Entries from Aconcagua
Well, the summit is still very far away, but we are headed in the right direction. We left Penitentes this morning at 10:30 am with perfect weather. Temperatures were warm but not scorching, and there was a nice breeze to keep things bearable. Everyone was excited to get some blood flowing after long travel days, and we made it to our camp at
Pampa de Leñas in about four and a half hours. It always takes me a few days to adjust to the desert climate, but everyone else seems to be fitting right in. No sunburns, no blisters, just efficient movement through a giant valley.
The only snafu of the day occurred when a localized dirt tornado blew through camp and sucked one of our sleeping pads into the stratosphere. If it entered restricted airspace no one noticed, or no one cared. Against all odds, it fluttered back down to camp. A casual stroll and a quick inspection revealed that it was no worse for the wear.
We’re about to sit down for one of the best meals of the trip. A traditional Argentinian asado, with meats of all kinds cooked over an open flame. Then we’ll go to sleep under the stars, and continue the journey tomorrow.
RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith, and Avery Parrinello
On The Map
Hello from Penitentes! Today we ate a nice breakfast at the hotel, and got an early morning start obtaining our climbing permits. It’s possible that one member of the team had to run around town and secure some important pieces of gear, but that’s par for the course. We ended up leaving Mendoza a little later than we had hoped due to some permit delays, but the team did an awesome job hustling once we got to Penitentes. We re-organized all of our gear so that the mules could better haul it, packed a lot of food and kitchen gear, and headed to dinner. Everyone is excited to start walking tomorrow. Once we hit the trail, things get much simpler. Whatever we have is what we have, and we just need to get from point A to point B. The team has done a great job leaping the logistical hurdles that mark the beginning of any long trip. Tomorrow we’ll check in from Pampa de Leñas.
RMI Guides JM, Hannah, and Avery
December 29, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
Yesterday we spent the day at
Plaza Argentina sorting gear for the mules and enjoying a quiet base camp before the post holiday rush. Today we woke to high winds at base camp and said our goodbyes to the Grajales staff and set out for the 15-mile walk to Pampa Las Lenas. As we retraced our steps from two weeks ago, we had a chance to consider what we had accomplished on this trip and add some closure to what could have been. We concluded the day with a traditional Argentine asado for dinner and plenty of laughs from the difference that two weeks had made on us physically and mentally as we ate alongside groups of fresh climbers just starting their trip. Tomorrow is a short three-hour walk to the park entrance and from there we’ll be in Mendoza to conclude our expedition. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Mike King
The team has arrived in
Mendoza! Most of the luggage arrived as well, with a few straggling bags to be accounted for. After introductions and a quick orientation, we set off to complete our climbing permits and a gear check. Dinner was fantastic, and at eight pm we were the first ones in the restaurant. Traditionally, people eat much later in Argentina, but after long travel days we need some sleep. Tomorrow we leave the big city behind, and head to Penitentes. We are excited to get this trip rolling!
RMI Guides JM Gorum, Hannah Smith & Avery Parrinello
December 27, 2018
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
We flew out of
Union Glacier at 3:30 AM the day after Christmas, arriving in Punta Arenas at 8 in the morning. Under ordinary circumstances, we’d have slept the day away and celebrated in the evening with a big dinner. But we’d enjoyed a fair number of big dinners at Union and my gang had families and lives to get back to. We showered in town and repacked, had a nice lunch and then headed for the airport again. Sure enough, we started saying goodbye to each other in airplane aisles and security lines and before long, the five of us were flying in different directions. We shared plenty on this expedition, and although we were ultimately in different places, I’m positive that we were still sharing exhaustion at the end of 36 hours of constant travel.
There was plenty of relief at being done, but there were also a thousand new memories of challenges met, storms and delays endured and of five steady companions who got through it all while still laughing and smiling and loving Antarctica.
Thanks for following our adventure.
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
December 27, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 13,800'
It’s one of the toughest decisions a guide team makes, when to call it quits below the summit of a big peak. We had great weather until we didn’t. The Team acclimated well and above 18,000’ life gets harder. With winds increasing and our number of days dwindling, we decided to get out of the wind and start the descent to Base Camp. While our climbers are disappointed, they all got two spectacular weeks in the Andes at high altitude, made some new friends and climbing partners. The Team will spend tomorrow at
Plaza Argentina and begin the two day walk to the road on the 29th. A huge thanks to a wonderful group of climbers and those that supported them along the way.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
December 26, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
After a calm Christmas rest day we woke early to go for a walk towards
High Camp and potentially beyond. The morning was cold with a light breeze out of the West stinging our faces. This was going to be the last calm day for a while. We didn’t make it to far before deciding that we need more acclimatization and the additional terrain would be to big of an undertaking. We returned to Camp 2 at 18,000’ and hung out while the winds rattled the tents and the dry snow shot off the upper ridge lines. The Team is anxious for a summit bid and the winds have arrived but not quite as forecast. Our plan is to move up to High Camp at 19,600’ tomorrow and see what we get. The next window of calm weather isn’t until the 31st and there is plenty that could change by then.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
December 25, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
A few years ago I had the pleasure to work with
Caleb Ladue, RMI guide on his first trip here on
Aconcagua. We spent Christmas with our group at base camp. Caleb had bought a bunch of treats and little bottles of champagne for our team to enjoy, one of which was TANG mimosas. He had somehow grabbed a sock from each climber without them knowing and when the team walked into our dining tent there hung a stocking for each of them. Caleb passed away in a skiing accident not far from where we are now in the Andes last fall. In his memory, we started our holiday morning off with stockings and hot drinks delivered to the Team’s tents. The champagne would have been to heavy to get up this high and not benefited our acclimatization so we opted for coffee.
The Team is doing well and excited for a rest day. The weather is supposed to get windy for the next 3-5 days. Advancing our schedule isn’t in the cards so we will wait to see what the weather gives us and hopefully have a summit bid Sunday-Monday. This will get us back to Mendoza for flights home. Until then we are going to reinforce camp and enjoy the calm air and warm tents.
The office sent in your blog comments, we will read them during breakfast, thanks for supporting the Team from a far, it means a lot to them. Merry Christmas from 18,000’.
RMI Guide Mike King
December 24, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 18,000'
After returning from our carry yesterday the snowfield above our camp had soaked up more UV radiation than the Tropicana sun tan lotion team. This created a flooding event that required earthwork and various channels to divert the water away from our tents. We worked faster than FEMA during Hurricane Katrina because we not only had skin in the game but nice fluffy down sleeping bags to keep dry. By the time our Team completed a micro Suez Canal, the snow started falling and would blanket the mountain by midnight, go figure. Led Zeppelin said that when the levy breaks, you have no place to go, we decided to challenge that statement and move to
Camp 2 this morning.
While people walked on frozen and slick rocks this morning, the sun rose like it does everyday and made for a great day to 18,000’. Our Camp 2 is technically the now closed Guanacos Route, Camp 3. It is placed between two old snowfields that would have been glaciers maybe a few hundred years ago. With views of the Polish Glacier to our south and the heavily glaciated peaks to the North we couldn’t get a better place to enjoy the afternoon. The Team has been putting in hard work and it’s paid off with a day off for Christmas, Festivus or whatever they celebrate. If we hadn’t taken a day off there might have been some airing of grievances and a few feats of strength. Fortunately, the guides have some treats planned and nice breakfast for the group. The winds that were forecasted have been pushed back a few days and we are all grateful that the dead still air has allowed for such a great trip above Plaza Argentina. Everyone sends their love back home for the holidays.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
December 23, 2018
Posted by: Mike King, Nick Scott, Gloria Roe
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Aconcagua
Elevation: 16,200'
The sun hit camp around 7:20 am and the Team got a slow roll to the day. We ate a delicious egg and potato scramble before packing up our cache items. The calm and warm morning facilitated getting out of camp by 10:30. The terrain between the two camps is comprised of three traverses to gain the 1,600’ elevation gain. Between the first and second traverse is the
Ameghino Col which provides a sprawling view of the Andes with several glaciated and snow covered peaks. It’s likely the most scenic and photographed part of the climb.
We were in Camp 2 at 18,000’ in just under three hours with about 45 minutes to relax and gather our cached items. A cache for those who don’t know is where a climbing team will bury their gear, food and fuel so weather, winds and birds can’t get to it. In our situation we cover our cache with rocks. The Team performed well and descended back to Camp 1 for some well deserved rest in warm tents, gently swaying in a light breeze.
There are reports of increasing wind starting on the 24th and lasting for 3-4 days. If we are all feeling good in the morning, we will move our camp to 18,000’ for the storm and batten down the tents for Christmas and a few rest days.
Thanks for following along, the Team sends it’s love to the family and friends back home.
RMI Guide Mike King
On The Map
Happy New Year team! Hope you have a fantastic trip up the mountain! Someone give Hannah a hug from her momma!
Posted by: Shannon Smith on 12/31/2018 at 10:03 am
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