Thursday, May 30, 2019 - 12:26 AM PT
Summit!
The weather was beautiful this morning with no clouds above us and no sign of wind. We got the stoves cranking again at 4:30 in order to beat the crowds (today was the busiest summit day of the season so far, as there was a backup of climbers that were delayed by last week's stormy weather. We estimate about 100 climbers went for the summit today.). We got rolling out of camp at 8:30 and walked into the frigid, shady slopes of the Audobon, which is a steep traverse for a thousand feet up to Denali Pass. We clipped about 40 snow pickets in a running belay to add security.
Around the corner from Denali Pass we stepped into the sun and began climbing south pass Zebra Rocks and the Arch Deacon's Tower into the Football Field. The last hurdle before the summit ridge was climbing up the strenuous Pig Hill up to the Kahiltna Horn. Then the narrow, corniced ridge brought us to the summit at 20,310'.
The climb is always challenging, but it was made more so due to cold 15-25 headwinds for most of the climb. We needed to wear goggles and face protection to keep from freezing our skin.
But we did it. And we're about to crawl into our sleeping bags at the 17,200' high camp for some well deserved sleep. Tomorrow we will start our descent.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Congrats Pieter! I enjoyed hearing about your trip on our airplane ride to Anchorage and am excited to see that your climb was a success!
Posted by: Mike Miller on 5/31/2019 at 10:09 pm
Huge congrats, Pieter, and to the rest of your team!!! We are in total awe and couldn’t be happier for you! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you’re back. Sending love and best wishes. xo, Marla, Mer & Kira
Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 8:47 PM PT
This morning seems like weeks ago. We’re currently settled into our new home at 14 thousand feet, and life is good. Weather cooperated for us all day long, and the team moved quite well. For some reason this camp always seems to have the best weather. A lot of storms that hit 11 and the lower Kahiltna don’t make it this high, and winds that ravage the summit elevations don’t quite make it this low. We’re currently sitting in the sun looking out at a sea of clouds that are certainly covering, and snowing on, our old home. One more reason that we’re happy to be up here. It’s always a hard day getting here, and we’re all ready for dinner and an early bedtime. Tomorrow we’ll walk 500 feet downhill to retrieve our cache, and we’ll spend the rest of the day chilling hard. Until then, the team sends their best to everyone back at home.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Watson decide to go on a camping trip. After dinner and a bottle of wine, they lay down for the night, and go to sleep.
Some hours later, Holmes awoke and nudged his faithful friend.
“Watson, look up at the sky and tell me what you see.”
Watson replied, “I see millions of stars.”
“What does that tell you?”
Watson pondered for a minute.
“Astronomically, it tells me that there are millions of galaxies and potentially billions of planets.”
“Astrologically, I observe that Saturn is in Leo.”
“Horologically, I deduce that the time is approximately a quarter past three.”
“Theologically, I can see that God is all powerful and that we are small and insignificant.”
“Meteorologically, I suspect that we will have a beautiful day tomorrow.”
“What does it tell you, Holmes?”
Holmes was silent for a minute, then spoke: “Watson, you idiot. Someone has stolen our tent!”
Posted by: skipper holmes on 5/30/2019 at 10:48 pm
Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 7:19 PM PT
Greetings,
We’re in! Our pilots nailed a short lived window this morning and the team is all currently on the SE Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. Despite numerous cloud layers abundant throughout the Range, our amazing K2 pilots made it happen! With a little bit of a late arrival, we’ve opted to hang tight here at Base Camp today, and travel during the cooler hours of the night and early morning tomorrow, and hopefully make camp across the way at 7800’ Camp tomorrow. We’re excited to be here in the Alaska Range, and we’re stoked to get the ball rolling tomorrow as we begin a grand climbing adventure.
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and Team
Wednesday, May 29, 2019 - 5:00 PM PT
Hey all this is the Denali Expedition with RMI Steve Gately. The team and I are on the summit! 100% of the team made it so everybody's up. Everybody's doing well. We had a wonderful morning- blue skies, warm weather. We picked up a little bit of wind towards the summit. We had to work for it at the end there. We're all here safe and sound. We'll give a shout via email to the blog when we are back safe and sound at [17K] Camp. That's all.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
RMI Guide Steve Gately calls in from the Denali summit!
Steve! I’m so proud and happy for you for making the summit! I’ll give you a call when you’re on the bottom so I can tell you about the light indoor rock climbing I’ve been doing. Can’t wait to hear all about it.
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 11:21 PM PT
Hello all!
Greetings from the climbing capital of Alaska...Talkeetna! Our RMI team arrived safely yesterday evening and has been putting in the work and the time to prep for the extraordinary climbing adventure that lies ahead. The team spent a long day today checking our climbing gear, organizing food, and assembling and packing our kitchen for the weeks ahead. It was a beautiful sunny day here in Talkeetna which certainly helped with our productivity and motivation as we look forward to a possible flight into the Range tomorrow morning. We spent the evening enjoying the last of our creature comforts and indulging ourselves on our favorite foods from Twister Creek in downtown Talkeetna. We’re optimistic for the weather tomorrow and we’ll keep everyone in the loop on our progress throughout our expedition.
RMI Guides Robby, Nick, Joe and your favorite Denali Team
Hey Steve glad you made it safe and sound. Wishing you safety and good weather! Cannot wait to hear about it when you get back
Posted by: Tom Keating on 5/31/2019 at 7:42 am
Stephen
Doing great so far
So happy all is going well
Love you
Please be careful , and don’t forget St Joseph
Love
Mom and Dad
To everyone
Your in our prayers
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:29 PM PT
We took advantage of calmer weather to carry a load up to 13,600 today. We got to the top of Squirrel Hill, and the clouds looked like they might spoil our day. As we approached Windy Corner the weather completely cleared up and left us with light winds and sunny skies. So that was nice. Everyone did really well today, and we’re hoping to move up to 14K tomorrow, weather permitting. We’re currently hanging out in our sun-warmed tents drying out our gear. We’ll do an early dinner, and head to bed soon. Gotta get that beauty rest.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:12 PM PT
Today dawned clear and calm and cold. I got out of the tent at the frigid hour of 4:30 am to start the stoves. I woke everyone else shortly thereafter to start packing up their sleeping bags and gearing up for our move to High Camp, we were rolling by 7:10. Clouds had moved in and by the time we topped out on the fixed lines a light breeze kept the temps cold. We made good time navigating the fixed ropes and the West Buttress Ridge all the way to 17,200'. Five hours and ten minutes after leaving 14 Camp we were in 17 Camp. But we had hours of work to do, digging and chipping flat tent platforms out of rock hard ice and wind eroded snow.
Now we're all moved in to our tents, we've filled water bottles, and we're making more water for dinner. We're hoping the weather forecast validates and tomorrow will let us have a stab at the summit. If not, we're set up with food and fuel to wait a handful of days until we get our chance. We'll keep you posted.
RMI Guide Mike Walter
Congratulations to everyone! Prayers to all for a safe descent.
Your followers in Columbus, Georgia :)
Posted by: Janette on 5/30/2019 at 5:48 am
It looks like you reached the summit yesterday at around 5:30pm? We have been closely following your progress through the Garmin updates from one of your team members. Can’t wait to read the update. Hope you are all doing well and enjoying the amazing achievement.
Suretha Swart
Tuesday, May 28, 2019 - 6:09 PM PT
We woke up early this morning. 5am to be exact. 14K Camp is full of eager climbers waiting, likely everybody else, for their shot at the summit. The problem with extended bad weather is that climbers stack up in the queue. Like a dam during spring runoff, eventually you have to open the flood gates to release the back up to prevent the dam from over flowing. Well, our theoretical opening of the flood gates manifests as a decent weather window for climbing. We braved the cold, got packed up, ate a quick breakfast and were on the move by 7:15am. Over two hours before the sun normally hits camp. About halfway up the fixed lines we started to receive a little filtered sun and fingers and toes began to finally thaw out. A quick glance back down the terrain we had just climbed confirmed our need for an early departure. The flood gates had opened. 50-75 people streamed out of camp in a solid single-file line. We felt pretty good about being so far ahead of the human onslaught. The West Buttress itself is easily the most aesthetic portion of the entire ascent. The buttress offers steep climbing, wild exposure and views of the Alaska Range and it's expansive blanket of tundra that unfolds to the East. The weather stayed quite pleasant for us as we ascended the ridge that would eventually lead us to our high camp at 17,000ft. Soon enough steep terrain and exposure led to the gentle slopes of the Upper Peters Glacier. We sauntered our way into camp. There is already a small village of erected tents hunkered down in a scoop of snow sculpted by the wind. We opted to travel a bit further and build camp where no one has yet. We've gotten quite efficient at the process and within a short time were all hunkered in warm sleeping bags as out of the elements. The weather at the moment is a bit cloudy with light snow showers and light winds. Not completely unpleasant but not perfect either. Tomorrow we will try and climb to the summit of Denali assuming that weather and conditions allow. The team is poised and ready, all we need now is to be allowed safe passage. We will wake up early again tomorrow morning, stick our heads out of the tent and hope we like what we see! Thanks for following along!
RMI Guide Steve Gately
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 6:08 PM PT
As expected, the weather did not cooperate for a carry today. So instead of moving uphill we spent the morning making and eating pancakes. We ate breakfast until it was lunch time, ate lunch, and then enjoyed a few hours of sun and clear skies. We shoveled some snow of course, got a little training in, discussed the state of the universe, and I believe that Kirk has been meditating on the meaning of life for much of the day. He is scheduled to give a lecture detailing his enlightenment at dinner. David ate bacon today for the first time in 10 years. He seemed to enjoy it. There is talk of a pull-up contest if the weather doesn’t improve tomorrow, we will see. Dustin is the top seeded contender, but I have no doubt there are some dark horses in our ranks. As we move towards dinner, the snow has returned. Our plan is to get an early-ish start tomorrow and carry to 13,500, but we will see what the weather gives us. Hopefully we wake to clear skies and calm winds tomorrow.
RMI Guide JM Gorum
“ “When you rise in the morning, give thanks for the light, for your life, for your strength. Give thanks for your food and for the joy of living. If you see no reason to give thanks, the fault lies in yourself.” -Tecumseh”- Kirk Ludwig
Posted by: Jillian Ludwig on 5/28/2019 at 3:36 pm
Sending all you guys clear weather thoughts and big hugs! Hope you’re all doing well! And as far as a pull up contest goes… my money is on JT. Also… give JT a big smooch on the cheek for me, JM! Happy climbing to all!
Monday, May 27, 2019 - 6:30 PM PT
Today the team awoke to slightly calmer weather, finally allowing everyone to venture out of their tents. Camp received a good bit of new snow, and the wind organized the snow into orderly piles, just not necessarily in the most convenient locations. After everyone soaked up some morning sun, the team returned to their tents to rest for our upcoming move. If the weather cooperates, we will be pushing to 17,000' Camp tomorrow hoping for good summit conditions the following day.
RMI Guide Steve Gately
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Congrats Pieter! I enjoyed hearing about your trip on our airplane ride to Anchorage and am excited to see that your climb was a success!
Posted by: Mike Miller on 5/31/2019 at 10:09 pm
Huge congrats, Pieter, and to the rest of your team!!! We are in total awe and couldn’t be happier for you! Can’t wait to hear all about it when you’re back. Sending love and best wishes. xo, Marla, Mer & Kira
Posted by: MARLA on 5/31/2019 at 11:38 am
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