Entries from Gokyo Trek

It rained for a good chunk of the night, but things were not too bad when we got underway at 8:20 am this morning. It is always tough to leave Phakding with all the flowers in bloom. But we had a mission: enter Sagarmatha National Park and get up to Namche. Before we reached the park entrance, it began to rain on us, but it never got too bad. Just a little soggy. We took a deluxe lunch break in the village of Monjo, and things dried up a little while we were inside. Then we got busy with the big Namche hill. We have already gone uphill plenty in these two days, but the Namche Hill is different. About 2.5 hours of steady climbing. The team crushed it though and we were pulling into the amphitheater-like town of Namche at about 4:15. Now we are getting used to life at 11,400 ft -a task made far easier by the comfort of Camp De Base, our “tea house” for the next two nights. 
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

Wednesday, October 2, 2024

The day worked out spectacularly.  We had to get up pretty early, of course -we left the hotel at 4:30 AM- but the upside to that was there wasn’t much traffic. We were out to the airport in no time, and then it was a little crowded and busy pushing bags through x ray machines and working our way through various lines.  We had just a little bit of waiting and wondering whether the flight would go  -it isn’t uncommon for travel to Lukla to be snarled and delayed by weather- but then we got the call and headed out to our plane.  We filed into the Twin Otter and strapped in for liftoff at 7:45.  Before long the plane was up above the clouds and giant Himalayan peaks were marching past the port side windows.  We could pick out Mt Everest looming on the horizon. By 8:15 the pilots had us safely touching down on the tilted runway at Lukla.  It turned out that all of our baggage had made the flight as well (which doesn’t always happen). We were in business.  And we had earned some good coffee and breakfast.  We took a little time to eat and get organized and at 10:30 we set out walking.  Downhill at first, we’d landed at 9200 ft, but eventually we did a little climbing as well.  We were passing through small farms and villages and dodging porters and pack animals.  In just over three hours and about five miles, we pulled into Phakding and our comfortable Tea House on the Bhote Khosi river. 
This left us plenty of time to relax through the afternoon and evening.  Turns out that tomorrow is another big and important day in a beautiful place. 

Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

PC: Dave Hahn

Tuesday, October 1, 2024 - 8:42 am PT

This was a busy and important day for our trekking team.  We started out with a discussion of our planned itinerary and strategies for success.  We then embarked upon a few hours of tourism.  Nraj took us to the scenic and significant “monkey temple” and to the giant Bodinath Stupa.  He explained how Buddhism and Hinduism exist side by side in Nepal and recited the long history of settlement and development of the Kathmandu valley.  He took us to a painting school where we learned how the iconic and exquisitely detailed mandala tankas are produced.  We were back to the hotel by mid afternoon and then got into full on preparation for trekking.  Equipment checks were performed and the final packing commenced.  The team ate an early dinner and then headed for the rooms early as well.  We intend to get up before dawn and be out at the airport, ready to fly at first light.  We’ll need good luck, weatherwise, to allow safe air travel through the biggest mountains on the planet.  But this seems like a lucky team. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

September 30, 2024 - 7:52 am PT

Step one… get to Kathmandu.  Job done!  Our Gokyo Trek Team came together today, half a planet away from home.  As we were leaving home several days ago, Nepal was in the news for horrific monsoon flooding -news which we each monitored as we came through the airports on the way.  It was quite a pleasant surprise to have big, clear views of the Himalaya when we landed on a sunny, dry day in Kathmandu.   Obviously, we’ll hope that the monsoon continues to fade.  But the first order of business wasn’t fretting about the weather… it was getting a little rest and trying to adjust to all the time zone shifts.  We then had our initial team meeting in the lobby of the classic Yak and Yeti Hotel.  After a few introductions we ventured out into the crazy traffic of Kathmandu.  The seven of us managed to survive crossing ten minutes worth of wrong way traffic and torn up sidewalks to get to the tranquil rooftop Mezze restaurant for a relaxed dinner. 
Tomorrow we’ll get a little more into just how a trek through high mountains works, but for today -just getting here was plenty. 

Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Everything went like clockwork this morning, smooth and easy.  We ate a last trek breakfast and walked toward the Lukla heliport at 7 AM.  There were clouds, but there were also plenty of aircraft coming and going already.  After a short wait and weigh-in session, we were ushered out and into a running A-Star B3.  The pilot went right to work and we cruised out over farms, ridges, rivers and terraces.  He took us around clouds but there were always plenty of open avenues.  After 45 minutes we’d reached the busy Kathmandu airport.  Within minutes we went from being a famous and well above average trekking team to just another van full of tourists in a big city.  We checked back into the comfy Yak and Yeti and headed for the showers.  It was a day for catching up, for mingling with other trekkers and climbers and for getting ready for the next phase… the big travel chore.  But first, we went over to Thamel, the busy tourist and trekker Mecca for a last relaxed dinner together at the New Orleans Cafe.  We toasted a fine journey… one that wasn’t always easy, but one that seemed very much worth the trouble. 

Thanks for following along.

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

We walked for seven hours today… of course we did take a leisurely lunch break in Phakding, so it was less.  But it felt like a big day.  We lost about 2,000 vertical feet in the first hour, coming down the Namche hill.  That was significant, since it meant we were then working at low altitude (around 9,000 ft) which was easier than so much of what we’ve done in the last week.  It was a cloudy day, but there was an amazing amount of helicopter traffic overhead.  And there were plenty of trekkers, porters and pack animals on the trail.  It is prime time in the Khumbu.  Still, we had some fine peaceful moments gazing at waterfalls and flowers and children playing on small farms.  We bounced across a bunch of cable bridges and finally we climbed uphill for the final 90 minutes to reach Lukla.  We’ll spend the night and see if we get lucky with clear weather for flying in the morning. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

As hoped, we woke up a bit more refreshed and recharged at 13,200 ft Dhole.  We were already under puffy clouds as we began walking, but they weren’t very threatening.  Our trail took us further down yesterday’s steep sided valley.  The river far below was positively boiling and churning in its gorge as we passed down into trees (for the first time in nearly a week).  Finally, we had to climb out of the valley we’d been descending.  We gained 1200 feet in a short distance… which we each realized would have been a tough thing at 13,000 ft earlier in our trek.  This time we cruised, acclimated and conditioned to hiking every day.  At the top of our climb, we reached Mong La and sat outside sipping tea to enjoy views of Ama Dablam, Thamserku, Tawoche and Kangtega.  We moved on -with a few more ups and downs, to the beautiful village of Khumjung with its neat yak pens and potato fields.  We enjoyed a leisurely lunch and then walked through the grounds of the Hillary School as we headed for one last mountain  pass to Namche.  It felt easy as anything to come back into the luxury of the 11,300 ft Camp De Base Hotel for an afternoon and evening.  One more big day of walking remains. 

Best Regards,
 RMI Guide Dave Hahn & Team

We got a lot done today. Things started out crystal clear at 15,600 ft in Gokyo this morning. We started walking at our customary 8:00 am. At first we strolled along one glowing turquoise lake after another, then we got moving down steeper descents along a charging, churning river. It got really big when we reached the terminus of the Ngozumpa Glacier. The steep sided valley got bigger and bigger. We had “new” mountains to look at on all sides. Despite the rugged and confining valley, we’d occasionally come across hidden side valleys with vivid green yak pastures and a few tea houses. We took advantage of one of those houses to simply sit outside and sip tea for a relaxing 45 minutes. Then it was back to work, dropping altitude. We rolled into 13,200 ft Dhole and settled into the welcoming Alpine Lodge after about four hours travel. High altitude was wonderful and exciting…but none of us mind being a little lower. Eating is easier, sleeping is easier…almost everything is easier. The afternoon clouded up--again--and so it wasn’t hard to just take it easy after our big walk. 

Best Regards,

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

The team survived sleeping at 15,600 ft   In fact there were still smiles all around and everybody was into going for a hike.  It didn’t hurt that daybreak in Gokyo was beautiful… Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world, was just up the valley and glowing magically.  We headed toward it after breakfast.  We walked for three hours along the massive Ngozumpa Glacier to a place called Fifth Lake (by those of us unable to pronounce the local name).  There, from 16,500 ft, we had a few minutes of unimpeded views of Everest and Lhotse as well as the nearby and spectacular Gyangchungkang.   Then the clouds came in and we headed back toward our comfy digs in Gokyo.  We were back before the snow flurries flew.  The day was made more enjoyable by the fact that we saw a total of two other people in the giant valley we chose to explore.

We’ve got a final night in Gokyo now before we point downhill in the morning.

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn

Our big day began at about 5:45 AM… which was when the sun started hitting the high peaks.  There was a little more cloud -again- for the start of the day but it didn’t really seem like it would affect us.  We got walking at 7 AM in the cool shadows.  The trail turned uphill immediately and we got busy gaining altitude.  We enjoyed pretty much having it all to ourselves.  We took short breaks every hour or so.  There was great variety to the climb.  We reached an area of high alpine lakes and ultimately a grand stone staircase to the Renjo La -the pass at 17,800 ft.  We reached it at 12:30 after 4.5 hrs.  Everest was visible in the distance but there were lots of clouds about, meaning we just got some quick glimpses of Lhotse and Makalu and Cho Oyu.  It was a thrilling spot to be in and so we spent nearly a half hour enjoying it.  We made good progress down the other side, reaching Gokyo in just two more hours… at three PM.  Gokyo Lake was mesmerizing.  Quite large and quite turquoise in color.  It was wonderful to walk along the shore as a finish to the day.  And then we were in a comfortable tea house, sipping tea again. 

Best Regards

RMI Guide Dave Hahn