Mt. Everest Expedition: Difficult Choices When Climbing Mt. Everest
Sara McGahan, Linden Mallory and myself set out from Base Camp just after 5 AM on a final mission through the Khumbu Ice fall. It was meant to be our summit bid. When we reached the first series of ladders over crevasses, we took a break. Linden and I were pleased that we'd reached this point relatively quickly, but it was clear that Sara's mind was not entirely on the day's climbing. She spoke up to say that she wasn't entirely sure she wanted to go through with the planned week-long summit push. We suggested retreating to Base Camp in order to reassess and Sara agreed that would be the best course of action. During the morning at base, Sara bravely grappled with a heavy choice. She wasn't alone, of course, having the counsel of her Dad there in person and her Mom on the phone, but ultimately, the choice was hers to make. In some ways, despite the danger and brutally hard physical work of a summit push, choosing to go on would have been the easier option. Sara made the more difficult choice. She ended her bid to get up Mount Everest at age 16 and she did it with a smile. Bill and Sara discussed things a bit and made clear that they didn't want that decision to end the greater expedition... even though they are the expedition's principal members.
After a few more talks, it was decided that Bill and Sara would leave Base Camp by helicopter in the morning, bound for home, while Linden and I, along with Kaji, Tchherring and Dawa, would continue to work toward the summit. Linden and I intend to lighten our packs and to tighten our itinerary some in order to fit in the "weather window" we believe will materialize in a few days. We won't carry nearly as much emergency gear, now that we aren't guiding, but we still want to be responsible Everest citizens... able to help ourselves and our teammates out of a jam and perhaps even to be of use to others in peril. But definitely as we begin this new venture, the packs will be lighter and the pace will be faster. Linden and I will go all the way to Camp 2 tomorrow, we'll rest a day and recheck the forecasts, and then we'll aim to hop directly up to Camp 4 and set out for the summit that same night. There is still the usual amount of mystery in it for us... we don't actually know what the weather will do (our forecasts are good, but the mountain doesn't much care about such things) we don't actually know what our bodies will do. Linden Mallory is a strong and experienced climber and guide, but he will be venturing nearly a vertical mile beyond familiar heights. I've been up top a few times and should enjoy all the benefits of muscle memory and brimming self-confidence, except... my 20 year span of venturing to 28,000 and 29,000 ft has been anything but smooth, easy and predictable. But I want to see that high up world again. I want Linden to see it as well.
I would have loved for Bill and Sara to see the sunrise from up there near the top of the world and despite the pride I take in knowing they both came to mature and sensible decisions... I do feel a slight letdown in knowing that "guiding" this time around did not result in standing on top with my clients. On the other hand, my climbers are happy and healthy and excited about seeing their family and their home. They both climbed safely up and down dangerous slopes for weeks on end, reaching ridiculous heights. And they saw a number of spectacular sunrises, sunsets, moonrises and moonsets through gargantuan mountain passes. Sara may write in the coming days about her decision and perhaps it will become clear then as to just how completely we've failed (for now) in our bid to turn her into just another self-absorbed, egotistical, mountain-obsessed, risk-addicted climber.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
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Comments (23)
dear sweet girl…to me, making this “summit” of a decision is what goes on in life…the truth of how you feel will set you free…i think all those that surround you and support you have done so knowing this experience, summit or no summit is an amazing process to have…it teaches you to know yourself…and that, my dear is a beautiful, natural, amazing thing. You have filled the world with strength and beauty, honesty and love…and that is sa-weeet!
Posted by: nancy on
I so sorry to hear Sara had to make the tough decision to come home slightly early. I was climbing this year aged 19 and came home after I became seriously ill, so I’ve been closely following Sara’s progress and really routing for her! I know it’ll prove to be the right choice, and inevitably you’ve both achieved your main aim- to get back home safe. It takes a stonger person to accept that going for the summit isn’t the right option than it takes to reach the summit! You were clearly a strong climber with a level head and should be so proud of what you achieved. All the best, Beckyx
Posted by: Becky Bellworthy on
Bill and Sara, So glad that you’ll both be coming back from a fantastic experience. Good choices, both of you. Through the Icefall intact!!
Posted by: Mac Bridges on
Can’t wait to see you both and hear about the trip. I am so proud of you both. Dave, Linden and team, I feel like I know you from the posts and wish you all the best as you continue to climb. Be safe and best of luck!
Posted by: Martin on
sara and bill—the best of decisions are made. you two have accomplished so much physically, mentally and spiritually embracing this mountain. and, bill, this is one correlation i will never forget. i went to london on my 50th; you climbed everest. what a milestone achievement. take care of each other as you travel back to the states. i am still awestruck at your achievements. 99.9% of people would never even think of this venture, let alone try it.—love ya….
Posted by: aunt mary on
Sara and Bill, I too met you in Namche while on the way to Base Camp with Mountain Madness. I congratulate you both on making a courageous decision. I can say from experience, that you had to be brave, know yourself, and love and respect those who love you to make that decision. I did not get to Base Camp because I got Acute Bronchitis and had to make the decision just before Lobuche whether to go on up or go back down. I hope to try again in Oct. or Nov.
Sara, you and I are at the opposite ends of the age spectrum, you at 16 and I at 75. What a journey for both of us.
Again congratulations, on your climb and on your decision making.
Posted by Barbara Gessaman on 5/17/2011 as 10:49 P.M.
Posted by: Barbara Gessaman on
HEY SARA!!!!
it was so good to hear your voice on the phone today, even thought i could barely hear you it was so nice to hear your laugh! i miss you every day saysee!! you are my inspiration and i know you can do all things through God who is with you all along the way! Good luck and i love you so much!!!
XOXOXO mary carson - maysee
ps. i am pretty sure all the post i have made have been on the mt.mckinley blog… Oops, but i hope you know i am praying for you!! i miss you soo much!!
Posted by: mary carson dobbs on
SAYSEE
i cannot WAIT to see you! i get excited butterflies just thinking about it! :) i know this decision was hard, but the important thing is that you did what you wanted to do. and what you have done is still the most amazing thing that anyone i know has ever done! i cant wait to hear everything about your numerous adventures when i see you in a few days! i love you so much! MISS YOU! -emma
ps i have been wearing your bracelet non stop :)
Posted by: Emma Payne on
Sara and Bill, I cannot add to the wonderful words already said. You both are an inspiration to us all. At the end of the day, may have been tougher to make the right decision than to push ahead for the summit bid. We are all anxiously awaiting your return and stories, photos, etc. Congratulations on your Mount Everest accomplishments-they are many!
Posted by: Bob Davis on
We are so proud of you both. Here’s to the journey! We can’t wait until you get home. Safe travels.
Posted by: Kasey, Sophie & Emma on
Sara- Im so so so proud of you and your accomplishments over the past few weeks!! I know it was tough, but you made the right decision. It doesnt even matter though because you still climbed mt everest… the tallest mountain in the whole world!!!!! and Im super happy because you get to come home!!! everyone misses you so much!!! i love you!!!!!! - lilly
Posted by: lilly on
We love y’all and can’t wait to see you - A, K, & Rt
Posted by: alfred olivetti on
Sara and Bill, we met up in Namche some weeks ago, whilst on a Mountain Madness trip to Base Camp. We made it ! But only just. I have been enthralled by your daily logs and followed them with a specific interest having met you all in person. Dave wrote the definitive statement concerning your decision .. Nothing can be added. So it is with a certain amount of selfish loss that you bid farewell to this attempt at a summit ... I cannot follow you every day on your bid. But it is with an incredible respect for your young-maturity that I wish you well on your return and a welcome reunion with your family. Bon voyage. Chris
Posted by: Chris Underhill on
Sara, you are wise beyond your years. I’m proud of you and your dad’s accomplishments, and grateful that you know when to come home. It’s awesome reading about your decision making processes and good judgement. I can’t wait to see you two around the neighborhood again!
Penn
Posted by: Penn McClatchey on
We couldn’t be prouder of both of you and can’t wait to welcome you home! The journey has been amazing, even for us armchair warriors following your blog. You have indeed inspired us to do things we ordinarily would not try. Hugs, Carolyn
Posted by: Carolyn on
I applaud Sara for being self aware enough at such a young age to follow her instincts and step away if it didn’t feel right. How many skilled adults have failed to listen to that voice and paid so heavily?
You have already done far more than most of any age.
Posted by: Dave on
A very tough and mature decision made on Sara’s part. I can’t believe she is 16 on Mt. Everest! She is a very cool girl.
Posted by: Sarah on
I am so proud to know you both. You two are remarkable climbers. Wise and highly accomplished. What an incredible journey you have both made. Please be safe on your return home. I cannot wait to hear all about it first hand.
Posted by: Lowndes Harrison on
To Dave and the entire team.
Thank you all for taking good care of my Nephew and his daughter and sending the brave climbers home in one piece.
I have a friend that has been on that climb and he ended off at about the same spot.
I have heard the war stories and know that timing is everything on that kind of an expedition.
Again, Thanks for the care and good wishes for your future adventure.
Bill & Sara’s Aunt
Posted by: Marie McGahan on
Sara and Bill,
What an experience and adventure you’ve shared! You’ve certainly shown real courage not just by climbing but by facing and making tough decisions. That is true success. How proud I am of you! Safe home.
Dave, thank you for your description and thoughts and guidance. You convey real feeling for your calling and the responsiblity that goes with it. Plus you make the beauty and mystery of the mountains real for us armchair visitors. Thank you.
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on
So very proud of you both and can not wait to see you guys. Be safe coming home!!! love- Stacey/Aunt Stacey
Posted by: Stacey on
Can’t wait to see you both. Save travels home. Excited to hear about all your adventures. We’re all so proud of you! James
Posted by: James on
Sara and Bill,
Whoo hoo! You guys are top of the world no matter how you look at it. What a hugely successful trip and so glad you are coming home. From my perspective you’re both top of the world. Hugely impressive accomplishments both as climbers and decision-makers. Awesome. Love, Anita
Posted by: Anita on