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Mt. Rainier: Rain Keeps Five Day Climbs at Camp Muir

Continuous rain overnight at Camp Muir, kept the Five Day climb July 2 - 6 teams from making their summit attempt. RMI Guide Casey Grom reported a slight break in the weather but the rain was continuing.  They plan to leave Camp Muir around 9:30 am for a hopefully dry walk down to Paradise.  The teams should return to Rainier BaseCamp in the early afternoon.

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Thank you Abby, Casey and all the guides for your leadership and hard work to help us all develop our mountaineering skills.

Posted by: Jeff Wrobel on 7/7/2022 at 7:24 am


RMI Guides Update from Manaslu

Hey,

This year, the monsoon has not been kind to the climbers on Manaslu. Snow, rain, and more snow have prevented most climbers from going higher than Camp 3 (22,000’). Fortunately, we were able to fit our second rotation in between two storm fronts and have some beneficial days on the mountain. Though our plan for rotation 2 was to cache gear at Camp 4 (24,000’) in preparation for our summit push, we were happy and fortunate to reach Camp 3 in good weather. 

Two long nights were spent sleeping at 21,000’. We saw every hour come, and every hour go. Getting a good night's rest becomes more difficult as you go up the mountain, but it’s all part of the process. We have to let our bodies adjust to the new altitudes we’re asking it to rest at, which often involves climbing higher than we sleep at night. Climbing without supplemental oxygen takes more time and patience than climbing with. The body is highly stressed; it needs more time to acclimate and more time to recover. We’re trusting the process and our bodies as we prepare for the summit push. 

We’re back down at basecamp resting, playing cards, Backgammon and seeing how much caffeine the human body can handle. We’re hopeful for a weather window opening up towards the end of September/early October. The summit awaits. Wish us luck!

RMI Guides Dominic Cifelli,  Dustin Wittmier, and JT Schmitt

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Hey Dustin! I am sending big pressure breaths and thoughts of a good nights sleep!!!
All the BEST to you guys!
Farmer Dave

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 9/30/2022 at 9:41 am

I hope the team is OK and safe at Base Camp and no one was caught in the avalanche.

Posted by: Mitch Green on 9/26/2022 at 7:34 am


Kilimanjaro: Last Day on Safari

This is Seth and the safari crew checking in from the Kikoti Camp at Tarangire National Park. This was our last full day of safari and it was a good one. We managed to see several big cats again including a leopard. That was the last one we needed to complete our finding of the 'Big Five'. The Big Five includes: lions, elephants, water buffalo, leopard and the rhino. The game viewing has been outstanding for us. Tomorrow we are heading back to town as several folks have an afternoon flight from Arusha heading home. Our trip has been awesome and we will enjoy this last day before we board planes tomorrow and head back to our friends and family. RMI Guide Seth Waterfall
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Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff, Smith & Team Arrive at Lobuche High Camp

Saturday, April 2, 2022 - 6:47 am PT

Good evening all from High Camp on Lobuche.

Today we left the town of Lobuche (I know its confusing) to make our way to our camp on Lobuche. The team hiked in  in great style to 17,400'. Once at camp we made sure our gear was ready for tomorrows climb. By noon our bellies were full from a very large and delicious lunch. With bellies so full it was time for an afternoon nap. The views from camp are amazing! We could not ask for a better place to spend the evening. Tomorrow is the big day we have been looking forward to. An early wake up has us in bed early, winding down and resting up for the big day. Wish us luck and good thoughts!

RMI Guides Adam, Hannah Smith, and team

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Al the Best Hannah & Adam and Team!!!

Posted by: Dave Kestel on 4/2/2022 at 11:16 am

Blessings and great skill to summit.

Posted by: Jane on 4/2/2022 at 8:34 am


Everest Base Camp Trek & Lobuche: Knoff & Team Enjoy Namche Bazaar, Visit Women’s Nunnery

Today was pleasantly uneventful here in the Khumbu.   We are starting to fall into a nice routine up here aided by the familiarity of the food, the daily packing list and what to expect weather wise.  I am very impressed with everyone adjusting so quickly and favorably to the Sherpa menu items often eating porridge for breakfast, noodles and momos for lunch and some kind of sherpa stew or rice dish for dinner.  We are all leaving the fried food and pizza items alone which I think secretly impresses our local guides.  

After that fine bowl of porridge this morning the RMI team, led by Dawn and Denza Sherpa packed our not so heavy day bags and made a lovely two hour trek into the Thame valley to visit an all women’s nunnery which I believe is the only one of its kind in the entire area.  We sat in on a stunning prayer ceremony while sitting mesmerized by the cadence and tone of the prayers, all read from a scripture.  All of us with technology raised fine western children all asked each other how long we thought our kids would last sitting cross legged on the floor praying through a rhythmic chant while reading a bible.   I think the average answer was around 30 seconds.   The Buddhist nuns and monks will pray for three to six hours a day for 30 years.   What a crazy different world we all exist in! 

Once we finished with the monastery we had some tea then retraced our steps back to Namche for lunch and more shopping.  I can’t get over how much the village has changed!  So many new structures and lodges.  I hardly recognized it walking through the gates yesterday at the bottom of the hill.  

By 5 pm were practicing some knots and technical skills on the extreme angles of the lodge’s front steps.  After everyone displayed ample confidence in arm wraps and figure Eights, dinner was on the table so we wrapped up our day sitting by the fire eating exactly what makes us happy.  

Now in bed we are prepped and ready for a nice long hike to Phortse which holds a special place in my heart.  

Find out why tomorrow.  

Namaste from Hotel Camp De Base, Namche Bazaar.   

RMI Guide Adam Knoff

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Wish I could be there with you!  It all sounds and looks wonderful.

Posted by: Catherine on 3/25/2022 at 4:02 pm

Glad your team is doing well and continue the great updates on your trip and comparisons to trips past. Thx and Best

Posted by: Jane on 3/25/2022 at 9:54 am


Mt. Rainier: ALA Climb For Clean Air on Top!

The American Lung Association's Climb for Clean Air team reached the summit of Mt. Rainer, the team was led by RMI Guides Win Whittaker and JM Gorum. Today they climbed with a light breeze and cool temperatures. 

Climb For Clean Air has been available to people of all levels who are ready to take on the challenge of summiting a mountain since 1987. Funds raised by participants will support the American Lung Association of the Mountain Pacific's mission of saving lives by improving lung health and preventing lung disease.

Congratulations Team! 

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Mt. Baker: Easton Glacier Team Summits

Tuesday, September 5, 2022 8:10 am PDT

SUMMIT! 

RMI Guide Jack Delaney called in at 8:10 am PDT from the summit of Mt. Baker. The team climbed via the Easton Glacier route. The early morning temperatures were cool, but great for climbing! The team is on the descent and will be back at their high camp at about 6,800' where they will spend the night, and plan to descend early tomorrow.

Congratulations Team! 

Monday, September 5, 2022 5:06  pm PDT 

Greetings from the team with the two tallest guides at RMI! 

We hiked into Sandy Camp on the flanks of Mt. Baker yesterday. The hike in was slightly overcast but great temperatures for hiking with a heavy pack. Once we got to camp we quickly set up tents as the overcast clouds had become dark and threatening. Lucky for us the rain started as soon as we moved into our tents. The rest of the night was spent hunkered down inside our nice dry tents except for a brief lull in the rain that we took advantage of to boil water for dinner. This morning we awoke to dry weather with partly sunny sky's. Today we'll practice all the mountaineering skills necessary for our ascent of Baker starting in the wee hours of the night this evening!

RMI Guides Jack, Roland & Team

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June Training Tips

It's June already. Do you have a Mount Rainier climb planned this summer? If so, you are probably at the peak of your training efforts and devoting a good amount of energy and time to preparing your body for the big climb. Many people ask, "What's the most important thing for training right now?" If you are less than a week away from your climb, you'll want to rest. By all means, do some activity — but just enough to keep you moving — not so much that you arrive fatigued. You'll want to maximize your sleep and relaxation this week. Also, be sure that you're eating plenty of carbohydrates to ensure you start the climb with a full tank. If your climb is still a few weeks or even months away, then you have a great opportunity to add to your endurance. I like to keep things simple. My recommendation to people training for mountaineering is to include at least one long hike each week. How long? Well, your summit day will start in the middle of the night and you may well be climbing and descending for upwards of 14 hours. So, it's important to condition yourself to be on your feet for that long. Practically, if you live near Mt. Rainier you can train on any number of long steep hikes in the area, or even hike up to Camp Muir for practice. One big weekly hike is my minimum, but if you can you'll benefit from back-to-back days of hiking, or maybe even sneak in a midweek hike as well. A man I know was out of shape with only two months to go before his Mt. Rainier climb. He realized he was behind on his training, took vacation time, and hiked Mt. Si, near Seattle, eighteen times in one month! I thought it was a bit extreme and advised him to pay attention to his knees and joints, but he did it — and he made it all the way to the summit and back. If you live in a flat city you can still get in good training. I've done urban hikes before to get in condition for a climb. Once, when I was getting ready for a big climb while I lived in London, UK, I would put a metal weight and some water-bottles in a pack and walk all day, stopping at restaurants to eat and visiting the occasional museum. It's fun and a great way to see a city. This winter in Seattle I set a goal of walking three miles each day. It's great for the feet, legs, and back and it's easy to plan to walk places instead of driving. Arrive at work or a friend's house and tell them you walked — you'll inspire them too! It might be tough to get elevation in flatter regions, but don't let that stop you from building endurance. If you can't hike or walk anywhere then bicycling is about as close as you can get to hiking as an alternative. It works the same energy-systems and many of the same muscle groups. If you do a lot of cycling, also do jumping exercises, perhaps even get a jump-rope and use it for a few minutes every day. That will help with the coming-down part of the climb. Cycling builds strength and endurance but doesn't replicate the impact of stepping down. The combination of both is very effective. Top three tips for June: 1. Make the main thing - the main thing: It's a long endurance climb with a 35lb pack. Go long in training and wear a pack when possible. 2. Back up your long hikes with shorter sessions: 60 - 90 minute efforts at a higher intensity. Stairs, stair-master, elliptical machine, cycling or spin class are good options. 3. Mix up your training: Some long and steady 'conversational' pace sessions; some hard and steady; some intervals of 1 minute of very hard effort followed by 1 minute of rest. A parting thought: I used to get close to a climb and worry that I hadn't done enough of this or of that. Right now you've done what you've done. Its best to take out a calendar, figure out how many long hikes you can fit in, block out those time and then use the other days for shorter sessions. Take a day or two of rest as well, you'll benefit from doing so. As the guides will tell you on the mountain, don't worry about tomorrow or next week, just focus on now. Focus on how you can complete — and enjoy — today's workout. You've trained hard and what you do now will make a difference on the mountain. Good luck. John Colver Author of Fit By Nature by Mountaineers Books. www.adventx.com For more information please see our resources for mountaineering fitness and training.
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Treadmills and stair machines only work your legs against the earth’s gravity, not your entire body’s weight or even the weight in the pack.  They also don’t really do much for the downstroke of the leg, just the upstroke.  It’s Newtonian mechanics, guys.

Posted by: borisjimski on 7/4/2012 at 1:30 am

Bodyworks, which partners with AAI, says that one needs to be able to go on a treadmill at 15 degrees for 45 minutes at 3.5 mph with a 40-pound pack in order to be in sufficient shape to climb Mt. Ranier.  There is no way I can do that.  Are they exaggerating?  On a good day I can go at 15 degrees at 2.5 mph for 45 min with no weight.

Posted by: Larry on 6/19/2012 at 6:45 am


Ruth Glacier Seminar: Delaney and Team Practice Glacier Travel and Move Camp

It was a wee bit chilly overnight as the clear skies allowed all the heat to escape into outer space. So, we did what any responsible mountaineer would and we waited until the sun was directly upon us before leaving our tents. After a tasty breakfast of bagels, cream cheese, and salmon lox, we ourselves got locked and loaded, ready for glacier travel! After 6ish hours of a slightly less heinous trail breaking through deep snow we arrived at our new campsite.

Our camp is in the middle of two mountain saddles, perfectly situated to catch maximum early morning and late evening sunshine. The rest of the day was consumed by building camp and consuming burritos. We got to bed under overcast skies and were excited to see what tomorrow will bring!

Cheerio,

RMI Guides Jack, Mike and the Ruth Team

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Looks to beautiful! Have fun and enjoy those burritos :)

Posted by: Erin on 5/6/2023 at 3:28 pm


Mt. Triumph: Wittmier and Team Reach Summit

The team led by RMI Guides Dustin Wittmier and Matias Francis reached the summit of Mt. Triumph today! The team climbed Triumph's northeast ridge to the summit where they enjoyed views deep into the North Cascades, including Mt. Baker. The team is making the most of their time in the North Cascades and plan to climb Thornton Peak tomorrow before their program concludes later this week.

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