Mt. Everest Expedition: Readying for Final Rotation
The arrival of May has brought a flurry of activity here on Mt. Everest. The number of climbers making their way up the Lhotse Face grew during the last few days of our second rotation as the route was pushed up from Camp 3 to the South Col and Camp 4 was established. The morning broke clear yesterday, suggesting a warm Cinco de Mayo, but by noon a small bank of clouds blew in spitting snow on us. Thankfully the clouds cleared and the sun returned, providing a clear afternoon for the first team of climbers, made up of Sherpas and guides from several teams, that was attempting to climb to the summit. Breaking through the fresh snow on Everest’s upper reaches, left by the brief but frequent afternoon weather systems we saw over the past few weeks, the team of Sherpas and Westerners established the route for this season. At 4 o’clock we listened to the radio crackle with cheers and hollers as they called down from the summit, marking the first climbers to reach the summit of the 2011 season. Although most teams are a week or more away from making their summit bids, we will begin to see more climbers making attempts for the summit over the coming days and weeks.
For us, our third and final rotation begins tomorrow. Over the next few days we aim to climb back into the Western Cwm and up the Lhotse Face to our Camp 3 at 24,000’, pushing to our highest altitudes yet of the trip. This rotation is our final acclimatization round during which we will expose our bodies to even higher altitudes before returning to Base Camp for an extended rest period before our summit bid. This rotation will give us another chance to spend time climbing on the Lhotse Face, getting more efficient on the steep icy slopes and moving along the fixed lines at high altitudes.
We will also break out our oxygen systems for the first time during this rotation. We plan to use the “O’s” on a low flow rate to sleep at Camp 3 before climbing a bit further up the Lhotse Face above Camp 3 the following morning. The benefits of climbing with oxygen above Camp 3 are equally psychological as physical – like most activities, adding new gear and equipment takes added practice and climbing with the mask obscuring our feet, the respiration fogging our eye wear, the bottle weighing down the pack all takes getting used to. The chance to run through these discomforts before summit day is a huge benefit for us. Yesterday we pulled out a bottle of oxygen and went through a trial run, practicing attaching our regulators, adjusting the masks, and walking with the system. Once Sara strapped on her mask and goggles she looked as though she has stepped out of Top Gun, a pilot walking around the tents of Base Camp.
Today marks a month since our expedition first arrived at Base Camp. It is exciting to watch the transition of sentiment on the mountain and around Base Camp in recent days as teams begin to shift from a focus on acclimatization towards preparing for the summit bid itself. Although we still have a few more days of hard work before we can make that transition ourselves, the buildup is contagious. This excitement has been accompanied by a warming of the weather and it has been a warm (at least for around here) several days of rest here at Base Camp. Every morning once the sun crests over Lho La Pass, we pull out our chairs and stare up at the mountain, occasionally watching climbers in the Khumbu Ice fall through the spotting scope. As the morning grows warmer the ice beneath camp begins to melt, little rivulets of water running between the rocks, the surface of the camp gradually but perceptibly shifting as the rocks settle on the melting ice. All of these changes point towards the arrival of the final stretch of climbing for us. Bill has been very supportive in our preparations for the last rotation and Dave, Sara, and I are excited to headed up in a few hours.
RMI Guide Linden Mallory
×
Comments (3)
sara—stay strong and focused. that’s all there is to it. i know you must be bummed, but of all the people to be with you in spirit, it is your dad. of course, you have all the rest of us armchair adventurers too, but we won’t be waiting for you at 17,000 feet. we are at home in front of the computer following your moves. a completely different story, huh?! just stay focused on that mountain. it will be summer when you come home, so it will then be playtime in the summer sun…. love ya, aunt mary.
Posted by: aunt mary on
Bill, ForEX in NY has been alerted to expect activity from Everest now that your games are abount to begin.
Sara, I have everything crossed for your climb.
Aunt Marie
Posted by: Aunt Marie on
OUR BEST WISHES & PRAYERS ARE WITH YOU ALL…....NEVER MET YOU YET; WE ARE JIM NEELY’S COUSINS FROM NY & WE ARE SO EXCITED FOR YOU & DAD SARA, & FOR THE TEAM. WE FOLLOW YOUR TREC TO THE SUMMIT PAT & BILL p.s. you’re a better man (GIRL) than I am “G.D.)
Posted by: PAT & BILL NEELY on