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Mt. McKinley: Hahn & Team Finish the 2011 Denali Season

Yesterday morning at 1 AM there were unfamiliar voices outside our tents at 7,800' on the Kahiltna Glacier. Someone was calling my name and so I poked my head out into the gloom and falling snow. I was a little surprised to see several of the guides from the teams we'd assumed were still up high on the mountain. The guides pointed to their combined teams taking a restbreak a few hundred feet away and in the poor light I could make out about 40 climbers. They were making a break for the airstrip and they wanted to know if I'd join in with my team. I looked down-glacier through the snow and murk to see... not a whole lot actually, but I quickly warmed to the idea of joining what would be a very strong effort in the route-finding and crevasse detection department. The other teams very graciously waited the hour-and-a-half that it took for us to fire our stoves, eat breakfast and break camp. And then, just as we were roping up, the super team got their packs on and other guides began the process of breaking trail and finding a way. This was a very sweet deal for our team as we merely hopped in at the back of the line and followed along, neatly sidestepping any holes that those near the front of the column had discovered the hard way. I'd somehow assumed that they'd woken me because they wanted me to find the way, but that wasn't the case at all and several very capable guides took turns themselves over the next six hours of working through cloud and murk and snow. It was quite a procession as fifty climbers on about 14 different ropes wound their way down the glacier. These numbers represented every climber left on the mountain... It would be a clean sweep to end the season. My own team's spirits were lightened considerably as we learned that none of the other climbers had summited either and that in fact the storms we'd largely avoided by dropping lower on the mountain were indeed big and mean and real on the upper mountain. Most of all though, my climbers were just happy to be climbing again after two long days sitting around waiting for conditions to improve. By the time we reached basecamp... Or more correctly, the place where Basecamp had been (since there was now nothing but an empty and beautiful glacier) the weather was getting better and some blue sky was developing. We built our tents though and tried not to get our hopes up for an immediate flight. The super group of fifty had one mission in common remaining as we all got out with our snowshoes on to stomp down a strip of snow to give planes an easier takeoff. Sure enough, we'd barely begun to nap when engines were heard and a mad scramble began. K2 Aviation had two big red DeHaviland Otters on skis in for us in no time at all and we were whisked off the glacier and back to Talkeetna by 5 PM. That left enough time for a quick gear sort and a long shower for each climber before dinner. Over burgers and salads at the West Rib, we had a blast toasting and laughing at ourselves and each other as we replayed the high and low points of a fine adventure in the mountains. The nightcap was at the Fairview Inn and then finally we were each in real beds again and sleeping in comfort and safety back in civilization. Much thanks to guides Lindsay Mann and Geoff Schellens and Zeb Blais for their hard work and to the entire team for being such good sports. And of course thanks to Denali for keeping it all interesting. RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Leave a Comment For the Team (1)

very nice pic!

Posted by: michelle on 7/20/2011 at 4:34 am


Mt. Rainier: Summit Climb Teams Reach Summit August 8th!

The Four Day Summit Climbs led by RMI Guides Peter Whittaker & Leon Davis reached the summit of Mt. Rainier at 5:00 a.m. Peter reported a beautiful and windless day. The teams began their descent to Camp Muir. They will take a break there before continuing to Paradise this afternoon. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
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Congratulations, Chris! It was nice meeting you at Muir last weekend. Keep climbing!

Posted by: Sherrie Trecker on 8/8/2013 at 1:52 pm


Mt. Rainier: July 18th Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb team led by Mike Walter and Five Day Summit Climb team led by Seth Waterfall made it to the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported clear skies above 6,000’ and light winds from the west. The teams have started their descent and are en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's summit climbers!
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Mike-Thanks again for a great experience and a shout out guides Josh and Anne Gilbert too.  Will never forget it and will strongly recommend RMI to any newbie like myself that’s interested in climbing mountains.

Posted by: Joel Summiter on 7/20/2012 at 10:04 am


Denali Expedition: Smith and Team Move to 14k with the Sun to Keep ‘em Company

Saturday, June 18 - 8:57pm PT

Today was bitter sweet. On one hand, we made our move to 14k camp. On the other,we said goodbye to one team member as she headed down hill having tested positive for COVID. You can't escape COVID, even in the mountains. Our climber is doing well and will be enjoying a margarita, clean clothes, and a flushing toilet soon. 

For the rest of us, it was a big day moving to 14k camp. Gaining 3,000 feet with heavy packs and a sled is no small feat. We started in a cloud and only in our base layer but quickly walked into a breezy snowfall. The snow fell on us walking to our camp for half the day. By the time we got to our cache site, we had lost the snow and gained some heat. The sun's solar intensity was immense the last hour. You could feel your right side burning up. Our sunglasses felt hot. Heat panic was a thing. The team preserved and we rolled into 14k with a feeling of air conditioning as the clouds rolled back in and we lost the solar intensity. Moving in was quick since our tents were already set up and left by Avery's team. Some Ramen for the tummies and hot cocoa bring us to bedtime. 

Everyone's bodies are excited to lay down and relax after our day and it is well deserved. We will see what the weather brings tomorrow for our agenda.

Rest well everyone,

Hannah and Team

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

So excited for you to be at 14!!! We’re sending positive healing thoughts to your teammate with covid :( and strength to the rest of the team for the days ahead! Love you all and grateful for this blog! PS - can we follow CJ’s garmin too??  Haha

Posted by: Ellen Lewis on 6/19/2022 at 8:15 pm

Love keeping up with your journey. Wishing Nathan and Yvonne an incredible experience as newly weds!

Posted by: Reagan and Richard on 6/19/2022 at 1:50 pm


Denali Expedition: Gately & Team Summit!

Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 5:00 PM PT Hey all this is the Denali Expedition with RMI Steve Gately. The team and I are on the summit! 100% of the team made it so everybody's up. Everybody's doing well. We had a wonderful morning- blue skies, warm weather. We picked up a little bit of wind towards the summit. We had to work for it at the end there. We're all here safe and sound. We'll give a shout via email to the blog when we are back safe and sound at [17K] Camp. That's all. RMI Guide Steve Gately


RMI Guide Steve Gately calls in from the Denali summit!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Steve! I’m so proud and happy for you for making the summit! I’ll give you a call when you’re on the bottom so I can tell you about the light indoor rock climbing I’ve been doing. Can’t wait to hear all about it.

Posted by: Robbie Snow on 5/31/2019 at 1:55 pm

Congrats!  Keeping you in prayer.

Posted by: Molly Bealer on 5/31/2019 at 9:06 am


Mt. McKinley: Jones & Team - Patience Delivers the Summit

June 21, 2014 - 2:56 am PT Well, you probably heard our summit phone call from earlier today, so this is just the follow-up to that. We had a heck of a day here in the high altitudes of North America, rising from the tents early this morning to cold temperatures, light winds, and high clouds. We decided that it was going to be a day for an attempt, and once we had basked in the sun for a bit we headed over to the shade of the Autobahn. Two hours later we had passed the difficulties of the pickets and the exposure below, and we stepped out around Denali Pass. The weather was still a bit in and out, but the No Troubles crew was moving well so we kept at it. Up steep rolls, over undulating terrain, and higher and higher we climbed. We passed familiar landmarks as the day went on, like Zebra Rocks, Archdeacon's Tower, the Football Field, and finally crested onto the summit ridge in cold wind and clear blue skies. Late this afternoon, we reached the highest point on this continent, and emotions ran high as we hugged, high-fived, and snapped photos. Jake's team came up onto the top just as we were getting ready to head down, and we were thrilled to share that special moment with them. This team has had a full value experience, especially with all the uncertainty and waiting that we've endured. Now it's time for one last hot drink and then into the bag for a much-deserved rest. Down tomorrow, hopefully the weather holds for a flight soon! Cheers, RMI Guides Tyler, Geoff, Garrett and the No Troubles team

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

Congratulations!!  We were there in ‘96 with RMI in total whiteout.  Enjoy the views!!!

Posted by: Keith on 6/22/2014 at 8:55 am

Jennifer - Congrats on your successful climb. Jacob

Posted by: Jacob on 6/22/2014 at 8:21 am


Mt. Rainier: June 30th Summit!

Our Four Day Summit Climb Teams Led by RMI Guides Mike Haugen and Gabriel Barral reached the top of Mt. Rainier today. The teams reported light winds, and favorable weather. The teams were able to spend some time on the summit and are now en route to Camp Muir. Congratulations to today's teams!
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Congrats Kelly, Brian, (and possibly Jen)! :)


(Btw, the category of this blog should be changed to Mt. Rainier)

Posted by: -shae- on 6/30/2012 at 3:33 pm

Boo-Yah!  Happy Birthday, LB!  Hope everyone on the team made it and the trip back is gravy!  Congrats to everybody!

Posted by: tyre on 6/30/2012 at 2:55 pm


Mt. McKinley: Knoff & Team Say Hello from 14K Camp

This is the June 19th Denali expedition sending love from 14,000 foot camp. We received a foot of fresh snow last night distracting us from our scheduled plan of carrying loads to the top of the fixed lines at 16,200 feet. Because of this unexpected delay we are resting today fending off climbers soliciting food to lighten their loads for the descent. We have decided to pass the phone to let each team member send a personal hey to friends and family. This one goes out to my wife Birgen and son Liam. I have only tried to spoon Uchal twice thinking of you. He elbowed me both times. I miss you as much as ever and can' t wait to get home to you both..... DG here. Miss and love you all. Doing great up here and everything is rock steady. Hugs Oz and see you soon. Can't wait for you to join me. It's Chris. Special thanks to all of you who posted messages and words of encouragement on the blog. It means a lot and gives me some extra fuel for the push up the peak. Nickie - I love you so much and can't wait to see you again after a successful trip. Cheers! This is Michael U. I hope all is well back home and abroad! I miss and love you all so much. O Sorry for leaving you to care for the new K-9. Grace, HB, Samer, Charlotte, Lulu, and the rest of the family - I can't wait to see you when I get home. Greetings from JJ, amazing group of guys, amazing mounting and truly an experience of a lifetime to be here. Priorities change when life is stripped to the essentials. Peace, joy and love of friends and family take in a new and heightened priority. Please know I am very safe and that my love for you is growing with each step. I miss you all and have many big hugs in store for all upon my return, especially the new love of my life. See you at the wedding if not sooner. Love, John Hello fam & friends--Tim here. It's hard to explain what the top of our continent looks like--truly amazing! Thx for all of your posts, luv sharing them in the "posh" (a funky community eating/gathering area). Great guides & climbing team, we're all looking up at the top now. Love & miss you all--literally dreaming of you nightly--altitude makes for some strange dreams BTW. Thx for covering me during cherry harvest & all the other "stuff." See you in a couple of weeks!!!

On The Map

Leave a Comment For the Team (2)

John, Great to hear all of you are doing fine. We are just home from the “small hills of NC”  As we go along in life we do learn more of love, laughter and thankfulness.  Blessings to all of you climbing.  Jackie and Paul

Posted by: Jackie Winchell on 7/1/2012 at 9:39 pm

What no news fro you Nelson?? I know that you are having a trip of a lifetime. Check in next time the phone goes around. The moms in KC (that would be Mrs. G and me) are worried :-) Can’t wait to see you ... and the amazing photos. I would definitely be up for Killi next year. Lots of love, Mom

Posted by: Jennifer Collet on 6/30/2012 at 5:40 am


Vinson Massif: Rest Day at Low Camp

That storm finally eased, now for the next one. Actually, we hope the next one is a long way off. We enjoyed a fine and quiet rest day at Low Camp. Long meals, long naps, lots of drinking water, some books, some music... an altogether great day in the mountains of Antarctica. We had good strong sunshine for much of the day, but as we ate our dinner (at around 9 PM) things began to cloud up again. There isn't any wind forecast to go along with the clouds so our fingers are crossed for a good moving up day tomorrow. Best Regards RMI Guide Dave Hahn

On The Map

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Hey to Mark and Chris.  Way to go!  Thinking of you.  Tomas

Posted by: Tom on 12/24/2012 at 12:57 pm

Merry Christmas!!

Posted by: Vanessa Block on 12/24/2012 at 6:47 am


Kilimanjaro: Team Treks to Barafu Camp Ready for Summit Bid

Hello again everyone,

The team had a good night’s rest last night and today was just a short 3hr hike up to 15’000 ft to our high camp. It started out sunny, but then quickly clouded up thankfully for great hiking temperatures. The Equatorial sun at this elevation is quite intense, a little break was needed.

The team has just wrapped up lunch and discussed in detail the plan for tomorrow’s climb. Everyone knows what we will be wearing, what will be in the pack, as well as the schedule.
Our game plan will be to wake at 11pm and have a quick breakfast at 11:30, then hopefully hit the trail right at midnight. The team has been doing great thus far and I’m expecting us to reach the summit in 7 to 8hrs if things go according to plan.

As per usual on a Casey climb, one lucky trivia winner will get a phone call from the summit. 
So, everyone back home please keep your phones handy and if you receive a call from a strange number please answer. We are 8+hrs ahead of the east coast time zone.

Wish us luck!

RMI Guide Casey Grom and the Summit Bound Crew

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Go Kimberly!! Keep following your hopes and dreams!

(proud dad moment)

Posted by: Kevin Nichols on 1/29/2022 at 2:38 pm

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