Most Popular Entries
Posted by: Dustin Wittmier, Dominic Cifelli, JT Schmitt
Categories: Expedition Dispatches
Hey,
This year, the monsoon has not been kind to the climbers on Manaslu. Snow, rain, and more snow have prevented most climbers from going higher than Camp 3 (22,000’). Fortunately, we were able to fit our second rotation in between two storm fronts and have some beneficial days on the mountain. Though our plan for rotation 2 was to cache gear at Camp 4 (24,000’) in preparation for our summit push, we were happy and fortunate to reach Camp 3 in good weather.
Two long nights were spent sleeping at 21,000’. We saw every hour come, and every hour go. Getting a good night's rest becomes more difficult as you go up the mountain, but it’s all part of the process. We have to let our bodies adjust to the new altitudes we’re asking it to rest at, which often involves climbing higher than we sleep at night. Climbing without supplemental oxygen takes more time and patience than climbing with. The body is highly stressed; it needs more time to acclimate and more time to recover. We’re trusting the process and our bodies as we prepare for the summit push.
We’re back down at basecamp resting, playing cards, Backgammon and seeing how much caffeine the human body can handle. We’re hopeful for a weather window opening up towards the end of September/early October. The summit awaits. Wish us luck!
RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli, Dustin Wittmier, and JT Schmitt
Posted by: Casey Grom, Abby Westling, JT Schmitt, Lily Emerson, Jenna Burkey, Cal Seeley
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 10,080'
Continuous rain overnight at Camp Muir, kept the Five Day climb July 2 - 6 teams from making their summit attempt. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a slight break in the weather but the rain was continuing. They plan to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am for a hopefully dry walk down to Paradise. The teams should return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.
Thank you Abby, Casey and all the guides for your leadership and hard work to help us all develop our mountaineering skills.
Posted by: Jeff Wrobel on 7/7/2022 at 7:24 am
Posted by: Win Whittaker, JM Gorum
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Mount Rainier
Elevation: 14,410'
The American Lung Association's Climb for Clean Air team reached the summit of Mt. Rainer, the team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JM Gorum. Today they climbed with a light breeze and cool temperatures.
Climb For Clean Air has been available to people of all levels who are ready to take on the challenge of summiting a mountain since 1987. Funds raised by participants will support the American Lung Association of the Mountain Pacific's mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease.
Congratulations Team!
On The Map
Posted by: Jack Delaney, Roland Scott
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 10,781'
Tuesday, September 5, 2022 8:10 am PDT
SUMMIT!
RMI Guide Jack Delaney called in at 8:10 am PDT from the summit of Mt. Baker. The team climbed via the Easton Glacier route. The early morning temperatures were cool, but great for climbing! The team is on the descent and will be back at their high camp at about 6,800' where they will spend the night, and plan to descend early tomorrow.
Congratulations Team!
Monday, September 5, 2022 5:06 pm PDT
Greetings from the team with the two tallest guides at RMI!
We hiked into Sandy Camp on the flanks of Mt. Baker yesterday. The hike in was slightly overcast but great temperatures for hiking with a heavy pack. Once we got to camp we quickly set up tents as the overcast clouds had become dark and threatening. Lucky for us the rain started as soon as we moved into our tents. The rest of the night was spent hunkered down inside our nice dry tents except for a brief lull in the rain that we took advantage of to boil water for dinner. This morning we awoke to dry weather with partly sunny sky's. Today we'll practice all the mountaineering skills necessary for our ascent of Baker starting in the wee hours of the night this evening!
RMI Guides Jack, Roland & Team
Posted by: Adam Knoff, Hannah Smith
Categories:
Saturday, April 2, 2022 - 6:47 am PT
Good evening all from High Camp on Lobuche.
Today we left the town of Lobuche (I know its confusing) to make our way to our camp on Lobuche. The team hiked in in great style to 17,400'. Once at camp we made sure our gear was ready for tomorrows climb. By noon our bellies were full from a very large and delicious lunch. With bellies so full it was time for an afternoon nap. The views from camp are amazing! We could not ask for a better place to spend the evening. Tomorrow is the big day we have been looking forward to. An early wake up has us in bed early, winding down and resting up for the big day. Wish us luck and good thoughts!
RMI Guides Adam, Hannah Smith, and team
Al the Best Hannah & Adam and Team!!!
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/2/2022 at 11:16 am
Blessings and great skill to summit.
Posted by: Jane on 4/2/2022 at 8:34 am
Posted by: Adam Knoff
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Everest BC Trek and Lobuche
Elevation: 11,300'
Today was pleasantly uneventful here in the Khumbu. We are starting to fall into a nice routine up here aided by the familiarity of the food, the daily packing list and what to expect weather wise. I am very impressed with everyone adjusting so quickly and favorably to the Sherpa menu items often eating porridge for breakfast, noodles and momos for lunch and some kind of sherpa stew or rice dish for dinner. We are all leaving the fried food and pizza items alone which I think secretly impresses our local guides.
After that fine bowl of porridge this morning the RMI team, led by Dawn and Denza Sherpa packed our not so heavy day bags and made a lovely two hour trek into the Thame valley to visit an all women’s nunnery which I believe is the only one of its kind in the entire area. We sat in on a stunning prayer ceremony while sitting mesmerized by the cadence and tone of the prayers, all read from a scripture. All of us with technology raised fine western children all asked each other how long we thought our kids would last sitting cross legged on the floor praying through a rhythmic chant while reading a bible. I think the average answer was around 30 seconds. The Buddhist nuns and monks will pray for three to six hours a day for 30 years. What a crazy different world we all exist in!
Once we finished with the monastery we had some tea then retraced our steps back to Namche for lunch and more shopping. I can’t get over how much the village has changed! So many new structures and lodges. I hardly recognized it walking through the gates yesterday at the bottom of the hill.
By 5 pm were practicing some knots and technical skills on the extreme angles of the lodge’s front steps. After everyone displayed ample confidence in arm wraps and figure Eights, dinner was on the table so we wrapped up our day sitting by the fire eating exactly what makes us happy.
Now in bed we are prepped and ready for a nice long hike to Phortse which holds a special place in my heart.
Find out why tomorrow.
Namaste from Hotel Camp De Base, Namche Bazaar.
Wish I could be there with you! It all sounds and looks wonderful.
Posted by: Catherine on 3/25/2022 at 4:02 pm
Glad your team is doing well and continue the great updates on your trip and comparisons to trips past. Thx and Best
Posted by: Jane on 3/25/2022 at 9:54 am
Posted by: Seth Waterfall
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Kilimanjaro
Posted by: Matias Francis, Sam Marjerison
Categories: Expedition Dispatches North Cascades
Elevation: 9,131'
The Fisher Chimneys climb led by RMI Guides Matias Francis and Sam Marjerison had beautiful summit weather yesterday. They reported great route conditions and enjoyed the SE Ridge to the top. The team spent last night on the mountain and will be descending this morning. They expect to be back at the cars in the early afternoon. They will conclude their program with a celebratory meal and wrap up!
The team led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Matias Francis reached the summit of Mt. Triumph today! The team climbed Triumph's northeast ridge to the summit where they enjoyed views deep into the North Cascades, including Mt. Baker. The team is making the most of their time in the North Cascades and plan to climb Thornton Peak tomorrow before their program concludes later this week.
Hey Dustin! I am sending big pressure breaths and thoughts of a good nights sleep!!!
All the BEST to you guys!
Farmer Dave
Posted by: Dave Kestel on 9/30/2022 at 9:41 am
I hope the team is OK and safe at Base Camp and no one was caught in the avalanche.
Posted by: Mitch Green on 9/26/2022 at 7:34 am
View All Comments