Alan and Kevin just stopped by after their run. 

Next up: an early start for the Ngorongoro Crater, which is truly a wonder of the world for the wildlife that calls the crater home. We're psyched!

RMI Guide Brent Okita