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May 5, 2014
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
There are several schools of thought on the best nutrition plan for mountaineers. Serious mountain climbers need to focus on endurance while hobbyists have a bit more room to formulate their nutritional needs based on many factors. It is important that mountaineers plan their nutrition differently depending on whether they are about to start training, are currently training, climbing or recovering. The most important factors to consider are your energy needs and adequate hydration.
It is advised to start on your training diet a few days before actually starting to train. The reason is because carbohydrates are the best source of fuel for training and are stored as glycogen molecules in the muscles. A carbohydrate loaded meal the day of training will not provide the energy stores needed to reach peak performance. Therefore a carbohydrate-rich diet should be started at least a few days before beginning training.
Training nutrition should focus on muscle building. Many people think that protein is all that is needed to build muscles, but carbohydrates are the energy needed to make it happen. Therefore a combination protein and carbohydrate-rich diet is essential for training. Some healthy foods that can bulk up the daily carbohydrate content in your diet include: whole wheat pasta, whole wheat breads and fruits. Make sure to eat vegetables since they are needed for cell repair for a body under stress. Also, to get some extra protein, eat more meat, dairy and beans, if you are not a meat, dairy or bean enthusiast try a whey protein powder shake daily. For strength training you need about 0.7 to 0.9 grams of protein per pound of body weight. And don’t forget fats. Fat is a necessity since it can enhance your performance. Try mega doses of healthy fats like extra virgin olive oil on salads and use coconut oil for frying and sautéing.
Remember that the nutritional needs of athletes in training must be met daily and not just on actual training days in order to ensure sufficient energy storage. On training days some people like to use sugar to enhance endurance. Sugar just prior to training may provide some additional energy but this depends on the athlete. Each athlete would do well to experiment with this strategy to gauge their blood sugar reaction. Sugar can be a quick source of energy immediately before training, but for some people it can cause a real energy drain if it wears off in the middle of the training session.
For climbs, there are plenty of well-balanced pre-packed meals to ensure you get adequate nutrition. Protein is especially important for athletes to optimize the benefits of carbohydrate storage and to repair muscle tissue broken down during mountain climbing. Endurance athletes have a daily protein requirement of 0.6 to 0.7 grams of protein per pound of body weight. It is vital to athletic performance to remember the importance of quality protein. For example protein from fish, chicken, milk and peanut butter will serve you well. And of course for a climb, increase your carbohydrate intake to get adequate energy; try rice, pasta, bread and fruits. Staying well hydrated will provide a little extra energy, so keep drinking. A study shows that drinking tea will not dehydrate a climber but can improve their mood, so try taking some tea on your next climb.
Recovery nutrition is often the most overlooked aspect of mountaineering. When you finish climbing and no longer need the extra energy, it is still not time to let up on eating correctly. Immediately after the climb your body needs to replenish its energy stores and repair muscles. So go back to your pre-training diet for a few days after a climb. Since recovery nutrition keeps you prepared for the next climb, after those first few days keep on with your balanced nutrition plan and stay hydrated to maintain muscle strength.
The love of mountaineering can be enhanced when the body has all the necessary tools to thrive. Finding the right combination for your body may require a little experimentation to find just the right nutritional plan for you. Be sure to incorporate a balance of healthy carbohydrates, proteins and fats. Most of all, don’t forget to stay hydrated.
Read the Q&A with Dietician Sally Hara about
nutrition for mountaineering training...
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the
RMI Blog!
This post was written in collaboration with
Whittaker Mountaineering.
Relevant Studies:
- Kerksick C, Harvey T, Stout J, Campbell B, Wilborn C, Kreider R, Kalman D, Ziegenfuss T, Lopez H, Landis J, Ivy JL, Antonio J. International Society of Sports Nutrition position stand: Nutrient Timing. 2008;5:17.
- Major GC, Doucet E. Energy intake during a typical Himalayan trek. High Altitude Medicine & Biology. 2004;5(3):355-63.
- Montain SJ, Shippee RL, Tharion WJ. Carbohydrate-electrolyte solution effects on physical performance of military tasks. Aviation Space and Environmental Medicine. 1997;68(5):384-91.
- Westerterp KR. Limits to sustainable human metabolic rate. Journal of Experimental Biology. 2001;204(Pt 18):3183-7.
- Zamboni M, Armellini F, Turcato E, Robbi R, Micciolo R, Todesco T, Mandragona R, Angelini G, Bosello O. Effect of altitude on body composition during mountaineering expeditions: interrelationships with changes in dietary habits. Annals of Nutrition and Metabolism. 1996;40(6):315-24.
July 23, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Body awareness is the combination of
balance and
agility that allows you to move comfortably and confidently through difficult and challenging terrain.
Balance in mountaineering allows you to climb through challenging conditions - such as uneven and firm snow, steep slopes, or rocky terrain - while keeping your equilibrium and avoiding using excess energy or concentration to stay centered. Simply put, it's being comfortable on your feet even when you're traveling through uncomfortable terrain.
Agility is being able to move quickly and easily - to be nimble and reactive. Agility is the ability to react to the unexpected when in the mountains, catching your own stumble or slip or that of a fellow rope team member, navigating through loose rocks, or stepping over a crevasse.
The good news is that both balance and agility are motor skills and can be improved over time.
BALANCE: Practice a combination of static (stationary) and dynamic (moving) balance exercises to develop your balance skills.
Static exercises can be as simple as standing on one leg. Try it at the gym between strength routines, at home while doing the dishes, or while waiting for the bus or elevator. Too easy? Close your eyes, rock onto your toes or onto your heel and try and hold it. Once you've mastered that, try standing on one leg on a small rubber balance disk, then balancing on a your knees on a balance ball. If that is going well, have a friend toss you a tennis ball and catch it without falling off the ball. As you improve, remember that you can always find new ways to challenge and improve your balance.
Dynamic exercises incorporate a bit of movement. Try to walk heel-to-toe along a straight marked line, such as crease in the carpet or sidewalk crack. Once you've mastered that, try it again but with your eyes closed. You can incorporate dynamic balance exercises into everyday life by constantly finding little balance challenges throughout the day: walk along the edge of the curb when strolling through town or pause to balance along a fallen tree or rail when out for a run.
AGILITY: Agility exercises help you focus and boost your coordination, speed, and power. Examples of agility exercises include skipping rope, high knee skips, plyometric jumps, or laying a rope ladder flat on the ground to run or hop through (much like hopscotch). Many of the drills practiced in team field sports are examples of agility exercises.
Many avid climbers are also talented at “slacklining”, the feat of walking along a taut piece of webbing strung several inches to feet above the ground (like tightrope walking). This is one of the ultimate challenges of body awareness, requiring a delicate combination of balance, agility, core strength, and composure. Yoga is another great activity to incorporate into your training to develop balance and agility in addition to flexibility, core strength, and focus.
You can begin improving your body awareness at any point in your
training process. No matter if your climb is days or months away, every little improvement helps. There is no finish line with these skills. You can always find ways to challenge and increase your balance and agility, regardless of your fitness level or age. The rewards of good body awareness in mountaineering are subtle yet profound: you are more at ease in challenging terrain or difficult climbing conditions, have confidence in your movements in intimidating situations, move more efficiently, and maintain your energy and focus throughout the day.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the
RMI Blog!
March 4, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Fit to Climb: Week 5 Schedule
|
DAY |
WORKOUT |
TOTAL TIME |
DIFFICULTY |
|
1 |
Rainier Dozen / Easy Hiking ( 30 min) |
42 min. |
Medium |
|
2 |
Rainier Dozen / Stair Interval Training (50 min) |
62 min. |
Hard |
|
3 |
Rainier Dozen / Rest |
12 min. |
Recovery |
|
4 |
Rainier Dozen / Strength Circuit Training x 3 |
46 min. |
Hard |
|
5 |
Rainier Dozen / Rest |
12 min. |
Recovery |
|
6 |
Rainier Dozen / Cross Training (1 hr) |
72 min. |
Hard |
|
7 |
Rainier Dozen / Hike (3 hrs) |
192 min. |
Medium |
|
Total |
6 hrs 18 mins |
|
BRIEFING
This week's training plan looks very similar to last week’s. The day of your fitness test reverts back to your choice of cross-training. On day 7, the length of the hike increase by about an hour or lengthened about two miles. The primary training goal this week is to begin to extend your aerobic endurance, which you’ll achieve by the increase in length of the hike.
Adding an hour may seem like a small increment; but you are going from a medium length hike to a longer one requiring a fairly substantial effort.
There are several subtle but important things to consider as you increase the length of your hike. One of the biggest ones is energy consumption. Many people can do a two hour hike without any special preparation, and you'll probably have enough energy to complete it just fine. However, to be successful maintaining energy throughout a three hour hike, you'll want to be diligent in preparing, specifically with nutrition, to make sure you have enough fuel in your body for the entire hike. Be sure to pack enough snacks to keep you fueled for the entire time!
You'll also want to consider what you carry in your day pack. On a two hour hike, you may never be more than an hour from the parking lot. As you go further out, this creates additional consideration for self-responsibility and risk management. You'll want to make sure you have the
ten essentials in your pack and also have an emergency plan in case a mishap should occur. This includes letting people know where you're going, and/or also hiking with other people.
SUMMARY
Week five can be a positive breakthrough, the week where many people feel a demonstrable increase in their fitness. Often-times, the thing which people notice is an increased aerobic capacity; you simply can do more without getting out of breath. Some people also report feeling stronger. All of this makes sense. If you've done all the workouts, you'll have logged 25 solid days of training. This amounts to 25 improvement cycles! As long as you're practicing good self care, you can't help but feel stronger.
It's important to acknowledge the progress and perhaps celebrate in some way. You should feel confident about what you're doing; you've made significant gains and the foundation you're building at this point will result in greater gains still as the next few weeks unfold!
- John Colver
Have a question? See the
Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program.
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his
adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book,
Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
April 11, 2014
Posted by: Ben Liken, Paul Maier
Categories: Guide News
RMI is hosting several Prep for Rainier classes over the months of February, March, and April at local REI stores in the Puget Sound area. Join
RMI's experienced guides to discuss everything that is needed to prepare for
Mt. Rainier, including conditioning, trip planning, route selection, and equipment selection to climb Washington State's highest point!
Come out to your local REI store to hear stories and answer your questions about Mt. Rainier!
October 8, 2012
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
To begin a conditioning plan for mountaineering, first establish the baseline of your current fitness level. This baseline allows you to compare your current strengths to what you’ll need on the climb. With this, we can compose a training plan that builds steady improvement between now and the day you set off for the mountains.
To illuminate the task ahead, and to build a plan, consider these questions:
• What are the physical requirements of the climb (ie. pack weight, number of days, hours spent each day)?
• How much time do I have before I climb?
• What are my fitness strengths?
• How much weight can I carry and for how long?
To determine the physical requirements of the climb, look to RMI’s office and
website. RMI provides details on the equipment we will be carrying, the itinerary, and the duration of the climb.
How much time is there before the climb? Take out a calendar or a blank sheet of paper and consider how to fit in the three phases of training:
1. Beginning (adaptation)
2. Building
3. Peaking (the final preparation before the climb)
Assessing your fitness strengths with a visit to a qualified athletic trainer will help to quantify your current level of fitness. Or, visit a park and hike your favorite loop or trail with a weighted backpack to gain realistic insight into your capabilities. What I like about assessing the time and weight is that it is simple and you can do it today.
As we move ahead, I encourage you to think about whether you prefer to approach your training scientifically or intuitively. Do you prefer hiring a coach, or do you like to be your own coach? Both methods are successful - sometimes a combination is a nice way to go about it. Throughout training, I encourage you to be consistently aware of two important factors: How long can I go? How much can I carry? On the mountain, these two things really matter.
As an exercise for this week, set aside time to visit a park, sports stadium, or a local hiking area. See how it feels. The purpose of this session is not to push to a maximum effort but to simply experience how it feels to carry a pack up and down inclines.
My encouragement is to not do too much. The "safety first" rule applies to training as well as the mountains. Too much too soon can have a negative effect, or even risk an injury. If this is new to you... don’t feel overwhelmed if today you feel that you have a long way to go.
Two years ago in October, I trained with my friend Kim Porto. She had her sights set on climbing
Mt. Rainier and trekking to
Everest Base Camp during the following eighteen months. She had never hiked before. On day one, we walked stairs for twenty minutes with our running shoes and no pack. It was enough. From there, we mapped out a plan that steadily increased the training with hiking, stair work, and strength training. By steady training over the months ahead, Kim accomplished both her Rainier climb and her trek to Everest Base Camp.
Remember that moderation and consistency are the keys to success in building endurance!
- John Colver
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his
adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the
RMI Blog!
Between training and the climb itself, climbers spend a lot of time with a pack on their backs. Somewhat of a necessary evil, the goal is to make your pack carry comfortably and efficiently so that it doesn’t work against you. A few tips that will result in a more enjoyable pack to carry:
1. Minimize dead space in the pack
2. Try to fit everything (except the ice axe) inside the pack
3. Keep the mass of the pack close to your body
4. Frequently adjust the straps to carry the load more comfortably
5. Have a system
Minimizing dead space in the pack will help the pack ride in a more balanced way, and allow you to fit everything inside. A big factor that creates dead space is too many stuff sacks packed together. Round or barrel shaped stuff sacks don’t nest together well, instead leaving large gaps between them (like a cup full of marbles). To minimize this effect, try to limit the number of stuff sacks you use. A compression stuff sack for your sleeping bag is important, as it dramatically reduces the volume of the sleeping bag, but most of the other items can be packed loose, without stuff sacks. The down parka and spare insulating layers do a great job of packing around the sleeping bag to fill any spaces. Some guides go so far as to pack their pack partway, and then (taking care not to crush anything breakable) insert their foot into the pack and squish everything down to squeeze out all of the air. In addition, if climbers have packs with dedicated sleeping bag compartments, I often recommend that they detach the shelf that separates the compartment from the main pack, and treat the pack as one large tube. Sleeping bag compartments tend to create dead space where we want it least, right near the center of mass of our bodies.
Minimize the number of items that are attached to the outside of the pack. The ice axe generally has a dedicated attachment point (the ice axe loops), and is really the only exception to this rule. The rest of our equipment should fit inside the pack. With a little bit of thought, items that seem to take up a lot of space can be packed more efficiently. For example, by stuffing the helmet with extra socks and food before packing it, the volume of the helmet itself becomes very little. Crampons can be put together so that the tines cover each other, and they too can be placed in the pack. Items clipped to the outside of the pack tend to swing, get damaged, and make a ruckus. By minimizing the number of items clipped to the outside of the pack, your pack will carry more comfortably and with less noise!
In general when you are packing, place items that you won’t need or use that stretch to the bottom of the pack, while items that you would like to keep handy (food, sunscreen, etc) stay near the top. Additionally, place heavier items closer to the back panel of the pack, keeping them nearer your center of mass.
There is no perfect fit for a pack, and comfort and fit of your pack will change throughout the course of a climb or training session. In general, try to carry the majority of the weight on your hips. When putting on a pack, hitch the pack up higher on your back than it will ride, and cinch down the waist strap. Then tighten the shoulder straps until they just make contact with your shoulders. Next, lightly tighten the load lifter straps on the shoulder straps and waist belt. This helps to pull the weight of the pack in closer to your back and helps with balance. Lastly, constantly adjust throughout the day as discomforts arise!
Have a system to your pack so that you have a good idea where each item is. This will save you time and frustration throughout the climb, if you can reach straight to a warmer pair of gloves for example, rather than unpack most of your pack each time you need an item. With a well-organized system, you will spend more time at each break resting and recovering, and less time digging for items in your pack. With a little bit of time and practice your pack won’t be such a burden and your training sessions, and ultimately the climb, will be more enjoyable!
________
Pete Van Deventer is a senior guide at RMI Expeditions. A former collegiate nordic skier, Pete climbs and guides around the world, from the Andes to Alaska. Read about Pete's recent sailing and ski mountaineering trip to Norway's Lofoten Islands on the RMI Blog.
Questions? Comments? Share your thoughts here on the RMI Blog!
September 21, 2011
Posted by:
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The Expedition Skills Seminar - Muir led by RMI Guides Brent Okita, Billy Nugent and Linden Mallory reached the summit of Mt. Rainier today. The team was walking into the crater rim at 8:20 a.m. Winds are 20 mph and there is a cloud cap on the mountain this morning. The teams will return to Camp Muir and continue their training of expedition skills. They will descend from Camp Muir to Paradise on Friday and conclude the program at Rainier BaseCamp.
Congratulations to today's climbing teams! Enjoy the rest of your time on the mountain.
February 19, 2022
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Ecuador
Elevation: 16,564'
It was another breathless, warm morning on the Ecuadorian countryside. Our beautiful hacienda was situated perfectly in a giant valley which runs directly from our dining room window unabated for 7000’ vertical feet straight to the summit.
Chimborazo, the farthest point from the center of the earth and closest to the sun, was mostly displaying her majesty as we sipped coffee and ate our eggs. As the morning wore on, she hid herself from view and we loaded the magic bus ready to take us to the Chimborazo trailhead. By 1:30 all our packs were packed, and it was off to high camp at 17,500 feet.
At this altitude nothing feels perfect, unzipping your trousers just to take a pee can leave you winded. But our seemingly invincible team has again handled things with grace under pressure and is doing well up here. Once again, the Ecuadorians have done it right, providing a giant dome tent for our lounging pleasure.
But don’t get too comfy bloglandia, the alarm is set for a mere four hour from not. It is then we will have our final test?
The is rest well with a positive psych ! Wish us well!
RMI Guides Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith and Team
April 22, 2013
Posted by:
Categories: Mountaineering Fitness & Training
Fit to Climb: Week 12 Schedule
|
DAY |
WORKOUT |
TOTAL TIME |
DIFFICULTY |
|
1 |
Rainier Dozen / Easy Hiking ( 30 min) |
42 min. |
Medium |
|
2 |
1-2-3 Stair Workout x 5 |
90 min. |
Very Hard |
|
3 |
Rainier Dozen / Rest |
12 min. |
Recovery |
|
4 |
Rainier Dozen / Fartlek Training Hike (2 hrs) |
120 min. |
Very Hard |
|
5 |
Rainier Dozen / Rest |
12 min. |
Recovery |
|
6 |
Rainier Dozen / Hike (3 hrs) |
192 min. |
Medium |
|
7 |
Rainier Dozen / Hike (7 hrs, 15 pounds of pack weight) |
432 min. |
Medium |
|
Total |
15 hrs. |
|
BRIEFING
At this point in the 16 week training program, you are all in and the end is not far off! This week adds a second hike to your weekend, the Day 2 stair session becomes a little more challenging, and you’ll be adding a new kind of workout in for a bit of variety: a fartlek hike on Day 4.
DESCRIPTIONS OF WORKOUTS
Day 1:
Rainier Dozen + Easy Hiking (30 Minutes)
Today’s hike is a recovery workout and you can always substitute it with a different activity, such as running, biking or swimming. The important thing is to move at a moderate pace for 30 to 45 minutes. The pace can be conversational and you do not need to be dripping with sweat at the end of the workout.
Day 2:
Stair Interval Training: The 1-2-3 Workout
Warm up with some moderate paced stair climbing. Then, make three efforts: one moderately hard, one very hard, and one close to maximal effort, with rest periods in between. This may look like:
• 2 minutes at 50-65% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest (1 minute standing, 2 minutes descending)
• 2 minutes at 65-80% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest
• 2 minutes at 85-90% intensity, followed by 3 minutes of rest
Repeat this sequence five times.
Day 3: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 4: Rainier Dozen / Fartlek Training Hike (2 hrs)
‘Fartlek’ training is another version of interval training. The word originated in Sweden and means ‘Speed Play’. Fartlek training is popular with cyclists, runners and cross-country skiers. During your workout, you simply chose random ‘targets‘ like the top of a hill, a loop of a track, a tree or trail marker and then get after it with gusto! Increase your effort level as much as you feel like and mix up the length of the intervals for variety. I like this type of training because it replicates the unpredictable nature of mountain terrain: you can never be certain of the terrain or length of challenging portions of the climb. It’s fun too; it helps to pass the time while training alone, or adds a competitive challenge with friends. If you lack stairs, you can use any uphill grade and no matter the terrain, you can always increase intensity by adding weight to your pack.
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen, and then hike for two hours. Depending on how you are feeling, pick a spot on the trail that feels an appropriate distance away, and sprint to it. Alternate these high speed sections with walking at your regular pace. If you are doing the workout with friends, you can take turns picking the target.
Day 5: Rainier Dozen / Rest
Begin your day with the Rainier Dozen. Feel free to take another 30 to 60 minutes of light exercise if you feel like it (a brisk walk is a great option). If you feel tired, today is a good opportunity be good to take a complete rest day instead. Listen to your body.
Day 6: Rainier Dozen / 3 Hour Hike
The back-to-back hikes this weekend mimic the actual Mount Rainier climb where you complete two days of climbing in a row. The conditioning benefit is to get used to doing these long practice sessions close together. By this point, you’re getting so used to hiking so that this won’t seem like a significant challenge as it would be before the program.
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen and then hike for 3 hours. You may choose to include some pack weight if you’re looking for a little extra challenge.
Day 7: 7 Hour Hike (15 pounds of weight)
Warm up with the Rainier Dozen, and then hike for 7 hours, or about 12 - 14 miles. Be sure to hike at an even pace and bring all of the clothing, food, and equipment you need to be on the trail all day.
SUMMARY
This week is capped off with your first back-to-back hike. You may be tired when you start the second hike, or even have some muscle fatigue, but try and persevere. There are great benefits to be gained from introducing your body to the stress of multiple days of extended effort as it prepares you for the same challenges of climbing. We are headed into the final push of preparation over the coming weeks with several of these back-to-back days. When the climb comes you’ll know what to expect and how to take care of yourself over several days of climbing!
- John Colver
Have a question? See the
Fit To Climb FAQ for explanations of specific exercises and general pointers to help you through the Fit To Climb Program.
John Colver is a longtime climber, former mountain guide, and certified personal trainer with the American Council of Exercise. Colver introduced outdoor fitness classes to athletic clubs throughout the greater Puget Sound region before creating his
adventX brand. Currently, adventX leads training programs in Seattle and Colver presents clinics on outdoor fitness at companies such as Microsoft, Boeing, the American Lung Association, and REI. Colver lives in Seattle, and is working on his second book,
Fit to Climb - a 16 week Mount Rainier Fitness Program.
From RMI Guide Hannah Smith: The Mt. Rainier summit is not guaranteed but the rising sun is. Gusty winds made for a high point at Ingraham Flats- short of the summit but still challenging. Our team is packing up and heading downhill shortly.
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Very useful information, thanks for sharing.
Posted by: Vivek on 11/2/2020 at 1:32 am
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