Entries from Vinson Massif
December 12, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 9,100'
It was great to be in Vinson Base last night... Quiet and peaceful (once the airplanes quit bringing climbers in, that is, sometime after 2 AM). We got going this morning at the usual VBC civilized hour of 9 AM. There was plenty to do in getting sorted, getting breakfast and getting some meeting time in with the other climbing guides and the ALE staff. Eventually we got tents down, packs loaded, and our ropes tied for glacier travel. We were first out of camp at 1:43 PM. Conditions were excellent and we made great time, arriving at the 9,000 ft "Low" Camp at 6:30, having traveled 5.6 miles. Sunburn was of more concern to us than frostbite today. The views of
Vinson's giant and jagged northern neighbors- Shinn, Epperly and Gardner, were stupendous. Our camp went up quick and easy. Dinner went down without any hiccups and we were in bed by 11 PM. All were warned that the brilliant sunshine would warm the tents only until 3 AM. Then, although the sun won't set, it will go behind our mountain for about eight hours and life will be cold in the shadows. We'll reemerge from the tents at 11 AM to see what sort of day we have.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
December 12, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 7,200'
December 11, 2014 - 8:01 pm PT
A good chunk of this day was spent like the last three days... waiting and wondering when we'd get to fly. But two thirds of the way through dinner, everything changed. The weather at
Vinson got good and we got up from the table and out to take down our tents.
We'd spent the morning enjoying a fat-tire bike ride around the 10 kilometer course. During afternoon, the wind got up at Union Glacier and we stayed inside the big dining tent, playing games, reading and talking. Most had given up hope for getting to Vinson on this day by the time we got the call. We loaded into the ski equipped Twin Otter and took off in a hurry. Then we enjoyed the magical scenery as we flew up the middle of the Ellsworth Mountains. Nothing but ice and rock -in a million different configurations- as far as the eye could see. The mountains got enormous as we approached Vinson and the pilot dove down toward the Branscomb Glacier to set us, ever so smoothly, at Vinson Basecamp. We hopped out into strong sunshine and calm air... Such a relief after the winds at Union today. Up went our tents and we crawled in after staring slack-jawed at the unreal and gigantic ice cliffs and rock escarpments around us.
Tomorrow, if all goes well, we just might go mountain climbing.
Best Regards
RMI Guides Dave Hahn
On The Map
December 10, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
The sun refused to shine today. At least in the Union Glacier region of Antarctica. Not so bright over at
Vinson either, according to reports. No flying today as a system of moisture is moving through -at least we hope it is moving through. For all of that, it wasn't a bad day here, just cloud, murk and light snow. There wasn't any of the wind which usually is the main ingredient for making a miserable day in these parts. We got out this morning to review avalanche procedures and then went for a walk and talk on the 10 kilometer track which is groomed and marked out with flags on the immense flat surface of the glacier. Afternoon was spent on reading, mingling, chocolate and chess.
As usual, we are ready to fly out to Vinson for our climb. First thing tomorrow morning would be just fine, but the forecast is still calling for mank.
Best Regards
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The weather out at Vinson Base remained unsuitable for flying. The fog was in. We ate breakfast and drank coffee at Union Glacier Camp. Without a ray of hope for the
Vinson mission, the Twin Otter aircraft were dispatched on long flights that took them close to the South Pole. They dropped off several teams interested in skiing "the Last Degree" (of latitude - 60 nautical miles) to the Pole. Back at Union, our team whiled away a windy morning inside the dining tent. After lunch, things had calmed and so we got out our ropes and rescue gear to run through crevasse rescue systems. There are dozens of other climbers in our same boat... Waiting for a plane. They were out in force today, reviewing their own rope techniques in Russian, German, French, Chinese, and exotic English.
We'll hope for a change in the fog out at BBC tomorrow.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Team switch day at Union Glacier. The Ilyushin 76 flew today, landing at about 2:45 PM. "V1" ended and "V2" began. There were a couple of hours of overlap in Union Base so that the two teams could mingle and compare notes on Punta Arenas and Vinson Massif. The V1 gang told stories of the cold summit, the good food and the two pure white snow petrels we saw at
Vinson Base yesterday while waiting for the airplane (it is uncommon to see seabirds so far from the sea). The V2 folk talked about false starts yesterday and touring town with Jeff Martin. Eventually it was time for JJ to take V1 out to the big jet airplane and head back across the Drake Passage to South America. It is likely that the team is celebrating in Punta at this very moment (11:43 PM). Back on the Ice, the V2ers waited patiently for flying weather to materialize at Vinson Base. Word was that it was socked in with fog. We talked, played chess, ate meals and drank coffee, but none of that made the clouds go away. By about 10 PM we built our tents and called it a night... In the bright sunshine. Tomorrow perhaps. Getting to the middle of Antarctica was plenty for today.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
The waiting is over! We got the call at 7:30 this morning that it was a go. We needed to be ready by 8:00 for the shuttle to the airport. By the time we got to the airport, the crew was already making final flight preparations, and an hour later we were ready for takeoff.
Next stop will be
Union Glacier where the team will be met by
Dave Hahn. Dave will write the next dispatch once they arrive on the ice.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
The team had a relaxing and slow morning at
Vinson Basecamp. Many commented on how good it had been to sleep well and warm once again. Life at Basecamp seemed a million times easier than it had before we climbed the mountain. However, yesterday's predictions and proclamations that we'd shuttle from airplane to airplane and from continent to continent... were overly optimistic. We did succeed -in late afternoon- in catching a twin otter out of VBC. There wasn't a cloud in the sky and so the high mountains of the Sentinel Range were spectacular whereas they'd been cloaked in murk when we flew in. Union Glacier camp was even cushier than VBC, naturally, and so nobody expressed great frustration when it was announced that the Ilyushin 76 would not be coming today due to deteriorating weather. We're plenty happy for the moment, sitting in chairs and eating food that guides didn't cook. The gang wouldn't mind flying tomorrow though... We'll see.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
On The Map
Hello,
Well, the phone call we got this morning was not the one we wanted. The news was that the flight was not going to happen and that the next scheduled update would be at 7:30 pm. The winds at both Punta Arenas and
Union Glacier were too high.
We made great use of the day despite the flight being delayed. We took a tour of Fuerto Bulnes, the first establishment in this area, founded in 1834. It is about 35 miles east of Punta Arenas and plays a very important part in this area's history. After some lunch we did a short walking tour of the city's cemetery which is filled with beautiful mausoleums. While a bit on the side of eerie, it was well worth it.
We were back at the hotel early and ready for the next update. When the call came, they said that the wind gusts in the last hour (53 knots) at the airport were a little too high, but they would call back in an hour and give us another update. The next call came as promised and while the winds diminished at the airport, the relative humidity at Union Glacier had increased 82%, and the flight was not going to happen tonight.
So the waiting game continues and we will start the process again tomorrow morning with the 7:30 am update. Hopefully tomorrow will be our day to fly.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
December 6, 2014
Posted by: Dave Hahn
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Vinson Massif
Elevation: 9,100'
The day dawned clear and sunny again but with wind tossing a little snow around up high. We ate a farewell breakfast at high camp and got packing. The team was roped up by 11:15 AM and ready to climb down. Considering our heavy packs, the long and steep fixed rope section went quite well. With no particular difficulty we reached low camp and got busy shuffling and resorting gear, food and garbage for hauling sleds on the lower mountain. Travel was easy then, on a well-packed snow trail and we reached
Vinson Base by 4:30 PM. Up went the tents, one more time. Although the weather was fine for flying, ALE's planes were elsewhere and engaged with other missions. We are told that prospects are excellent tomorrow for getting not only to Union Glacier but all the way to Punta Arenas, Chile. If that holds, then perhaps
JJ's steak dinner over camp stoves tonight was our last meal together. If so, it was an excellent and peaceful gathering. We've shared success and plenty of hard work these past weeks. The team loved hearing the "blog comments" that the RMI office emailed to us (we don't have the ability to surf the web ourselves). It helped a great deal to know so many were following our progress. Thank You.
Best Regards,
RMI Guide Dave Hahn
Greetings,
Today was another fairly relaxed day for us. We had taken care of all our packing and last minute shopping yesterday, so we were ready for the "weigh in" at 11:30. ALE, the company in charge of all the flight logistics, came to the hotel to weigh and collect all our checked baggage for the flight tomorrow. It will be loaded into the plane tonight and be ready to go whenever we get the green light.
We had our flight briefing at the ALE office at 5:00 pm. All the passengers (climbers and skiers) were there, about 45 total, to learn about the procedures for flying to Antarctica. As you might guess, this is definitely not a normal flight. It's a cargo plane. There are no window seats, overhead bins, or cabin crew. The plane was built for only two reasons, hauling cargo and landing in "off strip" runways. And a blue ice runway in the interior of
Antarctica definitely qualifies as "off strip".
At the airport in Punta Arenas, we will board the plane in 40-45 degree temperatures, wearing or carrying our Antarctica clothing. The flight, about 3000 kilometers, takes about 4 1/2 hours, and when you de-plane, you are literally on a different continent, but more importantly, it is one of the coldest and remote places in the world. When you step outside, the temperature will be about -15 degrees Fahrenheit at
Union Glacier. And that does not include any windchill.
We got a flight update tonight at 7:30 pm. Tomorrow morning, they will get an updated weather report from Union Glacier at 7:00 am and after reviewing the new information, will call us between 7:30 and 8:30 am. If the weather looks good, they will give us a flight time with about 30 minutes to get ready for the shuttle to the airport. If there is any concern about the weather, they will give us the time for the next weather update. Hopefully the first call we get is the call to get ready, that the flight is a go.
We have already had dinner and are back at the hotel. We wanted to have an early night in anticipation of the big day tomorrow. We'll keep you posted.
Best,
RMI Guide Jeff Martin
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Yay daddy! Stay safe and keep climbing! I’m completely done with my final exams and came home yesterday. Miss you so much!
Love,
Tilly
Posted by: Mattie Sullivan on 12/13/2014 at 11:17 am
Yay! I figured you were on your way as well. Thanks for the updates Dave! Give Gary a hug for me :-)
Posted by: Kate Prusack on 12/13/2014 at 7:11 am
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