Entries from Aconcagua
Last night at high camp, it just didn't seem like we would get a chance to make the top of Aconcagua... it was snowing and socked in when I sent yesterday's dispatch. But then, just before darkness came on, the snow stopped and the clouds dropped. During the night there were occasional waves of intense wind that could be heard coming from miles away, but these were short bursts and sure enough, at 4 AM the stars were out and the wind was gone. Our stoves were cooking by 4:15 and we were walking out of camp by headlamp at around 5:15 AM, bound for the summit.
We had crampons on all the way and were lucky to be on snow for about 95% of our journey. Peter mentioned that he'd done the same climb without once touching snow, just loose rock, so we were happy with the conditions. It wasn't terribly cold and once we found sunshine things were quite pleasant. We lost that sunshine when we began the long, long traverse to the base of the Canaleta. There were perhaps a hundred other climbers going for the top today, but we ended up nearly in the lead by half-way up the steep and direct Canaleta. This broad gulley is about 800 vertical feet... easy at sea level, I'm sure, but beginning at 22,000 ft makes it somewhat challenging. We were challenged, but all did well, the extra nights at high camp had worked in our favor for acclimatization.
We popped out on the summit at noon and enjoyed a sunny and wonderful hour up there. We were victorious and thrilled with the new views... but several of us cried like babies as we remembered our friend Fede and his tragic passing on the summit of Aconcagua all too recently. We left the top at 1 PM and walked quickly into a snowstorm. Not a vicious snowstorm, there was little wind, but a socked-in, steady snowfall. It only took us two hours to make it back to high camp and so we knocked the tents down and set out walking for basecamp. We were anxious to get down and rejoin the rest of our team who'd descended yesterday.
In Basecamp by about 6:30, we had a fine reunion dinner and made plans for our walk down-valley begining tomorrow.
An improbable summit became a treasured moment with great friends close to 23,000 ft above sea level. All are safe, all are down the hard part of the mountain.
Not too many of us got good sleep last night. Waves of wind rolled through, driving snow and rattling nerves. The alarm clocks went off at 4:30 AM but the wind hadn't let up by that point. It did eventually calm down with daybreak... just a little too late for us to go for Aconcagua's summit. We all crawled out for breakfast and to dry out and stare at the storm's leavings. There was still some sign of wind up high, but all-in-all, we enjoyed a calm morning. The decision was made for part of the team to descend and wait things out at Basecamp while the rest of us tried for one more lucky day. All were sorry to see Melissa, Gerry, Rachel and Kelly walk out under big packs a little after mid-day. The clouds were already building by then for the next storm and sure enough, by mid-afternoon it was snowing and we were resting quietly in our tents... waiting patiently for another chance. Dinner was in steadily falling snow, but at least there wasn't a puff of wind to mess with the team's enjoyment of their mac-and-cheese-supreme. We'll hope that the snow quits and that the stars come out at some point tonight... we turn in ready to jump all over a summit bid tomorrow.
Stay tuned.
Hey, just dropping a line really quickly.
We have been running around like crazy here in Los Penitentes getting all of our things ready for the big trip ahead. Needless to say it was a bit of a late night last night but we seem to be caught up with everything. The effects of the airline delays and the late arrival of our baggage have put us behind schedule but I think we are about to leave the hustle and bustle behind. We plan on finishing up the last of the packing this morning and hitting the trail for the mountain sometime around noon today. Everybody in the group is really excited about the journey ahead, if not a bit anxious. We will check in via sat phone sometime tonight from our first camp on the approach, Pampa de Lenas.
Wish us luck
Up at 2:30 AM this morning to start the stoves and go for a climb. It had been a still and calm night until around midnight when a wind began, but it wasn't a very strong wind and we considered ourselves quite lucky as we set out around 4 AM under starry and clear skies. The team wore crampons from the outset as our "trail" was packed snow on a long traverse to a camp called "Black Rock" on the normal Aconcagua route. We have been climbing the "False Polish" route and this is where it joins the Routa Normal. Everybody was climbing well, the production teams got their sunrise shots (sunrise on the rest of the planet, we were in shadow) and we were making good progress. It seemed just a matter of time until the whole team stood on the summit, but as we reached 21,400 ft we saw the first signs of wind-driven clouds ripping from the summit ridge and the odd sheet of low cloud scudding over the summits far below us. We began the traverse to the Canaleta, the key gulley giving access to the summit ridge, but we were turned back by wind and cold. Peter made the decision to wait for sun in a sheltered spot at around 21,300 ft where the team could recharge and get ready for either a brutal push up into the wind or a quick descent should conditions deteriorate. Conditions worsened before our eyes as a cloud cap built and lowered on the mountain. The smart and easy call to head for high camp was made and we were easily in camp again by 9:15 AM. The snow started at around 10:30 AM and we climbed into our tents to rest and relax. Our hope, of course, is that today's foray, a record breaker in altitude terms for some of the team, will turn into the perfect rehearsal for our successful summit bid... maybe tomorrow. For now, we are safe and sound and warm... the winds seem to be calming and although it is still snowing, there is plenty of reason for optimism.
Billy and Jake here checking in on the team's first night in Argentina together. Most of the crew is a little travel weary but full of enthusiasm about the upcoming adventure. After a general team meeting and a round of introductions we spent most of the afternoon with a thorough gear check. Later this evening the team dined at a new parilla in town, enjoying delicious salads, Argentine beef, and vino tinto. The weather here in Mendoza is beautiful: clear, sunny, and warm during the day and cool at night. Perfect for growing grapes, or just living! I am pretty sure none of us are missing the North American winter. Anyways, we're resting up from those several days of traveling and gearing up for a super busy day tomorrow. Lots of loose ends to tie together before we split town for the mountains and Los Penitentes!
Have a good night, and we'll check back in tomorrow!
After that slight worry that the weather was going to fall apart on us yesterday, we experienced our calmest and warmest night of the trip so far. Followed by a perfect and cloudless morning at Camp One while we knocked the tents down and loaded up for the move to high camp. The route is now familiar and we chugged along with very few other climbers in our vicinity. First to the pass between Aconcagua and its neighbor, Ameghino, and then up a broad shoulder until we traversed slightly to the North and made our way into high camp in virtually windless conditions. We got our tents up, tried to drink a bunch of water and did some easy review of the climbing techniques we'll rely on for our ascent tomorrow. We sat out in the strong sun for dinner with the Aconcagua veterans on the team explaining that they'd rarely experienced such perfect summer weather so high on the hill. The views are tremendous from this camp, and the remaining slopes of Aconcagua are formidable- towering steeply above us, but the team did great moving up today and everybody seems primed for an alpine start and a chance at the summit tomorrow.
Fingers Crossed,
Dave
The sun hit our tents just after 7 AM and we got out fast for our carry to high camp. There was a distinct change in the weather as we saw a wind sculpted cloud cap hovering above the mountain's summit for much of the day. We were walking by 8:30 AM in any case, fully prepared for big winds to begin... but they never really did. It was novel to have the trail to ourselves as most other groups seemed to be on a slightly later schedule. As usual, our production teams were leapfrogging and ambushing all the way, but we made fine time anyway. The goal was to carry gear and food to our intended high camp, but also to get in a day of exercise at altitude... mission accomplished. Along the way, we enjoyed views of a few other Andean giants and some new valleys below. The sky grew progressively more cloudy, but we retained our great views of Aconcagua's formidable summit pyramid. We'd reached 19,200 ft by mid-day and all seemed reasonably comfortable with the altitude. It didn't take long to cache the gear and head back down the crushed lava and pumice trail to low camp where we relaxed through an easy afternoon in the tents. Resting up for our big move tomorrow... weather permitting.
Not so much to report today. An easy day for all as the weather was perfect and the schedule was delightfully uncluttered. The production teams got some shots of camp life, most went for short walks. Myself and Ed Viesturs carried gear to 19,200 ft, previewing the route to Camp II which we will retrace with the whole gang tomorrow.
No big parties last night, all was quiet at Basecamp until the morning helicopter began what seems to be its morning workout at 7AM, just before the sun hit. We were all up and half-packed by our 8 AM breakfast. Everybody had lots of details to chase down and loads to figure out before our 9:30 AM departure. The production teams used their scouting of the previous day to figure out some nice shots as the guides and climbers chugged higher over now-familiar terrain. We took four hours to make it into our new camp, a bit higher than we'd cached yesterday... concensus seems to put us at around 16,500 ft. We found a place of our own up here, which is actually quite nice. This is a busy mountain in its prime climbing season, so there are almost always other teams around us, coming and going. At our Camp One, though, we've carved out a little privacy by virtue of walking a little farther than most choose to. We had clear skies today and strong sunshine, but we have all transitioned from the cotton clothes, shorts and t-shirts that we wore during the trek in. Now we are in mountain climbing clothing and gaurding against the cold. Even so, the afternoon was very warm and comfortable as we napped in the tents. We did dinner over by Melissa's tent, sitting on our sleeping pads in the pumice and gravel with puffy coats on. The light is just getting good now at 7:30 PM, we are in shadow, but we are high enough now that we can see out of the surrounding valleys and watch the sun set on South America.
Rest/Acclimatization day tomorrow... maybe a carry or two for the guides and some production work for the artistically inclined photographers and filmers, but basically tomorrow will be a day designed to allow our bodies to catch up with our rate of ascent.
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Hello my name is Richard, I am very interested in climbing the largest summit in Argentina
Aconcagua .
I have hiked Mount Kilimanjaro in Africa two yrs Ava , then Highest mt in Ecuador.
I would like to see how many days it would have to take metro climb to top .
Also price for me including food, lodge ,etc
Please contact me as soon as possible so I can make my plans.
Thank you very much for your time.
Richard klein
Posted by: Richard klein on 8/7/2019 at 1:45 pm
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