Entries from Denali
May 27, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 5:41 PM PT
Winds remained strong overnight and our camp weathered the storm admirably. The combo of strong mountaineering tents, solid anchors, and stout snow walls creates a pretty burly fortress against the elements.
This morning we had some blue sky above us for a couple hours before the clouds eased back in. Winds up high on the
West Buttress continue to be strong. We're hopeful that the weather forecast validates and winds will diminish by tomorrow. We might have a short window to summit in the next few days. We'll see what plays out, but we'd like to climb to High Camp tomorrow and hopefully have a chance to summit on Wednesday. We're at the mercy of the weather though, so our schedule remains flexible to her whim.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 27, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Sunday, May 26, 2019 - 11:41 PM PT
Well, the storm is here. It snowed all day today. Hard to say exactly how much. It’s ankle deep in some spots, and waist deep in others. We’ve been moving consistently and working hard every day up until now, so this forced rest day wasn’t the worst thing in the world. We spent our time shoveling snow, eating bacon, shoveling snow, reading, shoveling snow, and napping. We will probably wake up in the middle of the night to shovel some more snow. That’s
Alaska for ya. It looks like we probably won’t be going anywhere for a few days, but that’s no problem for us. When we finally do get to move we’ll be well rested, and well versed in the art of maintaining camp in a storm. Until tomorrow, the team sends their best.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
May 26, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
We're at
14 Camp weathering out a storm that is producing snow and wind. We established robust snow walls around our camp so we're doing just fine. We enjoyed a multi-hour brunch and coffee session this morning in the comfort of our cook tent, protected from the elements.
Now, everyone is nestled in their tents relaxing, reading, snacking or snoozing to pass the time. The sound of snow hitting the tent and the flapping of nylon tent flies in the wind are reminders of harsh conditions outside while we rest comfortably in our sleeping bags.
The storm is forecast to continue through tomorrow, easing on Tuesday.
Until tomorrow...
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 26, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
The team woke up to another expected stormy morning. We decided to make pancakes for breakfast, a lengthy process at
14,000' when you're serving for 12. We manage to take until almost midday to scarf down the feast. The weather however isn't as severe as the forecast was calling for but still not nearly suitable enough for travel higher. So we'll spend another afternoon hunkered down in the tents. The forecast is calling for another day of stormy weather before improvement is expected into Tuesday. Waiting out bad weather such as this is a common occurrence on this mountain and I may argue that it's simply an "entry fee" for safe passage to the summit. The team is doing great however with all the down time and all are well equipped with various forms of entertainment to pass the hours. My favorite being snacking. I mean, the more I eat the less my pack weighs, right? If only such simple logic actually translated to reality as efficiently as it does in my head! As I finish ty
ping this I can hear the wind fiercely barreling over the exposed granite of the upper mountain like a freight train rumbles the earth as is passes through a small western town where the residents are so use to the thunderous event that it seemingly goes unnoticed. Such is life at our little village here perched at 14,000ft. Just a quaint little town with a train problem.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
May 25, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,200'
Today we woke to more clear skies, but with a hint of wind. We had a quick breakfast and then headed downhill to grab our cache. About twenty minutes of downhill walking got us to all of our gear, and then about an hour and a half of walking uphill got us back to camp. Throughout the day winds increased and snow started to fall, so we didn’t get to relax the afternoon away like we wanted. Instead we spent the second half of our day building snow walls and fortifying our camp. It seems like the weather system that forecasters have been calling for might actually be materializing. That’s no problem for us, as we’ve got a strong camp with all of our gear, so we are prepared to wait for as long as we may need to. We are planning on carrying some gear up to 14,000' Camp tomorrow, but unless the weather improves we will just be resting here at 11,200'. The team sends their best to everyone back home!
RMI Guide JM Gorum
On The Map
May 25, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Today dawned beautifully clear, cold and calm. But we knew it wouldn't last as a multi day storm was forecast to start impacting the mountain today. So we got up early and had breakfast and fellow guide Alan Davis and the crew took advantage of the clear weather to head over to the Edge of the World, a dramatic overlook just outside of 14 camp that looks down on the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier and out to the Base of Ski Hill on the main Kahiltna Glacier where we established our first camp nearly two weeks ago.
After returning from the Edge, the team returned to camp and got right to work fortifying our already impressive snow walls. The goal was to be ready for any strong winds that will hit out camp during this imminent storm.
Meanwhile, fellow guide Alex Halliday and I went back down to the 11,200' camp where we had cached some extra food and fuel. We dug up the cache and snagged the supplies and returned back up to 14,200'. The goal here was to be sure we had sufficient supplies should the storm extend further than forecast.
All in all, it was a productive day. And now the storm has begun. It is currently snowing with very limited visibility and gusty winds. And we're ready for it. We hope to weather the storm and take advantage of a potential weather window early next week to make a bid for the summit.
That's it for now,
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
May 25, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
The team slept in this morning after a long day climbing to
16,400' yesterday. With our cache in place we are now just waiting for the right weather window. Unfortunately the forecast is calling for a strong low pressure system to move through the area starting this evening through possibly Tuesday. The system is expected to bring high winds and heavy snowfall. The weather up until now has been spectacular so I suppose we can handle a few days of rest. That's all for now. Thanks for following along.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
On The Map
May 25, 2019
Posted by: Steve Gately, Ben Ammon, James Bealer
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,000'
Friday, May 24, 2019 11:19 PM PT
After awaking to an uncertain forecast and thick clouds passing through camp, the team gathered for breakfast to wait and see what the day held. After a short wait, the clouds began to break and we were greeted with views of the West Buttress. The day went on to deliver excellent weather and we were able to establish a cache at the base of
Washburn's Thumb, around 16,400 feet. With our final cache in position, we are now resting at 14k camp and waiting for a weather window to move to 17k camp and then make our attempt on the summit.
RMI Guide Steve Gately & Team
May 25, 2019
Posted by: JM Gorum, JT Schmitt, Dustin Wittmier
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 11,000'
Friday, May 24, 2019 11:08 PM PT
Last night the forecast called for increasing snow and wind, but we woke up this morning to find that to be 100% incorrect. Skies were clear all the way down the
Kahiltna and all the way to the summit. We packed up camp early in an attempt to beat the heat, and it worked out pretty well. We got moved in to our new home around 2pm, got a quick nap in, and ate a lot of food. Now we’re all relaxing in our tents and heading towards sleep. It’s always a long day getting up here, but the team handled it with grace and style.
Tomorrow we will retrieve our cache that is just downhill. It should be a short day, with a lot of relaxing and resting in the afternoon. Everyone is in good health and good spirits, though a few folks are concerned about NBA results.
RMI Guide JM Gorum & Team
May 24, 2019
Posted by: Mike Walter, Alan Davis, Alex Halliday
Categories: Expedition Dispatches Denali
Elevation: 14,200'
Friday, May 24, 2019, 3:49 PM PT
Last night was warm (for
14,200' on Denali) and we woke to clear, calm skies. It looks like it would be a good day to move up high, but there is a strong weather front forecast for this weekend and we weren't quite ready to make a dash uphill to try to take advantage of this short weather window. Instead, we're taking another rest day and enjoying the sun and warm temps.
We took a rope team up the fixed lines again today to get some exercise and stretch the legs, anticipating another few rest days in our near future.
The team is doing well and we're in position to strike when our weather window appears.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
On The Map
Previous Page
Next Page
.jpg)
-640x480.jpg)
Wishing you great climbing weather for the summit bid. I’m hoping that when I wake up in the morning (May 29) I’ll see your personal tracker shows you’re well on your way to the summit.
Take care Tom M and the whole Walter team.
With love
Jacquie
Posted by: Jacquie Byatt on 5/28/2019 at 9:03 pm
Let Dan Koster know that his family has been following your blog and we are excited for the summit bid! Glad you weathered the storm and are pushing on to Camp 17,200’!
Go Team Walter!
-Mark Koster
Posted by: Mark Koster on 5/28/2019 at 12:27 pm
View All Comments