Mt. Everest Expedition: The Summit Bid is Getting Close
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The summit bid is getting close. This is how I know:
1. Dave, Linden and Tuck (aka Mark Tucker who is called everything but 'Mark') are constantly huddled around the latest weather report, which seem to come out every 2 to 3 hours. The weather forecast is murky (which is better than it being bad). What Dave, Linden and Tuck seem to know is that no big storm is on the horizon, but the jet stream seems to be on the move. The question is "when" the jet stream is going to move, and then how fast its going to move. We do not want any of our team high on the mountain when the jet stream is over us. We know its going to be cold up there, but what we want to work hard to avoid is high winds. Here is the understatement of the year: the level of difficulty in predicting the weather at 29,000 feet is quite high.
2. Lots of other climbing teams are comparing notes on when to start their bid. It seems that other teams have different forecasts and information, but the conclusions seem to be the same: even the people making the forecasts don't have a high degree of confidence in them, and that the forecasts are uncertain.
3. Our entire climbing team of 7 people seem to be fully rested and well (not sick). This means that they have been down long enough to have their full strength and are ready to start climbing when it is determined that its time to go. I keep bugging Sara to "eat more" and "drink more" to build up her strength but she 1) knows what to do, and 2) is tired of listening to me. Everyone on the team has lost their baby fat, some even a touch of their adult fat, on this trip, but we have to keep trying to eat as much as possible to keep our strength.
4. Our Sherpa team has done a phenomenal job of strategically positioning gear on the mountain. We have tents positioned at Camps 1, 2, 3 and 4 (although the Camp 2 tents are the only ones 'up' - the rest are in bags - due to the ever present threats of high winds), and our oxygen bottles and gear are at Camps 3 and 4. We have other gear (food, safety equipment, etc.) at different camps throughout the mountain. It really has been a herculean task to get things positioned.
5. Today we are taking showers. We always take showers close to the day of departure.
6. Sara is trying to get a massive amount of history homework done. Sara always tries to get a lot of work done prior to a week long climb. It is like cramming before a test I guess. She is massively reading (and highlighting) a text book on the Byzantine Empire (Sara occasionally reads something to our group about the era at dinner, and we all pretend that we know what she is talking about).
7. Our entire climbing team is charging all their cell phones an Ipods/Itouches. We always make sure we are a fully charged team as we start off. The Sherpa's focus is on charging their cell phones, which work at the higher camps for some reason, (the non-Sherpa's cell phone coverage doesn't work above base camp). Westerners have to use a service called Ncell, but locals are allowed to use a different cell phone provider that has better coverage up high. Its one of the mysteries of Everest in 2011.
8. Sara, Dave and Linden have all picked out food to eat at Camp 4 (at the South Col). While the team only hopes to stay one night at Camp 4 (at 26,000 feet), they are bringing enough food for up to 3 days (just in case). This food consists of a lot of freeze dried dinners (Mountain House Lasagna), candy bars, cup-o-soups, cheese sticks, etc. The group hopes to climb to Camp 4 one day and then leave for the summit in the middle of that same night, but if a storm pops up (or even high winds), they may stay at Camp 4 for longer.
9. I have picked out a "get fired up" movie for Sara to watch tonight: The Fighter. The movie (starring Mark Walhberg) is based upon a true story, and has several messages, one of which is what incredible sacrifice and determination it takes to be a champion.
10. The Calendar. It is May 16th. I know we are getting close for a try at the summit because we are getting close to the Monsoon showing up. And when the monsoons start, the mountain is closed for the season.
11. All of Everest BC is abuzz with groups getting ready for their summit bids, monitoring their teams on the mountain, or just leaving. Several camps are already gone, having accomplished (or not accomplished) whatever they set out to do.
12. The physicians here are incredibly busy. The HRA (The Himalayan Rescue Association) doctors are a group of physicians whose costs are covered by the various climbing groups to treat clients, guides, porters and Sherpas, They do an incredible job. Many patients are treated face to face, but other times the HRA docs are called upon to help treat climbers who are high on the mountain. They are on call 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and are currently working (as I write this) at an incredible pace under tremendous pressure.
13. We are almost out of Coca Colas. When we started this trip Sara and I ordered 24 twelve ounce Coca Colas (for about $40) to have at Base Camp. We have been enjoying them, but self rationing them, since we arrived at base camp on April 6th. We are down to one Coca Cola. I think we are going to split it.
14. Our camp is melting. We live on the Khumbu glacier and our camp is noticeably melting every day. Our tent sites, which were originally flat, are now not, but we are living with it because, hey, the glacier may melt them flat again. Pools of water form in our camp daily and then freeze at night. The base to our Stupa is rapidly melting. We may have to do some construction work in the days ahead.
15. Avalanches are now so common we don't pay much attention to them. When we originally got to Basecamp we would rush out of our tents to see an avalanche coming off one of the many surrounding mountains. Avalanches are now so common (due to the warmer weather) that we no longer rush to view them, or even pay much attention to them, unless they are in the Khumbu Ice fall. Needless to say, the ice fall is an extremely scary place.
So, in summary, this is how I know that our summit bid is getting close: food picking, charging, showers, homework, doctors busy, dwindling Coca Colas, etc..
I am both nervous and excited for Sara. I know how hard she has trained and worked for an attempt at the summit, but I also know how much luck is involved in actually summitting. I know she is very determined and "wants it" very badly, but I also how easily things could change to prevent a summit bid. Three years ago Sara and I tried to summit Mt. Elbrus and bad weather stopped our entire group. Then last year Sara and I went back to Elbrus and had a perfect weather day and made it to the top in about 6 hours of easy walking. Mountain climbing is a fickle business, and it can be
extremely rewarding, and also extremely disappointing. I know that Sara is strong enough to climb this mountain, but one never knows if things will work out.
So, that's it from Base Camp for today.
Bill M.
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May 16, 2011
Comments (19)
Sara, Bill! No matter what ends up happening, you two are top of the world from my perspective. The decisions you are making and have made are awesome. Im so impressed. Love, Anita
Posted by: Anita on
Dave Hahn, do you know BILL? Thanks for writing Bill, and thanks for the clinic mention. Give our docs a hug for me? HOpe Sara, Dave, Lindon and Sherps get up quickly and down safely. xox
Posted by: Dr Lulu on
Linden - If you are like your father (college classmate and fraternity brother), I know you will be on “the top of the world,” even if you don’t get there. But my money is on your success. Hope you will walk where few others have ever gone or had to courage to go. (P.S. I’m the one who dug Lake Stuart in your back yard when you were a kid. My back still aches.) Best wishes, Stuart Jones
Posted by: stuart jones on
Bro - great post. Let Sara have the last Coke for goodness sakes! Have fun!
- Bro
Posted by: Martin on
SARAA!!! reading your dads post gave me goosebumps!!!TALKING TO YOU ON THE PHONE TODAY MADE MY LIFE!!!!! at first i was nervous because i had this idea in my head that you were gonna sound different, not really sure why i thought that, but you didnt. you sounded the exact same, and then i almost started to cry. but i stopped myself. currently, i am working on my sophomore english project paper due in 8 hours, im two pages short(fun fact). also, if you forgot, we’re still in a relationship on facebook and everytime i see it i smile and then i go stalk you!!! oh and girls lax won state!!!!!!! you probably already knew that, but taylor was wearing your ribbon in her hair !!! it was so cuttee!! also, guys soccer won state against GAC. oh last week i got food poisoning, it was kind of exciting because i had never had it before. also, im very very impressed that youre studying history. pretty sure i already mentioned the letters, hope you liked them, hope they inspired you and i hope you liked my pictures :) im really sorry if this comment just is so random and doesnt really make sense but i miss you so much and i have so much to tell you!!!!!!!!! i love you and i think about you everyday!!!! stay strong like i know you are! YOU GOT THIS BABYYY!!! xoxoxoxoxoooxoxooxoooxoxxx - lilly
Posted by: lilly on
Bill, all of us at Westminster are thinking of and praying for you and Sara. Wishing you the best!
Kamille Harless
Posted by: Kamille on
bill—thanks for all the info. it’s both amazing and mind-boggling. if i could i would send you a ton (a ton) of cokes, but i don’t exactly know where you are!!! tell sara that my spirit is with her, my prayers have been sent to heaven to guard her while she climbs the mountain. if anyone can climb this mountain, she can. but if the mountain doesn’t want to be climbed, it will always be there for another bid. i love both of you, and i do understand that you are nervous for her. i am, too, but she is strong, and i truly believe that she has a village of people who are with her every step of the way. we are all waiting for sara’s successful climb, and for both of you to come home and enjoy the summer fun and sun. love you.
Posted by: aunt mary on
SAYYYY!!!!! Yayyyyy you get to shower!! Im so happy for you that will be such a relaxing feeling, although with or without it, judging by the pics you still look amazing! hahahhaa not to mention there’s one where you have like 30 guys watching you throw the horse shoe where i actually laughed out loud picturing all the neighbors coming over for just the casual game as though it were extremely common. And in addition to the amount of ice cream we’re gonna have ready for you…i’ll definitely make sure we have enough coke for you & hey we can make coke floats!! (im lame i know but still get excited!!!!) Proud to know you’re still doing your homework and studying…makes one of us:) Im hoping so badly the winds settle for these next couple days so you can successfully summit (extremely cool just the thought alone) and come home!!!!!!! Literally i can’t describe how much i miss you on an hourly bases and also can’t tell you enough of how proud i am of you!! You’re actually so close and are doing truly AMAZING!! But seriously you could be more of a stud so keep up the good work, miss and loveeee youu TONS!! <3 kmy
p.s. took a yoga class today made me think of you:)
o o o & another p.s. Mr. Mcgahan- saw this guy on a motorcycle with a helmet who looked identical to you & i just pictured you casually revving the engine casually in the backyard & almost running into us! hahahah embarrassingly made me laugh to myself a lot:)
Posted by: katherine on
STAY STRONG SAYY!!! we love you so much you’re almost there, and almost back to us and the warmmmmm :)) you got it chick push on through
Posted by: Ans on
Sara, you are such a determined young lady and an inspiration to all! The Dobbs family is extremely proud of you!
Sending you a big hug!
Xo,
The Dobbs
Posted by: Jenifer Dobbs on
I am so excited for Sara and the team. I love your most recent post, Bill. Sara will LOVE The Fighter. Such a great movie. So sorry about the cokes. The last one is sure to be the best one ever. Praying and thinking of you all. Eliza sends her best to Sara.
Posted by: maribeth jameson on
My 5th graders here in Taos are madly studying for their exams and are excited to hear that Sara is keeping up with her schoolwork (well, actually what they said was: “She still has to do all that work AND climb Everest?!?”). However, they are excited for all of you and are checking in daily, often coming in with the latest news before I do. They are impressed that there is actually a place in the world where you can eat all of the candy bars and cup-of-soups that you want and would be glad to buy Bill and Sara a Coca-Cola if they are ever in Taos. Best wishes!Ms. E & Class
Posted by: Ms. E's Class on
YIPEEEEEE! Keep the faith! i am thinking of you! Much LOVE!!!!!!!!!!!
Posted by: Lynn Crow on
SOOO happy we got to talk to you this morning!! we all meant everything we said and couldn’t be more proud of you!! make the most of your last few weeks and can’t wait to see you when you get back home! YOURE THE BESSTTT STAY STRONG ps. we’re in chem free now thinking about you. “we’re having a may day” good luck and ryan says hi!!!
Posted by: Kathryn Foley on
YOU CAN DO IT SARA! I am so proud of you, no matter how far you get. You have worked so hard and have amazing strength. I am thinking about you all the time. Good luck!
Posted by: Anna Kate H. on
wow great post. I love the details. Sara and you are always in our hearts!
XXOO
the gardners
Posted by: jody gardner on
You’ll know when the time is right! Exciting! Thinking about you lots!
Posted by: Candace on
I too am both nervous and excited for Sara. Keep climbing higher Sara! Thinking of you often.
Lowndes
Posted by: Lowndes Harrison on
Great description of the signs of an approaching summit bid, Bill. I’m also excited and nervous for you, Sara, although I know you are prepared and have the mind-set to go. We are praying for and thinking of you constantly. Much love.
Posted by: Mom / Grandma on